The replacing of springs of the front of their motorcycle it's one of the most common procedures to improve vehicle dynamics, but not everyboby is familiar with the tools or the fear of combining a number of other troubles that we often pushes waive or worse we make more rich the mechanic on duty. In fact, the procedure does not require special skills, nor expertise, to which there is certainly need are the right tools, patience and a lot of attention.

Here, I tried to explain the process of replacing the standard springs, mounted on a 2001 T955 Speed Triple, with the progressive springs White Power (slightly shorter and with an upward not symmetrical spiral, this means that the spring reacts differently when called in different ways, that it's reacting in a progressive manner, the more powerful is the force, plus active it is the resistance of the spring). Then we try to do some clearness.

First it is necessary, essential, to set the bike on the front stand in the steering tube, even better if you use the rear stand, so the bike will remain stable in safety, and it will not cause problems in every phase of the attendance.
In addition, when taken apart the front tire, the fork will be completely free, ready for action.

Once the bike is safely placed, proceed with the dismantling of the front wheel, remove the fender, brake calipers, this to avoid unnecessary clutter and be able to work easily.
In particular, the brake calipers,I advice to fix them at the radiator with plastic tape or a plastic band, this is to avoid damaging the braided tube or that it hang down here and the. The passing pin fastening front tire is fixed both by four screws (two per stem) in the bottom of the stem, either by a hex nut that stops the pin from one side.

Putting aside the wheel, proceed with the removal of stems fork.
It 'a pretty easy, just unscrew the three screws to the side of the plates that hold together the front (one on upper, two on the bottom).

From this moment forget your bike and concentrate only on the stems.
Remove the plastic caps under the stems and proceed unscrewing the oil purging screw with an Allen key
To try not soiled all over the floor is good to drain the oil for about ten minutes in a bucket, though, not everything it will flow out, because the pumping inside it's full of oil, and it must be compressed and then decompressed (like a pump to inflate a balloon) to make escape all the oil.

Unscrewing the caps on top of the fork legs (those on which you make adjustments of the spring preload and decompression) you will find yourself in front of the entire front suspension system of your bike. Do not worry, the hard work is done.
Take particular attention at get unthreaded the block from its sheath: first of all to prevent damage, second reason so that you may not forget to put the pieces in the right order. The block is set by the top cap and the purge of oil, lives that we had already removed to leave part of the oil out. Then the block at this point is free.
In fact, you are in front of a idraulic block slightly differently, or even including a spacer just above the spring, a metal tube is interposed between the spring and tightening the cap top. In the picture is missing because I have installed progressive longer springs (WP), so in this case, the spacer must be removed.

A word of advice, the stems capped with adhesive tape to coach, that of paper, for instance, this will prevent dirt and the top can come in sheaths.

Now proceed to remove the top cap, which is very easy to make with two fork keys, all with great care and attention. In this way, the springs can be removed, from the pumping.
Grasp the pumping like a bicycle pump and pump two or three times. All residual oil will be expelled permanently, leaving the pumping completely empty.

At this point you insert the pumping in the rod. Fasten with the screw at the bottom and proceed to fill it with oil. In particular for the Triumph Speed Triple 2001, the amount is as follows:

589 cc of oil per stem.

If you prefer, left 76 mm between the oil and the top of the stem. Enter the exact amount is more easy and convenient, but if you want to perform a measurement of the distance is good to know that:

1) the stem must be fully compressed, then the sliding inward within the fixed part;

2) the pumping must be compressed (all down), should be performed two or three pump strokes and then take the measure;

You have to insert oil, replace the springs.If the springs are longer, do not worry, you have to remove the metal spacer,otherwise put the block exactly as it was.

So, proceeding from the bottom up: loose with the most close up, (only in case of no suspensions Up Side Down), washer, spacer, washer, washer concave.

Rearranging the pumping above the cap, tighten firmly and finally close the stem.

At this point you're done! Proceed to reassemble becoming in reverse doing much attention and taking care of details.

GOOD JOB TO ALL!