How to surf a wave

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By roman3333

Me riding a wave up at Sunset. (surf spot in LA)
Me riding a wave up at Sunset. (surf spot in LA)

Surfing in 5 Easy Steps

Surfing a wave can be a challenging feat to accomplish. I hope that by the end of this read, you will have a little understanding of how to ride the wave. Surfing is one of the most enjoyable experiences I've ever had, and hopefully readers will be able to experience the same thing for themselves.

Step One: Stretch

Stretch out on dry land. Cramping in the ocean is dangerous. Now one wants to be in the water with a cramp thats why its important to stretch.

Step Two: Get Outside

Enter into the ocean and start paddling away from the beach as fast as you can. The goal is to get past the crashing waves as quickly as possible. The area past the crashing waves is known as "the outside." This is the area where you will catch waves. The area where all of the whitewater runs toward the beach is called "the inside" exactly where you don't want to be if you’re going to catch a wave.

*For beginners it is a good idea to catch whitewash and ride it up to the shore. This will help the beginner get a feeling for the board.

Step 3: Catching the wave

So you’re sitting outside the break, watching the beach, taking in the sun and suddenly you see a wave coming for you. Don't panic, it won’t hurt that bad... Now you must paddle your board fast enough to catch the wave. The wave will catch up to you and if you’re not going fast enough or if you’re not positioned correctly on your board, it will pass you up. Paddle as hard as you can when the wave gets close enough to you and don't stop paddling once it picks you up. Once you’re riding the wave you will feel the power underneath you and you will be swept underneath it.

*This is the hardest part of surfing. It can also be very frustrating when wave after wave passes you bye. However, the only way to get good at this is to spend time surfing. Your skills at catching a wave will improve as time goes on. Do not get discouraged. Paddle Hard!!!

Step 4: The Pop-up

So you must be feeling pretty good, you’re on the wave moving on your stomach. It’s time to pop-up! Place your hands, palm face down at the sides of your board. Now, in one swift motion, with an explosive force, push yourself up and glide your feet underneath your body so you'll be standing on your board making sure to keep your knees bent and hands out at either side to maintain balance.

Step 5: The turn

Now it’s time to turn the board. The wave looks like its breaking right, so it is a right wave. Turn your head in the direction you want to maneuver. Now put pressure on your right foot and in shift your bodyweight to the side you’re turning. If all goes as planned (you'll get the hang of it) you should be riding the wave!

*There is much more to surfing than I have described in the above How to guide. Please look for more sources on surfing etiquette and please get lessons before you go; even if it’s just a surfer friend yelling at you from a few feet away. Remember, be safe and have fun!

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Me riding a really small wave. Maybe It will shed some insight on catching a wave. Be sure to let me know!

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Iðunn profile image

Iðunn  says:
2 years ago

surfing is fascinating to me. I hope you continue to hub to the sport.

roman3333 profile image

roman3333  says:
2 years ago

I always wondered about surf in Bermuda...Anyway, thanks for the comment, I love extreme sports too! Snorkeling must have been amazing in Bermuda.

Amanda Zielinski  says:
2 years ago

We at Theorem Capital are very proud of your surfing prowess.

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