Attracting Beneficial Insects to Your Garden---This week you will learn how to attract beneficial insects to your garden. There are a variety of common plants and flowers that attract beneficial insects. Beneficial insects are not only attracted to plants which are infected with their insect prey, but they also tend to be selective about the plants on which they lay their eggs. Many beneficial insects also spend part of their lives surviving on the nectar and pollen of their favorite plants. Ideally, your garden plants will provide food, shelter and a nursery for beneficial insects. Some of these plants may already be in your garden.

Caterpillars, leafhoppers, beetles, moths and grubs are attacked by tiny parasitic wasps, because they are so tiny themselves, parasitic wasps prefer tiny flowers when they want a drink of sweet nectar. Parasitic wasps will frequent a garden that features some yarrow, dill, parsley, Queen Ann's lace or tansy. These umbrella-shaped flowers are very attractive to a number of beneficial insects.

Green lacewings and ladybugs will also appreciate the same umbrella-shaped flowers. They also like cosmos, prairie sunflower and even dandelions and alfalfa. Lacewings prefer to lay their eggs in shady areas that are protected from the weather. They'll be happy to find some of their favorite plants in a quiet, protected corner of the garden.

Various herbs are attractive to some beneficial insects. Adding some herbs here and there amongst your flowers or vegetables will surely lure some beneficial insects to work in your garden. Lemon balm, pennyroyal, spearmint and parsley will attract hoverflies, parasitic wasps and tachinid flies. Tachinid flies look like hairy house flies and they lay their eggs on caterpillars which can do a lot of damage in a garden. Tachinid fly larvae will destroy corn earworms, cabbage worms, armyworms and other fly larvae.

Providing the proper plants for food and shelter is just one step toward attracting beneficial insects to your garden. The most important thing to do to encourage beneficial insects in your garden is to stop using chemical pesticides. Chemical pesticides are not selective and will kill both harmful and beneficial insects. Many organic insecticides are selective and when used properly, will not harm the beneficial insects.

Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) is a perennial wildflower native to the eastern US. Butterfly weed is commonly found in dry open fields, its range extending from New England south to Florida and across to the western states including California, but not the Great plains states or Pacific Northwest. Butterfly weed is hardy between USDA plant zones 4 and 10 and is a member of the milkweed plant family (Asclepiadaceae). Unlike most milkweeds, it has alternate leaves and does not have milky sap.

Blooming from early to late summer, the bright orange flower clusters are large and very showy, and as the name implies attract butterflies. Butterfly weed grows to a height of 12 to 24 inches tall. The fruit is a pod filled with tiny seeds attached to white tufts that disperse via the wind. Butterfly weed prefers well-drained sandy soils and is an excellent choice for butterfly gardens, cutting gardens, in perennial borders or at the edges of fields. It can be grown from seed or transplanted in autumn.

Also known as pleurisy root, Native Americans chewed on the root of the butterfly weed, which was used as a remedy for pleurisy, a lung ailment. Apparently the pod can be eaten if it is boiled twice in fresh water, although I’ve never tried it. Butterfly weed is listed as possibly extirpated in Maine, endangered in New Hampshire, threatened in Vermont, of special concern in Rhode Island, and exploitably vulnerable in New York.

Natural Ways to Keep Bugs Away!---Are swarming mosquitoes threatening to ruin your cookout this weekend? Don't fret. There are steps that you can take to avoid getting bit by these bloodthirsty pests.

Step 1 – Ensure That Your Yard is Not a Breeding Ground for Mosquitoes. Mosquitoes require stagnant water to breed. Thus,

* Make sure that there are no buckets or empty planters left where they could collect stagnant water.

* Empty any standing water, and store empty containers upside down.

* Check the gutter on the house for leaves or other debris blocking rainwater from flowing freely.

* Change the water in the birdbath weekly.

* If you have a pond or water garden, install a pump, waterfall or fountain to keep the water flowing.

* Fill in any puddles or low spots in the lawn with soil or rock.

* Check the area just beneath all downspouts to ensure there is no standing water.

Step 2 – Fighting Off Mosquitoes Naturally

* Install a bat house near your outdoor living spaces. Bats dine on mosquitoes in the evening and are a beauty to behold in flight.

* Erect bird feeders in your yard to attract wild birds, which feast on mosquitoes. Stock the water garden or pond with goldfish or other mosquito larvae eating fish.

* Use yellow bug lights outside on the patio, porch, or deck.

* Light citronella candles or mosquito coils when using outdoor seating areas. There are safe propane and butane operated mosquito traps and devices that can be used when entertaining outdoors.

* Install ceiling fans on your covered porch or balcony and sit beneath them when outdoors at night to discourage mosquitoes from landing on you and your guests.

* Use an oscillating fan in outdoor living spaces in the evenings.

* Wear light colored clothing with thin, long sleeves, long pants, and socks when working in the garden just before dark.

* Spray an herbal-based mosquito repellent on top of your clothing. Most herbal-based repellents contain plant-based oils such as citronella, cedar, eucalyptus, lemongrass, peppermint, basil, geranium and feverfew, which are mosquito deterrents. These are safe for use on children, who are highly susceptible to mosquito bites when running and playing outdoors at night.

* Taking garlic or brewers yeast supplements is said to deter insect bites.

Hungry? Think Blue!---On May 8, 1999, the United States Department of Agriculture proclaimed July National Blueberry Month. Here’s a little look at the history – and benefits – of these sweet summertime treats.

The blueberry is a native North American plant grown in 35 states. Today, the United States produces more than 90 percent of all of the blueberries in the world. Cherished by both Native Americans and early European settlers alike, it has long been used in both food and medicines. In addition to being delicious and refreshing picked right off the bush, blueberries are popular in soups, stews, and lots of other foods.

But did you know that without the early 20th century innovations of Elizabeth Coleman White and Dr. Frederick Coville, you wouldn’t be able to buy fresh blueberries in the grocery story today? White and Coville were the first people to domesticate the wild highbush blueberry, directly contributing to the creation of the cultivated blueberry industry. By selecting desirable plants from the wild forests of the Northeast United States, the pair developed a hardy variety of blueberries that would be easy for commercial farmers to grow. Their breeding work is directly responsible for the cultivation of the plump, juicy, sweet, and easy to pick cultivated blueberry we enjoy today.

Eat Blueberries for Better Health:

Blueberries are rich in antioxidants, which are believed to help protect the body against the damaging effects of free radicals and many of the chronic diseases that come with aging. According to the USDA Human Nutrition Research Center on Aging, blueberries provide more antioxidants than almost any other fresh fruit or vegetable.

Native Americans used leaves from the blueberry bush to make a blood purifier that was believed to be good for the kidneys, blueberry tea was used to help relax women during childbirth, and blueberry juice was offered to help combat coughs.

Modern medicine has also identified some possible health benefits of blueberries. Researchers at the Rutgers Blueberry and Cranberry Research Center in Chatsworth, N.J. found that blueberries can help prevent urinary tract infections in much the same way cranberries do. And that they may also help to stave off macular degeneration.

Now Showing: The Summer Triangle---Instead of turning on the TV tonight, why not turn to the eastern sky about two hours after sundown and see if you can spot the famous “Summer Triangle.”

At this time of year is the best time to see the famous "Summer Triangle.” You can't miss it because the triangle is composed of three of the brightest stars in the sky, each of which is the brightest star in its own constellation.

The brightest is the bluish-white star Vega, in Lyra the Lyre. Next in brightness is yellow-white Altair in Aquila, the Eagle. Finally there is white Deneb, in Cygnus, the Swan.

From our viewpoint, Vega appears twice as bright as Altair and more than three times brighter than Deneb. But sometimes things are not always what they seem. Astronomers know, for instance, that Vega clearly is more luminous compared to Altair, because it’s situated at a greater distance from us. Altair is 17 light years away, while Vega is 25. The light you see from Vega tonight started on its journey to Earth in 1983.

Vega actually pales in comparison with Deneb, one of the greatest supergiant stars known. Deneb’s distance measures 1,467 light years from Earth, with a luminosity computed to be more than 80,000 times that of our Sun. But because its light takes nearly 15 centuries to reach us, Deneb merely appears as a fairly conspicuous but by no means particularly notable star.

Check it out. Tonight when the sky is dark, see if you can spot this triangle.

Propagating Woody Plants from Softwood Cuttings---Now is a good time to start new trees and shrubs by taking cuttings from new spring growth. Though these softwood cuttings root relatively easily, they are susceptible to wilting and require close attention to watering and relative humidity.

It is best if cuttings are taken after a rain or several hours after the plant has been well watered to ensure the cuttings remain turgid. Stems should be mature enough that they snap rather than bend when placed under pressure. Cuttings should be about 6 inches long with cuts made at an angle just below a node, the area where a leaf joins the stem. The angle provides a larger cut surface and more area for the cutting to callus and root.

Strip off the lower leaves and place the cutting in a moist rooting medium after it has been dipped in rooting powder. Several rooting media are suitable: sand with peat moss, sand with vermiculite, perlite with peat moss, and perlite with vermiculite. A suitable medium should provide good moisture-holding capacity and be open enough to provide good aeration to the roots. Though some plants can be rooted directly in water, roots formed in water do not adapt well to soil.

Rooting containers vary. Some gardeners prefer flats because the number of cuttings each will hold. Others prefer small, individual pots for each cutting so cuttings can be removed from the propagation environment as they root.

Keep relative humidity high by enclosing the container or containers in a plastic bag. Use wooden dowels or similar objects to keep the plastic off the top of the cuttings. Place the rooting container in bright, indirect light and check often for watering needs. When roots are about 1 inch long, cuttings can be removed from the propagation chamber and potted.

Climbing Hydrangea Takes Hydrangeas to Greater Heights---Three species of hydrangea commonly grace our landscapes- smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens; e.g. ‘Annabelle’), panicle hydrangea (H. paniculata; e.g. ‘PeeGee’, ‘Tartiva’, and ‘Unique’), and bigleaf hydrangea (H. macrophylla; e.g. ‘Endless Summer’). Each species has its own unique growth pattern, and there is variability among cultivars for especially size and structure of the inflorescence (flower clusters) and color of the large, showy, infertile florets. One spectacular hydrangea that has captured the imagination of many gardeners over the years is climbing hydrangea (H. anomala subspecies petiolaris). Just some understanding of its basic requirements will allow most people to successfully grow this impressive species.

Climbing hydrangea rivals the best of the ornamental vines for beauty. It is native to China and Japan, relatively pest free, and is reliably hardy to zone 4. The attractive, glossy foliage is an attractive backdrop for the large, lace cap, inflorescence, typically a foot or more in diameter. Even when not in flower, the foliage of climbing hydrangea is very ornamental and makes the plant worth growing. The flower buds are set the previous growing season and typically open in late May into June. Climbing hydrangea is one of the earliest flowering hydrangeas in our area. Interest continues after the fertile florets are spent as the large white sterile florets, borne around the perimeter of the inflorescence, persist throughout the summer.

The large main stems of climbing hydrangea have a strong tendency to grow vertically and have modified roots that adhere tenaciously to buildings or tree trunks. Shorter secondary stems growing from the main stems produce the flowers. These stems often lack the modified roots for support. The plant eventually grows into to dense, well-foliated vine capable of covering structures and reaching heights of 20 feet or more. Besides the very attractive foliage and flowers in spring and summer, climbing hydrangea also provides great fall and winter interest. After the leaves drop, the beautiful cinnamon-colored, peeling bark and network of coarse stems are exposed.

Although climbing hydrangea has been routinely sold for decades, there are relatively few mature, flowering specimens that can be found. The key to success with climbing hydrangea is providing it with a suitable site and patience. Plant climbing hydrangea in full sun to partial shade and soil that is moist, rich, and well-drained. Avoid digging around the plant and disturbing the root system, as this can significantly stunt growth. It is slow to establish and may take several years before it begins to reliably bloom. Frequently, impatient gardeners give up and replace it before it has a chance to become established. Once established, it can grow a few feet or more in a season and be covered with hundreds of large, attractive inflorescences. A little planning, appropriate placement, and patience are the key factors required to be successful with this impressive, relatively easy to grow climber.

Tree of the week-Silver Linden (Tilia tomentosa). Lindens are a mainstay in commercial, community, and home landscapes. One that is spectacular right now is the silver linden with its shimmering foliage. The silver linden is a medium to large shade tree that does quite well in street tree sites that can accommodate its size. Dark green upper leaves and silvery lower leaf surfaces shimmer attractively in the wind. The 'Sterling' cultivar has magnificent overall structure with broad pyramidal crown.

Perennial of the week-coneflower (Echinacea purpurea). The world of coneflowers has exploded exponentially in recent years, making it difficult for tis gardener to select the best plant for the garden! Recent introductions have a variety of features including double-flowered, fragrance and various heights. Coneflowers begin to bloom now and last throughout July and into August. Frequent deadheading prolongs blooms. These plants adapt to varying environmental conditions and tolerate heat and dry soils. Gardeners can leave the seed heads on the plant toward the end of the season for the goldfinches. However, beware that the species coneflower and other varieties may spread aggressively. Some of the new varieties include: 'Big Sky' series (maroon and yellow flowers); 'After Midnight' (purplish); 'Hope' (large center); 'Meadowbrite' series (orange and yellow); and many more. Don't forget those that have been around awhile as well, such as the 1998 Perennial Plant of the Year 'Magnus' (purple, 36-40" tall) and 'Kim's Knee High' (shorter with pink flowers).

The cats meow---HICKORY TUSSOCK MOTH (Lophocampa caryae) and YELLOWNECKED CATERPILLARS (Datana ministra) are on the prowl. Early instar hickory tussock moth caterpillars feed in groups as skeletonizers on the underside of leaves. They have now reached the stage where the caterpillars disperse and feed singly as general defoliators. The caterpillars are covered with tufts of white hairs with long tufts of black hairs on each side behind the head and two more on opposite sides toward the tip of the abdomen. A series of short black tufts may be seen in the center of each abdominal segment. The caterpillars may be found on a wide variety of deciduous trees; however, they prefer hickory and oak.

Yellownecked caterpillars feed in colonies throughout their development. First instars feed as leaf skeletonizers and later instars consume entire leaves. The colonies typically focus their attention on defoliating one branch before moving to another. Small trees with multiple colonies can be rapidly defoliated. The caterpillars have black heads and a bright orange "neck" (prothorax) that gives them their common name; however, the caterpillars pass through different "color phases" during their development.

First instar caterpillars are copper-colored with no distinct lines. Second instars have distinct alternating longitudinal yellow and orangish-red lines. Caterpillars in the final instar stage have alternating longitudinal black and yellow lines. Although all instars are hairy, the hairs are most evident during the last instar stage. The various color motifs allow colonies to blend with the surrounding foliage of their hosts. The caterpillars feed on a wide variety of trees and shrubs including: crabapples and other ornamental fruit trees; oak; maple; elm; beech; linden; honey locust; azalea; and boxwood.

Yellownecked caterpillars have two and occasionally three generations per season. Early instar caterpillars are susceptible to the biological insecticide, Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) (e.g., Dipel, Thuricide, or Caterpillar Attack). More traditional insecticides are needed to control later instars. A more self fulfilling control method is to knock the caterpillar colonies to the ground and perform the "caterpillar dance." Thus far, no populations have developed resistance to this control method.

Some blueberry blues---a few gardeners growing blueberry are singing the blues over two blueberry insects, namely, the CRANBERRY FRUITWORM (Acrobasis vaccinii) and the BLUEBERRY MAGGOT (Rhagoletis mendax). Both of these insects cause damage to blueberry fruit, but in noticeably different ways. These differences will help identify the true culprit responsible for putting the blues into blueberry picking. Control of these pests is achieved by timing applications of insecticides to prevent the larvae from entering the fruit.

The cranberry fruitworm is a serious pest of blueberries in the Eastern United States. More often than not, the early ripening blueberry varieties are typically most affected. This insect overwinters in the soil as a full grown larva. The larvae pupate in the spring and the adult moths begin to emerge after blueberries bloom and set fruit. The adults are small moths with dark grayish-brown wings, and they fly at night. The female deposits eggs on the berries, almost always on or inside the calyx cup (blossom end) of unripe fruit. The eggs hatch in about five days and the young larvae travel to the stem end of the fruit where they enter, and feed on the berry flesh. The larva moves within a fruit cluster, traveling from one berry to another. One larva may feed on up to eight berries before it completes its development. The fruitworm larva feeds entirely on the inner flesh of developing and ripening berries. These damaged berries are usually webbed together, covered with brown sawdust-like excrement (frass), and the tunnels in the berries are also filled with frass where the cranberry fruitworm ate its way through. There is one generation per year.

The blueberry maggot, which is an immature fly, overwinters as a pupa in the soil. Adults emerge over a period of time from about mid-June through mid-August. Female flies begin laying eggs about 10 days after their emergence. The female will lay only one egg per berry, under the skin, just as the fruit begins to turn blue and ripen. The egg hatches in about one week and the maggot feeds for about three weeks inside the ripening fruit. As the maggot tunnels throughout the berry, the fruit flesh liquefies as it matures. Infested fruits are soft, sometimes shriveled and may have a depression or hole where the egg was inserted. Small larvae are colorless making their detection almost impossible. Full-grown larvae are about 1/4" - 5/16" long, glossy white or yellowish in color, legless, with bodies tapering towards the head end. There is one generation per year.

Rose black spot---Rose black spot disease, caused by the fungus Diplocarpon rosae, is quite common this year, predictably so given the many days of rainy weather this growing season. Infections by the pathogen generally occur when leaves are wet for seven hours or longer, and of course these conditions have been common this spring, and now into early summer. Many different types of roses are affected, even those, such as Knockout roses, that sail through in many cases.

Why do roses sometime seem to be resistant and sometimes not? It is because disease pressure may vary from one location to another in addition to the possibility that new types of the pathogen may evolve and overcome resistance in time. Rose types with generally adequate resistance may still develop symptoms under high disease pressure, but they may survive black spot without much damage to the plant. This is one of those high disease pressure years, with multiple infection periods due to numerous periods of leaf wetness exceeding seven consecutive hours. Clean up black-spot infested leaf, cane, and flower debris; improve foliar drying conditions; use protective fungicide spray programs - and do a reverse rain dance though beware what you wish for!.

A rotten deal for strawberries---With the excessive rains, gardeners growing strawberries are battling to hold off the disease called LEATHER ROT, which is caused by the fungal pathogen Phytophthora cactorum. This fungus primarily infects the fruit and can infect berries at any stage of development, with the infection of green fruit being most common. Diseased areas on green fruit may be dark brown or remain green, but outlined by a brown margin. As the rot continues to spread, the entire berry becomes brown, appears leather-like, and retains a rough texture.

On fully ripened berries, the infection may be difficult to detect. The infection often results in a slight color change, ranging from brown to dark purple and the infected ripe fruit are usually softer to the touch than healthy fruit. However, ripened fruit that are infected by the fungus have a very distinct unpleasant aroma and bitter taste and aroma. In the later stages of decay, mature fruits also become tough, leathery, and sometimes a white mold forms on the fruit surface. As infected fruits dry up, they become stiff, shriveled, mummified berries.

Leather rot is most often found on berries with direct soil contact and is associated with poorly drained areas, like puddles, where there is always standing water. Control of this fungal disease begins with good cultural practices, such as avoiding areas that drain poorly or become flooded periodically with heavy downpours. These poorly drained sites are ideal for development of leather rot. Maintain rows or separation of matted-row plantings to promote faster drying of foliage and fruit. Using a mulch of straw or other materials, to reduce the chance for fruit to touch the bare soil, is very beneficial in controlling leather rot.

Finally, fungicides can be beneficial for controlling leather rot in commercial plantings; however, they are not generally recommended for use in backyard fruit plantings. Instead, homeowners are encouraged to use good cultural practices to control leather rot on strawberries.

Garden To Do List July---I garden in zone 6. Spring usually starts in March and fall extends through November. The summers are long and hot. I write these tips with the idea that they are applicable to all zones during a general period of time. However, given microclimates and weather extremes timing can vary. Observe the conditions in your garden and apply them accordingly.

The dog days of summer are upon us, which means plenty of hot weather. Between now and mid August everything slows down in the garden so we can start spending less time doing and more time enjoying. But for those who need to keep busy, there are always a few things you can do to keep your garden looking beautiful. Whenever it’s hot, try to schedule these tasks for morning or early afternoon.

* If the weather turns dry, avoid fertilizing your plants. It will further stress your plants to put energy into new growth during periods of drought.

* Protect your emerging corn crop from critters by placing a paper bag over each ear. Secure the bag with a rubber band. Do this just as the corn begins to mature. Remove the bag once the corn is ripe.

* Raise the blade on your lawn mower. The tall grass will keep the roots cool and conserve moisture – a must during the hot, dry weather typical of July.

* Order Colchicum autumnale bulbs for planting in August and September. Also known as autumn crocus, these petite pale pink to lavender blooms will appear in fall. Read more.

* If you’ve been pinching back your garden mums to encourage a more compact shape, it’s time to stop and allow them to set flower buds.

* Now is a good time to make rose cuttings. Choose stems that are just under the diameter of a pencil. Make your cut at an angle just above a leaf node. Be sure the cutting is at least 4 to 5 inches long and has a couple sets of leaves. Read more.

* Tomato horn worms are large with green and white stripes and a red “horn” near the end. Hand picking is the best method of control. However, if you see one covered in tiny, upright eggs leave it be. These are cocoons of the braconid wasp, a predator of the tomato horn worm.

* Some potted plants may need daily watering. Small pots, hanging baskets and window boxes in sunny locations may even need to be watered twice a day. If the top few inches of the soil are dry or the stems are wilting, it’s time to water.

* It’s time to start planning for your fall vegetable garden. For plants grown from seed, make sure they have enough time to mature before the first autumn freeze. Check the back of the seed packet to find the number of days until harvest to determine when you should plant. Read more.

* Keep those weeds pulled - especially those that spread by reseeding. If you can get rid of them before they go to seed you’ll have less work next year.

* Morning glories don't like soil that's too rich. In fact, if it's too rich they will produce lots of vine and not many flowers, so be easy on the fertilizer.

* As gourds begin to form use a nail to scratch a pattern into the shell. The pattern will expand as the gourd matures.

* Provide a source of clean water to attract birds to your garden. Bird baths should be shallow with a rough surface for the birds to stand on. Place the bath at least 4 to 5 feet away from feeders to prevent droppings and seed debris from contaminating the water.

* Use an old phone book as a flower press to preserve late summer blossoms. Choose flowers with flat or small centers so they will compress easily. Arrange the flowers on a piece of cardboard and hold them in place with a little clear tape. Label each one and write something about where it was growing, put it in the phone book and add a weight on top. Check after a couple of days. Once dried, the flowers can be glued onto cards to make pictures, or to embellish photos and letters.