In Italy, the appreciation of the olive tree goes back to Roman times. It was holy, a symbol of peace and fertility. Olive oil was used as an ointment, as a source of light, as medicine and as a costly trading commodity. With an appreciation greater than that of any other nation, Italians have bestowed a halo, if only a purely culinary one, upon their olive oil.

Modern science has taught the Italians that:

• Olive oil is not just easy to digest, but that it also has a general positive effect on the stomach and digestive system.
• The oil contains 80% of simple unsaturated fatty acids, which exceeds that of any other animal or vegetable oil. It can reduce the risk of heart and circulatory disease.
• Due to the high percentage of antioxidant agents, olive oil can be heated without producing substances which may damage your health. This is not the case with animal and vegetable fats.
• Out of all the usual household fats, olive oil is by far the healthiest for the body.

Italy's olive plantations cover over 1.4 million hectares. Italy are the second biggest olive oil producer in the world, with Spain in first place with plantations of over 2.4 million.

Almost three quarters of Italy's olive plantations are situated in higher, hilly regions, where the yields are less, but the quality much higher. The best time to start the olive harvest is November, when the small green fruits start to turn a violet shade. This is when the olives are at their most aromatic, having acquired a full flavour and a good nutritional balance.

Harvesting fully ripened black olives into the early spring results in harmonious, but less aromatic oils which are much lighter in character.

Olives for top quality oils are picked by hand. A good olive picker can manage to pick up to 88 pounds (40kg) in one day, which equate to around 20,000 olives depending on their size. In a good year, this number could produce up to 8 quarts of oil.

For other high quality oils, the olives are knocked from the trees with sticks, and are caught in nets which mimimises damage to the fruit. Much like when making white wine, it is important to lose as little time as possible between picking the olives and having them pressed.

The production of olives has long been industrially mastered. In Europe, Italy is generally the leader in the field of agricultural technology and also in Elaio technology, the technical term for oil extraction. However, olives are still often ground to a pulp by granite millstones in a pan grinder, though the presses and centrifuges are state of the art technology.

Most qualities of olive oil are filtered, though connoisseurs love the unfiltered and slightly cloudy varieties.

Olio d'oliva extra vergine / Extra virgin olive oil

The best quality of olive oil, from the first pressing.

Olio d'oliva vergine / Virgin olive oil

Oil of the second and third pressing, graded fine and medium fine. This oil is above average quality.

Olio d'oliva / Olive oil (also known as Pure olive oil)

A mixture of native and refined oil.

Olio di sansa d'oliva / Olive pomace oil

The main ingredient in this oil is pomace oil, extracted using solvents from the pulp remaining after pressing.

Native olive oils have to undergo tasting tests. Cold pressed oils of the first pressing are of particulary high quality and should therefore only be used in the preparation of cold dishes. For cooking, a simple native oil is all that is required. Today, the mark of origin is often indicated on the bottles of olive oil, showing that the plantations and methods used for the oil are submitted to regular controls. In general, different olive growing areas are assigned to Northern, Central or Southern Italy.

• In the North, the Ligurian Riviera is well known for the Taggiasco type of olive, producing very light, fine, thin oils with a delicate almond flavour. The more southern areas on Lake Garda, part of Veneto, also produce very delicate oils. In Lombardy, stronger fruitier oils which are greener in colour are pressed from Casaliva, Leccino and Moraiolo olives. They often taste of herbs.
• In Central Italy, namely in Tuscany, Emilia Romagna, Umbria, Le Marche and Lazio, a large variety of olives can be found. Frantoio, Leccino and Moraiolo olives are most common in the Tuscany and Umbria areas of origin. The oils often have a spicy, herby and nutty aroma, and occasionally a peppery bite of varying degrees of intensity. These are all factors of the specific growing conditions such as soil, climate, humidity and altitude.
• In the South, which is the main provider of Italy's olive oil, each region has it's own main olive types. A few of these are: Gentile di Chieti in the Abruzzi, Cima del bitonto in Apulia, Ottobractica in Calabria, Mocellara in Sicily or Palma in Sardinia. The spectrum is extremely broad, but the oils are mostly all golden yellow and strong in character, with a well developed olive aroma. They have a fruity taste and often a nutty aftertaste.

The large differences in oil bouquet and flavour have helped to initiate a distinctive gastronomical culture in Italy. Olive oil is used a a seasoning and trickled over prepared food. As with wine, an attempt is made to harmonise type of oil and dish being served. In good Italian restaurants, and oil menu or oil trolley is provided, from which the diner can either select a suitable oil themselves, or ask the waiter for advice.

Olive oil is sensitive to light, heat, air and moisture. It should be stored in air tight bottles in a cool, dry and dark place. In these conditions, it will keep for one and a half years.

In Italy, salad is made from raw or cooked vegetables. One or several kinds of vegetable can be used, and is served in a dressing made from salt, pepper, olive oil and a good wine vinegar or lemon juice.

The vegetable selection is determined by the seasons:

Spring

Asparagus with green beans or boiled courgette (zucchini) with potato cubes are favourite combinations.

Summer

Green lettuce is predominant in the summer and is decorated with strips of pepper, fennel, tomatoes, cucumbers, grated carrots and more.

Salad variants also include meat and fish; but these are not strictly an insalata as a side or vegetable dish, they are meals in their own right which are called antipasti.

In Italy, salads are nearly always dressed at the table and according to individual tastes. Ready made bottled salad dressings are not popular.