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Kayserberg on the Alsace wine route

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By James Mark

Bridge on the River Weiss

A peep through the keyhole.

Introducing one of the gems of Alsace

This peep through the keyhole, taken from one of the bridges over the River Weiss, should whet your appetite for a picturesque stroll round this delightful Alsace town. For illuminated winter photographs, follow the link below to the must-see French site, Alsace en photos.

Kayserberg, situated between the enticing Vosges mountains to the west and the Rhine to the east, lies on the popular eastern France wine route, not far from Colmar and Strasbourg.

The town was spared the ravages of the First World War during which it served as a rear base for German troops fighting in the Vosges. December 1944, however, saw Kayserberg badly damaged in the WWII battle for liberation. Rapid but sensitive post-war reconstruction restored much of the town's character and guaranteed its reputation as one of the gems, if not the gem of Alsace.

Judging by the accents we heard, the town is more visited by Americans than by Brits, but a day's outing is hardly a reliable guide. With Bâle-Mulhouse airport close by, the region is easily accessible by air from the UK, and is only a day's drive from the south of England (600kms from Calais, of which 500 on motorways).


Ruin and restoration

The castle above and typically colourful houses below.
The castle above and typically colourful houses below.

First impressions

This view from the carpark certainly encourages further exploration. The prettily-painted houses are typical of the region and distinguish Alsace from much of the rest of France, where dwellings often appear less well cared-for. At least that used to be the case, but DIY (bricolage) has taken off in recent years.

The castle was constructed between 13th and 16th centuries and is a typical garrison-fortress with strategic views across the valley. For views of the town from the castle itself, paste in this link to your browser.

http://kastel.elsass.free.fr/chateaux/kaysersberg.htm

Views along the Weiss

Upstream from the 'keyhole' bridge.
Upstream from the 'keyhole' bridge.
Looking slightly further downstream.
Looking slightly further downstream.

What's in a name?

The two views above show the Weiss not living up to its name, weiss being German for white. The swollen river in these photographs owes its colour to the preceding night's rainfall.

While we are talking names, a smattering of German will tell you that Kayserberg means Emperor's Hill, though it would be an easy mistake to take berg for burgh (town, borough).

From names to name-dropping: most sites dedicated to Kayserberg will tell you that it is the birthplace of Albert Schweitzer. His father was pastor and teacher in this small Protestant parish.

Whereas most of France is traditionally Roman Catholic, Alsace is predominantly Lutheran and for historical reasons the clergy are paid by the state. The region also has a different social security system to the rest of France, plus some extra bank holidays such as Good Friday and Boxing Day.

Back to Schweitzer: Kayserberg is, not surprisingly, twinned with Lambaréné, Gabon, where the famous doctor, theologian, philosopher and musician built a hospital after leaving France for West Africa in 1913. Of the two museums dedicated to the man and his work, one is to be found in Kayserberg, the other in Gunsbach, in the house Schweitzer had constructed as his French home-from-home (pied-à-terre).

Paint, paint, plant, plant!

The most photographed letterbox?
The most photographed letterbox?
Geranium season, a good time to visit
Geranium season, a good time to visit
More paint, more plants
More paint, more plants

Too much colour?

The three pictures above are so typical of Alsace towns and villages; the colourful timbered houses are among the main attractions of the region, and Kayserberg doesn't let the side down.

Some might find the pastels rather too pretty, and many Brits are charmed by the dilapidated quaintness of other parts of France. It has to be said, however, that there are gems in other regions too: Gerberoy, for example, to the west of Beauvais in the Oise department, is officially one of France's 140 most beautiful villages Visit it while the roses are in bloom and the famous gardens at their best.



They do build big!

Not as quiet as it looks
Not as quiet as it looks
Tourist Information below the castle
Tourist Information below the castle

Architecture alsacienne

Not all houses in Kayserberg are as big and broad as the two above, the second of which is now the Tourist Information Office. Compare them with the  riverbank cottages above.

The castle is only a ten-minute climb from here, but weather was not permitting the day these pictures were taken. Thankfully, it did clear up, as evidenced by the lady sitting on the wall; she is wearing only a light jacket. She looks familiar …

I really like the Tourist Office upper-floor windows and woodwork; the relative plainness of the ground floor sets them off beautifully. There are inviting nooks and crannies a few paces from here, home to some interesting boutiques.

That's some collection!

The door was open and I couldn't resist
The door was open and I couldn't resist

Well, it was a garage door giving onto the street, so it wasn't much of an intrusion! Although it could arguably be anywhere, I think the arrangement of these baskets (paniers, corbeilles) captures something of the spirit of Alsace - order, beauty and an eye for detail. I don't know if the owners kept their garage door open for the benefit of passers-by; if not, I'm glad I passed by au bon moment. It was the icing on the cake, or la cerise sur le gateau (the cherry on the cake), another treat to a day full of them.


What goes round …

Head above the parapet
Head above the parapet

So here we are, back on the bridge over the not-so-white White River. This view looks fabulous lit up; the winter illuminations are one of the attractions of the famous Christmas markets of the region.

The final photograph below shows that the town was busier than it appears in these Nikon Coolpix 4600 shots. Thanks to our boys and their wives for the camera; it has given us so much pleasure.

As in all tourist centres, there is no shortage of places to eat. We opted for one of the charming boulangeries (bakeries) and were not disappointed. We had stayed in another town the night before, so can't recommend Kayserberg BnBs or hotels first-hand. Standards are, however, consistently high here, including at the lower end of the market; this is Alsace, after all. Take advantage of it - profitez-en!

Bon voyage!

People!

If  you didn't bring a picnic
If you didn't bring a picnic

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Bo Heamyan profile image

Bo Heamyan  says:
3 weeks ago

Some great photos here James, you can consider my appetite whetted.

I have lived on France's south and west coasts when I worked seasonally and, although beautiful, they didn't have the picture-book charm that Alsace seems to have. I will have to get there sometime soon.

James Mark profile image

James Mark  says:
3 weeks ago

Thanks for stopping by. We don't know the south coast at all, but have had the privilege of a couple of visits to Corsica. I'm preparing an entry on Lake Geneva at the moment, but work commitments mean that I don't get much time for hubbing.

BrianS profile image

BrianS  says:
3 weeks ago

Another great example of the diversity of France. The photographs are really good and you can clearly see the German influence on the architecture for this region.

James Mark profile image

James Mark  says:
3 weeks ago

Thanks Brian, and also for taking a look at my second submission. Best wishes for your various activities.

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