KRATIE

Kratie (KRA-cheh) is a pleasant town along the Mekong and is the best place in the world to see the rare Irrawaddy dolphin. For this and for the glory of the sunset over the river, Kratie is a worthy breakpoint to any journey north or south and is a destination that should not be missed.

TRANSPORTATION. The road (if you can call it that) north to Stung Treng and south to Kompong Cham is absolutely terrible. Luckily, boats go south to Kompong Cham year-round. During the dry season, however, boats rarely go north, and you may be stuck taking the road. Pickups leave from the market and go to Ban Lung (9-12hr.; 7am, noon); Mondulkiri (8hr.; 6, 7am); and Stung Treng (6-8hr.; 6, 10am). Boats are a much friendlier option. Boats go year-round to Kompong Cham (fast boat: 3hr.; 6, 10:30am; slow boat: 5hr., 5:30am) and Phnom Penh (4hr., 7am). During the rainy season regular boats go to Stung Treng. In the dry season slow and speed boats rarely run, but check for the availability of cargo boats to Stung Treng (2 days).

 ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION. Kratie dozes on the east bank of the Mekong, northeast of Kompong Cham and Phnom Penh. Naviga­tion couldn't be easier. Kratie's two main streets run parallel to the river, V. Preah Sura Marlt along the bank and V. Samdech Preah Sihanouk one block back. Streets numbered from north to south, with the town's center situated between Rue 7 and Rue 10, intersect these two roads. The market is on Sihanouk between Rue 8 and Rue 10, and the post office (open M-F 7-1 lam and 2-5pm) sits between the two main streets on Rue 12. The police station  is off Rue 15 near the radioower. International phone calls can be made from the Kodak Express MiniLab on Preah Sihanouk past Hy Heng Guest House.

ACCOMMODATIONS AND FOOD. A profusion of cheap rooms graces Preah Sihanouk near the market. Star Guest House 0, on Sihanouk and Rue 10, has clean rooms and a nice atmosphere. Santepheap Hotel  is on Preah Sura Marit across from the docks. This classy yellow hotel has large modern rooms and great management. At Hy Heng Guest House  just up Sihanouk from the market behind a beauty par­lor, absurdly low hallways lead to bright and airy rooms. Prom Meas , on Sihanouk a block down from Star Guest House, has fully tiled rooms with desks. Market  food is exceptionally cheap in Kratie. Most of the town shows up to partake. For a more formal setting, try the Mekong Restaurant , on Rue 9, which has attentive service, a host of local patrons, and quality fried chicken. The the Star Guest House Restaurant is an excellent place to have breakfast and watch the market.

 SIGHTS. The best place in Cambodia to see endangered Irrawaddy dolphins is 15km north of Kratie. Hundreds more survive in Laos. Any moto driver in town can take you to the dolphin-viewing pavilion, and a boatman will pole you out on the river for a closer look. The nearby stretch of the river is also nice for swimming, and there are small rapids as well.