Lanciole Castle: High Drama in Tuscany
80Lanciole Castle
On a trip to Italy, my family and I arranged to stay at Lanciole Castle in the Tuscany region of Italy. Each region of Italy has its own unique cuisine and culture. The region of Tuscany is located on the eastern side of Italy. On the western edge is the city of Florence (Firenze). On the eastern side it the Tyrehennian Sea. The region of Tuscany also includes the island of Elba, which Napoleon Bonaparte was exiled to after being removed from power the first time.
The region of Tuscany served as the home to Leonardo da Vinci. Since he came from the city of VInci, he was known as Leonardo of Vinci. The Medici family and famous artists such as Botticelli also called the region home.
The region contains a varied landscape with mountains, coasts and forests. The cultivated areas are filled with vinyards and olive groves. The old farms and groves are often surrounded by ancient stone fences marking out their boundaries.
Since the area is rich in agricultural products, it was often fought over by rival groups going back to the Romans and Etruscans. During the medieval era, the rival factions constructed towers and castles to protect their holdings. These stone towers dot the landscape and can be readily seen in the hills and mountains of the region.
Lanciole Castle is located in the Apennine Mountains to the north of the city of Pescia. The castle is located in the sub-region of Tuscany known as Pistoia. Nearby is the spa-resort city of Montecatini Terme. The thermal baths at Montecatini Terme have a history of use going back to the Romans. (Terme is a word used for thermal baths). Each of the rival groups that contested the region left their marks in Tuscany. Throughout the region ruins and remnants of Etruscan and Roman civilizations dotting the countryside.
Pescia
Pescia and Pistoia
Our hostess warned us that we would never be able to find the Lanciole castle at night on our own. I doubted the warning until we began our first trek to it. I realized the truth of her statement when we began our journey. Passing through the narrow medieval town gate of Pescia, located in the Pistoia portion of Tuscany we knew that we had entered another world filled with narrow streets ancient trees and a way of life that had little use for lifestyles revolving around blackberries or laptops. The medieval gates were emblazoned with the coat of arms of the local ruling family. Although Pescia itself had a long history as an independent city-state, it was eventually incorporated into a regional power with other cities. Now it is known for its flower market. The locals preserve their culture with medieval themed festivals that recall its former days as a center of trade and influence.
On leaving Pescia, the road up the wooded mountain to Lanciole looked more ominous with the addition of stone walls along their outside edge. The river worn stones in the streambed added a sense of ruggedness. At each turn and twist in the narrow road, I dreaded the thought of having to share this road with the occasional trucks and local blue bus that traveled the mountain road. The few places to pull over were often occupied by the parked cars of adventurers seeking chestnuts and elusive porcini mushrooms growing wild on the hillsides. We passed through a few small villages, where earth-tone painted houses wasted none of the limited space between the mountain and the road. On other sections of the road, one side is made of steep mountain cuts and the other only has six to eight inches of shoulder. For someone used to travelling interstates, the narrowness and steepness of the roads took some getting used to.
Arriving at Lanciole Castle
Finally, rounding another hairpin curve, through a clearing, we saw the square tower rising above the surrounding forest. Reaching the ancient stone tower, we found a place to park and took in what would be our home for the next week. The sound of the town fountain served as a pleasant backdrop to the scent of fresh apples and clusters of grapes hanging from vines nearby. Terra cotta roof tiles crowned the homes surrounding the castle. The varying styles of tiles revealed when they had been replaced. The Medici coat of arms affixed to the tower indicates the importance of the location.
Lavender and fig trees bordered the steep worn stone entryway through the grounds to the 12th century castle. On reaching the entrance, we found a welcome basket consisting of a bottle of the local wine, pasta and fresh fruit provided for our stay. The thick stone walls held up well for the past 700+ years. The entry terrace provided a 210-degree panoramic view of the forested hills, valleys and mountainside. The extensive view and refreshing cool mountain air let us know why so many people visit Tuscany. We could also see other towers and castles on the neighborhing hills. At night, we often heard the bells of those communities which were sounded on the hour.
Lanciole: The Countryside and Castle
Guelphs and Ghibiline Links
- Guelphs and Ghibellines
Guelphs and Ghibellines - CATHOLIC ENCYCLOPEDIA: Guelphs and Ghibellines
Names adopted by the two factions that kept Italy divided and devastated by civil war during the greater part of the later Middle Ages - Guelphs and Ghibellines
History of the Guelphs and Ghibellines in Tuscan and Italian history - Guelphs and Ghibellines
Finding the Mysteries
Our sons immediately set out exploring the castle and surrounding area discovering dates, a strange cross and two faces carved in the building stones. I asked our hostess about these findings. She informed me that the castle, besides being a Ghibiline stronghold had also served as Knights Templar outpost. This particular outpost served as a hospital facility in the Templar network of fortresses across Europe. Questions arose regarding the need for such a hospital this high up in the mountainous Pistoia region of Tuscany. If someone was ill or wounded, it would have been difficult to carry them up the mountain side. This castle, as a stop on the Templar network still holds mysteries. Knowing that the Templars were banished from France before they left Italy, I recognized the stone tower outpost could easily have been part of their network for those escaping France and transporting riches from there.
Our hostess also told us of the remains of a 13th century church on a nearby wooded mountain top. The church was destroyed to prevent it from giving an unfair advantage to the possessing side in the rivalry between the cities Florence and Lucca. An old man in the village could take us to the exact location. The church was built during the time of the rise of Florence and the wars between the Guelphs and the Ghibillines. The Guelphs were supporters of Papal authority and the Ghibilines were supporters of the authority of the German Emperor who then occupied parts of Italy. The warring between the factions was intense as each side manuvered for control of the Italian cities. Centuries before the Guelphs and Ghibilines, there area was contested by the Etruscans and the Romans.
As a Ghibiline fortress, the area of Lanciole produced lances, from which the village received its name. At that time in history, lances were a major weapon used in warfare. Being located high in the Appenines secured the moutain paths for the Ghibiline faction. At that time of these warring factions the local cities competed with each other as well. The struggle lasted over 350 years, as each side attempted shifting the balance of power in its direction.When a competing faction took over a city, it banished the previous controlling faction.
During that time lances were a formidable weapon. The lances produced there were likely used in battles of Monteperiti and Campaldino. Dante himself fought in the battle of Campaldino, where the Ghibillines were eventually defeated. His joy was short-lived in that the portion of the Guelphs he aligned himself with were soon banished from Florence. Dante had the last word in his Inferno, by placing the local political leader in the lower depths of Hell.
Author's Links and Lanciole Accomodations
- Jeffrey Murrah's Storefront - Lulu.com
If you enjoy history, you will be thrilled with the authors history books. They are sure to stimulate hours of thought provoking conversations. - Terry's Texas Rangers | Jeffrey D. Murrah
The author's history of the fight'nest cavalry unit in the War Between the States. - Info on staying at Lanciole Castle
- http://www.bedsandhomes.com/pages/rental_property.php/3179/_Europe_Italy_Tuscany_Lucca_Lanciole_
The Lance Manor Castle, the Fairy cottage, a Cottage Holiday / Vacation Rental in Lanciole, Lucca, Tuscany, Italy, Vacation Rental / Holiday Home - the.lance.castle
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Comments
The Templar part I found fascinating. The owner of th ecastle told us tha tit was a Templar hospital. I pondered many times why put a hospital in the mountains like that? I still do not have a satisfactory answer. I did discover that the Templars often developed networks of "safe" places for them to travel through. My suspicison is that this was one of those safe places. It is not to far from Pisa, which is where the Templars placed many loads of dirt from the holyland, so that they could be buried in holyland dirt.
Perhaps there is a connction?
It makes for some interesting considerations.
Great post! I love the Templars... and I'm fond of Tuscany!
Lost Dutchman,
Thank you for the kind words. Lanciole is a place where the story of the Templars and Tuscany come together.
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Constant Walker says:
16 months ago
Wow... Awesome locale, and anything about the Templars is always interesting.