Holiday Plant Toxicity---Several of our favorite holiday plants should be kept from children and pets, yet often they pose no serious danger in small amounts. There are many other and more toxic substances to children in homes to be mindful of, cleaning, laundry and personal care products as they poison more people yearly.

The poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), the most popular flowering potted plant for indoors, has gotten a bum rap for a number of years. It's been falsely accused of being poisonous, yet no deaths from this plant have ever been recorded. In fact, research studies have proven that poinsettias present no health hazard. The rumors arise from a highly questionable report of a single fatality in Hawaii more than 80 years ago, a child who reportedly died after eating one leaf. That's why it's important to place poinsettias, and other holiday plants, out of the reach of children and curious pets. Keep in mind that pets and people may differ in what plants are toxic and to what degree. How safe are other holiday plants? Here's the rundown on plants with toxic properties.

Holly (Ilex): Branches are used during the holidays in arrangements for the shiny (but prickly) dark green leaves and berries. Eating the bright, red berries of this plant usually result in no toxicity in small quantities. Large quantities cause nausea, abdominal pain, or vomiting.

Jerusalem Cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum): This potted plant has been more popular in decades past, but still can be found during the holidays (so also called Christmas Cherry) for the rounded red fruits against the dark green leaves on a plant about a foot high. Every part of this plant contains the toxic substance solanocapsine, especially in unripened fruits and leaves. Eating the fruit or foliage will adversely affect the heart and can cause a range of symptoms including stomach pain, vomiting, headache, drowsiness, to others more severe.

Mistletoe (Phoradendron serotinum): This plant parasite of deciduous trees in the Southeastern states is used during the holidays for hanging above doorways, and for its white berries. While most exposures result in little or no toxicity, eating large amounts can cause acute stomach and intestinal disorders. These are caused by the chemical phoratoxin, related to ricin.

Yew (Taxus): The leaves, seeds (not the red fleshy covering), bark, and twigs of this evergreen can be toxic, causing breathing difficulties, uncontrollable trembling, and vomiting. Most reported poisonings are from the seeds, and only result in mild symptoms. Allergic reactions may occur from nibbling on leaves. Yew is a great example of the difference between people and animals, toxic to the former but devoured by deer.

Azalea (Rhododendron): This holiday plant is mainly grown as a shrub outdoors with thousands of variants. The leaves can be toxic, containing grayanotoxins. Perhaps the first written account of rhododendrons was from the 4th century in Greece depicting the poisoning of ten thousand soldiers from a yellow shrub azalea. Recently, one study concluded that eating moderate amounts of azalea posed little danger to humans. Pets and children may be more seriously affected, so should be kept from them.

Cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum): Since the thickened roots (rhizomes) of these are the toxic part, containing triterpenoid saponins, it is unlikely humans (including children) would eat such and be affected, and then only if large quantities are ingested. Pets, especially those that like to dig in pots, should be kept away from cyclamen.

Amaryllis (Hippeastrum): The toxic part of this plant is the bulb, which contains lycorine and similar alkaloids. These are the compounds found also in daffodils, and the reason wild animals like deer know to leave them alone. House pets may not be so wise, so keep these away from them. Ingestion by humans is unlikely, with small amounts producing few or no symptoms. If you suspect poisoning, seek immediate professional help. Unless told to do so by such doctors, do NOT make the person throw up. Call your local poison control center, often at your local hospital.

Armchair Gardening---Gardening from an easy chair is one of the high points of winter. On one of those particularly cold and blustery wintry days, I like to gather up all the seed catalogs that have arrived in my mailbox and settle down for a good read. Most catalogs offer a lot more than just an order list for seeds and plants. Some are packed with useful information on culture and care, planting locations, landscaping with plants and full descriptions of new varieties, including the All-America Selections.

Many give recommendations on plant hardiness, disease and pest resistance and soil requirements of the plants and seeds they offer. A few even provide recipes. If you decide to place an order, exercise a bit of caution and restraint. It's easy to order more than you need. While you may have visions of a well-stocked vegetable or flower garden, ten packages of seeds to fill a five- by five-foot growing area certainly will be too much! That's why a little advance planning is important. Map out your garden, roughly to scale, then "fit in" the varieties you always grow. Leave room to try a few new vegetables and flowers. Then figure out how many packets of seeds you need to buy. Or order with a friend, dividing up each packet of seed, so you can try a lot of different varieties.

If you've never ordered from catalogs, preferring to buy locally, you might like to send for a few just for background information and new ideas. You'll find them advertised in the back sections in gardening magazines. Many town libraries also have a collection of garden catalogs. Order your own copy of those that appeal to you, reflect the growing requirements of your region, or offer varieties best suited to your garden. Most catalogs are free, but a few charge a nominal fee that can be deducted from your first purchase.

There are two reasons why I like to order by mail. First, it is convenient. Second, you often can get varieties not available at your local garden center. But if you have never ordered by mail, you may have some concerns, and justifiably so, regarding reliability. Here are a few things to keep in mind: 1) Choose an established firm, preferably one that has its own catalog. 2) Understand what you are ordering. Do not be persuaded by extravagant claims. Read the descriptions carefully and make sure the plant is suitable for your climate, hardiness zone, and growing conditions. 3) Before you fill out your order, read the instructions carefully. 4) Check for a warrantee, a hotline number, or other indicator that the company stands behind its products and cares about customer satisfaction.

A few catalogs, a cup of hot cocoa, and these tips can make planning next spring's garden a pleasant task this winter. So, sit back, relax, and garden from your easy chair!

Salt Tolerance of Plants---With heavy snows comes heavy salting of roads, resulting in subsequent damage to roadside plants. Certain preventative measures, and selection of salt-tolerant plants, will help lessen the damage. The symptoms of excessive salt resemble those caused by drought or root injury. They include stunted, yellow foliage; premature autumn leaf coloration; death of leaf margins (scorch); and twig dieback. When conifers are injured by salt spray, the affected foliage turns yellow or brown in early spring. If spray is the primary cause of the salt deposit, discolored needles are soon masked by the new year's growth. However, if salt is excessive in the soil, the new needles may die as chloride ions accumulate in them. This could be lethal to the entire plant if it occurs for several consecutive years.

One characteristic of salt injury that aids in diagnosis is that it is often confined to branches facing the road. Trees closer to the road suffer more damage than those set farther back. Screens of fencing or burlap may be erected to ward off salt spray from roads. Salt and snow should not be piled around plants or in places where the resulting salt water will drain into plants when the snow melts.

If weather permits, it's a good idea to flush the area around roots exposed to salt with fresh water as soon as the snow melts. Where new trees and shrubs are to be planted and where exposure to salt is likely, select species or cultivars resistant to salt injury. Examples of salt-tolerant evergreens include tamarack (larch) and Austrian pine. Salt-tolerant deciduous trees include yellow birch, Russian olive, honey locust, white poplar, white oak, red oak, and weeping willow. Salt-tolerant shrubs include rugosa rose, tamarisk, tatarian honeysuckle, and pfitzer juniper.

December Gardening Tips---Join the “greening” trend this season by “giving green” for the New Year. In the literal sense, there are those beautiful floral traditions of the season with potted poinsettias, amaryllis, Christmas cacti, Jerusalem cherries, azaleas, kalanchoes and more. In your own backyard, wish for a white winter.

Whether you like snow or not, our garden plants generally do. What we hope for is a gradual cool down until the soil freezes and plants become dormant. Then we want a blanket of several inches of snow that sticks around until spring thaw. Our plants’ worst winter nightmare is of a warm November suddenly plummeting to temperatures in the single digits with no snow cover and fluctuating temperatures all winter long.

If you find the time this season, there still are a few tasks to take on in the yard. Indoors use fresh and live holiday decorations liberally. Be sure to recycle trees and wreaths when it is all over. They can be chipped for mulch or used either whole for bird feeding stations or with branches stripped and used to blanket tender perennials and new transplants.

First Week To dress up empty planters, branches may be pruned sparingly from evergreens and deciduous shrubs with colorful or interesting bark. 

Needle-type evergreen boughs may be used to shield broadleaf evergreens like rhododendrons and boxwoods from sun and wind. Stick the stem ends into the ground to surround and protect small plants with a naturalistic look. Or use burlap and stakes to loosely surround but not completely cover them or create a screen especially on the windward side.

Evergreens growing close to roads where fast moving traffic produces a salty spray over the winter should also be protected. Remove tall grass and weeds from the bases of trees, too. Protect trunks of young trees by wrapping. Spiral plastic trunk barriers or hardware cloth close to the trunk are the best options. Surround multi-stemmed and low branching trees and shrubs with chicken wire or hardware cloth held securely against the ground. It should be tall enough to protect branches as high up as a rabbit can reach when on its hind legs on top of a snow bank. Combine several tactics to scare away animals that can damage your plants in the winter. Shiny, noisy, moving objects hung in the garden along with bags of human hair or soap can be used in addition to commercial repellents or ones prepared at home. Remember to reapply these substances often since most of them lose their potency quickly. Check your yard, garage or tool shed for garden products and equipment that should be stored indoors for the winter. Liquids should not be allowed to freeze. Pesticides should be stored locked, out of the reach of children, and in their original containers. Plastic sprayers and rubber and vinyl hoses should be stored empty, preferably indoors. Winterize your lawn mower by running the engine dry, draining and replacing the oil, cleaning the air filter, oiling the plug, and wiping clean the engine. Now is a great time to take it in for a tune-up and blade sharpening so it’s ready as soon as that first surge of growth comes in the spring. Clean garden tools with a wire brush and apply a light coat of oil to protect them from rusting. Sharpen edges of hoes and spades. Clean, readjust and sharpen the blades of pruning tools. Lightly sand handles and then apply a coat of linseed oil. Second Week If the ground is finally frozen an inch or so deep, it is now safe to apply winter mulches to newly transplanted or tender perennial flowers, roses and strawberries. This will insulate them from the cold above ground and help reduce the fluctuations of temperatures in the soil throughout the season, which can heave their root balls right out of the ground. Surround rose bushes with chicken wire cages and fill with up to two feet of chopped, dry leaves or straw to protect them for the winter. Cover the base of the stems with several inches of soil or compost first and then place the chicken wire on top of the mound after it has frozen. Tie canes together with cloth strips or nylons to keep them from rubbing when they are blown by the wind. Do not cut them at this time. Wait until next spring when you will know how much was killed and therefore how much to prune out. Mulch strawberries with straw, leaves, or evergreen boughs. Mulch needs to be 6 inches deep after it has packed down. Branches cut from a discarded Christmas tree are perfect either as the mulch or to prevent straw or leaves from blowing away. Pile soil or compost over the crowns of garden chrysanthemums that are in very exposed sites for the winter. Then add inches of mulch on top. Whether covering mums or not, do not cut off dead stems until next spring. A thick layer of straw over root crops like potatoes, parsnips, and carrots as well as parsley and leeks will protect them long enough to harvest them a little at a time well into the winter.

Third Week Cyclamen, Christmas cactus and azaleas are good choices for people who keep their houses cool. Also look for Jerusalem cherry, ornamental peppers, and kalanchoes. Be sure to cover them when transporting even a short distance - most are very sensitive to temperatures below 50 - 55 degrees. Floral arrangements should be kept cool and out of the sun. Contrary to common belief, arrangements and cut flowers should be watered with very warm water, which contains floral preservative. Re-cut flower stem ends first and then condition them in a very cool spot for several hours before bringing them into warmer rooms. Every couple of days, re-cut the stem ends, wash the vase with soap, and refill with warm floral preservative water. Substitute non-diet lemon lime soda or vinegar and a drop of bleach if you don’t have preservative on hand (not an aspirin, a penny or a nail as is sometimes recommended. These don’t work.) Check stored vegetables like tomatoes, potatoes, onions and garlic and non-hardy bulbs like canna, tuberous begonia, dahlia, and gladiolus for mildew and rot. Remove affected items immediately. Geraniums stored dry in the basement or attic for the winter should be checked and the root systems moistened. Do this monthly all winter. Avoid rock salt, which is sodium chloride, to melt sidewalk and driveway ice. Products made of calcium chloride or potassium chloride cause less damage to plants. For traction, sprinkle sand, kitty litter, or wood ashes sparingly. Mix with a little melting compound if more than just traction is needed. Minimize de-icing and traction products to reduce pollution in storm sewers and streams. Fourth Week Watch your new holiday gift plants closely. Most of them need bright but indirect light and moderate temperatures. Keep them out of drafts as well as away from the hot air from heat vents, fireplaces, and TV's. Keep the soil just slightly moist and do not allow them to stand in runoff water. Adjust your indoor plant watering practices as needed according to the weather conditions. Plants use less water on cloudy days and during the short days of mid-winter. December 21st is the shortest day of the year. Cool conditions indoors may also mean less water is needed. Groom indoor plants to clean leaves, remove fallen leaves and faded flowers. Cleaning removes dust and grease that can clog leaf pores. Hand dust large-leaved plants with a pair of old socks or gloves on both hands. Put a individuals or groups of plants in the shower if hand washing is not possible. To keep soil from washing away cover it with foil, newspaper or plastic.

Recycling Christmas Trees---After the holidays, there are several ways to dispose of or recycle your tree. Before recycling your Christmas tree, remove all tinsel and ornaments. Some suggestions are: Place the tree in the yard or garden for use by birds and other wildlife. The branches provide shelter from strong winds and cold. Food can be supplied by hanging fruit slices, seed cakes, suet bags, or strings of cranberries or raisins on the tree's branches. You can also smear peanut butter and seeds in pine cones and hang them in the tree. Prune off the branches and place the boughs over perennials as a winter mulch. Chip the tree and use as a mulch around trees, shrubs, or in perennial flower beds. If you can't use the tree yourself, contact local government offices, such as the Public Works Department, or your sanitation service. Most communities have some type of Christmas tree disposal program. Some have central collection points, others collect the trees at curbside. Conservation groups may be another option. Some hunting and fishing groups collect trees and use them to provide habitat for fish and wildlife. Don't burn your Christmas tree in a fireplace or wood stove. Dry, evergreen branches literally explode when burned and could cause a house fire. Also, burning the tree may contribute to the buildup of creosote and lead to a flue fire. For many, selecting and decorating the Christmas tree is one of the highlights of the holiday season, and then after the holidays to recycle the tree and prolong its usefulness.

Growing African Violets---African violets are one of America's most popular houseplants. Under the right growing conditions, they are able to bloom almost continuously indoors. They are also available in a wide range of flower colors, leaf types, and growth habits (trailing, miniature, standard, etc.). The history of African Violets dates back to the late 18th century. Baron Walter von St. Paul discovered these blooming beauties growing in West Africa and sent samples or seed home to Germany. By the early 1900's African violets were blooming in Europe and around the world. The development of hybrid varieties with violet, purple, and blue flower colors in the late 1920's by the Los Angeles nursery of Armacost and Roysten increased the popularity of African violets. Since the 1920's hundreds of cultivars have been developed with an immense variety of flower and leaf colors, shapes, and sizes. Today, flower colors include blue, purple, red-violet, orchid, lavender, red pink, white, and bi-color or multi-colored. There are single, double, semi-double, star-shaped, fringed, and ruffled flower types. Leaf types include plain, ruffled, fringed, scalloped, spooned, pointed, and variegated. The American Violet Society has 4 classes of African violets based on plant size: miniature (less than 6 inches in diameter), semi-miniature (6 to 8 inches), standard (8 to 16 inches), and large (over 16 inches). No matter which flower color, leaf type, or habit you select, the care for all types of African violets is similar. While these are relatively easy to grow houseplants, they do require consistent care. Proper light is essential for good bloom. African violets require more light than most growers first realize. Thin, dark, blue-green leaves with long petioles indicate insufficient light levels. While moderate light is needed, direct light for long periods can be damaging as well. Too much light produces leaves that are small, crinkled, leathery, and yellow with short petioles on stunted plants. Generally, north and eastern exposures are best for African violets. However, if these exposures are not possible, African violets perform beautifully under artificial lights as well. Fluorescent lights suspended approximately 8 inches above the plants for 12 to 16 hours per day will produce sufficient light to initiate blooms in African violets. African violets require temperatures between 65 and 80F. Typically, temperatures below 50 F will cause leaves to darken, become water-soaked, and wither. Temperatures above 85F will slow growth and flowering of African violets and may injure the leaves as well. Water temperature becomes important during the winter months, as cold water directly on the leaves will damage them quickly. Watering African violets is often the most difficult part of their care. They require a moist, well-drained soil. If the soils are too wet, the plants may rot. If plants are too dry, they will not grow or flower well. Many people sub-irrigate African violets. This means placing the plant in a saucer of water and allowing the plant to soak up water from the bottom of the pot. This prevents injury from cold water on the leaves and insures the entire soil profile is moist. However, care must be taken not to allow the plants to sit for long periods in water as they may rot quickly. Allow the top inch of the soil to dry before sub-irrigating again. African violets can also be watered from the top if room temperature water is used and the foliage remains dry. In fact, it is recommended to irrigate from the top occasionally to prevent salt accumulation. Wick watering is another method that is increasing in popularity. This is a continuous watering system with a water reservoir at the base of the plant and an absorbent wick that connects the soil and the water reservoir. This method is effective in maintaining an even moisture level of the soil. However, periodic leaching of the soil profile with water from the top might be necessary to prevent the accumulation of salts. Regular fertilization is needed to encourage plants to bloom throughout the year. A complete fertilizer at a low rate is recommended. Excessive fertilization leads to vigorous vegetative growth, poor flowering, and the accumulation of salts in the soil. The accumulation of salts can ultimately damage or destroy foliage. Flush soils occasionally with clear water to eliminate salt buildup in the soil. A loose, porous, fertile soil or soilless mix that is slightly acidic (6.0 or 6.5) is needed for growing African violets. Peat-based soils that have been pasteurized are best. Garden or field soil is not satisfactory alone since it is often poorly drained and compacts easily. Many commercial soiless mixes are available. African violets make great houseplants. With a proper environment and regular care they will reward you with blooms all year. If grown properly, African violets have few problems with insects or diseases. Some of the more common pest problems include mites and mealybugs. Mites are small spiders that attack the undersides of the leaves, new growth, and flowers. Small webs are normally found around the leaf axils (junction of leaf petiole and main stem). Mites are so small they are not visible to the naked eye and the damage to the plant is often noticed first. Control of mites may require isolating the infected plant and spraying with soapy water or a miticide. Mealybugs are easier to identify, as they are larger than spider mites. Mealybugs are whitish and often exude a "cottony mass" of sticky material for protection. Control requires soapy water baths or removal of the bugs with alcohol dipped cotton swabs. Whenever, the foliage of African violets are wetted, warm water must be used and sufficient time allowed for the leaves to dry out before dark. Foliage that stays moist is prone to fungal diseases. One common fungal foliar disease is powdery mildew. Infected leaves will have small circles of a gray or whitish powder on the topside of the leaves. Control for powdery mildew requires the removal of infected leaves and spacing plants out more for better air circulation between plants. Powdery mildew tends to more of a problem on plants that are overcrowded. Crown rot is another common fungal problem of African violets that are overwatered. Crown rot causes the main stem and lower leaves to appear water-soaked, shrivel and die. Crown rot usually leads to death of the plant. Allowing the top of the soil to dry out between watering will prevent crown rot.

Carnivorous Plants---There is an intimate relationship between insects and plants. Neither could exist without the other. Bees, wasps, and butterflies benefit plants by pollinating their flowers. Other insect species feed on plants by sucking sap from plant tissue or by devouring plant parts. However, in a fascinating twist of nature, there are a small number of plants that "eat" insects. The diet of these plants also includes mites, sowbugs and occasionally small animals, such as frogs. Accordingly, these flesh-eating plants are true carnivores. Carnivorous plants don't survive solely by "eating" insects and other prey. Carnivorous plants, as all green plants, contain chlorophyll and manufacture food via photosynthesis. Insects and other small creatures are simply a supplemental food source for carnivorous plants. The Venus' fly trap, pitcher plant, and sundew are carnivorous plants that make fascinating houseplants.

Venus' Fly Trap---The Venus' fly trap (Dionaea muscipula) is native to a small coastal area in North and South Carolina. The plant consists of a rosette of flattened leaves. The upper portion of each leaf has a trap-like structure. The two-lobbed trap is hinged down the center and fringed with long, teeth-like projections. The inner surface of the trap is dark pink to red. There are also 3 trigger hairs on the inner surface of each lobe. Nothing happens if only one trigger hair is touched by an insect. However, when one trigger hair is touched twice or when two are touched in succession, the trap closes. The teeth-like projections interlock, trapping the unsuspecting victim inside. The struggling victim stimulates the secretion of digestive juices. These juices digest the soft parts of the insect. Only the hard, indigestible parts of the insect remain when the trap reopens in about 10 days. The open trap then awaits its next victim. Pitcher Plant---There are several genera (groups of plants with common traits), which are referred to as pitcher plants. The genera Sarracenia and Darlingtonia are native to North America. Plants in the South American genus Heliamphora, the tropical Asian genus Nepenthes, and the Australian genus Cephalotus are also called pitcher plants. All pitcher plants have modified leaves or leave parts that resemble a pitcher. The pitcher- like structure holds water and is topped with a hood or lid. Unsuspecting insects and other prey wander into the pitcher. Escape from the pitcher is prevented by a smooth surface, downward- pointing hairs, or inrolled rim. Eventually the trapped victim falls into the water and drowns. The drowned victim is then converted to plant nutrients by digestive enzymes in the water. Sundew---There are more than 100 species of sundews (Drosera). Sundews are mostly short- stemmed plants consisting of a rosette of foliage. Depending on the species, the leaves vary from thread-like to paddle-shaped to nearly round. The leaves are covered with tiny (usually red) hairs. These hairs exude a clear, sticky fluid. The dew-like secretions give the plants their common name. The sticky droplets trap unwary insects or other small creatures that come in contact with it. The struggling victim stimulates the hairs to bend inward, drawing it closer to the leaf where it is digested into plant nutrients. Carnivorous plants have more exacting requirements than most commonly grown houseplants. Carnivorous plants require a moist, acidic growing medium, high relative humidity and bright light. Excellent containers for carnivorous plants include a fish aquarium or large terrarium. A piece of plexiglass placed over the top will help maintain a high relative humidity. Ventilation can be provided by keeping the plexiglass slightly ajar. A suitable growing medium for carnivorous plants consists of 2 parts sphagnum peat moss and one part coarse sand. If using a fish aquarium or terrarium, place 1 inch of coarse gravel on the bottom before adding the growing medium. Good lighting is essential for carnivorous plants. An east or west facing window that receives at least 1 or 2 hours of direct sun is fine. A fluorescent light fixture containing two 40 watt tubes can be used in poorly lit areas. Day-time temperatures should be 70 to 75 F during the summer and 55 to 60 F in winter. When watering carnivorous plants, use rain or distilled water. Tap water may be too alkaline or contain too many minerals. Finally, there is usually no need to fertilize carnivorous plants. These plants are native to areas with low nutrient levels. If you do fertilize, a 1/4 strength solution of fish emulsion every 2 to 4 weeks during the growing season should be sufficient. Do not feed them hamburger. Carnivorous plants are a fascinating group of plants. Their amazing growth characteristics and ability to eat insects and other small creatures are simply adaptations to their unique environment.

Winter Care of Houseplants---Winter weather adversely affects growing conditions for houseplants. Proper care during the winter months can help insure the health of houseplants. Temperatures-Most houseplants grow well with daytime temperatures of 65 to75 F and night temperatures of 60 to 65 F. Temperatures below 50 For rapid temperature fluctuations may damage some plants. Keephouseplants away from cold drafts, radiators, and hot air vents. Also make sure houseplant foliage doesn't touch cold windows. Relative Humidity-Many houseplants prefer a humidity level of 40 to 50%.Unfortunately, the relative humidity found in many homes during the winter months may be only 10 to 20% -- a level too low for many houseplants. Humidifiers are an excellent way to increase the relative humidity in a single room or throughout the entire home. Simple cultural procedures can also increase the relative humidity around houseplants. Group plants together. The water evaporating from the potting soil, plus water lost through the plant foliage (transpiration), will increase the relative humidity in the immediate vicinity of the houseplants. Another method is to place the houseplants on trays (saucers) filled with pebbles or gravel and water. The bottoms of the pots should be above the water level. Misting houseplants is not an effective method to raise relative humidity. Misting would have to be done several times daily to appreciably raise the humidity level and is simply not practical. In general, houseplants require less frequent watering during the winter months than in spring and summer. Actively growing plants need more water than those at rest during the winter months. Plant species also affects watering frequency. Ferns prefer an evenly moist soil and should be watered relatively frequently. Cacti and succulents, on the other hand, should not be watered until the potting soil is completely dry. The majority of houseplants fall between these two groups. Most houseplants should be watered when the soil is barely moist or almost dry to the touch. When watering houseplants, water them thoroughly. Water should freely drain out of the bottoms of the pots. If the excess water drains into a saucer, discard the water and replace the saucer beneath the pot. Houseplants need to be fertilized periodically when actively growing in the spring and summer. Fertilization is generally not necessary during the winter months because most plants are growing very little or resting. Indoor gardeners can begin to fertilize houseplants in March or April as growing conditions improve and the plants resume growth. Fertilizers are available in numerous forms: liquids, water soluble powders, tablets, spikes, etc. Regardless of the fertilizer type, carefully read and follow label directions. Dust and grease often accumulate on the leaves of houseplants. The dust and grease not only makes them unattractive, it may slow plant growth. Cleaning houseplants improves their appearance, stimulates growth and may help control insects and mites. Large, firm-leafed plants may be cleaned with a soft sponge or cloth. Wash the foliage using a very mild solution of dishwashing soap and tepid water. Another method is to place the plants in the shower and give them a good "bath." Be sure to adjust the water temperature before placing the plants under the shower head.