Let's face it. Leadville Colorado is not on the way to anywhere. You have to plan to go there. Nowadays, when people are doing "staycations" and exploring their country instead of going abroad, Leadville provides an excellent opportunity for a getaway for anyone; outdoors, indoors, shoppers, and there's even some pretty good food there (not gourmet to my recollection, but pretty darn good anyway.)

My family discovered Leadville about 20 years ago when we pulled our tent trailer up there for an organized metal detector hunt. It was mid-August and we rented a space in the Sugarloafin campground next to the golf course. We got in just in time to set up the tent and run into town to grab something to eat. That was our first visit to the Golden Burro cafe with it's featured Golden Burrito. This big smothered burrito is stuffed with meat, potatoes, chili, spices, and lord knows what else. Excellent choice. Their Chicken Fried steak is also outstanding. I guess I should say was. We haven't been there in two years and things can change. Interested in fast food? There is a place in south Leadville called Wild Bills with great hamburgers and fries, onion rings, and milk shakes.

After eating we walked into what would be our favorite store in Leadville from then on. It is right next door to the Golden Burro and I believe is called the Ore House. If you collect minerals or fossils or want to pan for gold (which you can do in Leadville ) or learn about Leadville history, this is your first stop.

Heading back to our tent, we saw clouds building, not unusual for this time of the year. We buttoned down for the rain and went to sleep. The next morning, when we opened the door, we were greeted by about 1/4 inch of snow. You just never know in Colorado. I've been snowed on every month of the year including all day on the 4th of July!

The day warmed quickly and we had a wonderful stay. We would return at least annually with many stories to tell. The third year, we actually decided to camp at the hunt site in a cabin type of tent. We hadn't unpacked it since a friend of my father's borrowed it. One of the posts was broken. Hmmmm. I got a pine branch around the same size and fashioned a plug that fit into the posts. We were back in business. That night, again, the clouds moved in---- and cut loose. That was when we discovered that the tent leaked from almost every seam. Only one corner stayed dry. I packed up the wife and three kids and we headed into town to find a room. Surprise!!! None to be found. The town was completely sold out. We went back to the tent and while one person slept in the dry area, the rest of us spent the night in the car. The next morning I approached the fire in the check in area for the hunt and announced that anyone who wanted the tent only need to take it down! We had a taker and since then have been able to enjoy the hospitality (and showers) of the inns and motels in town.

Leadville is an comparatively old city by Colorado standards. Once considered as a possible state capital, it saw many colorful characters come through. One of the most famous was Doc Holliday of OK Coral fame. He gambled many a hand in Leadville at the Board of Trade Saloon and even spent a few nights in the town slammer. I mention the Board of Trade for another reason. One day while metal detecting around Leadville, I found a disc with a small hole in it. In it was engraved "Board of Trade, 25, JH Samson" At the time I did not know this was a trade token from the old saloon opened in 1879. We looked up the history and tried to determine the location of the saloon. After some frustration we were driving into town from the south getting ready to pull into a gas station. As we did, in very faded letters on the side of the old brick building by the station, was Board of Trade and an arrow pointing across the street. The saloon is now called the Silver Dollar.

Leadville, in its heyday, was much larger than now. There were several towns that built up south of town along California Gulch. Stringtown is the only one that remains. The roughest one was said to be Bucktown, the last of the small towns. It was considered one of the wildest towns in the area since the law of Leadville just didn't quite make it to Bucktown. Greenhorns and tenderfooted travelers were out of luck. Nothing remains of the town now.

In the winter of 1895-96, Leadville was home to the Ice Palace and Crystal Carnival. This full size ice castle was the largest structure of its kind ever built. It included a skating rink, restaurant, ballroom, theatre and other features. Another of my favorite finds was a heart-shaped brass souvenir from the Ice Palace.

Being a treasure hunter, I've got to tell one more story. While having metal detector competitions, it is not at all unusual to find natural items among the planted ones. The first year, there was a nice cigar store token found in the hunt field. A few years later a 6 inch lead toy cowboy was found. That however, was not the most unusual item. As one hunt was winding down with most all the planted items having been found, one of the hunters decided to start checking under some trees. One particular spruce came clear to the ground and spread out. He worked in among the branches and got a solid signal. Reaching down, he pushed a stack of pine needles aside to expose the ground. Instead he had 5 barrels from an old cap and ball pistol pointing him right in the eye. He carefully removed it. The spruce had so carefully protected it that it still had the wood in the handle. the bullets were rusted into the chambers but still visible. What a thought provoking find.

Now, if you've decided to see if you can trade your timeshare for a place to stay in Leadville, put away the list. The closest you will get is Frisco at the bottom of Fremont Pass. Leadville does, however, have some nice motels including chains and several very charming bed and breakfasts. Our favorite by a long shot, is the Delaware Hotel. This very old historical building has been fully restored and remodeled but keeps all of it's Victorian charm. The floors are noticeably uneven and the corners aren't square but that's part of the charm. The post beds and antiques take you back the the time that is Leadville. Walk out the door onto Third Street (I think) and stroll along the sidewalk lined with Victorian houses, many of which are now small quaint antique shops. Stroll down Harrison Street to bookstores, antique stores, restaurants, bars, all housed in Victorian buildings that maintain the charm of the town.

Don't want to stay at a hotel or motel? You can camp close to town at Sugarloafin campground or go out to nearby Turqouise Lake nestled in the pine and aspen forests that surround Leadville.

OK, so everyplace has these things. Why go to Leadville? First let me list some things to do.

I mentioned Turquoise Lake and nearby is also Twin Lakes. If you are a fisherman, these lakes are well known statewide. Rainbows, lake trout, kokonee salmon (I think) and many other species are caught in these mountain lakes. Don't fish or boat? You can take the scenic drive all the way around Turqouise Lake.

Are you a golf fanatic? Leadville is just over 10,000 feet and you can drive the ball a MILE! You think the Colorado Rockies can hit home runs at 5280 feet. Imagine a golf ball at 10000 feet. Further, all the time that you play your round of golf, you have fantastic views of Mount Massive, a 14,000 foot mountain as your backdrop.

Haven't got you yet. Let's see, antiques, golf, camping, fishing, boating; how about museums? The Healy House is open to tours. This home was built by the city founding father. The mining museum is also located in Leadville. Are you a train buff. Ride the narrow guage train (in season) from Leadville up to the mosquito range and back. How about 4 wheeling and exploring. Leadville is surrounded by old ghosttown ruins and mines that that have long since been abandoned. Be careful. Do not trespass or go into abandoned mines. Just want to hike or bicycle? Leadville has bike trails and hiking trails through the surrounding mountains.

I do want to end with a word of caution for you outdoor types. At 10,000 feet, the sun can be brutal and you can easily burn. There just isn't as much atmosphere to shield you. During one of the hunts, I was particularly warm and worn and decided to dip my hat into the nearby brook. Hot D___ that water was cold. I looked up and I could see why. The snow was still on Mount Massive where this water was coming from. I think my kids found out I knew some new words that day. Also, you have to acclimate. If you fly in from Boston and expect to climb a 14'er, you are courting altitude sickness which can be deadly. It's like the bends of the mountains. Take it easy and allow your body to acclimate. Spend a day or two enjoying Leadville before climbing Mount Massive.

And as always, enjoy your Treasured Pasts.

Stuart