It can be hard to find the perfect mailbox. Now you could go around the shops trying to find a great mailbox but why not make your own. It really is not that difficult to do. This hub will teach you how to make a great letter box.

1 Cut all the pieces and dress to size as per cutting list. Label each part and mark the face sides and edges.

2 Cut the 7mm MDF to 300mm x 280mm and a piece 280mm x 35mm for a stop. Glue the stop to the back and flush with the bottom of the jig. Clearly mark the waste areas to be cut out. Use the cut outs of the door and windows as a template to follow with your router. The size of the recess will finish slightly smaller than the cut out, allowing for the guide and cutter fitted

3 The shaded areas can be cut out in a variety of ways, depending on the tools in your workshop. Using a jigsaw will cut down on elbow grease. If not, a coping saw will do the trick. Drill a starting hole at all four corners. Cut carefully, just on the inside of the line. If you are using a variable speed jigsaw to make the cutouts, slow the speed to give you more control.

4 Use the jig to router recesses in the front, back and side pieces. Remember to label each piece carefully to avoid confusion when routing. Position the jig in the centre to make windows on the side pieces. For the back, only the top area is routed. Set the depth of the router to the total thickness of the jig material plus 3mm.

5 Mark the mail slot on the front piece then drill a hole at each end using an 18mm speed bore. Make sure you clamp the work piece securely to the bench, using scrap blocks below and beneath to protect the timber. When both holes have been drilled, cut along the lines to form a slot. Mitre the top edge of the two side pieces using a plane (the long side of the mitre is the inside).

6 Cut the door from the back piece 15mm high and 20mm in from each end. Trim the top edge and re-use as the door. Fit the piano hinge by placing the door on the back (with outsides facing each other) using minimal screws. If no adjustment is necessary, continue with the remaining screws.

7 When all the pieces have been machined, it is time to assemble. Drill two evenly spaced screw holes through the face and back pieces. Using a 9mm speed bore drill holes to 6mm deep (use masking tape around the drill as a depth stop). This hole will accommodate the plugs to be fitted later. Drill the remaining thickness with a 4mm drill bit as a clearance hole. Before assembly give all the surfaces a quick sand then screw the pieces together and fit the bottom. Cut some plugs from scrap material, slightly longer than the depth of the holes, glue in and flush off. Next fit the roofing material, sand all external surfaces and arris any sharp edges.