Maple Tree Problems
87Maple Tree Pests and Problems
As a former editor of the LoveToKnow.com Garden channel, I frequently get questions on how to identify and deal with common maple tree pests and diseases. Unfortunately, without photos, problems can be hard to identify. I've included a slideshow on this page to help you identify some of these problems, and as I come across good examples of the maple tree pests or problems, I'll photograph and add these to the slide show. Whether you have a problem identifying what a maple tree gall is, or you don't know what lichens look like, you'll find the answers here, as well as the photographs to help you identify them.
Maple Trees Problems Slideshow
Maple Tree Tar Spot
The maple tree tar spot is pretty easy to identify. I've included a photo below to help you see what one looks like. The tar spot is caused by a fungal pathogen in the genus Rhytisma. It affects maple trees, especially the Norway Maple, Silver Maple and Sugar Maple. It will not kill your trees, but it is unsightly and can cause early leaf drop before the fall season.
The spots first appear as small yellow spots in June, then progress to the familiar black spots on the leaves which can be 1/8 inch in diameter to an inch or more on the Norway Maple. The spots can also appear on the seeds (samaras).
The fungus winters-over on leaves that have dropped to the ground. If the leaves are not raked up in the fall, the spores will reappear in the spring on the old leaves and spread to any nearby tree. Treating the trees is usually not effective since the spores can travel from a neighbor's tree onto your trees.
If your tree has these spots, which then turn into curling leaves in mid-July, you may have a different disease, Anthracnose.
Maple Leaf Tar Spot
Anthracnose
Anthracnose is commonly mistaken for tar spot. However, the damage is much more extensive as it affects not only the leaves but the branches as well. The spots on the leaves are many, and are usually much smaller than the 1/8 inch tar spots.
This condition commonly occurs when there are long periods of cold and wet weather. The areas affected may include the dark small spots and irregularly shaped dead and brown areas on leaves. The leaves usually fall off in the early spring, followed by a second set of leaves which will also die off. The branches may develop cankers which can girdle the branches and kill them.
The disease is perpetuated because the fungal spores over-winter in dead leaves. When there is a prolonged wet spring, the spores have a perfect breeding ground. The spores are carried by the wind to other trees. Once infected, the disease can over-winter in the host plant in the infected branches and twigs.
The disease can be controlled by removing dead leaves in the fall from the base of your trees. Fungicide can also be applied, but due to the size and number of trees that may be affected, commercial applications are usually required. You can call your local Cooperative Extension office to find out what fungicides are legal in your state.
Anthracnose
Sooty Mold on Trunk
Sooty mold sometimes occurs on maple trees. This mold feeds on the sticky substance (honey dew) left by aphids and scale insects. If the mold rubs off easily on your fingers when you touch it, it is sooty mold. This won't kill your tree and it can be treated easily.
Try using Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub mix. Follow the instructions carefully and mix it with water. It is applied at the base of the tree and is taken up through the roots. This application should also stop reinfection for up to one year.
Lichens
Lichens can be found on many maple trees, especially mature trees. Lichens are not harmful to your trees. They don't feed off of your tree- they feed off of air. You don't need to do anything to the lichens since they aren't harmful. If you feel the need to get rid of them anyway, copper fungicides can assist you in this endeavor. As always, read the label and follow instructions to a "T."
Lichens on Maple Tree
Verticillium Wilt
One of the worst diseases that your tree can get is verticillium wilt. This affects the vascular system of the tree and usually ends in death of the tree. The verticillium fungus is a soil-borne disease and can live in the soil for years before it makes an appearance. It enters the tree through the roots.
Common symptoms are yellowing leaves, followed by the leaves wilting and entire branches can be affected. In some maples, the entire crown can wilt and die within a short period of time.
Proper diagnosis can help you make the right decision in what to do with your tree. Call your local Cooperative Extension office to see if they can come out and examine your tree. A core sample of the tree will be needed for correct diagnosis. A green or brownish green color can be found in the sapwood of affected trees.
Root Rot
Phytophthora Root Rot can affect maple trees, especially when there is a wet spring or a tree is living in poorly drained soil. The main symptom of this problem is yellow, smaller than normal, leaves. Dark brown and black roots can be found on the tree when root rot occurs.
Plants can't usually be saved when this happens, and they will need to be cut down to avoid injury to people or damage to property.
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Comments
Hi Ann, Depending upon where you live, a late frost or snow fall can kill emerging leaves, especially if the frost occurs over several days at a time. I live in NY and the maples in my front yard are looking a little sparse this spring, in regards to leafing out. If you don't notice any other problems with your tree, my best guess is that this is what happened (frost). Alternatively, your local Cooperative Extension office is always a great source of free information - give them a call if your tree doesn't appear to rally.
help, my new maple trees that are only two years old were doing well up to a week ago now the leaves are wilting and turning brown with losts of holes in them. I see nothing on the leaves, but looks like something is eating the leaves.
what is tiny red spots on my maple leaves
The leaves on my grandmothers maple tree are starting to get pointy type pods on them, I can't find anything online that looks or sounds like this, do you have any ideas?
Hi Lindsay, I need to get a picture of this posted on my hub. I believe you are describing maple leaf gall. It isn't attractive, but it won't hurt your tree. In some states it can be treated with a commercial fungicide, but it is expensive for most home owners who only have a few trees to treat. (The entire tree has to be sprayed). If you're interested in doing this, it would have to be done every year, usually in the spring. Contact your local Cooperative Extension office to find out if there is a treatment available in your state if you want to give it a try.
Hi Dawn, If you get a chance, please respond to my questions: what kind of maple tree do you have? Also, is all of the damage limited to a few branches, the entire tree, or just the crown of the tree? This can help me narrow this down.
Hi trottthomas, I believe you're referring to eriophyid mites, which create a mosaic effect on the leaves. There isn't anything you can do for this, but it won't damage the tree either.
I have two beautiful 10 years old sugar maples in my backyard.One of them was very slow this spring. And now leaves are wilting and falling down like in the autumn. What is happening.
I live in SanDiego. I have 3 maple trees that I pulled out of my Mom's planters in Wisconsin and decided to give them a try here. They are about 3 years old, and they are growing in pots. The leaves came out green and beautiful this year, but within a month, they started looking yellow and curling on the edges. They almost looked sunburned, so I moved them to a more shady place, but they still don't look very healthy. I'm wondering if the are missing something that they don't get from the enviroment here.
Hi Irene, If you experienced a wet spring this year, like many areas of the U.S., this may just be a temporary problem. A second set of leaves should return. If this doesn't happen, I would call your local Cooperative Extension agent to have them check the tree. Occasionally maples suffer from Verticulum wilt, and the only way to know for sure is to take a core sample from the trunk of the tree.
Another cause could be salt injury- are your trees near the road? If so, they may need amended soil to correct the pH balance (fertilizer capsules or spikes can help fix this- but follow the directions exactly to avoid "burning" the tree).
Hi Lucia, The problem could be a few things- first maple trees aren't really happy in pots- they have a far reaching root system and need to be in a permanent place in the soil. If you can find a good place for them (they do like full sun), transplant them as soon as possible. Also, maple trees in your area need to be in moist soil. They don't like being dried out.
Second, it could be a soil nutrient issue, whether they are in pots or not. Depending upon the age of these trees, I would suggest using a fertilizer specifically designed for trees- follow the directions exactly or your tree may suffer from root or leaf burn after the application. Don't use fertilizer spikes if the trees are just seedlings.
I have a "rescued" green maple and I don't know the variety as I got it from a colleague because her horses kept eating the tree down to its trunk every spring. I dug it up from her a couple of years ago and it is happy in my yard, albeit odd shaped because of its life. I just noticed several white fuzzy spots on the underneath of many branches with small grayish bugs attached to the spots. When I try to touch the bugs they jump (quickly!), Can you tell me what this is and (1) if I need to spray to eradicate it and (2) if it could spread to my precious laceleafs which I have. They are not in very close proximity to this adoptee regular type maple. Thanks for any help. I have a picture of the tree I can send if it would help.
Carla Cozzen, Charlotte, North Carolina
Hi Carla, I think you have either mealy bugs or scale (see my hub on Gardenia Problems- I have photos of these bugs in a slideshow). Yes these bugs can spread to other plants. Mealy bugs can be sprayed with a soap solution (1 tsp of liquid soap to 1 gallon of water). Scale can be treated with a horticultural oil, which can be purchased at a local nursery (sold often as Neem Oil). Both of these types of bugs can do damage quickly- so treat the tree as soon as possible.
I have 2 young red maples (2-3 yrs old). Each one has several areas on the main trunk and branches where the bark has peeled back in a thin sheet. I believe that these areas are then developing a sore spot where the edges of the exposed areas form a scab. We live in S.E. coastal Georgia so we are not exposed to your typical winter weather, but the heat is another matter.
Your help/suggestions on this issue are appreciated. Thanks
Hello, great site! I am in a desperate mode. I live in northern NY. My home is surrounded by several species of trees (Sugar Maple, White Oak, Spruce, Walnut, etc.) and it is one of the aspects I most enjoy. However, around 6 years ago, 1 of 2 Sugar Maples within 20ft of the highway started losing it's leaves early in the fall. The next spring only 3/4 of the leaves returned, the next year, the tree lost an additional 25% of it's leaves and branches started dying. Within 5 years the tree had completely become leafless and the bark from the trunk started falling off in large sections. I cut the poor tree down. The next year the other Sugar Maple within 20 ft of the road and 20ft from the dead tree began the similiar cycle. Please note that these 2 trees are underneath 13KV electric lines and the utility company once a year cut the tops off from both trees. As sugar maples, they were only allowed to grow 30ft tall because of this practice. I am desperate to save the last maple and I've noticed that 2 oak trees within 15ft have dead low branches. I never noticed any leaf issues with the maples, but simply the lack of leafs, dead branches, and then bark falling off the trunks. Any suggestions would be extremely appreciated.
In my neighborhood north of Pittsburgh Pa, the leaves on one of my maples (Red-something; so-called becuase its fall leaves are red) has branch ends dying off. On just the end, the leaves wilt, turn brown, fall off, and the wood has obviously died. This only seems to affect the branch down to the first side-shoot. I have seen other maples in the neighborhood similarly affected, and of all different types of maples. One poor Red Maple looks like a bush because all its branch tips have died and only the inner branches have leaves.
I have a maple tree in my backyard. It has grown beautifully the last few years. This year the leaves started growing and then (the tree is shaped like a Y about 3 feet above ground) one side of the tree the leaves all died. Now the other side is also. There is a split in the trunk but that's it. It has started growing from the bottom now with huge leaves. What can I do? Thank you for you help.
Hi - my name is Bette.
I live in Long Island. Do I have any hope for my maple? Last summer I had some large branches removed because of no leaf growth. The rest of the leaves fell early in the fall. This spring I saw buds, but this is July 3, and there are no leaves yet. I see another tree on the next block the same. Could it be late frost, late spring, more rain than usual? I really feel sad and miss my tree and all the shade it brings in the summer. Can anyone help me?
Hi John, I think you're describing sun scald which maple trees are very susceptible to, especially in warmer climates. Young trees can be protected from this by wrapping the trunk of the tree with paper trunk wrap from the end of October through the first week of May each year. While the scarring is unsightly right now, the proper protection coming this fall will help your tree in the future. Your trees should survive this affliction.
Hi Jon, Since you mention the close proximity to a roadway, it makes me wonder whether the trees are suffering from salt damage. I live in NY as well, and we use quite a bit of salt during the winter, particularly over the past few years with severe winters. If this is the problem, it could be remedied by using tree fertilizer spikes to bring the soil back to the proper pH levels. While I don't have a favorite fertilizer brand, most any will suffice. Just read the directions carefully so you don't "burn" the tree roots. If you don't see any improvement within 4-6 weeks, contact your local Cooperative Extension office and see if they could visit the affected trees to diagnose the problem.
Hi Ron, I'm not sure what your weather has been like, but if it has been raining there a lot, or people have been over-watering the trees, it can cause this to happen. Another cause is having the pH of the soil off balance. There isn't much you can do if it is caused by rain, but if it is from watering, cut back on this a little. As for the soil pH, use fertilizer spikes that can be purchased at just about any home and garden center, but be sure to read the directions carefully to avoid "burning" the roots.
Hi Nena, This sounds pretty serious. The split in the trunk was caused by the Y in the tree- instead of it growing a single, dominant leader it had two. The leaves and the sprouting at the bottom of the tree are called suckers. If the top half of the tree is dying or already dead, and if the tree isn't that old, it may be better to just replace it. Otherwise, you will have to just nurse it through this bad patch and remove the suckers. Do this with clean, sterilized pruning shears. Unfortunately, it will always be a weaker tree because of the original formation of the Y in the trunk.
Hi Bette, The environment isn't being very kind to our trees this year. Either there is too much rain in the northeast, or too much sun in the south. I live in NY and my maples only recently began to really leaf out over the past two weeks. If they seem to be getting leaves only on the inner branches, it could be related to too much rain in your area. If things don't improve within the next two weeks, contact a local nursery or your Cooperative Extension office in your county. They give free advice and could let you know if there is an insect or disease problem related to maples in your locale.
Your website shows more about tree problems than many other websites. But you didn't seem to mention my problem. Many maple trees in my area (Nelson, B.C.) have been getting some disease, but I don't know what. It hasn't killed anything, though it really puzzles me. This disease looks like little, raised bumps- like red acne.
Hope you can help.
Rosalyn
Thank you for your blog. I have a 3 year old Maple Tree(no idea what variety). There are currently no leaves growning on the upper section of the tree. We were horrified to discover that the tree still had the Tie-Down rope from planting it 3-4 years ago and it was dug into the bark. We cut the rope off and now the bark is peeling around the scar. We have only been in the house 2 months so I can't say how the tree looked last year. Should I wrap the trunk? Any other suggestions would be appreciated because it really want to save the tree. Thanks again!
I have a red maple tree that never developed any leaves on one side this year. The branches are not dead - they are still limber, just bare. Here is a picture: http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll83/eysterfami
The tree was planted about 2 1/2 years ago and has about a 3 1/2-4" trunk at present. It is on the east side of the house and receives full sun until about 4 PM each day. I deep water the tree at least once every 2 weeks and seasonly used fertilizer stakes (although this year I didn't get them in until May). Last year it looked great - fully leafed out. My suspicion is that the tree has entered mild shock as it roots have outgrown its original burlap-sacked rootball and found the pathetic clay that passes for soil in these parts. (The company that planted the tree simply dug a hole and plopped the rootball and tree into the hole). I suspect this because the trees (red maple, emereld maple, and ash) that I personally planted in the backyard are super healthy and growing about 4 ft per year. (I augered a 4' deep hole for each and mixed about 80 lbs manure + 80 lbs topsoil into each hole). However, I havent' had an expert look at the tree to confirm my suspicions.
Thanks, I really appreciate your help! This website is a treasure.
My Maple has leaves that are green but have that shredded look. New gowth shows well formed leaves. None of the diseases described seem to fit these observations. I'm wondering what is causing these leaves to have that torn up look. I don't see any insects.
Completely devistated at the death of a 100 year old sugar maple and others looking like they are on their way out. Small black spots are appearing randomly on the trunk and milipedes are eating them to shit. Please help before they are all gone!!!
I have a maple tree that for the past 2 years the leaves on the crown are samller and die out during the summer. Over all the tree leveas give the tree a less dense look. The tree is about 15 - 20 years old. Any ideas?
Hi Roslyn, Guessing from your description, it sounds like leaf gall. While this is an unsightly condition of the leaves, it doesn't kill the trees. The trees can be treated with a commercial fungicide, but since the entire tree (as well as its neighbors) need to be treated, it is best left to professionals- and it can be very costly for the treatment.
Hi Melissa5, It sounds as if your tree has been girdled by the rope, which may mean your tree won't make it. The description of the dead crown of the tree is what has me concerned. Of course the dead crown could be caused by other conditions and diseases. Sometimes trees can overcome girdling, but not always if the damage was done to the trunk of the tree. If your tree's crown still doesn't leaf out next spring, the tree should be replaced.
Hi Matthew, I would keep doing what you're doing in regards to using the fertilizer spikes if your soil is sub-standard. Many housing developments use fill soil that isn't really ideal for the plants they plunk down in it. My first thought was shock, the second was salt. If you live in an area where salt is used in the winter and your tree is that close to the road, you'll need to water it quite a bit to help counter-act the effects in the spring.
It isn't too late to put those fertilizer spikes in- I'd do it soon and keep up with frequent watering during August.
My sugar maple which is at least 50 years old has gone through several phases of what seems to be deterioration. The bark has peeled off and the "meat" of the tree seems to be shrinking back. Now on this exposed part of the tree I noticed what was reddish looking "fern" shaped growth. Within a day the red fungus(?0 turned black and has now spread. It is ugly and I fear for my tree. Any ideas for me?
A soft Maple tree in the parkway has a section of brown very lacy leaves which are falling off. There are a few leaves here and there with the same symptom. I don't see any bugs, but something is eating the leaves away. What to do?
Hi Sue, Was your tree injured prior to the onset of the fungus? Trees that are injured (possibly due to a cold snap this spring or caused by a lawn mower or weed whacker) will ooze honeydew which mold spores stick to. This causes a black, soot-like mold to appear, most often on the trunks on trees. This may be what you're describing. Fungicide should be applied to the affected area (available at nurseries and garden centers)to kill any fungus growing on your tree.
Hi Caryl, I believe you're describing a common problem this year- leaf tatter. It is caused when the leaf buds begin to open, then there is a late frost. This causes the leaves to develop with holes or "slices" in the leaf. This would explain why you don't see any insects on the affected leaves. Your maple will survive this temporary setback.
There is one other problem that may cause a tattered leaf appearance, that is Pear Thrips. These are insects that cause a warped, sliced appearance to leaves. I've added a photo of it to my slide-show above.
Hi JT, I believe you're describing leaf tatter, which is caused when the buds are just starting to open in the spring, then there's a cold snap/frost. This causes the leaves to develop with slices and holes in them. This is a temporary setback and won't kill your tree.
The other problem is Pear Thrips which cause a warped, sliced appearance to the leaves. I've added a photo of this problem to my slideshow above.
Hi Francine, Maple trees have a life span of about 100 years or so. I'm not surprised that if you have a stand of them, all around the same age, that they're finally dying off. What you're describing sounds like sooty-mold, which doesn't kill trees though. It is caused when the tree oozes honeydew, which makes mold/fungus grow and attracts insects. Sooty mold can be treated with a fungicide, available at most nurseries and garden centers.
If your tree has other symptoms not mentioned here, consider contacting your local Cooperative Extension office. Their Master Gardeners or tree specialists can answer your questions, based on problems that commonly arise in your particular area of the country.
Hi Gene Tuttle, There are two things that cause the situation you're describing. Salt damage, which is caused by salt trucks in the winter- then when the snow melts in the spring the trees closest to the road absorb too much of it, causing the tree to look like it is dying. This can be combated by watering more frequently and using fertilizer spikes to help return the pH balance to the tree.
The second problem is anthracnose, which can be deadly (see info section above). If you notice other trees in your area suffering the same problem, I would suspect this disease instead of salt damage. The only way to correctly diagnose this disease is to get a core sample analyzed. Call your local Cooperative Extension office for information on this kind of analysis, if you suspect this is the problem.
Leaf tatter it is...this makes sense. Thank you
Very well written hub .....
very much informative ......
Thank you very much for your great hub, for good advice, good wishes and support. Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us.
Thanks for yoursite! I have a maple (sugar) approx. 50-60 years old in my front yard. About six years ago it started to drop leaves in the latter part of June and continues through fall. The leaves are for the most part green and yellow, some are just green and small. They don't come from any specific section of the tree. Daily I can fill half a clear garbage bag and with a wind or rainstorm I can fill it! Any advice would be appreciated.
Hi Bob, There are several things that could make green leaves fall off of maple trees mid-season - scales, aphids or drought stress. If this were happening early in the season, I might guess Maple Petiole Borer (this is distinguished by darkened area near the leaf blade where it attaches to the stem).
If you suspect it is scale or aphids, I suggest trying Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub Care products. These products should be available at your local nursery or home and garden store and they're really easy to use for the home gardener.
If you've had a hot and dry temps over the past few years, your tree needs more water each week. Try watering them regularly (late in the evening) until cooler weather returns.
For the past few years the maple trees in my yard will produce leaves, but then practically all the leaves appear to get partially eaten by, what seems to be, insects, although I never see any. The trees seem to eventually produce enough leaves to survive each year. I also have a plum tree that has the same symptoms. Any thoughts?
Hi John K. RI, Several things come to mind, so I'll list them. Sometimes it is difficult without a photo. The first thing I think of when you describe this is leaf tatter. The leaves look like they've been chewed, but there are no signs of insects. This problem is caused when leaves begin to bud in the spring, but there is a frost or snowfall right after. This causes the leaves to develop a tattered and torn appearance when the leaves fully open.
The second thing is aphids, which have been pretty awful this year. By the time you notice the problem, they may already be gone. While I have a photo of these insects in my slideshow above, sometimes they are little grayish looking and very tiny. If you think this could be the problem, try using Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub care products available at nurseries and home and garden centers. They're easy to apply and are absorbed through the tree's root system.
The third thing, though less likely, is Pear Thrips. You can treat this the same way you do aphids with the Bayer products. A photo of this is also in my slideshow.
These are my best guesses- hope this solves your problem!
We have recently had a red maple transplanted in our front yard. We were told the tree has a fungas and we should remove all the leaves from around the tree before spring to keep it from returning. There are small holes in leaves, I'm assuming it's anthracnose. Is there anything else we can do to keep it from returning. The trunk is 3" diam. Thank you
I have a maple tree that has done absolutely fine for almost 5 years. However, this year only a few branches leafed out and there is a new branch (or plant) that has shot out of the trunk near the bottom. This new branch/plant has huge dark green leaves that almost look like maple leaves, but they are huge (like 8-10 inches across). It is really looking bad. Any idea what this might be? I'm in Wisconsin, if that helps. Thanks.
Hi,
I have two Norway maples that look like they have either anthracnose or verticillium wilt. I've checked a couple branches, but none seem to have the dark inner streaking of verticillium. Is there any other way to tell the two diseases apart?
I have a laceleaf Japanese maple. I have just noticed the tips of the leaves appear white. I don't know what is causing this problem. I have other laceleaf's in a different part of my garden and they don't display this white color on the edges of the leaf. What do you think the proble could be. The tree gets plenty of sun, and sits right in the middle of a japanese garden that I have created. Have looked elsewhere to see what it might be. thanks for any advice you can give.
Ann says:
6 months ago
75% of the leaves on my 30 year old Japanese maple did not come out this year. Do you think it is because we had an early heat spell and they started to come out but then died? Will they come back next year. I think the same thing happened to my Eastern Redbud last year and the affected branch bloomed and had leaves this year so I'm hoping...