The Ash Creek Wildlife Area is among the most remote, least improved and most pristine of all the California Department of Fish and Game wildlife areas according to the experts. No interpretive trails, visitors' centers or other amenities await the earnest wildlife watcher. There are no formal hiking trails, but the terrain is flat and hiking is allowed anywhere outside of Big Swamp, which is closed so that wildlife is undisturbed. One of two short roads lead to a parking lot at the historic Wayman Barn. This key viewing area is an excellent location for watching the threatened sandhill crane, which comes to Ash Creek to nest in the spring and stays through mid October. A total of six threatened or endangered bird species can be found during different seasons.

Accommodations are available from primitive campsites to the luxury of a beautiful Jess Valley bed and breakfast. In Surprise Valley east of the Warner Mountains, you have the choice of stabling at the Cockrell's High Desert Guest Ranch, where you and your family can enjoy the privacy of a three bedroom fully equipped home; or make arrangements to put your horse up at the Modoc County Fairgrounds, while you stay at one of Cedarville's fine motels or B&B's. If you come to the area at the right time, you might even find yourself in the middle of a cattle drive right through the town of Cedarville, or down the highway from Jess Valley to the town of Likely.

In 1992, Goose Lake dried up completely killing all the fish species that resided there, including the red-band trout. In 1997, spawning runs of this species where observed in several tributary streams in California and Oregon. Where did these large, one to two pound, 24 inch plus, trout come from if the lake was dry just five years prior? It was discovered that the tributary streams provided "refugial" habitat for the redband trout and other species including Goose Lake sucker, Goose Lake tui chub and Goose Lake lamprey which also inhabit Goose Lake. Over time these fish repopulated the lake. This has happened before in 1851-1852, 1926 and 1929-1934. Currently Goose Lake is at overflow stage.

Along the Surprise Valley / Barrel Springs National Back Country Byway, you will see clear evidence of our continent pulling apart. You can stand on the beach of a prehistoric lake where people hunted Ice Age animals and search for fossils and prehistoric art. You will travel through quiet Surprise Valley communities nestled in the foothills of the Warner Mountains on the west side of the valley, and cross the juniper highlands in the east. Your tour will follow the 1849 route through 49 Pass in Nevada, and Fandango Pass in California, that was the principal trail for the pioneers coming to California in search of gold. Before starting the 93 mile byway tour stop at the Bureau of Land Management office in Cedarville and pick up the 32 page booklet detailing sights along the byway.

The rides are exceptionally scenic rather than technical. The five and a half mile Highgrade National Recreation Trail runs over the saddle on the west side of 8,250 foot high Mt. Vida in the northern Warner Mountains. Pass through forest lands as well as sagebrush. Camp at Cave Lake Campground, or just stop for a picnic at Lily Lake. Watch for historic mining cabins and ruins dating from the Highgrade gold rush. Two more excellent rides for experienced mountain bikers are the five mile Warner Mountain Ride and the Crane Mountain System starting from the Deep Creek Campground.

Wild horses still race across the remote Devil's Garden Plateau in Modoc County. The horse population, which is maintained at between 285 and 305 is protected by the Wild Horse and Burro Act of 1971. Each year an average of 60 animals less than five years of age are removed from the herd and relocated to Litchfield, California where they are processed and entered into an adoption program. These feral domestic horses are thought to be ancestors of horses who escaped from settlers, or were released when their usefulness had ended. They also might have escaped during the Indian Wars. Until 1971, they were viewed as unclaimed trespass domestic livestock, and were routinely rounded up in huge numbers. In 1980, the Devil's Garden Plateau Wild Horse Management Plan was completed, and 236,000 acres of public lands were set aside for the herd.

Called "The Smiles of God" by Native Americans who originally inhabited the area, Modoc County has preserved the history of its first residents in museums and monuments. The Modoc County Historical Museum in Alturas contains an extensive collection of Pit River, Modoc and Paiute artifacts. Displays depict everyday life and rituals from prehistoric times through the era of the Modoc Wars 125 years ago. The site of the tragic standoff between the U.S. Army and a small band of Modoc Indians and their leader, Captain Jack, is now part of the Lava Beds National Monument. Visitors can take a self-guided interpretive tour through the lava outcropping known as Captain Jack's Stronghold. A walk through the warren of trails, caves and protected lookouts makes it more understandable how for 5 months, 52 Modoc warriors were able to hold off a troop of 1,000 U.S. Army soldiers.

June is the best time to view northern goshawk nestlings in Modoc County near Everly Reservoir. But take care, mother goshawk can be very aggressive in protecting their hatchlings. It is best not to come into the nesting area early in May when females are laying and incubating eggs, as goshawks have been known to abandon their nests if disturbed during this time. Although rare, goshawks are seen annually during the winter months in the Modoc National Wildlife Refuge south of Alturas.

The Modoc National Wildlife Refuge south of Alturas offers a rare opportunity to view a huge variety of wildlife and waterfowl. The 7,018 acre refuge is a temporary resting place for migratory birds of the Pacific Flyway, with 76 species regularly nesting in the refuge. Spring and Fall are the best time for avid birdwatchers when a total of 246 bird species have been observed on the refuge, including 40 accidentals. An excellent guide to the birds and mammals seen on the refuge is available at the headquarters. Birdwatchers are encouraged to report their findings to the refuge manager. Herds of pronghorn antelope numbering up to 1,000 can be seen grazing, particularly in the fall and winter. The refuge is a multi-use area, with permitted hunting of certain species, water recreation at Dorris Reservoir northeast of the main refuge, and commercial camping nearby. The town of Alturas nearby has lodging and a number of excellent restaurants for visiting birdwatchers who prefer not to rough it.

If you take Highway 299 over the Warner Mountains you will come to the place where the pavement ends and the West begins, according to Surprise Valley residents. The tiny towns of Ft. Bidwell, Cedarville, Lake City and Eagleville sprung up during the western migration in the late 1800's. A visit to the area is like stepping back in time. A self-guided tour of Surprise Valley historic buildings is included in the publication, "Historical Buildings and Homes of Modoc County." Among the buildings featured is the former Surprise Valley Drug on Main Street in Cedarville circa 1890. The Ft. Bidwell Hotel circa 1906 was originally a 40 room establishment which served as a boarding house for miners. The Lake City Flour Mill, School and Swiss Dairy are also listed on the tour. Recently, area residents worked to collect and restore many antique carriages and wagons left abandoned on ranches and landholdings.