My Leopard Gecko Quit Eating
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Leopard Gecko Diet
Leopard Geckos are one of the best beginner reptiles that you can find. They're a smaller reptile that takes up less room. They come in bright colors, and have a fairly simple habitat and husbandry requirement.
For the most part if you are caring for a gecko properly, you should not have any problems with it's diet or it eating, but there are exceptions to that. Just make sure that you do know how to properly care for a leopard gecko to prevent health concerns and mishap.
Make sure that you know the proper diet for a leopard gecko before you start to panic about it not eating. Maybe you're just not feeding it the right diet. Leopard geckos are insectivores , meaning they eat insects. Don't feed insects from your backyard, make sure to buy insects from an online source, pet store, or even bait shop.
A good staple diet for a leopard gecko can consists of crickets, mealworms, or silkworms. All are nutritious feeders that leopard geckos will readily take. You may also want to consider small discoid roaches as a good staple. Waxworms and butterworms are good treats, but should never be fed on a regular basis to prevent reptile obesity. Phoenix worms are a good alternative, but remember that they are pricey, so I'd recommend just keeping them as healthy treats.
Now, if your leopard gecko quits eating, you really don't need to worry unless it's loosing weight. It's not uncommon for leopard geckos to skip a meal every now an then, so unless you see weight loss, don't panic just yet.
Now, that being said, if you are having problems getting your leopard gecko to eat, there are many reasons and solutions.
Reasons a Leopard Gecko Stops Eating
When you start to notice that the tail shows signs that it is losing mass, you then need to figure out what's wrong. There can be a number of reasons that the gecko has stopped eating enough to begin to lose tail mass.
- First you should check the temperatures in the enclosure to make sure that they are the right degree. The hot side needs to be between 90 and 92F. Measure the temperatures in the enclosure with a digital thermometer with a probe. The stick on thermometers are NOT accurate byb any means, and that includes if you place it on the floor of the tank.
- Consider what substrate you're housing the gecko on. Loose substrates such as play sand, calci-sand, vita-sand, silica sand, wood chips, bark, potting soil, gravel, curshed corn cob, walnut shells, or any other substrate that is sold in a bag that you could find at a hardware store. Loose substrates can cause impaction, which is potentiall fatal.
- Are you housing multiple geckos together? If so, the larger gecko may be bullying or stressing out the smaller gecko. This can occur in geckos of the same age and nearly the same size- one will always be just a little bigger than another. Remember just because you don't see it, doesn't mean it doesn't happen. Leopard geckos are nocturnal, meaning most of their activity occurs at night, while you sleep.
- Have you recently changed the geckos enclosure, added
- decorations, removed decorations, rearranged your room, moved the leopard gecko's cage, or anything that would involve changing the environment in or around the leopard geckos enclosure? If so, this could cause the gecko to stop eating for a few days to a week or so, depending on the gecko and the amount of change. Change doesn't affect all geckos, but it does affect some.
- Is the gecko new to you home? New geckos may not eat for a few days, up to a week due to stress of changing environments.
- What was the gecko being fed prior to you bringing it home? If you change what the gecko is used to, it might not take to the new feeder too well.
- Where did you purchase the gecko? The most common and most convienent place to buy reptiles is the pet store, but this isn't always the best place. Pet stores commonly have ill reptiles that either suffer from parasites, bacteria, and fungus. Many times reptiles at pet stores are housed on sand or othe loose substrates, which means that the gecko could come home with impaction for you to deal with. Many reptiles at pet stores are housed inappropriately, such as too many reptiles in one enclosure, multiple males in an enclosure, sick reptiles with healthy reptiles, inaccurate temperatures, and multiple species in an enclosure. All of these things can contribute to illness.
Reptile Vets
- Melissa Kaplan: Herp Veterinarians
Melissa Kaplan of Anapsid has composed this wodnerful list of reptile and amphibian veterinarians by state. - Herp Vet Connection
This is a list of reptile veterinarians all submitted by users of the site. Not all vets may be the best choice, but it is a start to finding a vet in your state and hopefuly area.
Possible Solutions to Getting Your Geck to Eat
If you've deducedthe problem, then go ahead and fix it ASAP.
If you're temperatures are 90 to 92F on the hot side, then that's not the problem. No sand ever- no sand impaction. Gecko you've had for months nad is housed alone. Ok... So, here we start.
You ant to first rule out parasites or any other underlying health concerns, so take a trip to the vet. Your average cat and dog vet isn't going to be able to help you, so make sure to have a vet who specializes in reptiles. If the vet finds that internal parasites is the culprit, he will prescribe medicine to rid the gecko of its parasites.
If the gecko still refuses to eat, you can try a different food item. I have had leopard geckos eat mealworms for as far as I could remember and sudden stop eating. Have no parasites or worms. But drastically loosing weight. I decided one day to throw in a few crickets in the enclosure, and they were quickly eaten. To this day, the two leopard geckos eta crickets versus the mealworms that had always been on. I don't know what caused the change in taste buds, but something did. It could be as simple as that. Try changing to a different feeder insect.
If that doesn't work, you may need to try a special leopard gecko diet. This is a formulated slushy concoction, created to help leopard geckos gain weight and get the proteins and vitamins that they're not getting by not eating. This is not a quick fix or a solution. The slushy mix, created by Marcia at Golden Gat Geckos, is only to help provide essential vitamins, minerals, and proteins to your gecko. You still need to find the problem so that you can decide the proper solutin. The slushy mix will hopefully buy you some time to figure out the problem.
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Leopard Gecko Slushy Mix
I have used the slushy mixture and successfully gotten leopard geckos eating on their own again. It took some time and work to do so, but they've been eating on their own since.
To make the slushy you need:
- 1 small can of Hill's a/d pet food (available at most vet's)
- 1/4-1/3 cup of Ensure (any flavor but chocolate. I prefer vanilla for my geckos)
- 1 jar of squash baby food
- 1/4-1/3 cup pedialyte
- 2 tablets of milk thistle (herbal supplement, liver purifier, found at drug stores)
- 1/2 tsp calcium powder
- 1/2 tsp vitamin powder
- 1 large handful of mealworms (I've also used crickets)
Directions:
- Blend ALL ingredients in a blender or food processor, slowly adding the mealworms as you blend
- Puree all ingredients until completely smooth
- Pour into ice trays and freeze
- Store the cubes in ziplock bags
When you use a cube, thaw it out in a small container, this is where the empty baby food containers come in handy. Use a small eye dropper, filling it full, put a drop at a time on the gecko's nose, letting him lick it.
What I did when it came to feeding the slushy was feed the gecko one eye dropper twice a day to start. After a few days to a week decrease it to once a day. I'd continue once a day, a fully eye dropper of slushy mix, for a bout a week or so more. Then stop giving it anymore. I would wait a day or two, the gecko not being provided food, and then attempt to give the gecko either crickets or mealworms, whichever it was used to eating. Usually, this method was successful, as the gecko had been used to eating daily then going without food for a few days, made it hungry enough to eat on its own.
If you decide to try another feeder insect or the slushy mix first. And the gecko isn't gaining any weight, you should DEFINATELY pay a visit to the vet before something happens to the gecko.
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Leopard Gecko Information
- Caring for Leopard Geckos
How to properly care for leopard geckos. - Breeding Leopard Geckos
Guide to breeding leopard geckos. - Leopard Gecko Morphs
Find a semi-complete guide to leopard gecko morphs. - Best Beginner Reptiles
What are the best beginner reptiles for you? - Best Leopard Gecko Care Books
Finds my choice leopard gecko reference books. - Native Habitat of the Leopard Gecko & Setting up a Natural Enclosure
Natural Enclosure and Native Habitat - How to Set Up a Leopard Gecko Enclosure
Find tips to setting up your leopard gecko enclosure the right way.
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Comments
It's actually quite common for new reptiles to not eat for a few days when you bring them home. Changing the environment stresses out younger leopard geckos, much less other reptiles. I would give it a few more days. You may want to even try small crickets. Make sure get crickets that are size appropriate, no larger than the space between the eyes. Keep watch on the lil guy, and if he continues not to eat, and begins loosing weight, you should gave any fecal matter you have, and make a trip to the vet.
But, in general there are many contributers that may cause a leopard gecko to not eat- temperatures, substrate, etc.
My gecko's tail fell off, and it won't eat. do you have to forcefeed slushie, or do they eat it on their own? There is also a cut on his side.
I would not try force feeding unless you are worried about the gecko's weight. Since he has lost his tail, you can't judge his tail mass as his weight loss. You're going to have to watch his body mass. Since he has lost his tail, you should put him on paper towels, if he's not already. This will prevent any loose substrates from infecting the wound. Make sure that his temps are correct. He may be a little stressed having lost his tail. Give him a few weeks and see what happens. You may want to consider a different insect. I.E. if he's used to crickets try mealworms, or vice versa.
my leopard gecko is not eating i just got him yesterday and all the crikets i oput in there are hideing is that the problem that he cant find the crikets???
It is normal for a gecko to not eat for a few days after you bring it home. So that's normal. You don't want to leave the crickets in there, as they can cause harm to the gecko. Take them out after 20 minutes or so. And try again at another time.
But, the gecko isn't eating as it's adjusting to its new environment. Try not to play with it or handle it for a few days.
i already put the crikets in there and i cant get them out but mine is a female and is it okay to leave a little dish of calicum for her and she is also not drinking
also i think when i got my gecko after i brought him home that his tail has been regenerated how can you tell??? i also meesed with him a little bit is that bad ???
You really should try to get the crickets out of the enclosure.
It's best to leave a small dish of calcium in the enclosure at all times, so yes please do that.
She may be drinking, as they are nocturnal reptiles, you're probably sleeping when she's most active. While she's most active is when she'll be prone to drinking.
If the tail is in a bulb shape, it's more than likely regenerated. The picture of the leopard gecko above, has her original tail.
It's not bad to "mess" with him, but do it at a MINIMUM for a few days.
I thought you said that it was a female?
it is i keep getting messed up so how do u "train" them and i have tried to get them out but i cant sorry but what shoulod i do now i tryied but i cant???
and what would the crkikets do to her ?????
You can't "train" a reptile. If you mean how can you socialize them, making them more docile and handlable? You can let it adjust to it's new home for a few days. After that, let the gecko get used to you by putting your hand in the tank. Once the gecko gets to the point where it won't run, you can try to pick it up, only holding it for a minute. It's best to keep your hand over the tank a few inches off the ground for the first few times, as it will more than likely try to get away from you. Once the gecko is comfortable in your hands for a few minutes, you can pull away from the tank and hold it elsewhere, preferrably while you are sitting. It's not best to walk around with them, as they can jump and get hurt. Eventually, with time and patience, the gecko will become more docile.
Crickets left in the tank will nibble on the gecko. If too many are in there uneaten over too long, they can create sores on the gecko's body. If the sores get infected you will need a vet for antibiotics and such. When I used to use crickets, I never chanced it.
will she be laying eggs even thought she is not breed like a chiken lays extra eggs
thank you!!!!!!!!! and also the allways stay hidden and the never come out so and do i need an item in the basking area were they can bask and since they are nocturnal will i know if they eat if they are in the basking area when the light is on ???
Because they are nocturnal, you do not need a basking site. An under tank heater is NECCESSARY for belly heat, which aids in digestion. This is how they get their heat, versus a clamp light. I do not use any light sources with my geckos; I use solely undertank heaters and heat tape. Make sure that you can properly gauge the temperatures with a digital thermometer with a probe, as under tank heaters can get too hot, or if you have one that is small, it may not put off enough heat.
When you put crickets in the tank, you should leave them in the tank for 20 minutes, and you should remove the uneaten crickets after that. When you drop in the dusted crickets, the gecko will come out of hiding once it realizes that they're in the enclosure.
May I ask what substrate you're housing the gecko on?
Kevin: In most cases females won't lay eggs unless they've been bred, but they can retain sperm, so if she has been bred within the past year, she can lay eggs. But, there are some females that will lay eggs although they have not been fertilized. I have never had a female lay eggs unless she has been placed with a male.
yes u may i use eco earth it is coco nut shavings
also i dont think my under tank heater is getting hot enough it is about a 17 watt and i think my substrate is 2 thick
and u know how you said that the dusted crikets that the gecko will come out of hideing well my did not or is that after they are not stressed out???
Ok... Well, the substrate could be your problem... You need to get the gecko off loose substrate as soon as possible! Plus using eco earth creates a higher humidity the leopard geckos DO NOT need. Humidity levels that are too high can cause upper respiratory infections. Also, loose substrates can cause impaction, which is fatal, if not caught early enough. One sign of impaction is loss of appetite. If the gecko was housed on this or another loose substrate before you got it, impaction can be a concern.
You may want to check out http://hubpages.com/_reptilehelp/hub/Impaction.
What brand and size is the UTH, and what size aquarium do you have the gecko in.
You should really invest in a digital thermometer with a probe; it will run you no more than $10 for the cheaper ones. But they will really help you watch the temperatures. Improper temperatures can also contribute to lack of appetite.
i just got him yesterday and i think he is stressed out a little bit so thanks anyways
He may be stressed. I would definately say that one, but DEFINATELY remove him from the loose substrate.
well i have friends that have leopard geckos on loose substrate like eco earth and they are just fine
I haven't seen any leopard geckos; we have ordinary ones running about the house almost all the time. They are not official pets; they subsist by eating flies and other insects, and sometimes rice leftovers. But now, our kitten's chasing them all away.
Do leopard geckos also make that funny tsk tsk sound?
Kevin, it's unsafe. And no experiences reptile hobbiest will suggest you use loose substrates. It's just not safe. Playsand and calci-sand are often suggested for leopard geckos, and of the two if you must use a loose substrate use playsand, as the calci-sand is NOT digestable, it clumps. Impaction is fatal. Eco earth and other dirt, coconut, wood beddings raise the humidity which over time WILL cause respiratory concerns. I would NEVER risk it, so that's your choice...
Kenny: They really don't make much noise. Younger leopard geckos will make a hissing sound when you upset them.
thanks any ways well um............ she is eating and drinking cause the crikets i could not get out i left them in there and she ate them cause there is only 2 left
okay i switched out the substrate and what are the signs of shedding and that she is eating and drinking
P.S. my friends are all zoo ologiast
That's good that she's eating. The substrate really can be a concern if left on loose substrates for prolonged periods. Less that a year on sand, my oldest leopard gecko started showing signs of impaction. A week after being on reptile carpet, she was fine. I really hope that you did change to paper towels, reptile carpet, slate, or roll out tile. I hope your friend does too.
A zoologist should know not to house leopard geckos on loose substrates, especially earthen ones, as it will raise humidity. And rememeber, although they are desert animals, their natural habitat is NOT sand, it's hard rock.
The only reason I asked about substrate to begin with was to see if that could be a concern with the gecko not eating besides she was just moved to a new enclosure. Just watch the temps and substrate and you should be fine. Improper temps can cause lack of appetite, too.
what kind of sand should i use????? and were can i get it???????
You should NOT use sand! As I mentioned in my last post it can cause impaction, just like all other loose substrates. Leopard geckos do not live on sand in the wild, as their native habitat is of compacted rocks. It is too risky to use any loose substrate. You should NEVER use loose substrates on youger geckos under one year old; any thing older can be housed on playsand with GREAT CAUTION! I would beg you to please look at the impaction article that I provided in earlier comments. There is a necropsy of a leopard gecko that was impacted from sand.
If you MUST use sand, NEVER use calcium based sand; it is NOT digestable; use regular playsand, as it is very fine grained.
then what should i use???
aND the connection does not work
It's best to house reptiles on solid surface, such as paper towels, reptile carpet, slate tiles, or roll out shelf liner. I prefer paper towels, as I have so many and it's easier to clean.
Try: http://hubpages.com/_reptilehelp/hub/Impaction
were do i get the carpet,the tiles and the shelf liner????????/
Reptile carpet can be purchased from most petstores.
Tiles and shelf liner from a store like Lowes, Home Depot, or a home restoration store. Sometimes tile business will sell you slightly bruised tiles for cheap bc most homeowners won't want them in their homes.
so like tile tile the tile on tile floors??? and how can i use shelf liner
and if i get tile how should i cure it and wont they be un conmfortable on th tile and wont it get to hot??? the tile cause it asorbs so much heat???
You don't cure it. You just place it in the tank. Each piece may not sync up exactly, but by just placing each piece into the tank without attaching them together, makes for easier removal for cleaning.
Tile is actually the best substrate for a reptile enclosure because it absorbs the heat and gives the reptile the proper belly heat that it needs to digest its food properly.
You will need to purchase a digital thermometer with a probe to help regulate the temperatures. With any substrate, I always reccommend having them. The probe sits on the floor of the tank, and reads the most accurate temperatures, as these are the temps that your gecko will be feeling most. If the temps are too high, you will need to either lower the watt on the clamp light, as for the most part the lights only heat the air temps anyway. Or you can purchase a thermostat. Depending on the size of your tank and the size of the UTH that you purchased, you may be able to buy a smaller UTH if the temps continue to stay high. You want to have an average temperature of 90F on the hot side.
my leapard gecko won't eat anymore.its been going on for almost 4 weeks..idk if he is depressd but he has lost lots of weight and we tried force fedding him but he spit it back up...i would like to know what temp. he should be living in...if you could plz help me
Reptiles don't necessarily get depressed... What are the temps in your enclosure? As it's getting colder, low temps can cause a reptile to stop eating. Leopard geckos need to have a high temperature of 90F on the surface of the hot side of the tank. (May I ask how much research you did before getting one?) I wouldn't forcefeed unless it's your LAST resort, as it puts a ton of stress on the reptile. I'd take a fecal sample and the reptile to a reptile vet and rule out any parasites. How long have you had him?
Check out my article about caring for leopard geckos if you need more information about how to provide the proper husbandry:
If he is regurgitating take him to the vet if you want it to live it is worth your money. He could have cryptosporidium, if so he probably will die. If you have any other leopard geckos you should keep them seperate and always take care of the sick one last so as not to infect the others.
Mark he's regurgitating when she force feeds. Crypto is serious, and fatal, but I think she has other problems. I do agree that a vet check up may be necessary, especially if she has proper husbandry, but she herself is unknown of proper husbandry.
hey i have a quick ? what should i put at the bottem of a shed box and in the tank what should the humitity be???? and i need to put things in the bottem of the shed box that i can find aroyund the house????? HELP cause she is shedding write now!
Try moist paper towels. The humidity will be fine as longs as the humid hide is enclosed on all sides with one access hole. Place it on the warm side of the enclosure.
hey thak you and do sell and breed reptiles or do you just have them for the fun of it asnd when you say warm side do you mean were the light is???? or the heating pad because i have know more room over on the heating pad side
and i have something i can use but does it have to be as long as them and can it be clear???
You should have the light and heating pad on the same side, which will create the warm side. The humid hide can be clear. And it should be the same size as a normal hide that your would use, give or take a little. I prefer to use glad tupperwar containers. I use 3 different sizes: 18 oz, 48 oz, and 64 oz, depending on the age of the gecko and whether or not it is a gravid female or such...
I have some reptile that I keep as merely pets, but others that I breed. I have more breeding reptiles, than pets. I breed leopard geckos, african fat tails, crested geckos, and gargoyle geckos. I'll be getting into other reptile species in the near future.
is it fun breeding??? and do you breed bearded dragons
Breeding is a lot of hard work. I've spent much more than I've earned. It will take me at least another year to even break even (excluding any money spent on feeders and supplies; to include those costs, add another year). And, that's only if the season is a pleasant to me as I hope. As the reptile trade is ever changing and growing the price of reptiles tends to decrease more than it increases, so selling prices tend to be much lower than purchasing ones.
No, although I have 2 bearded dragons, I have never bred them. Breeding bearded dragons is much more costly than geckos, as they have more babies and a more complex diet.
thank you and i was wondering if you would let me by some if you do ever breed them and are your bearded dragons mean or nice???
P.S.= is itg normal for a leopard gecko 2 turn white when shedding
I have one bearded dragon who has suffered MBD since a few months after I got her. I've tried everything, but it seems that she may have had improper breeding and poor genetics, as nothing has seemed to help her. The other one is very docile, but a little aggressive when she goes outside.
Yes, it is normal for them to turn white when in shed. Sometimes with lighter colored leopard geckos, they will just fade a little. I have some blazing blizzards, that are already solid white, that just seem to gloss over.
thank you!!!!! and did you get your beared dragon when it was a baby or full grown and if you dont mind me asking how much did you pay for it>????
They were 6 and 8 weeks old. I believe I answered this question on another hub that you asked it one. One was 85 and the other a little over 100.
o i am sorry and i was wonder ing if i could be aBle to take a 55 gallon aquriam and put a divder in the middle for 2 leos?????
Theoretically you can, but the dividers really don't hold well. I've used them before, and although leopard geckos are terrestrial, it doesn't mean they don't climb. I've had a leopard gecko use the small holes in the dividers to put her claws in and climb right up. And, usually, there is a gap at the top where the divider tends to not completely reach the top of the encloure. The leopard gecko that I had would be found on the other side of the divider at least once or twice a day.
o sorry i meant to be more specific my tank cam with a place to be a divider and it is glass so it is not like screnning
I wasn't thinking screen. Most tank dividers are plastic. Usually, they have small holes in them, as they tend to be used for breeder fish tanks. There isn't a true reptile divider.
mine are just sheets of glass and what tempeture should i incubate the eggs in, what do the babys eat,what substrate should i use can i use tile?, can i keep them in a glass tank, what material should i incubat the eggs in,how often should i mist the eggs,do i need a basking/heatpad if not what should i use,and can i keep them all togather??
P.S.=sorry for the long list
As leopard geckos are temperature determined sex. It depends on what sex you want the leopard gecko to be. for females 80-83F and males 87-90F. You need a hovabaotre incubator. Or you will need to purchase a styrofoam cooler, heat tape, wiring supplies, and a thermostat. Otherwise, the eggs won't hatch. The temps will fluctuate too much. Use perlite, vermiculite, or Hatch-rite as a hatching medium. You won't really need to mist if you have the water:medium ratio accurate. You will just need to watch the humidity within the deli cups. You may have to mist around the eggs, once a week or so. I really suggest you doing more research before breeding. Breeding takes a lot of money to do even on a small scale. You must make sure you have housing for the hatchlings, as well as permanent homes, food, etc. They eat the same thing adult leopard geckos eat just on a smaller scale. Do more research....
Here's a hub about breeding leopard geckos:http://hubpages.com/_reptiles/hub/Breeding_Leopard
hey um........................... when are leopard geckos ready to eat pinkys???????
Pinkies are actually very fatty, and most breeders do not feed them to geckos anymore. Even for snakes, I know several breeders that overfeed pinkies to hatchlings in order to quickly get them large enough for hoppers and fuzzies. If you are wanting to boost your gecko's weight, try silkworms, butterworms (in small amounts as although high in calcium they're also high in fats), and phoenix worms. I have posts about all three of these.
http://hubpages.com/_reptiles/hub/Silkworms
http://hubpages.com/_reptiles/hub/Butterworms
http://hubpages.com/_reptiles/hub/Phenix_Worms
My Gecko is impacted and is near death. He has been holding on for almost two months with this problem. He is skin and bones except for his belly. The vet did not give me much hope. Is there anything I can do?
At this point probably not. You can try olive oil, at this point it probably won't move the impaction. Definately never house leopard geckos on sand, as this is the result. And never feed insects larger than the width between the eyes, another cause but less likely source.
You may want to check out my Impaction Hub:
hey its me and i have a qustion.... for a shed box i put in perlite and she semmed to be eating it i took it out and how do i no if she is inpacted????
For impaction, I posted a link in the above comment. You can check that out. Watch her eating habits and fecal matter. You can use a dampened paper towels or a small piece of a towel for the humid hide if she's eating the perlite.
i have a baby leo and last night i cleaned out his cage. he used to have the coco dirt stuff and i changed it to newspaper. is newspaper a better thing to use? i have also noticed that isn't eating very much and i am going to try that slushy mix to see if he will gain any weight.
when you have a baby leopard gecko how can you determine the sex of it? can you?
Newspaper is much better than coco dirt mix, but because of the ink in the newsprint, you may want to consider paper towels. I would give it some time before you try the slushy mix. Force feeding will stress out the baby, and it should be your last resort. What are you feeding it? Make sure that it is size appropriate- no larger then the width between the eyes.
You cannot successfully sex a leopard gecko until they're about 6 months old. Check out this link:http://hubpages.com/_reptiles/hub/Breeding_Leopard There is a picture of both a male and a female leopard gecko.
What would you suggest that I use for substrate for my leopard geckoss cage?and I have read one of your articles and it said thaty you can use paper towel? How much are you supposed to use?And what is the best size of cage for a leopard gecko? Sorry for the list
Paper towels are great for leopard geckos and all pet reptiles, as it prevents impaction and is easy to clean up. All you need is one layer. Since, leopard geckos tend to use the bathroom in one place, you can remove that one paper towel once a week, and all of them twice a month, give or take. I would recommend the adjustible sized paper towels, since you can get them in half and quarter sizes. Makes tearing easy.
Minimum for a leopard gecko is a 10 gallon tank, but a 20 gallon long, is preferred.
Check out my caresheet:http://hubpages.com/_reptiles/hub/Caring_For_Leopa
and also, my leopard gecko is not eating..I have cheaked her temperature and it is right. turn her heal light off at night and keep the heating pad on.I am trying your slushy mix but she doesn't seem to like it. I am worried and no one in my city deals with reptiles. I lloked under belly and there is something white.. She has lost a lot of weight. Is there anything I can do to help her
Has she been on a loose substrate? Is the belly pink at all? You say that she's loosing weight, is this in her tail as well? How old is she? How long have you had her? What are the temps?
I have had her since may or april. She was healthy until like 2-1 weeks ago. Her tail is really thin and her spine is showing. In the day the temp is around 75-80 and in the night 75-70. I think she is around 4-5 months. The belly is not pink. and until i read your artical she has been on wood bedding. I put calicum (liquid) in her water. I ffed her crickets or meal worms. And she has shedded recently and she can't get the skin off her toes. I have tried putting them in water and then rubbing it off, putting her in warm water and using twezzers and putting her in water then using a wet q-tip. I am confused, i was taking really good care of her. And she also isn't drinking any water.. I need some help..please help me! (and when i go away to visit my dad my i leave a list for my mom and she takes care of her..I know becasue i phone her every day when i am gone)
Your temps are WAY off. They need to be 90F on the hot side during the day, at night, the temps can drop to the 70s. But anything under 85F during the day is detrimental to the health. You really need to up the watt on the light bulb or get a larger UTH.
The shedding problem could be due to not having a humid hide and poor husbandry.
It sounds like she has been ill, as they do not all of a sudden drop weight as it sounds like yours has. You need to find a vet near you. It could be parasites or impaction. You may be stressing the gecko out more than necessary if you're forcefedding the slushy mix, as that is a last resort. But, if you spine is showing, you need to continue the slushy mix.
Try reading my hub about impaction, and following those steps. But, it's not guaranteed.
http://hubpages.com/_reptilehelp/hub/Impaction
Purchase a digital thermometer with a probe. The probe will read the temperatures on the surface, which are those that are essential to the gecko. If you have a stick on thermometer, that only reads air temps and the temperature of the glass.
Where would you purchase a digital thermometer with a probe? What can i do to take the shedding off her toes to prevent her from loosing the toes? and the nearest vet that know how to deal with reptiles are in salmon arm. which is 4 hours away. Would it be ok if I took her to a normal vet? and what would they do to her..she is so small. and also I stood up this one time and she was in my hand, she jumped and fell off. I think her arm is broken because she can't use it. I really dont think there is anything I can do for her arm.. But are there any other suggestions that might make her get bank on track?
oh, and there is a white thing in her belly when i lloked at her belly. Is that impaction?
You can get a digital thermometer with a probe at a petstore, usually the cheaper ones are in the fish department. I'll post a link for a few on ebay here, those are usually cheaper.
Soak her feet in warm water for a few minutes and gently rub the dead skin off her toes. Add a humid hide to the enclosure to assist with other sheds.
Normal vets are iffy, as they tend not toknow the details neccessary to help reptiles. Plus, most normal vets do not see anything except dogs and cats; you would need to call before-hand and tell them the situation. I know the best reptiles vets in my area, are also, normal vets, seeing cats and dogs. You may want to just place phone calls.
There may not be any help for her arm, but only a vet could determine that. Geckos in captivity can survive with 3 legs.
I don't think that the white spot is impaction, But, I wouldn't rule that out. If her stomach is hard, then impaction is more likely the case. But, again, if you purchased her at a petstore, you can't rule out parasites.
I did buy her at a pet sotre.. And also her stomach is more squishy then it was before. A humid hide is a shedding box, right? Or is it something else? Now, how would I put one of those in her cage? What should I use? I have heard moss from eco earth or from a place where they sell plants. And, does paper towel keep her warm enough at night? amd she isn't really pooping either
Humid hide is the same thing as a shedding box. You can use a glad tuperware container and fill it with moss, if you want to. Because she's already having problems I'd suggest paper towels or a small sliver of a towel. You can dampen it when she's in shed, and let it dry out when she's not. She's not pooping because she's not eating. If you continue the slushy mix, she'll poop but it will be very liquidy, as there's really no solid substance to it. I would see a vet as soon as you can, but continue the slushy mix at least twice a day- a little bit at a time. If you overfeed all at once, she's likely to throw it up.
Is it normal for her to turn a dark color well not like a different color but darkerÉ So i should put 1 layer of paper towl on the bottomÉ Well ok, but how does it keep her warmÉ
They will change colors with mood at times. Stressed geckos tend to be much darker than their normal color. Also, they will darken when they are trying to get more heat. Darker things attract heat (similar to black cars getting hotter than white cars under the sun for the same time period).
The paper towels won't keep her warm the Under tank heater will. Leave that on 24/7. Lights can be on during the day and off at night.
why do you think my baby leo isn't eating that i know of? And how old do leos have to be around to be able to eat the slushy supplement?
right now i am feeding him small crickets and sometimes i feed him mealworms. do you think i should feed him mealworms daily?? or should i stay with the same diet?? i had another leo and he was about 7-8 months old and i think he died of salmonella. What are some signs of it because when he died i was at my dad's house and i don't really know.....??
Marissa- you shouldn't feed the slushy mix unless the leopard gecko is loosing weight- you can see weight loss in the tail. There could be various reasons for a leopard gecko to not eat-I've mentioned most of the reasons in the above article. I would need details to help you figure out the problem. Check you temps. Could be impaction. Parasites. Etc.
The likelihood of a leopard gecko dying of salmonella is slim. It was problem parasites. The diet is really up to you. I feed solely mealworms, but only because I don't like crickets. I have one leopard gecko that eats discoid roaches.
You need to consider a vet. Many pet store reptiles are likely to have parasites, to which only a vet can diagnose and treat.
everytime I go to give her her slushy mix she is always on the cool side.. Why is this?I turn off her amp at night and the heating pad is always on.. I haven't changed substrate so maybe I need to change substrate?
if your leopard gecko is dying of salmonella, can you contact a vet or go to one to get info on it and can you get meds to make it go away? when you feed your leopard gecko the slushy mix is it more than likely that your leo will hiss at you due to the looks of the eyedropper?? and if a leo has salmonella, canyou get rid of it?
how could you tell if your leo has impaction? Since i cleaned his cage the other day to news paper, is it a normal reaction for him to be climbing up the glass or does he just think there is another lizard on the other side because of his reflection?
P.S. sorry about all of the questions. i am not as experianced as you are. so i sometimes just need a little of advice.
Lee'al: You should change the bedding ASAP; never house reptiles on loose substrates that they can injest. If you can see the spine, contact a vet ASAP.
Marissa: As I mentioned before, it is unlikely that you previous gecko died from it, and just as unlikely that this one is dying from salmonella. You can contract salmonella from reptiles, but as long as you wash your hands before and after handling a reptile, you should be fine. I'm not 100% about signs and symptoms of salmonella poisoning in humans, so just google it. No they won't hiss at the eyedropper. They'll hiss becuase of stress and fear. A sick leopard gecko will hiss more than a healthy one. Check out the impaction article that I left in a link for a little while back. As for climbing the glass- no he does not see a reflection, that close up there won't be one; more than likely its because you changed his habitat, but it's nothing to worry about.
my leo hasnt eaten for ABOUT a week or two. he refuses the crickets and mealworms. should i bring him to the vet.
thank you and also i just got bearded dragons (2) from a friend and they are in perfect condition and also should i chop up the veatables tiny???? or should i shread them?????? and can i tell if the are mail and female and my leopard gecok it now going to the bath room but there is so far always a little perlite in them(1-5 pieces) and then when they go to the bathroom it is brown which is food right? and whote is water right? cause i have not seen any brown only a little white and it is comeing out a little squishy. and why was she eating the perlite???????
TJ- is he loosing weight? How long have you had him? What are his temps? You may consider a vet if you temps are at 90F on the hot side and he's housed on paper towels or some other solid surface.
Kevin- sexing bearded dragons is different than leopard geckos. I would recommend separating them just in case. you can't house 2 males and you shouldn't house 1 of each together. vegetables should be no larger than the width between the eyes. Read my article about bearded dragon diet: http://hubpages.com/_reptiles/hub/Bearded_Dragon_D and care http://hubpages.com/_reptiles/hub/Bearded-Dragon-C
Please respond to bearded dragon questions there.
he only seems to climb up the glass when i change the light from day to night i think it is because do you think he misses the other leopard geckos that he used to live with
is it a good thing when you put your hand in the leo's cage to try to get your leo used to you and it comes slowly at your hand to i don't really know see what your hand really is?
Marissa- he was housed with another gecko? Is this the same one that died? If so, they probably both had parasites, which means you need to find a vet asap before this one passes, too. And, no, more than likely he doesn't miss the other gecko. As they are nocturnal, he's just becoming active... You need to disenfect the cage thoroughly before putting another gecko in that cage, as parasites is highly contagious between the same species. You don't need to add another gecko before this on is cured and you've disenfected the cage. You must quarentine any new geckos for at least 30 days before introducing them together.
It is a good thing, as the gecko is checking out your hand. If you have not started handling him, this would be a great opportunity to lay you hand flat and see if he'll climb onto your palm.
Sheisn't getting better
no not in the cage i have him in now the one at the pet store. sorry for not being so specific. not the one that died
Lee'al- I'd recommend a vet ASAP. It will take time to gain back all the weight. Months... But, if it's skin and bones as you've said, it's time for the vet.
Marissa- Ok, well more than likely he's not missing the gecko.
i am feeding my leopard gecko the slushy mix and he seems to like it alot!!!! if your gecko's tummy looks like there is something in i like a big blob, is that a sigh of compaction?....or what??? and also... is he supposed to poop a little liquidy if i am feeding him the slushy because i think so.
Marissa- I believe I've mentioned previously, yes when on the slushy mix, their fecal matter will be liquidy, as there's no real substance to the mix. Impaction can be seen by lack of fecal matter, lack of appetite, and a hard mass in the stomach. You really should check out my Impaction article, that I keep referring you to. I think it would answer all the questions you keep asking.
Here's the link again: http://hubpages.com/_reptilehelp/hub/Impaction
I see this is alot about gecko but i have a question about a bearded dragon.He hasn't been eating lately but i have gotten him t drink some water is there anything else i can do about him not eating? I wonder is there any supplements i can give him that would help? thanks
Liz- It could be improper husbandry mainly improper temps. Parasites. There's really not a supplement that would enhance appetite. Use a digital thermometer with a probe to check your temperatures. Make sure that your UV isn't old- older than 5 months. Consider impaction if he's being housed on a loose substrate like sand. Make sure the humidity level is low, which means no dirt bedding, coconut bedding, etc. Don't spray the enclosure, either provide a water dish or give him water baths in the sink or tub. How long has he been not eating? Is he not eating crickets or mealworms or his veggies?
thanks for referring me to the impaction website it has given me alot of advice that i really needed. I figured out that my lizard has impaction and i am doing as much as i can to help im recover.
Good luck. Impaction is fatal if you don't catch it early. You may consider a vet to "flush" the gecko.
how does the vet flush the gecko out? do you know how much the vet would cost if i took him because my mom said that she wouldn't take him to the vet because he is a lizard so i was wondering about how much this would cost because maybe i could save my money to get him into see a vet.
A vet will cost you the visit and any medications that are used. It can usually range from $30 to over $100. Most regular vets won't see reptiles, so you will have to make sure that you can find one in your area.
I'm not exact on details, but I believe they use a solution of some sort to loosen up the impaction. Something you would not be able to do at home.
when a lizard has impaction, does it hurt your animal? can they feel it?
Impaction is nothing more than severe constipation. So imagine being severly constipated. I'm sure it hurts.
i took my lizard to the vet earlier today and the vet said that the impaction wasn't very bad at all and that he thinks he has a good chance to survive. i was so happy to hear that news!!!!!!!!!
hey how come leopard gecko is eating the perlite i put in there and when i found out she was eating it i took it out emidienly and i wan to try vermuculite were can i get it??????? and should i only put it in there when she is pregnet???
also for the bottom of the tank could i put in computer paper????
It could have been eating the perlite because it's moist. Make sure to provide fresh water daily. If she's eating the perlite, she'll probably eat the vermiculite, but you can try gardening stores.
can i put in computer paper as a medium???? and what should i use for an egg laying medium??????? and also i think she might be impacted how can i tell with out waiting a while till she louses weight???
hey 2 more qustion can you help me identify my type of leopard gecko(tangerine blizerd ect...) she has no spots she is a dark yellow and ta the base of her tail it is orange then the rest of her tail is purple. and also can u point me in the direction of a website that can help me identify what the different leopard geckos look like(tangerine blizzard patternless ect...) and if you can can u make sure their are picture cause i can seem to find any.
Computer paper won't hold moisture. If you're speaking in terms of for the enclosure, I don't see why not, but for a humid hide, no.
I use bed-a-beast (also known as eco-earth) in my humid hide/laying boxes; although this does not hold moisture well. You will need to mist it every couple of days. I make sure that all of the substrate is moist, once a week, and mist it throughout the week. Don't saturate the substrate so that you can squeeze water out of it, but keep it moist during laying season.
Impaction: http://hubpages.com/_reptilehelp/hub/Impaction
Breeding: http://hubpages.com/_reptiles/hub/Breeding_Leopard
It's hard to tell from your description. If it doesn't have any spots it may be a hypo tangerine.
Check out these sites:
http://www.geckosetc.com/htm/morphs.htm
http://www.paulsagereptiles.com/LeopardGenetics.ht
I'm actually, working on creating a database of morphs that I will post on my website, but until then the sites above should help out a little.
thank you so much and can i put a hot rock in there if it is very low wattage so your saying i can put computer paper down for an encloser??
thanks!!!!!!!!!!!! and what time of year should i breed in and cant they have up to 16 babys during the breeding season and i have a 55 gallon aquriam it is a salt water aquriaium. it is 20'' high 1' wide and 3' and 11 5/8'' long
No. Never Ever Ever use a hot rock of ANY wattage! You can use computer paper as a substrate instead of paper towels, but I find that paper towels are cheaper... I mean I don't see why it wouldn't hurt, as it's a solid substrate.
Leopard geckos can have more than 16 eggs a season. Not every egg will hatch, not every egg is fertile, not every egg will give you a hatchling. So just because you may get 16 eggs, you probably won't get 16 hatchlings. Just because you have a 55 gallon tank doesn't mean that you should house hatchlings together. Your first hatchling will be much larger than the last one by the time your last egg hatches. It's not safe; it's not a good idea. You risk bullying and unneccessary stress. (Would you mind asking breeeding questions on my breeding leopard gecko hub.) Think about what you will do with any hatchlings before breeding. It takes a good deal of money to house and feed them.
would that tank be to big or to small?? thank you and those web te really helped my leopard gecko well..... i will just descirbe it to you to tell you whi found out about its traits okay it is pattern less gecko with a purple tail and at the base of the tail it is tangirine and it has snake eyes well that is what i found out it helped alout and can you in breed(breed a brother and a sister gecko to gather) and what would happen???
well with my bearded dragons the lady that had them before me has had them on that hot rock for about 2 years and to make sure they did not have any problems or burns on the inside or the out side i took the to a vet and he said they were fine i dont know about that but i wont put one in with my leopard gecko
You shouldn't breed related geckos. You will cause inbreeding which can cause problems with future hatchlings. Inbreeding causes deformities.
You shouldn't use hot rocks. It's not safe. But if you want to risk it, by all means go for it.
Oh and I updated the comment above with your cage question.
ohhhhhhhhh ................ i am sorry about posting the thigs on the wrong hub
It's ok. I just would like questions on related hubs so that people with similar questions would be able to see yours.
okay what should i house the baby leopard geckos??
House them individually, meaning either invest in a rack system (minimum of $250) or buy a lot of 10 gallon aquariums, tops, UTHs, etc.. It's ok to house clutchmates together but only if they're the same size. You will usually have to separate them after some time because their growth rates will vary.
Breeding and Hatchling Questions: http://hubpages.com/_reptiles/hub/Breeding_Leopard
whats a rack system a when you say clutch mates do you mean do you mean to eggs that hatched to gather and with baby leopard geckos do they need a heat source like a heating pad or a light and you know those little beata tanks well can use them for each individual gecko and 1 last thing what is a rack system??? and can i house 2 female leopard geckos togather????
A clutch would be the eggs that are laid at the same time.
Rack system is a caging system that involves a series of flexwatt heat tape, a thermostat, and tubs. If you were to make a rack, it will cost you the same or more than if you were to purchase one. Thermostat-$150, flexwatt-$2.20 per foot, metal conductors- 3.20 per pair, tubs- $2.00 each. Plus the cost of wood, nails, etc.
Why wouldn't you think that a baby leopard gecko would not need heat? They need to be treated just like adult leopard gecko except for smaller food. I really suggest you reading my breeding leopard gecko article.
No don't house leopard gecko hatchlings in betta containers. If you do, they'll grow out of it in a few weeks. It's going to cost you more money in the long run buying small tanks and then larger ones in a few weeks.
No. I don't suggest housing multiple leopard geckos together, even if they are females.
I think that you need to do more research before you consider breeding, as you actually asked me if the hatchlings need heat... PLEASE read my article about breeding leopard geckos. Please.
i will i dont even have a male yet and the reason i was asking is because most articals i have read dont say any thing about heat
Any article that I've ever read tends to mention treat hatchlings jsut like adult leopard geckos, on exception for food size. They are still leopard geckos, so you should not treat them any different.
Breeding is a serious matter. Make sure that you can provide housing for hatchlings. What will you do if you cannot find homes for them? Do you have the space and money to care for them properly? How will you find homes? What will you do if you can't find homes? Would you be willing to ship? Sell to pet stores? Friends? It can take time to find homes for geckos, especially lower end morphs. You will more than likely have to give them away.
Please respond to this comment in my breeding article.
hi i have a sand eye gecko. I've had him for five and a half years. about two weeks ago i noticed that he lost his appetiite. he hasn't been eating. now his tail is cut at the tip and his face is cut. i think a cricket attacked him. i took the crickets out. what should i do for him? i think he might have impaction because he stands in awkward positions now. he looks very uncomfortable.
Alia- I am not 100% familiar with sand eye geckos, but you may want to check out my impaction article if you believe that he may be impacted
http://hubpages.com/_reptilehelp/hub/Impaction
Crickets could be the cause for hte sores, which is why you shouldn't leave crickets in an enclosure for more than 20 minutes give or take. You can put a light coat of neosporin on the sores to help heal them. But, make sure to remove any sand or loos substrates from the enclosure, because if the particles get in the wound, it can cause infection.
My leopard gecko hasn't been going into his house enclosure and he is always at his heat rock resting all day and some of the night. is this a problem?
he has been at his heat rock alot more often than in his enclosure is this a sign of loss of heat?
Marissa- You shouldn't use a heat rock in any reptile's enclosure. It can cause sever burns to the belly. If you choose to use one make sure it is unplugged.
You need a digitial thermometer with a probe so that you can see what the temperatures are on the surface of your tank. You may need to up your wattage of your light bulb, or make sure that your UTH is working properly. Improper temperatures can cause digestive problems and other health concerns. With temps that are too low the gecko won't eat becasue he's not digesting what he's already eaten properly.
You want to keep the UTH and light bulb on the same side, otherwise you'll get a hot and warm side versus hot and cool side. Make sure there is at least 2 hides one on each side. And unplug your heat rock!!!
OMG! MY BABY GECKO IS OUT OF IT. SHEHAS IMPACTION (i'M GUESSING CUZ SHE HAS A BLUE DOT ON HER STOMACH) AND i DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO!!!!! HELP! SHE'S 3 WEEKS OLD, WON'T EAT, WON'T DRINK, AND I'M SCARED. WE GIVE HER A MEALWORM EVERYDAY, BUT SHE'S SO SKINNY YOU CAN SEE HER BONES! HELP! MY MOM IS TAKING OUT ALL THE SAND WE HAD IN THERE, BUT WHAT ELSE SHOULD I DO? WE HAS A BASKING LAMP, AND HIDING AREAS.
URGENT101
what do i do to get her up and at it again and she seemas to have a loss in appetite . HELP ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
No offense, as you've mentioned she died, but you shouldn't have let it get so bad. Also, the blue dot was more than likely the liver, as it's something that I see in my hatchlings right out of the egg and days later, and I don't use sand anywhere near my leopard gecko enclosures. You may consider parasites.
hey, well on my leopard geckos stomach there is a faded blue dot is that just on of her body parts.
Yes, it's more than likely just his liver. If you are worried about it, you may consider a vet, but if the blue area is directly in the middle of the underbelly, its more than likely the liver. I have even check some of my adults, and they all have a similar blue area, and none of my geckos have been on sand. The 2 that were on sand, years and years ago, have the spot same as those who haven't been housed with sand.
Whitney
What do you thiink? We have a leopard gecko and have had her for just over a month. She is in a 10 gallan tank with retptile carpet, water dish, hide and a few rocks. She has an under tank heater and a heat light, both on the same side of the tank. She has been doing well since we brought her home, eating crickets( dusted 2-3 times a week ), getting uses to handling and has shed a few times. She does have a light layer of moss lining the floor of the hide but I don't think this is a problem. She typically eats every night at around 8pm and is usually very excited when we drop in the crickets. Now, for the past 4 days, she will not eat or even pay any attention to the crickets. She is still having bowel movements and she doesn't seem to be losing weight. Any idea on what might be causing the lose of appetite?
Planet89- like I mentioned on the other topic. I think you are housing correctly. You've done your research in terms of care. I think that 4 days is fine. It could be the weather, even though your temps are accurate. I have geckos that will slow their activity and appetite even with accurate temps while during winter. I would just watch her for a week or so, and if you notice any signs of her loosing tail mass, then it calls for a trip to the vet.
If you notice her not drinking, it can be a sign of parasites. Many pet store reptiles have parasites or some type of worm, which cam be fatal. But, if she's drinking that should be the case. Plus, I think you would have noticed signs of this prior to now.
Thanks Whitney, couldn't find the other post so I resubmitted. We will continue to monitor her for another couple of days, maybe try mealworms for her. Her tail does seem to be a little thinner but it is hard to tell.
Thanks for the help
Dear Whitney...
wow, do you sleep or just answer gecko questions!!! You are the most knowledgeable person I have found on the web. I have a sad story as my leapord gecko died yesterday and I am trying to figure out what happened. After $350 dollars in vet charges and medicines, my patternless leopard gecko "Malachite" about 4 years old (I raised him) passed away. I am going to copy and paste a note I sent to the 2nd vet I went to, so you can see the fact pattern and perhaps also provide some insight as to what happened. I would love to get another one, but I can't handle what happened to this one.. To start off the story, in the beginning of december he had what looked like "mealworm pieces" stuck in his gums... I took him to a petstore where they removed the pieces and told me to change my lighting system to just an infarred heat light all the time. I did this after 3 years of success with a UV, and my gecko had an incomplete shed - his eye looked infected. A few days later I took him to a clinic who said his eye would be fine and nothing was wrong with it, but to change the light system back. I did this... He kept getting crusty things in his mouth and his eyes got swollen (one with goo and one just swollen) I took him to a different vet who gave him antibiotics SMZ-pediatric suspension and explained that the bubbles were abscess....from a respiratory infection... A week later the bubbles went down but the original infected eye looked worse... I tried taking him to the same vet but he was at a convention so I had to take him to a different vet who gave him stronger antibiotics and eyedrops. I gave him 3 doses of the antibiotics (it was for every 3days) and eye drops every day. I had to force feed him every few days (Baby food mixed with calcium powder) because he wasnt getting nutrients since the eye/mouth problem started... He was pooping so I did not think it was impaction. I also swtiched to paper towels a while about. I sent the second vet (who seemed very qualified) this e-mail in hopes for a response... prehaps you will be able to comment...
I gave Malachite the medicine you prescribed (SMZ-TMP Pediatric Suspension). The abscess bubbles went down considerably but not completely. The original eye of infection, however, got much worse and he still was not eating. I tried calling to reach you at the wildlife center on Thursday January 24th, before I realized you would not be back until the 28th (and very busy I’d presume).
I had to get help so I brought him to the an animal hospital last Friday (25th) where a doctor examined him who said he probably just needed a stronger antibiotic. She knew what I was currently giving him and the dosage. She prescribed Enrofloxacin (.03 ml every third day for three weeks) and Ciprofloxacin to put in his eye everyday. After the first day, I thought he was going to get better but his condition seemed to worsen throughout the week. It was hard to tell because I had to force feed him, and I thought maybe it would just take some time. I was feeding him baby food for a while and then mixed in some mashed up worms (of course with calcium)- he just started looking frail. I had painted his lips for a while like you suggested, but after a week I felt he needed more substance – he just wasn’t getting enough.
On this past Thursday when I gave him his eye drop, he squirted a clear liquid at me through his vent area (I thought it was pee but that’s not their normal pee…) This substance is still a mystery to me. I had plans to take him back to the vet in Providence for a follow up next Saturday, so I figured I would ask her then... I did not realize he only had a few days left.
Last night, he looked bad. Before he died, he looked very brown in color (he had not shed in 3 weeks... which was abnormal). He also looked weak (not standing too well - dragging the lower back side of his body) and was trying to throw up the food he had been fed (but couldn’t). I was going to take him to an emergency care center today if he still looked this bad, but when I woke up, he had passed away.
I know that many doctors don’t have the knowledge or understanding of these animals to know what to do when they get sick. You were, by far, the most qualified person I took him too. I am just curious as to what happened to him. Based on his color, that strange liquid and his worsening condition – I am hoping for a diagnosis of what the problem might have been. Do you think an infection had spread throughout his body and his respiratory system failed? or maybe it was something else?
I hope my actions subsequent to my visit with you were not for the worse. Any answers you might have or insight to the situation would be greatly appreciated.
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for the past day or so my leopard gecko's eye's have looked as if they are pushed in a little. i am reall worried aboot him because i have never seen this in him before. is there anything i can or should do to help???
Emily- I do applaud your care and attention to your gecko. I am sorry for your loss, but it seems you did a great deal for the little guy. I want to start off with the pet store employee who told you to put him under UV lighting was incorrect. Although not detrimental, it's not neccesary, much less all the time. A simple light bulb and under tank heater is proper for their heating and lighting. Without this heat you stir up health issues. Although, I'm not 100% as to the cause or condition of the gecko. To me, it sounds a little like an upper respiratory infection, which can be caused by improper husbandry among other concerns. The lowered temperatures can lower the gecko's immune system, which would cause him to be more succeptible to the issue. An eye infection was obvious with the eye discharge, but I am leaning towards a respiratory infection as to the bubbles from his nose. Mouth rot could be a concern with the gum problems he was having, but hard to diagnose from a written description.
I would say that proper treatment would include antibacterial agents, medicated vaporization therapy (nebulization), slight increase in temperature, and correct any husbandry concerns.
Marissa- you need to find a vet ASAP! There's not much you can do without veterinary care.
Whitney, thank you very much for your response and comments. I definitely think what may have started the problem was inadequate heat... I will take all your comments and suggestions on your website with me if I decide to get a new gecko. One last inquiry... I have a friend who put a male and a female in a tank together for about two years. The male always ate all the food and the female was really skinny. (I never recommended putting them together) He would feed the female with tweezers to ensure she got food. When I told him about what happened to my pet, he said that his MALE gecko actually got sick and died last summer, but the female has remained in good shape. This was shocking considering the opposite condition of the pets last year and the fact that they were in the same tank.... Do you think perhaps male geckos are more inclined to illness and problems?
If I might comment on Marissa's issue - that is how my gecko's infected eye looked and it was just a small sign of a much bigger problem. Go to a VET!
Emily- I've never noticed anything to prove that males are more prone to health problems and early death. Poor breeding and genetics can take place. Similar with dogs with poor breeding, they just tend to be prone to health problems and shorter lifespan. This tend to be the case when it comes to wholesale reptiles. Usually, these are the ones you find at pet stores.
I usually don't have too much trouble eating, but I don't know about mealworms. I guess I'm more of a cricket gecko...
Does that mean I'm unlucky? :(
my gecko looks like he is about to shed but he also looks like he is stiff but he isn't dead. what do you think is going to happen to him?
marissa- what are thr temperatures in the enclosure? Too low temperatures can put reptiles into a hibernation state, which would make him stiff and appear dead, sort of.
Whitney--I own a male lepard gecko. After much research I decided to find a female for breeding. I was in the pet shop and happen to see two female's in the same tank. I bought one took it home and shortly intruded her to my male. At first they smelled each other. My male as it should rattled his tail. The other gecko did nothing at first. I watched them closely and it started to shake it's tail. Not as fast as my male but it lacked his size as well. Shorter, ect. Probably not as old as my two year old male. They started to fight all at once biting each other. I quickly separted them. I checked under the "female" and noticed the b
jordan says:
9 months ago
hi i have a babe leperd gecko i have had it about 3 or 4 days and it isent eating since i got it i feed it mealwooms what shalli do im really worrd incas it diys pleas e-mail me back asap thanks e-mail me at rainbow624@msn.com