Ears perk up when Oaxaca is mentioned.  Arguably, no other city in Mexico generates the reaction that Oaxaca City does.  Designated a World Heritage Site in 1987 by UNESCO, the city is an architectural gem.  The pre-hispanic sites of Monte Alban and Mitla harmoniously blend with the spanish colonial architecture throughout the area. 

Situated approximately six hours (by fast car) southeast of Mexico City, Oaxaca City is located near the geographical center of the state of Oaxaca.  In the region known as the central valley, created by the merging of the Tiacolula, Zimatlan and Etla valleys, the city sits at an elevation of 5,115”.  The area is internationally known for its pre-hispanic and colonial architecture, a thriving art scene, spanish language schools, and of course the regional cuisine.  All of this translates into culture.

Getting around Oaxaca City is relatively easy, if you’ll avoid the late afternoon frenzy.  Armed with a map, you’ll soon familiarize yourself with its grid layout, using the area’s landmarks as your guides.  The central plaza is a tourist hangout, and you’re more likely to hear english spoken than spanish.  High end hotels and expensive restaurants are in abundant supply.  You can settle into the real Oaxaca by venturing a couple of blocks from the zocalo.  

Guelaguetza, Oaxaca’s elaborate music and dance celebration, features the traditional dance, clothing and music from all the ethnic groups in Oaxaca’s seven regions.  The event is held in July, during the rainy season, and originated as an offering ceremony for the gods to ensure plentiful rain throughout the growing season, and to ensure a bountiful harvest.  This stunning spectacle begins at 10 a.m., on two consecutive Monday mornings, in a stadium on Cerro del Fortin, the high hill overlooking the central city.   Flair, pageantry, brilliant colors, stunning beauty, and elegant manners combine to make this one of the highlights of the Oaxaca festival season. It should not be missed.  Purchase your tickets in advance and arrive early at the stadium.   

In the art world, Oaxaca is best known for its fantastical wood carvings, more commonly known as alebrijes.  These carvings defy description, and are some of the most popular art to originate in all of Mexico.  Several villages just outside the city are home to the wood carvers.  It’s so easy to succumb to the idea of purchasing the first alebrije you find.  It’s your decision to make.  There are, however, several points to consider. 

The more well known the artist’s name, the higher the price you’ll be required to pay for one of his/her carvings.   There are times when you will find that the well-known artist is more involved in the actual marketing than the creation of the product, while family members are busy carving the wood and applying the paint detail. This tends to happen when the immediate family is quite large.  Brothers and sisters and sons and daughters are all involved.  This is not a bad thing, of course, as your purchase supports the entire family.  

Other times you’ll find a husband-wife team doing all of the work.  Older pieces would generally carry the patriarch of the family’s name.  More and more you will now find the husband and wife’s names together, or the father and sons names signed on the individual pieces.  

Seek out the artist who’s work you have a particular fondness for.  This can be an arduous process as you might be knocking on many doors, asking for directions.  Often times you’ll find little help in this regard, only to turn around and find the artist in question living directly across the street, or around the corner.   As on Hubpages, competition is fierce, the right answer may not be forthcoming, and sometimes you’ve just got to do your homework. 

These artists are, for the most part, quite receptive to allowing total strangers in their homes.  Some of them are the elders of their community, having earned their revered status many times over.  It’s important to remember this basic point, treating them with the respect they rightfully deserve.  Who knows, maybe you too will be invited, repeatedly, for meals of chicken mole’, sitting on the front porch, watching the sun set on the ruins of Monte Alban, with a toast or four from an old man’s secret recipe of fruit flavored mescal. 

Mexico’s art scene is a thriving and eclectic scene, and the chance for a heightened spiritual awakening can occur anywhere.  However, the odds are definitely in your favor in Oaxaca.  Your Mexican vacation would not be complete without time spent in the southern part of the country.  In a word, Oaxaca is magic.