The Metro is the a wonderful subway (and above-ground) urban railway on quiet rubber wheels. I rarely hail a cab in Paris-that is try to find the closest cab stand-since it is really hard to stop Paris cabs in mid-flight. But it seems at every turn there's a large rabbit-hole of an entrance to the Metro and often two or more within three blocks. The center, tourist area of Paris is just chock-a-block with Metro stations. AND the Metro connects with the RER urban railway line, which goes out to suburbs like Versailles (with the Palace of Louis XIV) about 14 miles from Paris center. There are 14 separate but connected Metro lines going east, west, north and south, all numbered and color coded in the logical Metro Maps included with every city map and city guide and at every Metro station and on every Metro car. The Metro is very, very fast, very, very safe and very, very inexpensive, especially if you buy a timed pass or at least a book (carnet) of ten or more tickets.

What's not to like? Summers when there a big events (like the all-night music festival on June 21 or the Bastille Day fireworks on July 14) the Metro can be shoulder to shoulder, hip to hip crowded day and night. Parisians are used to it and, as long as you don't get too friendly, they don't give it any attention. Also, of course, on workday rush hours the cars can be crowded. Don't get impatient if some trains whiz throught the station without stopping. That means there are extra trains put on to deal with the rush of people and another train will be there within five minutes. Of course, like any railway, there can be delays because of construction or repair, but there is plenty of signage warning about where and when such delays might occur. If you hear an announcement and recognize the word delai/delay (same in both languages) ask someone about it; there's sure to be an English speaker withing three rows. Frenchmen and Frenchwomen are conditioned from grade school up to be helpful to polite strangers. (Politeness is a very big deal in France, as it seems to be in California from my experience. Don't shout at people in English. How would you feel if a confused Frenchman in the U.S. started shouting at you in French?)

If you are interested in exploring Paris you might be interested in doing a tour following in the footsteps of Thomas Jefferson when he was Ambassador (Minister Plenipotentiary) to France from 1785-1789. There are many buildings that still remain from his time, e.g. the Palais Royal near the Louvre and the Abbaye de Panthémont on the left bank near Les Invalides. The page to see this is my Jefferson Walking Tours in Paris which is one page on my site Jefferson in Paris.

Speaking of maps (which I was a while ago) there are, off the bat, two excellent and inexpensive map guides for Paris which I recommend strongly.

1. Moon Metro Paris published by Avalon Travel Publishing (see the adjoining Amazon listing). This book doesn't weigh much and can easily fit into a purse or a coat or pants pocket. It has large, very readable maps which unfold for each of the nine most popular tourist areas in Paris, from Montmartre in the north to the Latin Quarter in the south. It has a full map of the Metro and RER systems on the inside back cover plus sections covering of the sights (like Eiffel Tower, museums), restaurants, nightlife, shops, arts and hotels. It has French phrases, as street index and a transit index.

2. Michelin Paris Nord au Sud Atlas (Michelin #56). As you noticed the book is in French. But it's just a complete, small atlas and index of all the streets in French-and since the streets names are in French we don't need a translation. On the other hand, the key to the map symbols is in English (and four other languages). It has useful maps of the two main Paris airports, a map of all the bicycle routes in the city (there are a lot), useful (credit card companies, tourist agencies, etc.) and urgent (health, pharmacies, etc.) telephone numbers, numbers to call radio taxis, and, very important, taxi ranks (stations) where you can actually call or walk to and get a cab, and the stops of the buses that will take you to the airports (much cheaper than a taxi but not as cheap as the RER trains). It has a map of the city bus lines and of the "Noctambus" that will take you on your way from 1:00 a.m. to 5:35 a.m. if you get involved in the nightlife.

"If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a

young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your

life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast."

— Ernest Hemingway (1899-1961), U.S. author.

History of the Métro

Evidence of plans to build the métropolitain (or the Nécropolitain, as it was dubbed by one wit) existed as early as 1845, though the first line was not completed until July 19, 1900. (Line 1, as it is still called, ran from Porte de Vincennes to Porte Maillot; it has since been extended — from Château de Vincennes to La Défense.) Following the construction of the Eiffel Tower by eleven years, this elegant transportation system stole the show, and remains to this day a model of efficient public transportation.

While the engineer Fulgence Bienvenüe was in charge of construction, architect Hector Guimard is credited for the charming Art Nouveau entrances. The system boasts 211 km (131 miles) of track and 14 lines, shuttling 3500 cars on a precise schedule between 380 stations (not including RER stations), 87 of these offering connections between lines. It is said that every building in Paris is within 500 meters (3/10 mile) of a métro station. Roughly 6 million people per day patronize the métro, which employs over 15,000.

Some of the métro stations are worth a visit in their own right. For example, the stop for the Louvre (line 1) gives one the impression that the train has pulled into the Museum itself: the immaculate marble walls are lined with exhibits and replicas of art works, with glass cases containing various sculptures. On line 13, Varenne offers exhibits from the nearby Rodin Museum (including a replica of The Thinker), while Liège is paneled with beautiful tiles. Abbesses (line 12) features murals alongside its spiral staircase leading to one of the more elaborate of Art Nouveau entrances.

Métro automatique, ligne Météor (Paris)

Copyright F. de La Mure / M.A.E.

Travel Tips

Though this author had to play the "dumb tourist" to avoid being severely fined by a contrôleur for riding in a first class car with a second-class ticket many years ago, the métro system — in a rare display of egalitarianism — did away with first class cars in August, 1991. A word of caution: though a single-fare ticket is valid for an entire continuous trip — including connections — be sure to keep your ticket until you leave the system at your destination; being caught without it means an instant fine of €35, payable in cash on the spot (unless you wish to acquaint yourself intimately with the French judicial system).

While Paris has a lower incidence of violent crime than most major cities, it is wise to keep your wits about you (particularly in the crowded venue of a métro station) and guard against pick-pockets, whose scams can be particularly creative at times. Perhaps as a testament to the Artful Dodger and Fagan's pick-pocketing ragamuffins in Oliver, the operatives ply their scam in pairs — frequently on the escalators on the way up to street level: One will stop suddenly at the top exit, as though he's dropped something; while you try to avoid running over him, you're jostled from the rear by the second one, who lifts your wallet. It's recommended that gentlemen carry their wallets in their jacket's inner pocket, rather than in a rear pants pocket. Likewise, ladies should hold their purses in hand, instead of slung by their strap from the shoulders. (Thieves commonly cut the strap of a dangling purse with a utility knife.)

Should you happen to see everyone leaving a packed métro station following an announcement in French on the public address system, chances are you are witnessing one of their periodic strikes (or grèves). These manifestations occur from time to time when the unions are displeased with government, or during elections. Look at it this way: you'll get a chance to explore sections of Paris you might otherwise have only passed underground!

Maps & Directions

Free maps are also available at most stations, which provide the basics for navigation. If you want detailed breakdowns, we recommend the following, which are available at most newsstands and bookshops:

• Tout Paris par Arrondissement. Small spiral-bound note-book, with index of streets, detailed maps of each arrondissement, and a list of useful addresses. Editions Blay Foldex, priced around € 6.
• Paris Classique par Arrondissement. Pocket-sized, with fold-out map as well as more detailed maps of each arrondissement, and index of streets. Editions L'Indispensable, priced around € 9.

For the latest in subway technology, try the express stations' computerized routefinders: at the touch of a button, you'll be shown four alternative routes to your selected destination, on foot or by public transport.

Online Route Finder

The RATP web site offers an excellent tool (in English or French) to assist in planning your route(s) throughout Paris and its suburbs. Using their convenient form, merely enter the starting and destination points (either by street address, subway stop, or even by monument — such as Tour Eiffel), travel date & time, type of transport desired (bus, rail, tram), and personal preferences. The system will then produce a map suitable for printing, detailed text instructions (lines, stops, and transfers where applicable), estimated travel time, and a button to plan your return trip.

Ticketing

Tickets are valid on either the métro, buses, or the central Paris RER trains (zones 1 & 2), as well as certain select venues, such as the funicular at Montmartre. Single tickets (€1.40) may be purchased at the counters each time, but the better value is a carnet of 10 (€10.90), which will save you queuing; these may also be purchased from many tobacconists. Another option for frequent travel during a short visit is the Mobilis 1-day pass, available in various denominations according to the zones of travel.

Parisians themselves rely on either monthly or weekly passes (coupons) which are carried in a gray plastic slipcase with the Carte Orange. They are the most economical tickets to use on the entire RATP network, provided you are in Paris long enough to benefit from them. Although some station ticket agents may balk at selling these to tourists, anyone is permitted to buy them.

The weekly pass (coupon hebdomadaire) is valid for unlimited travel from Monday to Sunday; it may be purchased until Wednesdays for the current week, and starting on Fridays for the following week (no passes are sold on Thursdays). The monthly pass (coupon mensuel) begins on the first day of the month and may be purchased starting on the 20th of the prior month. You'll need a passport photo to place on the pass; be sure to bring extras from home or purchase one for about €4 from machines in the main stations.

There are also special passes offered only to foreign travelers, called Paris Visites, which are valid for either 1, 2, 3 or 5 days' unlimited use on the entire RATP network, and may be purchased online before your departure to France. For métro travel alone — within Paris city limits — these are not as economical as the coupon hebdomadaire, but they can begin on any day of the week (rather than just Monday to Sunday), and provide 20-35% discounts (or 2-for-1 tickets) on Paris boat trips and certain other attractions. Another advantage is that they can be purchased for certain travel zones, either just within Paris, or for trips as far away as Versailles, Disneyland-Paris, or the airports. Fares vary according to number of days and travel zones selected; children 4 to 11 years old are half-price (kids under 4 ride free of charge).

Though senior citizens over age 60 (with passport as proof) will be given reduced entry to most museums and monuments in Paris, there is no reduction on public transport.

How To Use Passes On the Métro & Buses

The Mobilis, Carte Orange, and Paris Visite passes all come with a plastic sleeve in which to keep the ticket portion of the pass — which is the same size as a regular ticket, but more durable. When entering a métro or RER station, simply remove the ticket from its sleeve and insert it into the slot on a turnstile. The ticket will be returned to you from a second slot; replace it into its sleeve and pass through the turnstile. (Note: the ticket is also required in order to exit from RER stations.) When boarding on a bus, however, simply show your pass to the driver; do not insert the ticket into the machine on a bus, as this will invalidate it.

Hours of Service

Métro trains run from 5:30 a.m. to approximately 12:45 or 1:00 a.m. (this varies, so don't push your luck), at which point they are brought to various depots for daily cleaning and maintenance. You'll know whether you caught the last train for the night, if you see that the two lights placed above the windshield on the front of the train are flashing slowly (as opposed to just being on) when it pulls into the station.

Overnight Transport Options

Buses

If you happen to be out after the Métro system shuts down, and you're across town from your lodgings, the Noctilien nighttime bus service can get you closer to your destination.

Effective September 20, 2005, Noctilien replaced the old Noctambus system — both doubling its number of routes and the total kilometers covered by the network. While all 18 Noctambus routes emanated from one central hub at place du Châtelet, the 35 new Noctilien routes run from five different hubs: Gare de Lyon, Gare Montparnasse, Gare Saint-Lazare, Gare de l'Est, and Châtelet. The service runs from 12:30 to 5:30 a.m., 7 days a week, covering 1,950 stops in Paris and 175 towns throughout Ile-de-France, including routes to Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports.

The frequency of Noctilien buses varies according to the route and the day of the week (extra service is offered on Saturday and Sunday mornings). Various passes are honored for travel, including the Carte Orange, Imagine R, Intégrale, Mobilis, and Paris Visite. If you don't have one of these passes, individual tickets may be purchased on board (€ 1.40 each) — though the drivers do not sell carnets of 10 tickets, which are only available from ticket agents in stations.

The number of tickets required for your particular passage is equal to the number of zones (1-5) you traverse on the route, after the first two zones; find examples of typical fares on the web site. Connecting with a different bus also requires a new fare. For more information, or to ascertain departure times for your route, you can call 08-92-68-77-14 (0.34 euro/minute).

Taxis

For nighttime travel, you can also try hailing a cab, either on the street or from the 745 taxi ranks around Paris and the suburbs. Look for the large white "Taxi Parisien" light — if it's on, the cab's available; a glowing orange light below it means it's engaged.

Overnight rates (Mon. - Sat., 7 p.m. - 7 a.m.) are €1.06 per kilometer within the city, €1.26/km to the suburbs; Sunday rates between midnight - 7 a.m. are €1.26/km to all destinations. The minimum fare for a taxi is €5.20 for 1 - 3 passengers, plus a supplement of €2.70 for each additional person, and €0.90 for each piece of luggage after the first.

Keep in mind that if you phone ahead for a taxi, the amount showing on the meter upon its arrival will reflect the distance it traveled to get to your pick-up point from its previous location. Do not be surprised if that amount is already €7 (or more) when you board.

NAVIGO: The New Urban Transport Pass

Recently introduced in Paris and 23 other cities, NAVIGO is a revolutionary new pass offering commuters the ultimate in convenience. Sized like an ordinary credit card, this pass represents a technological breakthrough for public transportation. Containing an electronic chip instead of the traditional magnetic strip, it is designed to be waved (within a few centimeters) across a sensor installed at the platform gates.

NAVIGO passes can be customized for any demographic group, including adult commuters, students, civil servants, agents of the RATP, persons on public assistance, etc. Implemented since October 2001 to replace the Carte Intégrale (annual passes for adult commuters), the rechargeable card was also made available in September 2002 to students eligible for the Imagine "R" passes. Since 2003, its implementation has been gradually phased in to include other groups, such as Carte Orange, Mobilis, Paris Visite, and even the 10-ticket carnets.

Additional Sight-seeing Notes

Some of the Paris Métro lines run over-ground for short periods. Line 6 near La Motte-Picquet allows a good view of the Seine, the Eiffel Tower and the Trocadéro. Line 7 near Pont-Marie looks across the Ile de la Cité, most striking at night when Notre Dame is lit up. By all means, do not use the métro to the exclusion of buses. The bus service in Paris is not difficult, and of course you will see much more.

Boutique

Those of you who are dying to take home a souvenir of your travels on the Paris Métro will be delighted to find a Boutique dedicated to all manner of Paris train and bus memorabilia (t-shirts, keychains, postcards, coasters, maps, cups, pens, watches, etc.). Situated near the exit for Place Carrée and the Line 4 interchange at the Châtelet—les Halles RER complex, the store is open Monday through Friday from 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.

Bibliography: Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens (RATP), the public transportation authority for Paris. Paris Métro, Alexandre Polozoff 1998 (web site). Paris: The Rough Guide (6th Ed.), Kate Baillie, 1997, Rough Guides, The Penguin Group. Exploring Paris, Fiona Dunlop, Fodor's Travel Publications, Inc., New York. The Real Guide - Paris (Revised), Kate Baillie & Tim Salmon, 1992, Prentice Hall, division of Simon & Schuster Inc., New York (out-of-print). The TimeOut Paris Guide (2nd Edition), Penguin Books USA Inc., New York (out-of-print).

Image sources: Wooden métro cars, © Guillaume Potier, from Le Métro Parisien (unofficial web site). Art Nouveau entrance to Abbesses métro station in Montmartre (75018), ©2003 Ian C. Mills (photographer), Discover France. Carte Orange in plastic sleeve with coupon mensuel (modified by Ian Mills), Paris Visite card, Noctilien logo, and student NaviGo card, from Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens (RATP). Métro automatique, ligne Météor (Paris), train interior and station Gare de Lyon, © F. de La Mure, from Ministère des Affaires Etrangères. Taxi Parisien rooftop sign, (and) Sculpture of Rodin's The Thinker in La Varenne métro station, © Paris Tourist Office (photographer: Catherine Balet), from photo library of the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau (PCVB). All Rights Reserved. Paris Métro Links

A Railfan's Guide to the Paris Métro

David Pirmann has assembled an impressive collection of photos to accompany his well-documented tour of the Paris Métro system, including information on 14 lines plus the RER & TGV.

Closed Stations in Paris' Subway

Over the years, eleven métro stations (or portions of them) have been closed to the public, and two were never opened! André Quintanar provides a fascinating tour and narrative of these ghost stations, complete with photos.

European Rail Passes

Whether you plan to explore France or traverse all of Europe, rail travel can be one of the most economical and relaxing ways to go. Let our conductor suggest the best rail package for your itinerary, then order your passes securely online.

European Railway Picture Gallery

Marco van Huden, in collaboration with rail enthusiasts around the world, hosts this remarkable collection of photos, representing rolling stock throughout Europe. The section on France includes over 60 images of the Paris Métro, plus hundreds of other photos depicting trams, funiculars, steam/ diesel/ electric locomotives, narrow gauge, stations, museums, and more.

Lost Subways, Forgotten Tunnels, Strange Railways

Frédéric Delaitre has a passion for documenting interesting railroads all over the world. The site includes a collection of stories on the Paris Métro and trains throughout France.

Metro Planet - Paris, France

Robert Schwandl has assembled an invaluable collection of information, resources and links on the Paris Métro, as well as numerous other subway systems in the world.

Métro-Pole

A site hosted by Jean-François Dancre, Métro-Pole offers news articles (in French) covering all forms of public transport in Paris.

Musée des Transports Urbains, Interurbains et Ruraux

Although the museum itself is currently closed to the public, their web site provides a fascinating look at the evolution of public transportation in Paris, dating back to 1863 and the era of horse-drawn trams. (in French)

Navily (formerly RATP Info)

An unofficial site hosted by Jean-Christophe Pagès, Navily offers a wealth of technical and historical data — with wonderful photos — of modern and antique forms of public transport in Paris. Includes an excellent presentation of the Métro's "forgotten stations", plus current news, reports on grands projets, rumors, and more. (in French)

Paris Métro Unofficial Site

Song Phanekham felt so impassioned about the Paris Métro that he has assembled this collection of historical tidbits, ruminations, and photos as an unofficial tribute. (As of 12/02, most pages are in French only.)

Petite Ceinture — "Small Belt" Railway

Of historical significance, the Petite Ceinture was built during the 19th century as a link between each great railway station of Paris. A predecessor of the Métro, it was adopted as an urban railway system by all Parisians of the time. Sadly, during the mid-1930s it fell into disuse and disrepair, and has since gradually disappeared. A faction called the "Association pour la Sauvegarde de la Petite Ceinture de Paris et de son Réseau Ferré" (AS.PC.RF) is garnering interest in the conservation of this old relic.

Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens (RATP)

This is the transportation authority's site, where you can obtain up-to-the-minute information on all aspects of public transport in Paris. (in French & English)

Sprague-Thomson Carriages

The old Sprague-Thomson carriages formed the basis of the Paris métro's rolling stock, built from 1926 to 1935 until their withdrawal in the early 1980s. A train was formed with two engined railcars and three passenger cars (one red car in the middle for first class). Today, the Sprague still makes an occasional appearance for special events in Paris. (see alternate site here)

Syndicat des Transports d'Ile-de-France (STIF)

Formerly known as the Syndicat des Transports Parisiens (STP), this organization — created in 1959 — is responsible for planning all public transport in Ile-de-France. (in French & English)

Paris Streets

If you know which Métro stop you'll be heading to, RATP provides hundreds of detailed neighborhood maps in color, showing every conceivable street, landmark, public park and body of water. Suitable for printing, all maps are in PDF format and require Acrobat™ Reader, free from Adobe.

Paris Transportation

The RATP offers a series of wonderfully detailed colored maps which you can print out, showing all the public transportation routes in Paris, including daytime bus routes, nighttime bus service (Noctambus), the Paris Métro, RER, and RATP-SNCF. In addition, they offer maps detailing which services, routes, and stations are handicapped-accessible (PBS — Personnes à Besoins Spécifiques). All maps are in PDF format and require Acrobat™ Reader, free from Adobe.

Paris Métro & Other Public Transportation

Do you know about a great Paris Métro site we should list here? If so, please use our convenient Submission Form to send your suggestions!

Students, educators, and authors are also encouraged to submit their papers or excerpts of works for publication. If you have traveled to Paris and would like to share your pictures or write a feature article, we would love to hear from you! Please use our Guest Book to communicate with the webmaster, and to request publication guidelines.

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