In legend, the ancient Romans used parsley (Petroselinum crispum) to counteract drunkenness.  In Greece, however, it was a symbol of death.  It was used there as a grave decoration, but garlands of parsley were also awarded at games.  These games, however, arose from games played at funerals, so even in this case, the herb was linked to death.  By the Middle Ages, parsley was associated with death and the devil in folklore, and transplanting the herb was thought to bring tragedy.

Nonetheless, parsley, with its mild taste and pretty, fresh, green leaves, is one of the most commonly used kitchen herbs.  In the past, parsley was an ingredient for medicines and herbal cures, but today it appears throughout the year as a useful garnish and flavor in a variety of savory foods.  Parsley is a hardy biennial, but it is often grown as an annual to keep the kitchen in fresh supplies.  If grown as a biennial, parsley will flower and set seed in the second year, and then the leaf quality deteriorates before the whole plant dies.

Parsley is normally grown from seed, but it is very slow to germinate and can sometimes take three or four weeks to appear.  Soak the seeds overnight before planting, or water them with hot water after they are planted to speed up germination.  It is often best to sow seeds in trays or pots and then transplant the seedlings when they appear.  Grow parsley in good soil and keep it well watered.  Protect the herb from hard frost and severe weather during the winter to maintain the plant and provide a crop throughout the year.  If it is easier, pot a plant and keep it in a greenhouse.  Parsley also grows very well in window boxes.

The origins of the parsley plant are much disputed.  Some say it is a native of Sardinia, others claim it originated in the eastern Mediterranean.  One thing is certain -- parsley is indispensable in the kitchen, and it is essential to have a constant supply on hand to enhance your cooking.  It helps to bring out the flavor of other herbs and is therefore always included in a bouquet garni and in other herbal mixtures.

It is often put into a dish at the beginning stages of cooking. More parsley is added, finely chopped, as a garnish at the end.  A light parsley soup is delicious in summer, and whole stalks of the herb are sometimes fried and served as a vegetable.  Parsley is probably the most popular garnish.

Rich in vitamins A and C and certain trace elements, such as iron and calcium, the herb has many medicinal uses.  It was once widely used for liver and kidney complaints. The flavor is most concentrated in the stems, which can be added whole to stocks and soups and removed before eating.  It is rarely used as the main ingredient in a recipe, except in relishes or salsas.

Parsley can be used in generous quantities in soups, sauces and stuffings, or as a garnish for shellfish, fish, meat, poultry, game and vegetable dishes.  Parsley sauce is a traditional accompaniment for fish.  There are few American recipes which use parsley on its own, but the herb is used in great quantities in the Middle East, particularly in the well-known bulgur wheat salad, tabbouleh.

There are two main kinds of parsley: curled-leaf, grown extensively in America, England, Australia and New Zealand, and the flat-leaf, often called Hamburg or continental parsley. Curled-leaf parsley is the most decorative and makes a small, round hummock of bright green.  It is a popular garnish.  Flat-leaf parsley is a more straggly plant with weaker stems.  A keen cook is likely to want both sorts of parsley, in quantity. 

A great, quick easy-to-make sauce for use with fish, ham and vebetables.

Makes One Cup :

• 2 tablespoons low-fat margarine
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 1/4 cups low-fat milk
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
• 2 tablespoons snipped fresh chives
• salt
• pepper

Melt the margerine in a saucepan over a low heat. Stir in the flour and cook 1 for minute, stirring continuously.

Remove the pan from the heat and gradually whisk in the milk. Return the pan to the heat. Bring slowly to a boil, whisking, then continue to cook until the mixture thickens.

Simmer for 3 minutes. Remove pan from heat and stir in herbs and season with salt and pepper. Serve with ham or fish.