Ask any Penangite what their town's main attraction is, and they'll proudly declare it's the food. Not that this idyllic resort island is without its scenic charms. Penang, or

Malaysia's Pearl of the Orient, is also well liked for its fine beaches, crisp seaside air and warm, hospitable people. It's no wonder Ipoh-born Hollywood star Michelle Yeoh has bought a holiday home on the island. Hollywood has also come knocking: the Khoo Kongsi clan house, belonging to one of the most opulent clan associations in Malaysia, was the location for the 1999 film Anna & the King which starred Jodie Foster and Chow Yun Fatt.

Still Penang's reputation stems largely from the many hawker stalls dotting the island - most of which are authentically good. The best way to kick off your experience is to go on a Heritage Tour into the capital Georgetown, where you can spend a day just sampling the yummy local street fare from rustic roadside coffee shops or pushcart stalls, and browsing antique and curio shops. The Heritage trail - which you can do on foot or on the more touristy (but fun) trishaw ride - covers the main streets of Jalan Penang, Lebuh Chulia, Jalan Masjid Kapitan Kling, Lebuh Pantai, and all the quaint little lanes in-between.

Delicious highlights include freshly-made deep-fried you tiao (76 Lebuh Cintra and 2C People's Court) and coconut tarts (Leong Chee Kee Biscuits, 8C People's Court).

My personal favourite though is the oyster porridge from a stall in the Kedai Kopi Lee Hoe coffee shop on Weld Quay Road near the Clan Jetty. For pocket change of RM1.70 you get a hot bowl of watery porridge mixed with slivers of pork belly, topped with generous garnishing of crispy you-tiao and chopped parsley. And the kicker? Bits of dried oyster that add a rich sweetness to the broth and elevates this simple dish to something quite heavenly.

On Queen Street, you can pick up a piping hot samosa and vadai (only RM0.50 each), made on the spot from the corner pushcart stall before visiting Penang's only surviving signboard engraver nearby. At the Kok Ying Chow Signboard Maker workshop (41 Queen Street), the elderly Kok Ah Hwa, who took over this dying trade from his father some 70 years ago, soldiers on? He continues his daily routine of hand-carving those old-school Chinese name plaques you see hanging over homes or shops.

If there's only one souvenir snack you have to truck back home, it's got to be the famous tau sar pia at Ghee Hiang Manufacturing (95 Lebuh Pantai, tel: 60 4 262- 0635, www.ghee-hiang.com). The Ghee Hiang name is a 150-year-old Malaysian brand, and is said to be the originator of Penang's first tau sar pia. No doubt about it, its wonderfully flaky pastries filled with green bean paste are what you need to appease envious friends and colleagues.

For sinful dinners and suppers, head to Gurney Drive (about 5km north-west of Georgetown towards Tanjung Bungah), the island's most popular hawker area from around the 1980s that even the locals still rave about. The open-air food stalls face a balmy seafront promenade and combine great atmosphere with cheap, good food. Prices start from about RM3 for a plate of noodles. It's a one-stop destination for eating your fill of all the signature dishes.

The action starts from around 6pm and continues till about midnight. Don't miss the assam laksa (try stall 54), a sour, spicy version with a hint of tamarind juice and no coconut milk. Or char kway teow; the Penang version is lighter and whiter with less sweet black sauce, but fried with lard, nonetheless ! There's also sotong bakar or barbecued cuttlefish strips you dip in a chilli-peanut sauce (we like stall 68), satay (try stall 23) and otak-otak (stall 63).

While not as colourful as Gurney, the New World Park Food Court (junction of Nagoor Road and Hutton Road, behind Sheraton Hotel) offers more of Penang's favourite foods. All the stalls here used to spill onto the road, but are now organised (and somewhat sanitised) together in this recently-revamped food court. What's famous here are the ice kacang (RM2) and chendol (RM1.50).

You can also find some fine restaurants on the island. Spice & Rice (1 Green Hall, tel: 604261-8585, http://www.spicenrice.com.my), an Indian restaurant, boasts a warm interior combining original 1890s-carved ceiling beams with sleek contemporary furnishings. It has a wide selection of both North and South cuisine. We especially liked the tandoori chicken marinated in a spiced homemade yogurt and cottage cheese sauce (RMI2). "Please appreciate the sauce," the restaurant manager persuades politely, and we did - mopping it up with freshly-made garlic naan (RM5).

If you're looking for a fancy place to celebrate a special occasion, make a reservation at the Feringgi Grill (Shangri- La's Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa, Batu Feringgi Beach, tel: 604888-8888). The continental restaurant's romantic dining area overlooks the ocean and the resort's gardens below through full-height glasswindows. The sigh-inducing view is matched by the impeccable service that manages to illicit "oohs" and "aahs" when our waiter flambes our Steak Dianes in front ofus atthe table. Youmusttrythe steaks (from RM72), the sea scallop carpaccio appetiser (RM42) and Crepe Feringgi (RM30) dessert.

Penang can get really hot. When the heat gets unbearable, we can't think of a better way to escape than to saunter down to the Chi spa in Shangri-La's Rasa Sayang Resort. You'll find Chi, The Spa, in various Shangri-La properties around the world, including Mactan Island in the Philippines and Fiji Islands, and it's made its name as a luxury spa resort destination. This Penang locale is the first in Malaysia.

Drawing inspiration from Tibetan, Himalayan and Chinese healing traditions, Chi is all about the experience and luxury of space to fully immerse your senses. What this means is that you'll have your own treatment villa complete with a cosy private changing suite and personal herbal steam room and bath. Step in, and you're assured complete privacy for a sublime, unhurried experience.

Depending on which treatment you choose, you might also be soaking in a pre-treatment bath of warm coconut milk while sipping chilled tea. Very Cleopatra.

Attention is in the details, from the stretchy disposable underpants provided (no dowdy paper panties, thank you) to the wonderfully soft cashmere-like bathrobe.

Each Chi offers a signature treatment unique to the country. Here, it's the Rasa

Asmaradana massage (RM330) that incorporates indigenous Malay healing and aspects of Chinese acupuncture. The full-body massage starts with the therapist using a hot, steamed herbal pad to knead away those tight muscle knots. Filled with cinnamon and nutmeg, this aromatic pad gives a nod to Penang as nutmeg is one of the island's local delicacies. Besides having it kneaded into your body, you can also have it as a long, cool drink. Why, it seems like in this town, culinary delights are never far from the mind - even while at the spa!

Don't feel like climbing Penang Hill or visiting the touristy Snake Temple? The tropical island boasts alternatives for:

DECOR AND HISTORY BUFFS

It boasts an eclectic mix of Western decorative elements like glass-stained windows with Chinese artisanship and fengshui influences like the liberal use of timber, wood and metal.

The mansion also doubles as a home stay offering 16 bedroom apartments surrounded by landscaped gardens.

NATURE LOVERS

Jalan Kolam Air; Mukim 15, Cherok Tok Kun, 14000 Bukit Mertajam,

PARTY-GOERS