Philadelphia Walking Tour - Day One

Philadelphia is one of the most important cities in this nation's history. Here, in 1776, a 33-year old Virginian named Thomas Jefferson wrote and published the Declaration of Independence, which was, and still remains, the quintessential proclamation of what it means to be an American.

Eleven years and one Revolutionary War victory later, Americans decided it was time, to quote surfer Jeff Spicoli, "to get some cool rules for ourselves. Or else we'll just be bogus, too." That Spicoli was a very wise man.

From the pen of James Madison (with the help of many, including Roger Sherman and Jefferson), came the United States Constitution, which was approved by the delegates to the Constitutional Convention on September 17, 1787.

All of the debate, the discussion, the compromises and the drafting of both of these historic documents took place at Independence Hall, which is perhaps the most appropriate site to begin a walking tour of Philadelphia.

Independence Hall is located on Chestnut Street between Fifth and Sixth Streets on the border of the Olde City and Society Hill neighborhoods. Independence Hall, and its attached outbuildings, Old City Hall and Congress Hall, served as the site that produced the Declaration of Independence, the Constitution and the Articles of Confederation. It also served as the Pennsylvania Capitol Building and as the building where the United States Congress met from 1790 to 1800.

The Hall is open seven days a week, from 9:00 until 5:00, with guided tours available throughout the day. It really is a must see.

598 Chestnut Street, Tel: (215) 597-8974

After getting their fill of Independence Hall, visitors should next explore the tree-lined beauty and historic importance of Independence Mall, which is located outside the front door of Indepndence Hall, bordered by Fifth and Sixth Streets on the east and west, and by Chestnut and Race Streets on the south and north sides, respectively. The Mall contains historic museums and buildings, some lovely shops, and one very famous bell.

1. The Liberty Bell. In 1751, William Penn asked that the new bell being cast for the Pennsylvania Statehouse (i.e. Independence Hall) should be engraved with the words, "Proclaim LIBERTY throughout all the Land unto all the inhabitants thereof." The bell rang to call citizens to the first reading of the Declaration of Independence. However, it was not during its great colonial history that the bell received its famous nickname. No sirree. The bell was dubbed the Liberty Bell by slavery abolitionists, who adopted the bell as a symbol of their fight for freedom for all Americans.

Talks on the history of the bell are presented continually during open hours, which usually range from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p,m, daily.

501 Market Street

2. The National Constitution Center. Explore the Interactive Constitution, a clause-by-clause explanation of the Constitution, providing easy access to basic constitutional facts and interpretation, and searchable by key words and Supreme Court cases. Good for kids, young students and adults, too.

525 Arch Street, Tel: (215) 409-6600

3. The Bourse Building. Constructed in 1890, the Bourse Building was the first commodities exchange in the United States, and served in that capacity until it was shut down in the 1960s. In 1979, the dilapidated building was bought and restored as an office and retail complex. Visitors to the Bourse can grab a quick mid-morning snack, a hot coffee, or a cold beverage. There are also several touristy shops that sell Philadelphia memorabilia and mementos that are above the usual schlocky wares often found in such gift shops.

111 S. Independence Mall, East, Tel: (215) 625-0300

Now it's on to see some really ancient American history.

After exploring the Hall and the Mall, it's now time to see some of the other buildings that served as early banking, military, union, and institutions beginning as early as the mid-1700s. The first stop is located just off Chestnut Street, between 3rd and 4th Streets, and is known as Carpenter's Hall.

Carpenter's Hall was built in 1770. The First Continental Congress met here in September 1774 to draw up a Declaration of Rights and Grievances and an appeal to King George III. This was in response to the Colonies' outrage towards the British Parliament over punishing Massachusetts for the Boston Tea Party. It also served as the meeting place for one of the earliest trade associations in America.

320 S. Chestnut Street. Tel: (215) 925-0167.

Other key stops along the trip are:

1. Located next door to Carpenter's Hall is the New Hall Military Museum, which is devoted to interpreting the role of the military in early American history. The building currently houses exhibits highlighting the origins of the United States Army, Marine Corps and Navy with displays featuring weapons, uniforms, and battle flags.

320 Chestnut Street, Tel: 215-597-8974

2. The next stop is the First Bank of the United States which was chartered by Congress and President Washington in 1791 under the direction of the Treasury Secretary, Alexander Hamilton. Architecturally, the First Bank of the United States building won wide acclaim upon its completion in 1797, and it is believed to be one of the first examples of Classical monumental design. To get here, walk out onto Chestnut Street (which is right next to New Hall) and walk down one block until you reach Third Street, turn right and the Bank is the first building on your right).

116 S. 3rd Street, Tel: (215) 597-8974

3. Walnut Street Gardens. To reach these, walk back out onto Third Street, turn right, go one block and turn right again onto Walnut Street. Adjoining the row of 18th-century colonial homes on Walnut Street between 4th and 5th Streets lies a beautifully appointed and authentically planted 18th-century garden, which re-creates many features of formal gardens from the 1700s. There are neat pathways that lie between geometrically balanced flower beds, small arbors and gazebos which are all characteristic of early Philadelphia gardens.

It is maintained by the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society, and the flowers and shrubs are set out in the beds according to the season. It is spectacular in the spring when the tulips and hyacinths are in bloom, and one may sit in the summer house, a favorite retreat for walkers in this section, to enjoy the prospect in any season.

4. Betsy Ross House, After exploring the Gardens, head back to Third Street, make a left and walk two blocks until you reach Arch Street. From the corner of Third and Arch, you will be able to see the Betsy Ross House, which is generally recognized as the place where Betsy Ross lived with her seven daughters when she sewed the first American Flag. Several of her surviving family members, including great-grandchildren and a niece all said that this was the location of the legendary event.

The front portion of the building was built around 1740, with the stair hall and the rear section added 10 to 20 years later.

In 1937, Philadelphia radio mogul, A. Atwater Kent offered to pay up to $25,000 for the restoration of the house and commissioned historical architect Richardson Brognard Okie to do the work. Kent then purchased the two adjacent properties to develop a "civic garden." In 1941, the entire property, including the historic house and courtyard, were given to the city of Philadelphia. A private nonprofit organization, Historic Philadelphia, Inc., began leasing the property from the City of Philadelphia in 1995 and continues to manage the site to this day.

239 Arch Street. Tel. (215) 686-1252

Walking through the heart of American History will build up a thirst and a hunger in even the heartiest of visitors. Luckily, your morning tour leaves you near the border of Olde City, a 300-year old neighborhood that has been revitalized over the past two decades to become the City's finest restaurant and bar district. There are a number of places to grab a great lunch and a refreshing drink. Here are five suggestions:

The Society Hill Hotel. Pictured above, this small but lively pub specializes in traditional American Pub food, such as burgers, wings, potato skins, hot and cold sandwiches and a veritable plethora of alcoholic beverages to restore your strength and courage for the afternoon leg of the journey. It is located right on the corner of 3rd and Chestnut Streets, and is open from 11:00 a.m. until closing time, around 2:00 a.m.

301 Chestnut Street, Tel: (215) 925-1919

City Tavern. One block further down Chestnut Street lies the storied City Tavern. First constructed in 1772, this restaurant was visited often in 1776 by the likes of John Adams to cool off and relax after a long, hot day of debate and negotiation regarding the forthcoming Declaration of Independence. Food is much heavier and formal here than at the other spots, but it may be the appropriate place to visit during a walking tour of historic Philadelphia.

138 South 2nd Street, Tel: (215) 413-1443

The Plough & the Stars. Located just up 2nd Street -- heading north towards Market Street -- is this gem of an Irish restaurant. The Plough, as it is known to the many locals who visit the pub daily, is located in the former Corn Exchange Building, and is well-appointed with wall frescoes and relief carvings throughout. The food and the vast selection of Irish ales and whiskeys, are top notch, but not cheap. Not cheap at all.

123 Chestnut Street (enter on 2nd Street), Tel: (215) 733-0300

Pizzicato. The perfect place if you have children with you, Pizzicato is located at the corner of 2nd and Market Streets and serves a vast array of delicious, yet affordable gourmet pizzas and basic Italian dishes.

248 Market Street, Tel: (215) 629-5527

Fork. One of the many new returants in Olde City that serve up delicious, fancy, modern dishes. A popular spot the neighborhood's young professionals for happy hours and dinners, Fork simply rocks.

306 Market Street. Tel: (215) 625-9425

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II. BEGIN YOUR AFTERNOON TOUR

The Society Hill neighborhood is loosely defined as the area between Walnut, South, Front and 8th Streets. It contains the largest concentration of original 18th century architecture of any place in the United States and some of the highest property values in the country. Much like Beacon Hill in Boston, Society Hill is noted as a charming district with cobblestone streets bordered by brick rowhouses in Federal and Georgian style.

The district derives its name for the Free Society of Traders in Pennsylvania, a company chartered by Wm. Penn in 1682 to foster commercial development of the colony. Penn granted the Free Society a parcel of land overlooking Dock Creek (now Dock Street) at Front Street, known as "the Society's Hill". This name prevailed even after the demise of the Society itself in 1723 and it continued to identify the community throughout the 18th century.

When the neighborhood was revitalized beginning in 1958, the name "Society Hill" was chosen to honor its colonial roots.

The vast array of architectural styles in Society Hill range from modest colonial-era homes to much larger and more elegant Georgian, Federal, and Greek Revival houses.

Notable Buildings

Physick House. Owned by Phillip Syng Physick, who is known as the "Father of American Surgery." Some of Dr. Physick's patients included Chief Justice John Marshall and future First Lady Dolly Madison. Physick House is the only free standing house in Society Hill.

321 S. 4th Street, Tel: (215) 925-7866

Society Hill Towers. These three residential condominium buildings, located between Wahington Square and the Delaware River, are visible from almost anywhere in the center city. Designed by renowned achitect I.M. Pei in the early 1970s, these towers are an example of some of his finest work.

Headhouse Square is a colonial marketplace located at 2nd & Pine Streets (Tel: (215) 413-3713) in Philadelphia, where historic charm radiates throughout the cobblestone streets. Georgian in design and built in 1803, the Headhouse is a large building located on the outskirts of the market with a weathervane on top. This is where the Market Master used to live and work. His job was to test the overall quality of the goods being bartered to make sure they were on the up and up.

The building also served as a fire engine house for the community, and had alarm bells and a second floor fireman's social club.

Headhouse Square can probably claim the distinction of being the oldest American market still in continual use.

Today, the Headhouse is surrounded by an ecclectic mix of restaurants, local businesses and pubs, inlcuding Philly favorites:

The Artful Dodger

400 S. 2nd Street, Tel: (215) 922-1790

and

Dark Horse (formerly the Dickens Inn)

421 S. 2nd Street, Tel: (215) 928-9307.

The stretch of South Street between Front Street and Seventh Street is known for its bohemian atmosphere and its wide variety of shops and eateries of many different styles. The street is comparable to a large outdoor mall, with the occasional bar and club providing live music. It is one of Philadelphia's largest tourist attractions, and today is mostly frequented by vistors and tourists from other states and/or countries. Here are things to see and do:

Best Drinks: Margaritas at Copabanana. Very, very strong, but still tasty. Have a couple before you venture out onto South Street. It will only enhance the experience. 344 South Street, Tel: (215) 923-6180

Best Fattening Snack: Cheesesteak at Jim's Steaks. You may have to wait, however, because by early afternoon, hungry visitors will be lined up out the door and down 4th street. 400 South Street, Tel: (215) 928-1911

Get a Tattoo! at No Ka Oi Tiki Tattoos and Body Piercing. The best place in Philly to get inked. 610 S. 4th Street, Tel: (215) 925-1766

See Zagar's Murals. Local artist Isaiah Zagar has a very unusual medium and style: he creates mosaic out of such items as chipped pieces of mirror, colored glass and broken pottery. For examples of Zagar's work, see the facade of PhilaDeli at 408 South Street and what is known as the South Street Facade at 1020-22 South Street. You can also visit the shop Zagar started with his wife Julia in 1969 called the Eyes Gallery which has an extensive collection of folk art, ethnic clothing and other unique objects and artifacts. 402 South Street, Tel: (215) 925-0193

Once you've had enough of South Street, odds are that you will be hungry again. So long as it's past 5:30 p.m., you can veer right off South Street at Third, and follow Third Street until it intersects with Catherine Street. Located on the southeast corner of the block is a tiny, 40 seat restaurant called Dmitri's that specializes in Mediterranean, Spanish and Tapas dishes.

At Dmitri's, you can enjoy appetizers including hummus, baba ganoush, steamed baby clams and some of the freshest and spiciest shrimp scampi you will ever taste. For dinner, try the grilled sea scallops, the lamb, or the restaurant's Fresh Fish of the Day.

Dmitri's is a BYOB and desn't take reservations. If you are a beer drinker, there is a bar across the street that serves six-packs to go. If you want wine, you will have to go the Wine & Spirits store at 724 South Street.

795 S. 3rd Street, Tel: (215) 625-0556

Burn off those calories you just accumulated on South Street with a nice evening stroll along Front Street, where you will see: