Postcards from Amazing Bookstores
87After visiting El Ateneo Grand Splendid in Buenos Aires, I took it upon myself to visit The World's 10 Best Bookshops according to The Guardian, or as many as I can at any rate. I'm not sure I'll manage Kyoto, and the jury is out on Los Angeles, but I'm pretty sure I can manage the others on the list that I still haven't seen. Why, we're heading to Porto in September, that's number 3 in The Guardian's list.
El Ateneo Grand Spendid, Buenos Aires, Argentina
This was the first monumentally incredible bookstore I visited, rated #2 by The Guardian. El Ateneo Grand Spendid is just that, an unbelievable bookstore where one is uncertain whether the books are the protagonists or the spectators of a perfectly staged show.
This magnificent building is located at Santa Fe 1860, in La Recoleta district, and it used to be a grand theater a la Scala de Milano, or Barcelona's Liceo. The building as a theater opened in 1919, and was reconverted into a bookstore, preserving all original paintings, boxes, everything, even the stage, in 2000.
Being the book worn that I am, and in spite of my recent year's tendency to give in to the comforts of online shopping, I've been to a significant number of bookstores all over the world. I've visited quaint little businesses seconded in either corners of big cities or small towns that have a very personal touch and treat customers as old friends; I've visited mega bookstores that aren't particularly appealing to my eyes but that I frequent anyway because they pride themselves in carrying anything ever published, and they aren't lying; I've visited specialized bookstores that carry, or can get for you, absolutely everything ever published on a specific subject matter....
I, however, had never before been as fascinated, actually as dumbstruck, for lack of a better word, in any other bookstore I even visited. They say a picture is worth a thousand words, but really, I don't think so. Seeing and experiencing first hand are two different things in some instances, and this is one of them. To be sure, I'm not even certain what this bookstore carries, from what I saw they have a bit of everything, including CDs, postcards, and other memorabilia, but I couldn't really focus much on what was actually IN there, I just couldn't get over the THERE itself, and kept looking around like a totally unsophisticated tourist, camera in hand and all.
The boxes have been turned into reading spaces, and some armchairs and coffee tables are arranged close to the stage for the same purpose. One can just grab a book and sit there –I realize this isn't unique, I just never had the pleasure of having a reading space it in a more delightful atmosphere. The stage itself is a coffee and restaurant, you can also take your books to browse them there, or you can simply sit down to have a bite and see the show. You'll be on a real stage, curtains and all, but you'll never feel watched, because the real show happens off stage, in the orchestra and mezzanine.
If you're ever in Buenos Aires be sure not to miss this bookstore. Buying a book there is a plus, it will be a great reminder of a fabulous space, not that it'll be easy to forget it even if you walk out bookless.
Posada, Brussels, Belgium
Posada is nothing like the grand show presented by Buenos Aires' pride and joy of a bookstore. This is, however, the best bookshop in the world when it comes to art books, and the reason it made it to #7 on The Guardian's list.
This absolutely adorable bookstore features art books of any variety, size, shape, language, specialty, branch, publishing house and year, you name it, if it's art, they have it or get it for you.
Posada is housed in a typical Brussels abode, in Magdalenasteenweg 29, sitting on three completely book-packed floors that smell of old paper, second-hand (or who-knows-how-many-hands) editions, and old habits. It reminded me a bit of Shakespeare & Company, the famous Paris bookstore.
The nicest thing about Posada for this visitor was its bookstore around the corner feel to it. We struck a conversation with a young and enthusiastic employee, half in French, half in English, and he was that typical helpful guy in your neighborhood bookstore, downplaying the fact that his bookstore featured in the list of The World's Ten Best Bookshops, but displaying enormous pride in the fact that if it's art, they will have it or find it, no matter what or where it is.
This charismatic bookstore was a charming place to visit, very handy too, since it was 5 doors from our hotel in Brussels!
Selexyz Dominicanen, Maastrich, Netherlands
According to The Guardian, this is number 1, the best bookshop in the world. Evidently, I was prepared to be bowed by such a wonder, and that's maybe the reason why I wasn't as mesmerized as I should have been, but don't get me wrong and make no mistake, this is a most amazing bookstore, and I took plenty of photos to prove it!
This Dominican Church completed in 1294 is now a temple of a different sort, books are now the gods to be adored and, let me tell you, I found it quite ironic that an institution like the church, who single handedly burnt not only many books but also many writers back in its hey day, houses now such a magnificent collection of literature, including a very nifty stand for Angels and Demons by the (in)famous Dan Brown. Like I said, ironic.
Curiously, this fabulous piece of architecture sitting smack in the middle of Maastrich's old district was "abandoned" for a few years and served as a parking lot for bikes, the popular transportation method in the Netherlands.
Back to the feelings I experienced when entering this breathtaking space, I would say it didn't bow me as El Ateneo Grand Splendid because of its setup. This is a converted church, but the books aren't an integral part of the architecture, they are set aside from the scenery. I believe this was done on purpose, and was very well achieved at that, the modern metal modular structure in the nave poses a striking contrast to the massive walls, the gothic arches and the ever present stained glass windows. It's like the interior designers wanted the visitors to make no mistakes between the house and its inhabitants.
I found that a major difference with El Ateneo, where the books --as I explained above, are completely integrated with the whole structure, they may be considered the spectators or the actors, but either way they are very much part of their home, and the visitor feels in the middle of a perfectly staged show. In fact, in El Ateneo, it wouldn't be the same without the books, it's the whole package that makes this an incredible bookstore.
In Selexyz Dominicanen one is in a church where books are on display and sold, but one doesn't feel like a mass will be conducted at any minute. As said, I believe this was done on purpose, and correctly so. Still, I'm of a mind to write to The Guardian and kindly tell them my slightly biased opinion on their mistaken ranking for bookstores #1 & #2. After thanking them for their wonderful list, of course!
In any event, as you can see below in the many photos I took, this is an amazing space, featuring books of any kind –they don't specialize in anything and carry a bit of everything as El Ateneo. This bookworm is elated to have visited the two best bookstores in the world in the span of six months. Amen.
The World's Best Bookstore in Photos
As I said above... AMEN!
Shakespeare & Company, Paris, France
This isn't in The Guardian's list, but I'm sending a postcard from it just the same, because I simply adore this place, where the smell of old paper is probably the most powerful of any bookstore I ever visited. This is a bookstore, all right, but so much more, too, it's really an institution in Paris. It used to house writers and students –some of the cots can still be seen in the upper floors, it also hosts book and literary clubs, weekly poetry readings and discussions, and all sorts of activities that keep the place young after its 58 years of life.
Shakespeare & Company sits on the Seine's Left Bank just in front of Notre Dame, and its website here linked offers plenty of further information if you are interested. For book and pet lovers, click on the Pets link and you'll see a collection of cute photos. Don't think they are just for display, S & C welcomes pets and it's going to be a cold day in hell when you visit and don't find at least one dog and one cat (at least!) lounging in the reading chairs.
Take a look at these joys
I hope you enjoyed the virtual tour of some of the best bookstores in the world. I certainly enjoyed the real tour of them!
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Comments
WOOOOOWWWWW! This was a great hub, it's beyond postcards. The way you described each - in the unique way that you do - I could almost smell the books and the establishments!
Awesome pictures as usual! (but I'm looking for rooftops! LOL)
Btw, glad to see you back mi amiga, besos! :D
Excellent Elena, think one of the nicest bookstores I visited was in London in Charing Cross Road
Hey, guys! I'm back from an awesome trip ... as you can see :-)
Feline, I hear you, oh how I hear you. I died & went to heaven three times on this trip, plus once back in November 08'! Laugh!
Cindy, I don't know which one you mean, but since Charing Cross Road is well know for hosting many second hand bookstores and the couple I've been to were marvelous :-) Glad you enjoyed the tour!
Cris, hello to you! You would simply adore Posada, I just know it! And about rooftops, some are forthcoming, I visited 2 in Istanbul, 1 in Paris and 1 in Berlin, that together with at least one and maybe two in Madrid will make for some nice postcards with a view :-) Why, I think I just got myself a title for a hub! Laugh!
Hi Elena - Glad that you enjoyed your trip! You have made me very jealous - those places look awesome, and I hope to visit some of them. I have been to Borders in Glasgow, and it is a small piece of heaven on Earth!
If you ever visit Dublin, there is a wonderful bookshop/cafe called The Winding Stair - a great place to spend a day reading, looking out over the Ha'penny Bridge.
Hey, Sufi! Would you believe I've been in Dublin about 100 times in the past few years and still haven't managed to go the TWS?! Shocking, to say the least! I'm slowly getting around to visit Dublin sites when I go on business, I shall do my best to mark that cafe off my list! :-)
Elena you got some great pics! Did you ever see the Twilight Zone episode where the book worm, bank employee, is reading his book in the vault during his break when a bomb destroys all of civilization. He's left with all the time in the world to read his books no interuptions, but then steps on his glasses.
Hello, Randy, you sexy hips you! Never caught that episode, I've only ever seen a few of the Twilight Zone episodes, and I wouldn't be so lucky as to catch this one. Would that be terrible luck or what, stepping on his glasses! Laugh!
Well worth it, Elena - it is many years since I visited, but they make great coffee and you are welcome to pick a book off the shelf and have a read whilst you are there. Have a pint of Guinness for me next time you are there - Would you be interested in a job-swap for a couple of months? All of that travelling to interesting places must get you down ;)
Elena: I loved visiting with you virtually. I know, just know, if I were to sit in of the bookstores your shared, I would be in book heaven. I always look for bookshops to relax, and went to a simple B&N yesterday, purchased two books by Osho; I feel a trip into town is complete after visiting a bookstore.
I gotta get out of America! All we have is the corporate bookstores anymore. Fabricated energy, everything with pretty covers.
That's an amazing tour and that picture with a typewriter, I could imagine myself there, with the energy of all those books, just pounding away at it.
Nice to see ya around, this place is nutso futso right now.
Hi VioletSun! Very glad you enjoyed the virtual tour! I thought if anybody would like these amazing places that'd be the readers and writers at HP :-)
Hello, Golden! You have number 4 of The Guardian's list right there in LA, it's called Secret Headquarters comic bookstore. As I said in the hub I'm not sure I'll return to LA "just" to see #4, so maybe you can go and tell me all abut it? :-)
I think you would love it in Shakespeare and Company, well, you'd probably love it in any of these places really.
Good to be back home, got to catch up with your stuff --though I read here and there that stuff is being taken down... will have to see what's what around here. Besos!
What wonderful photos! I loooooooove bookstores! There is nothing more empowering to me than to walk into a bookstore. So much knowledge, so much imagination spun into words that can take you anywhere and teach you anything. Gives me goosebumps! Thanks for sharing Elena, glad you had a good trip!
KCC, same here, I just love bookstores, even though these days I do much of my book shopping online, I do find something magic in bookstores, and these are just from out of this world!
Wow this is a great Hub, makes me want to go travelling just to see those bookstores. I think incredible bookstores like these are more relevant than they've ever been in this digital age, bringing home the sense of wonder and grandeur - and even magic - that can be found in the printed page.
Hello, friedrichshain! You're right, these wondrous bookstores become even more relevant now in the era of digital comms! You would love them, I'm sure!
Amazing! I heard you talking about these bookshops, but seeing the pics make me realize what an amazing places they are! Well done.
Hola, Gloria! I took pics for the incredulous & skeptical types! :-) It's good to be back...not so great to be back AT WORK, though!
Fabulous pictures Elena, and what an unusual idea for a hub. Churches and opera houses. Who'd have thought it! I'm a sucker for a good book store myself, and being a University town, Brighton has some great book shops, although nothing quite like those you're describing here. Have you ever been to the book festival at Hay-on-Wye? That's quite an experience too.
Elena, pictures of those bookshops and your narrative is the nicest gift anyone could ever bring us from a trip. wowwwwwwwww.... Think my heart stopped for a second on seeing the first pic. Was truly like an unexpected peek at heaven. wowwwwww....
The Guardian needs to rethink its rating process. I'm with you...they definitely have #1 and #2 turned around. An opera house filled with books...it doesn't get any better than that. Makes me salivate just thinking about it.
Welcome back!
Thanks, Amanda! They are wonderful, aren't they! Now that you mention it, this content is a bit unusual, must be on account of the world being in the digital era, as friedrichshain commented above. Never been to that book festival, and I'm hesitant to google it out, least I find myself with even more places to visit BID (before I die... laugh!)
Jama! Hello to you! And thanks for your nice comment! I was hoping someone here at HP saw it my way about #1 & #2 ... then again, the way I told it, I was bound to get some nods! Laugh! At any rate, if you can/have to choose only one of these to visit, go to Buenos Aires :-)
Elena, the festival is on right now: http://www.hayfestival.com/wales/
Hay-on-Wye is famous for it's book stores. Every other shop seems to sell books! Maybe you could put it on your list!
Amanda, you temptress, you! Arghhhh. To click or not to click, that is the question! Laugh! I will click, of course I will! Or maybe I'll ask my SO to do the deed and report back. AY! :-)
Amanda - I have always wanted to go there, but I have a feeling that I would get hammered for excess baggage with the hundreds of books that I would buy.
It's a really delightful place Sufi, but I can see your dilemma!
Yes Sufi, there is that, isn't there? Then again, they probably can and will ship the books for you :-)
Unfortunately, my partner would kill me - I go completely mad in bookstores and would spend my last Euro - Why eat when you have books!
Great hub and fantastic places! Unfortunately not so many of good bookstores in New York. But I've been to Hatchards in London (it is on the Gardian list) and it absolutely great store and I am sure you would love it too....
Thanks, Wanderlust! I wish I'd know of Hatchards on my last visit to London (Feb 08'), now I'll just *have to* schedule a new visit... oh, the duress! :-)
These photos are truly amazing, Elena. Thanks so much for sharing them. This collection makes the Barnes & Noble in my town look really dull and sad. How I love bookstores and libraries with character!
Hi, Susan! I'm glad you visited :-) These bookstores make pretty much ANY other look dull indeed! They say the beauty that counts is the one inside -- for a bookstore that would be the books, right? But these places make me wonder!! Laugh!
What a great read - I savoured every moment and could just smell those books, the paper. Surely kindle can't beat this. I've been to Shakespeare and Company a few times - but not for some years. I feel a trip north coming on.
I can't begin to comment on El Ateneo - I'm gob-smacked in wonder that such a place exists this side of death.
I'm
SO
JEALOUS
I grew up in bookstores, but these are fabulous.
It exists this side of death, Iphi (what a great line, BTW!), and if there's anything on the other side, I hope something like this exists there, too!
Shakes and Co is wonderful, I can't help but go every time I'm in Paris! If you go up north, how about a train to Maastrich? :-)
Teresa - Don't be jealous, be a vicarious traveler here with me & my photos! Plus, you're "close" (in a manner of speaking!) to El Ateneo GS, and it's #1 in my heart, so there's always time... this side of death! :-)
I love all the book stalls in Madrid, but holy smoke that Ateneo is gorgeous. (I also like the look of the superb ribbed vault ceilings in Selexyz Dominicanen). I was in Shakespeare and Co. once, but probably couldn't afford to buy anything at the time. . .
great photos, thanks, Elena.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2339/2041692326_812
http://www.virtourist.com/america/san-francisco/im
http://www.gazette.uwo.ca/.%2F2005%2F09%20Septembe
Some images of City Lights in San Francisco, one of my favorites. A tiny return on the magnificent trip you've taken me on.
I have often thought of a trip around the world to eat, have joked about one to discover good-looking men in many countries - but why, oh, why, I of all people didn't think of a tour of bookstores before this, I'll never know! Bet someone could make a fortune on the idea. (Any takers?)
I can only repeat what Jama says: Thanks for an unexpected and deeply moving peek at heaven.
My pleasure, MindField! Methinks I was in City Lights last time I was in San Francisco, oh so many years ago, but the place is so well known that I may be imagining my being there once :-) Anyhow, glad you enjoyed!
Wow!! I can say that I have not been to any of them but would love to visit them all. ")
Hey, AEvans! Exactly my feelings after first visiting El Ateneo. I thought, "I've got to see those other 9 places"! And that's what I'm doing, who knows how long it'll take me or if I'll manage to complete the list! :-)
Elena,
This hub just gave me warm fuzzy feelings. I am an avid reader, and have been since I was a child. Currently, I have probably over 1000 books, half or more of which I haven't read yet. Books are one of my passions. It doesn't matter to me that I have books to read, when I'm out and about there is nothing better then going to a bookstore. I somehow don't feel complete if I don't buy a new book, or old, as the case may be.
I spent many years buying on Ebay, and found one or two sellers who sold vintage books/magazines. I have a nice but small collection of beautiful old books from the late 1800s. The books have the most gorgeous covers, and my collection boasts pictures of lovely Victorian ladies on the covers. It was always a thrill waiting for my treasures to arrive.
However, there is nothing I love more than an old, musty, dusty bookstore. I frequent a combination junk/antique store that houses the most amazing things, and of course, their small room filled with books is my favorite part.
Your pictures are beautiful and the one that strikes my fancy the most is Shakespeare and Company. I also love the picture of the old typewriter. Great job!
I'm with Sufi on this, why buy food when you can buy books? :) I too, saw the Twilight Zone episode that Randy mentioned. Horrors! To me that is a fate worse than death LOL.
Thanks so much for this hub, it makes me want to run out to the bookstore :)
Hello, Trish! It was my pleasure putting this together, as it was to visit these fabulous bookstores :-) I love books mightily, and like you and Sufi I'd probably skip a meal or two in exchange for a book, but I fear I'd eventually give in to hunger! Laugh!
Hi Elena,
I think perhaps Sufi's idea has given me a reason to lose weight. Every time I run to the fridge, I should just turn around and run out to a book store. I'd satisfy my hunger for reading instead of packing on the pounds LOL
That's a novel idea, Trish! Quick, patent it, before someone (like Sufi!) snatches it from under your nose! Laugh!
I find it sad that these cathedrals, lovingly and beautifully constructed over hundreds of years, are no longer used for the purpose for which they were built.
That said, I have nothing but praise for your Hub. The photographs are fantastic and I love books. I am going to keep these stores in mind and hopefully I can walk in your footsteps some day. I enjoyed this Hub immensely!
Thanks, James! Here's to your visit to these mighty places some day.
Regarding the conversion of some of these old churches to other types of establishments, I personally favor the reuse, which doesn't have anything to do with my total lack of any kind of beliefs, but has a lot to do with preserving the patrimonial riches of old Europe :-)
Oh, yes. They converted that one beautifully and I agree it is good to find a use for them rather than tearing them down.
Amazing! I want to be in every one of them at the same time. There's nothing for miles around here even remotely close to this worldly! Thanks for sharing!
De rien, WhiskeyChick! There's nothing like this in my city and I wonder in my country, I certainly don't know of any such magnificent bookstore in Spain. Well, I know of 3 that are similar to Shakespeare and Company, but nothing as grandiose as El Ateneo or Selexyz Dominicanen -- these two are unique in THE WORLD :-) I had to travel quite far to see them :-)
hey man that was really really nice.i hope you will create one more like these.
Mobmani, I've a few more graphic hubs so feel free to browse, but I can hardly report on more bookstores because these are the only ones I've visited! :)
Those are some absolutely amazing bookstores! I can spend hours at just about any store no matter how big or small.
Aren't they just incredible, Dan? One goes bananas in these establishments, not sure if to look at the contents or the containers! :-)
I've been to El Ateneo and it is indeed incredible. Cool hub.
Isn't it, Woodson! I hear the one in Porto, #3, is also out of this world. Had plans to visit it in September, but that has moved to ... August! :-)
The pictures alone make me want to get in my car and take a trip. Thanks for a great hub!
Thanks tdarby! You should do that, reality is even more spectacular than the photos :-)
As a bookseller, I found this a most interesting hub. I'm going to post the link to my booksellers' email list. Someone posted the pictures of the Netherlands bookstore there already, but not the others. I also am posting this to the links pages of my main website. Great hub!
Cooli-o WannaB Writer -- can I get on that list? :-)
And stay tuned as I'm going to visit bookstore #3 in The Guardian's compilation in a couple of weekends, Porto there I go! I'm most certainly doing another article on that one!
If you don't like corporate bookstores, don't support them! It's that simple. Pay the buck or two extra and support local mom and pop stores and the U.S. will once again have fabulous, dreamy bookshops.
Seems you're preaching to the converted here, Bookseller? :-)
Wonderful hub! A bit lost for words.. the smell of the bindings....
Smell of old paper is powerful in Shakes & Co and Posada, not so much in the other two fave bookstores, but those moe than over with looks :-)
This is by far the nicest of any hub I have seen this week. My number One hub so far. Well done indeed. I missed it so many times - I wonder why. Sometimes things just happen. Thanks for this
Glad you enjoyed the virtual visit, J Rosewater. I'm very fond of this hub myself, it's a personal favorite :)
Feline Prophet says:
6 months ago
Oh my...I feel like I've died and gone to readers' heaven! What fabulous places, and you've actually been in them and smelt the books? Sigh...