PALAWAN

Once connected to Borneo, the large, finger-shaped island of Palawan is understandably different from the rest of the Philippines. Most of the rest of the country is virtually wildlife-free, but Palawan teems with bizarre beasts ranging from the scaly anteater and Palawan bearcat to the stink badger. Instead of volcanoes, the island has limestone cliffs similar to those of China and Vietnam. Palawan takes pride in its cultural preservation as well. While most of the Philippines hurtles toward modernity, it seems as though Palawan has remained frozen in time; outside Puerto Princesa, electricity and running water are rare. More than 80 tribes, untouched rainforest, and incomparably beautiful beaches earn Palawan its title: "The Last Frontier."

PUERTO PRINCESA      

The lone urban outpost in Palawan, Puerto Princesa has become environmentally conscious, ferociously fending off loggers from the wilderness and protect­ing its several indigenous cultures. The cleanest city in the Philippines, "Puerto" levies heavy fines on lit-terers. At least one night here is needed to stock up on supplies and funds, which are lacking elsewhere, but cafes, restaurants, and bustling bars often lure travelers to linger longer on the island.

SIGHTS

The Kamarlkutan Kape at Galeri, on Rizal Ave. near the airport, provides an interesting glimpse at local art. The airy complex, constructed in Palawan and Ifugao styles, exhibits area artists, (Open daily 8am-llpm.) The Pal­awan Museum, at the corner of Rizal Ave. and Valencia St. behind Mendoza Park, places the island in historical and cultural context. Its collection includes artifacts from the Tabon Caves, the "Cradle of Philippine Civiliza­tion." Their library contains books on Palawan. (Open M-Sa Sam-noon and 1:30-Bpm, Su 9-llam) At the western end of Rizal Ave., by the cathedral, a memorial marks where 143 US POWs were herded into a tunnel, doused with gasoline, and set on fire by Japanese captors on December 15, 1944. Eleven men survived by jumping off the cliff and swim­ming across the bay. Supporting the local ethno-environmental craze, Culture Shack, on Rizal Ave. opposite Bayantel, sells cashew wine, basketry, and clothing. (Open M-Sa 8-.40am-7:40pm.)

ACTIVITIES

Tubbataha Reef, 150km southeast of Puerto Princesa, is the archipelago's most sought-after dive site. Its remote location and limited accessibility (Mar.-June) make a trip to the reef difficult, but the certainty of spotting large marine life draws divers nonetheless. Queen Anne Divers  on P.B.O. Rd., at the Trattoria Inn, operates two dive ships to Tubbataha Reef (5-7 days;; must be booked 6 months in advance). Queen Anne also runs trips to Busuanga and the Coron Islands (which are famous for their Japanese wrecks), daytrips to reefs off the southern coast near Puerto Princesa (2-dive packages with lunch and boat with rentals, and PADI courses (open-water, advanced open-water). Island Divers, 371 Rizal Ave., brings divers to south­ern Puerto Princesa Bay around Pete's Reef, Light House, and Table Head (2-dive daytrip) and offers PADI courses Open M-F 8am-5pm.)

NIGHTLIFE

Most Filipinos won't let foreigners sneak out of Puerto Princesa's numerous karaoke joints without wailing a song, but for a night free from the spotlight, the cozy Tom-Tom Club on Manalo Extn. leaves the music to the professionals. Nick's Venue, in the Admiral Hotel on Rizal Junction, is the main hotspot for Palawan's 20-something partiers. (Open daily 8pm-2am.) Spice Bar & Disco, on Rizal Ave., also keeps the crowd hopping until after midnight.