A leaky roof on your RV, whether it is a large motor home or a small tow-behind model, is the most destructive of problems faced by may owners.  A small unnoticeable roof leak will gradually spread out to other sections of the unit’s body, both walls and floor structures.  This is why it is so important for an owner to visually inspect the roof several times a year.  The reason for this frequent inspection is because many units are only used a few times a year, therefore a leak may spread quickly with no one to notice the beginnings of a ceiling stain.  If your unit is under a shelter of some sort this is not applicable as your RV roof will last many times longer than one which sits out in the weather.

The following tips will help you visually inspect your unit's roof for leaks.

A small unit may be inspected without having to get on the roof and in fact, it is recommended you never stand on an older camper’s roof as many weren’t built to support heavy weight.  Any repairs to these types of roofs may be safely accomplished by placing planks across the top of the unit with the walls supporting the weight.  Just be sure the walls themselves are not water damaged and can support the weight.  Try to stay as close to the side of the unit as you can while inspecting or performing repairs to the roof.

There are several types of roofing materials used for RV roof coverings with each requiring different techniques for maintenance and repair.  We will start with the older types and move on to the newer types.  The “oldie-but-goodie” tow behind camping trailers of yesteryear are still around with some becoming highly sought for restoration and investment.  Old Airsteam, Avion, Serro Scotty, and other less well known but still classic models, are frequently spotted being towed by equally classic restored cars and trucks.  The Airstream and Avion roof material requires special repairs not usually done by the amateur, so repairs for these units will not be included.

The roof material on most older units consisted of sheet aluminum attached to 2x2’s reaching from one side of the unit to the other.  These 2x2’s attach to the side walls and also form a base to attach the ceiling to.  On some of these 2x2’s the roof sheeting may meet which requires annual sealant application to ensure watertight sealing.  The sides of the sheeting are usually screwed down the same way and require the same sealant applications.  It is not unusual for holes to be punched into this thin roofing material by falling limbs or other debris.  Fortunately these can be easily repaired.

If the hole is more than an inch in diameter it may be best to cover it with a small piece of aluminum sheeting.  Cut the patch larger than the hole, use putty tape or other non-hardening putty around the edges, and use self taping screws to secure the patch to the roof.  Smaller holes can be patched with sticky backed aluminum such as Peel N Seal roof repair tape.  The sheet metal screws which hold the sheeting down need to be sealed annually by coating them with a flexible rubber or plastic coating to prevent leaks caused by the flexing of the roof and body while the unit is being moved to or from the next campsite.

The newer camping units may use a rubber sheeting over the aluminum covering to insure waterproofing the roof.  Once again, annual inspection and preventive maintenance is important to keep the roof in good shape.  There are products made especially for these types of roof materials and will protect and repair rubber roof coverings.  Pay close attention to the area around roof mounted A/C units and any other vents used for gas refrigerators, air ventilation, or plumbing fixtures.  There are kits made just for replacing this rubber roof material available from RV dealers and suppliers.  Annual application of a good sealant coating will save you possibly thousands of dollars in the long run. 

Complete inspection of the roof includes checking the inside of the  RV along the walls where the roof sheeting is attached to the edges.  This interior inspection may include having to look inside cabinets and closets to see if water damage is apparent along the top sides of all walls.  Discoloration of the ceiling or walls indicates a present or past leak has occurred.  If the discoloration is slight a simple sealing application may solve the problem.  Rotting or mildewed wood indicated a serious need for repairs.

Check the top of the unit to ascertain the location of vents, A/C units or any other item which entails waterproofing.  Check these same items on the inside to be sure they are still water tight.  Many motor homes use vinyl stripping to cover the screws on the upper exterior of the unit.  These strips do not last forever and tend to crack and fall out of the retaining groove eventually.  Replacement strips can be purchase at many RV and camper trailer repair sites.  These leaks are often hard to detect and it is a good idea to replace all of the stripping every five years or so. 

Another hard to detect leak area is around the running lights.  These lights use a rubber gasket to seal between the light fixture itself and the body of the unit.  New gaskets or an annual sealing using silicone caulk will usually solve this problem.  This type of leak may go undetected and cause deterioration to walls and floors.

Repairs on a camping units roof can run into thousands of dollars if the owner does not catch the leaks in time.  Preventive maintenance is usually easy and relatively inexpensive to perform by most owners having basic skills.  Just like our real homes, these recreational units need love and care to provide you with the best possible use.  Happy camping.