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Rolex Bezels

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By James Montgomery

Rolex manufactures five basic types of bezels:

  • polished
  • domed
  • fluted
  • rotatable
  • gemstone-set


a flashier variant from the 1980s: a "Pyramid" diamond bezel
a flashier variant from the 1980s: a "Pyramid" diamond bezel

Being a watch purist at heart, I have a special affinity for clean, smooth and sleek bezels, except in sports watches where more of a heavy-duty bezel is required.

The bezel, as you no doubt know, is the surface ring on the watch that surrounds and holds the crystal in place, so its function is not purely decorative.


The rotatable bezel is the most functional. It is used on the sports models such as Cosmograph Daytona, Explorer II, Submariner Date, Sea-Dweller, and GMT-Master II. On the Daytona, known as a "racing watch," the rotatable bezel acts as a tachometer, whereas on the Explorer II, the graduated bezel helps the wearer to distinguish day from night.

Of course, these sturdy and rugged graduated bezels would look totally out of place on dressier watches, which do not require the wearer to race cars or climb mountains.

As I said, I favour simple and unadorned bezels, preferably in steel, white gold or platinum. One watch I particularly like is Rolex's Air-King with a stainless steel polished bezel that contrasts beautifully with a blue dial. As far as I am concerned that is one very handsome design. A lot of models in Datejust and Day-Date lines feature either polished or domed bezels - simple yet very elegant.

Of course, if you prefer watches with a bit more panache to them, fluted bezels lend a dash of dazzle. They look like tiny ruffles around the dial, and there is no shortage of those in the Rolex collection. Check the Datejust, Lady Datejust or Day-Date lines and see how a fluted bezel jazzes up the watch. It is not my personal favourite, but I still like it more than bezels bedecked in gemstones.

And yes, Rolex has its share of watches with glitzy bezels, in both women's and men's models. The material used to adorn the bezels are brilliants, which may look like diamonds but are nothing more than tiny rhinestones. If you like this look, you will probably find Orchid and Cellissima watches in the Cellini line, or a number of watches in the Datejust, Lady Datejust, and Lady Datejust Pearlmaster collections alluring.

One model I absolutely do not like is the Daytona featuring the bezel encrusted with blue gemstones. I said it before and I shall say it again -- to me such a glitzy model is incongruous with motor racing. But maybe I am just missing something!

There is one model with a brilliants-set bezel that I do find quite fetching. It is a tonneau-shaped Cellissima watch in the Cellini line. I like it because it appeals to my sense of simplicity and muted elegance: the bracelet is a dark green leather strap and the watch is made from white 18-carat gold. Despite the brilliants on the bezel - used quite sparingly, I am relieved to say -- there is nothing flashy or ostentatious about this watch. I suppose it only goes to prove that there is exception to every rule, and that there is a way of combining a bit of glitter with good taste.


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hankbauer51@yahoo.com  says:
10 months ago

I agree smooth domed bezel is the coolest and a great way to update Dad's datejust . Who deals in genuine used replacements, if anyone?

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