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Rolex Lady Datejust Pearlmaster

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By James Montgomery

If you think no watch can get any dressier than some of the models in Rolex's Lady DateJust collection, just look at its Pearlmaster line.


The Pearlmaster in Tridor (above), and her more subtle sister (below)
The Pearlmaster in Tridor (above), and her more subtle sister (below)

Refers to the bracelet, not the dial

Although some watches feature either pink or white mother-of-pearl dials - bringing a sparkle and luminosity to the watch -- the "Pearlmaster" is the name of the bracelet, not the dial.

Much finer than the Oyster wristband, and not quite as busy as the Jubilee, the Pearlmaster features closely woven chunks of 18-carat white or yellow gold, or the combination of the two with pink gold called "Tridor," the French abbreviation of "three golds" (trio d'or).

You might say that combining all three in a single watch is too much of a good thing, and to be honest, some of the Pearlmaster models are a tad "overdressed," at least for my simple taste.

There is, for example, one model in white gold, with the sapphire-studded bezel encircling the white mother-of-pearl dial with diamond hour markers, and the bracelet set with brilliants and sapphires.


Opulent style

Is it the most ostentatious watch in the Rolex Lady Datejust collection? You might think so, but in fact it's a close call with another over-the-top model in yellow gold with the diamond-paved dial, and the brilliants-encrusted bracelet.

If you like really head-turning, resplendent watches that shimmer with gemstones, these models will not disappoint. But if you like simpler elegance, you might prefer another watch in the Pearlmaster line: in white gold, with black Roman numerals offset by the plain white dial, and surrounded by the bezel with brilliants (the same model is available in yellow gold). The stones on the bezel are used sparingly, so the overall look of this watch is cleaner and less fussy.

Like all watches in Rolex's Datejust line, the Pearlmaster models have a date display, are self-winding, and waterproof up to 300 feet (100 metres).

If you favour a simpler design, more understated women's models in platinum or white gold - in Rolex's Cellini line, for example -- would probably fit your tastes better.

But if you enjoy a truly bold, dazzling and ornate look, the Pearlmaster is a real gem of a watch.


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