This is perhaps the perfect painting method for the novice hobbyist. Though this method typically requires two people it is easy and provides professional looking results. In fact I've used this method, compared it to sprayed paint, and could not tell the difference.

Roll and tip requires some basic tools. Some you probably already own. it mainly takes careful preparation, plenty of time, and patience. In fact the biggest error typically made with this method is rushing the job.

First, you should only paint when the weather permits. This is assuming, of course, that you do not have a large climate controlled area to paint in.

Your ambient temperatures should be between sixty (60°) and ninety-five (95°) degrees Fahrenheit. Or eighteen (18°) to thirty-five (35°) degrees Celsius.

Your relative humidity should no more than 65 percent. Contrary to popular opinion this has nothing to do with the paint drying and everything to do with how it looks when dry. Relative humidity above seventy percent will cause the paint to dry "cloudy" from the trapped moisture.

You should not paint in direct sunlight. Also, wind conditions should be mild to calm. Direct sunlight will cause the surface of the paint to harden too soon and windy conditions will virtually guarantee that a bug, a leaf, or dirt spoils your hard work.

A friend of mine used this method and was dismayed when his perfect job was marred by a bird that decided to check out his fresh paint-job. He tells me it took him four hours, after the paint dried, to get bird foot prints out of his paint-job.

For a first class paint job you'll need the following tools. A detailed explanation on their use follows.

• Sandpaper (100 to 400 grit)
• Tack Rag
• Stirrers
• Containers
• Cone Filters
• Paint (of course)
• Thinner (for the paint)
• Solvent (for cleanup)
• Roller (with extra roller covers; solvent resistant)
• Brushes
• Masking Tape
• Gloves
• Eye protection

A number of things need to be done to the surface to get the best coating. If there is already a layer of paint you'll want to at least wet-sand.

Wet-sanding, as the name implies, involves water and sandpaper. You'll want a very fine grit of sand paper like 1000 or higher. This paper is specially formulated to be immersed in water. The water holds the particles that have been sanded off of the paint in suspension. Every so often use a wash cloth or clean rag and squeeze water over the surface you are sanding to "flush" away the loose particles. You should be able to tell when you are getting a nice smooth finish. You can also occasionally wipe the surface dry to check for a hazy finish. This is what you want.

If the surface is unpainted Fiber Reinforced Plastic (FRP) you are going to want to use a lower grit sand paper, 400 grit or so, and sand in different directions with the paper attached to a sanding block. Regular sanding (not wet) is advised for an un-coated surface. An unpainted surface should be painted with a primer coat first. A good primer provides an excellent bond between the raw material to be painted and the actual finish paint that will be seen.It also provides and additional layer of water protection.

Once dry the primer coat should be wet-sanded.

Once you've got the surface to be painted properly sanded you want to make sure that none of the particles created by the sanding will be trapped in the paint.

First, I recommend blowing the surface clean with compressed air or using a bench brush to clear away most of the debris. Next, use a clean dry rag and window cleaner to get any grease or finger oil off of the surface. Finally, with a fresh rag, use denatured alcohol to ready the surface for paint. Be sure to turn the rag often to present a clean side to the surface you are cleaning. Use a fresh clean rag for each step above.

Next, and for most this step is unnecessary, use distilled water on a fresh clean cloth to wipe away any other debris. I take this extra step and have never regretted it.

Let the surface dry completely.I do not recommend "blow-drying" with an airgun since this has the effect of putting dust and dirt into the air. And where does that settle? You know!

Next you will want to apply masking tape to those areas that you don't want paint on. I recommend painters masking tape as it has a very straight edge and is easy to distinguish from paint due to it's bright blue color.

Masking tape has a number of properties that make it ideal for painting applications.

• Uses a weak adhesive and is easy to remove
• Has straight edges
• Is stretchy and so can be made to form curves
• Is a good barrier to paint and will not let paint leach through.

Be sure the tape conforms to all of the curves in the areas to be protected. If larger areas need to be protected you can use sheet plastic (held in place with masking tape) or what's called "craft" paper. Warehouse and hardware stores carry rolled "craft" paper that is thin, about a foot wide, and comes in rolls many yards long. This paper has a nice straight edge as well and also repels paint.

As you finish taping an area fold the free end back on itself to create a tab that can be easily lifted away from the job for ready tape removal.

Now that you have your surface prepared mix the paint according the manufacturers recommendations. Be sure to take the ambient temperature and humidity into account.

Once you have the paint prepared in the mixing container you will want to strain it into a new clean container.

Use a cone shaped paint strainer and slowly pour your prepared paint through it into the clean container. This will do two things. It will trap any large particles the manufacturer might have missed and knock out any air bubbles that might have formed during mixing.

Now you are ready to paint.

You might want to get that last sip of water (or whatever) or trip to the bathroom out of the way. From this point on you will not want to stop until you are finished with the paint.

About 80% to 90% of your time has been spent preparing the surface. The next 10% ~ 20% will be spent actually putting on the paint.

Load your roller with paint. You do not want it dripping off, but should have enough paint loaded into the roller that you do not have to stop and reload the roller before "tipping."

Apply the paint with your roller. You want to make sure to get good coverage. Do not roll out any more than three square feet of area. Be sure to paint in at least two directions; horizontally then vertically, or in opposing diagonals, to get complete coverage. Finish rolling paint onto the edge that your next pass will start on.e.g. an inch or so of overlap.

Now using your foam or bristle brush, lightly run the tip of the brush end over your paint. You should see a faint pattern of the bristles or foam as you are doing this. Drag the brush tip from top to bottom of the area or in a direction opposite of the directions used with the roller. The brush tip should be at about a 45 degree angle to the surface. Do not use a lot of pressure.This brush pattern will quickly disappear as the paint self-levels.

Be sure to start your next three square feet at the "wet edge" of the last three square feet. e.g. that one inch I mention above. Repeat the process of rolling in two (or more) directions and using a brush tip to smooth out the roller marks.

When you finish the entire area to be painted stop!!! You will be tempted to go back and "touch up" here and there. Don't do it. The paint will self-level. If you go back and try to touch up an area that has already started to dry it will leave marks that will not self-level.This is one of those times when you just have to trust the paint will do what it's supposed to.

Wait the recommended period of time stated on the label for the next coat. This may be up to twenty-four hours. It is often desirable to apply the next coat when the previous coat is slightly tacky, but follow the manufacturer's directions regardless.

You may as well clean your equipment and get it ready for the next job.

Though the video below recommends a particular brand of paint any of the paints mentioned above will work with this method. The video provides an excellent tutorial on the "brush and tip" method. You can even see the reflection of the painter on the boat hull after he uses the foam brush to "tip" the paint. Notice how quick and easy it is.

If you've applied your last coat of paint remove the masking tape now. Remove the tape carefully and slowly by pulling it forty-five to ninety degrees to the surface of your paint. Go slow and it will come off in one long strip. Take care not to let the loose end of the tape touch the surface. You can do this by balling up the removed tape in your hand as you pull it away with your other hand.

If you are concerned about ruining the paint job wait until it's dry, however the advantage to removing the tape now is that any areas that are heavily painted will be harder to remove the tape from once the paint is "set." Removing the tape while the paint is still a bit wet will allow the paint near the removed tape area to self-level.

Is the tape removed? Step away from the job and let it dry.

Note that the video recommends letting the paint sit for twenty minutes to allow air bubbles to work their way out of the paint. This is really not necessary if you use a straining cone. The video does not discuss using a roller so steps one and two are unnecessary with a roller. Step three should certainly be followed. Also note that this video covers an epoxy paint; a two parter.

It doesn't really matter though. The "Roll and tip" method will work with any of the many one or two-part polymer paints.

When using the roller be sure to get complete coverage by rolling in at least two directions; horizontally and vertically or in opposing diagonals. Do not paint any more then three square feet at a time. You will want to be able to "tip" the area before it starts to dry.

Since the "brushing reducer" covered in the video is expensive you can use denatured alcohol for the wipe down between coats. Better yet use a window/all purpose cleaner for grease and dirt followed by denatured alcohol for surface binding prep.

The glowing praise for the job at the end happens to be true. I've used both spray and "brush and tip" methods of painting. Only an expert can tell them apart.

Cleanup is pretty straightforward. This is the only time to use acetone if you use it it all. Thinner works well too. Denatured alcohol is not going to do the job.

Soak your brushes and roller in one of the solvents for about fifteen minutes. Then with gloved hands work the solvent through the bristles or nap of the roller. Set the brushes and roller aside, throw out the old solvent and start with fresh and do it again.

Finally rinse your tools in cold running water and use a dry rag or old towel to pat dry. Hang the roller and brush in an area with good airflow to allow air drying.

Foam brushes will melt with most solvents so just plan to throw these away.