Since I was a teenager, I've known about the Sail Training Ship Leeuwin, a replica three-masted barquentine built in Western Australia. In fact, I remember going to the grand unveiling with my father, and still have the T-shirt to celebrate the occasion.

But only now, some 15 years later and after a long time away from Perth, have I had the chance to sail on the beautiful Leeuwin. Most of the year, it journeys up and down the Western Australian coastline on longer voyages, mostly for teenagers to help build their confidence and skills, sometimes for disadvantaged or disabled sailors, and occasionally for paying adults on eco-cruises. Over the Christmas period, however, the Leeuwin is based at Fremantle again and locals and tourists are able to buy tickets for a morning, afternoon or twilight sail.

We picked the twilight sail to get better photography light and to avoid some of the heat of the day, and it was a fantastic experience. All strong men on board (and anyone else standing around looking idle) are recruited to help haul the sails high, to the tune of "2, 6, heave!". During the sail, we had the chance to tour down below and see where the sailors sleep, eat and relax. A volunteer crew, mostly teenagers, plus a permanent crew of captain and four or five others, oversaw the running of the ship.

What a fantastic experience: to feel the salt spray, to wobble down the decks and to be wind-swept across the Indian Ocean. I'm not sure whether I'd want to live on board for a week or more, but a few hours one late afternoon were certainly worth the trip. If you have a chance to sail on the Leeuwin, grab it, as they're few and far between, and they beat some modern motor boat any day.