We have mild winters in San Diego. Vegetables that back east would be started no earlier than March can be started in the fall and continued throughout the winter till March (and sometimes longer). Our fall and winter vegetables and herbs include : the cabbage family (broccoli, cabbage, brussell sprouts, cauliflower, kale, chinese cabbages), leafy greens (spinach, swiss chard, mustard greens, arugula), lettuces, root vegetables (carrots, radishes, turnips, potatoes, beets), peas, alliums (onions, shallots, chives, garlic, leeks), perennials (asparagus and artichokes), cilantro, dill, fennel, parsley, mints, cresses.

In preparing the soil, use plenty of compost to keep it loose. For the areas that are going to be used for leaf greens, and the cabbage family (except broccoli and cauliflower), and the herbs amend with extra nitrogen. The end product is the leaves, so there is no need to encourage flowering or fruit. Peas, bulb onions, garlic, broccoli, cauliflower and the root vegetables need a little more phosphorus and potassium. In feeding try not to exceed a percentage food over ten (ex. 10-10-10) as this can injure microorganisms, hurting the soil.

Winter vegetables can be started by seed and small transplants (the six packs sold at nurseries). Garlic, shallots, onion sets (tiny onions planted to grow larger) and potatoes are started by offsets or cut pieces. Radishes and other root vegetables sold in seed packets should be direct planted into the ground, they don't transplant well. When starting from seed, read the package thoroughly, particularly the seed depth. Some seeds need the suns light to sprout others are repeled by it. Water with a mist or light shower or the seed will wash away. Keep moist till they sprout or they will shrivel and die.

When planting transplants be careful not to damage the roots. Set them in wide and deep enough holes and firmly press soil around them. Water them gently, so that the stems don't break.

Keep an eye out for damage. Cutworms like to knaw on the stems and tip the plant over, killing it. They are hard to kill without chemicals so some gardeners take styrofoam coffee cups cut the bottom out and use it as a kind of a collar. It helps. Snails will simply eat the whole plant. They can be controlled by rolling up damp newspaper and leaving it for them to hunker down in the morning, then just toss it. There are some organic pesticides, check with a local nursery for info.

Loopers are laid by pretty little butterflies, usually on the cabbage family. However many mothes and butterflies used the winter crops for food. An occasional spray of Bt (a bacteria that attacks them and little else) is a good organic way to kill them. Aphids can bee destroyed by the occasional release of lady bugs. If that doesn't work oil sprays and insecticidal soaps can be applied.

The perennials, artichokes and asparagus, are starting to grow again after a brief hiatus. They will require very different care. Artichokes need very little after a kick start in the spring, a good all purpose fertilizer wil do the job. Asparagus on the other hand is a heavy feeder and will require regular feeding, again with an all purpose fertilizer.

Side dressings of amendments or compost keep the plants insulated and fed during the growing season. If extra food is required lower numbers and dry, granular feeds are good. Liquid plant food moves to quickly through the plants system and must be applied more often.

Harvest as needed. From late October to mid March, a consecutive crop can be planted at 2 - 3 week intervals