SAN FERNANDO(LA UNION)

The capital of La Union Province, San Fernando emanates great civic pride. Bear­ing slogans declaring love for the city, tricycles buzz through the streets uncannily color-coordinated with the pastel shades of the town plaza. The crowded streets and the air reek of pollution, yet peace can be found at the spectacular Ma-cho Temple. A stretch of beach between San Fernando and Bauang to the south attracts swarms of townies on weekends but won't impress those familiar with Visayan beaches. Rougher waters to the north, at San Juan beach, support loyal surfers between November and February.

TRANSPORTATION

Partas, on Quezon Ave. 100m north of P. Burgos St. intersection, runs buses to Baguio (2hr., sporadic daily departures 5am-8pm, with A/C ) and Manila (7-8hr., 6am-12:30am). Philippine Rabbit buses depart from the terminal off Quezon Ave. on the southernmost border of town for Vigan (2%hr., every hr. 7:30am-4pm) and Laoug (4'/2hr.). Minibuses, including Eso-Nice, depart from Gov. Luna St. to Baguio (2hr., every 15min. 5:30am-6pm). For Dagupan, catch minibuses departing from Rizal Ave. (2hr., every 5min. 4:30am-6pm). For Alaminos, change minibuses at Dagupan.

ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION

San Fernando is 270km north of Manila, bracketed between the beaches of Bauang (6km) to the south and San Juan (10km) to the north. The town is arranged lin­early, and the South China Sea makes north-south orientation easy. Quezon Ave. (which becomes National Highway) connects the beaches and the city's main road. Most accommodations lie north of the town plaza along Quezon Ave. The major streets running east-west include Gen. Luna St. (not to be confused with adjacent Gov. Luna St.), Rizal Ave., and P. Burgos St. The sights sit on polar ends of town, with the Ma-Cho Temple at the northern extreme, and other sights (Freedom Park, Fil-Chinese Pagoda and the Museo de La Union) to the south. Taking Rizal Ave. west away from the hill leads to the coast.

ACCOMMODATIONS AND FOOD

Hotel Mlkka is on Quezon Ave., next to the Partas bus terminal, 150m north of P. Burgos St. intersec­tion toward Ma-cho Temple. The staff are particu­larly knowledgeable and professional, and all rooms are fully equipped with phones, A/C, and cable TV.) Also on Quezon Ave., 100m south of the town plaza, Mandarin House Hotel is more bud­get-friendly. The Sea & Sky Hotel and Restau­rant , in Pagdaraoan, has affordable basement rooms that forego views of the South China Sea, as well as more expensive rooms with expansive vistas. All rooms include breakfast and have phones, A/C, and cable TV.

The lines are long, but the service is quick at the Danish Baker O, on Quezon Ave., past the plaza on the left. (Delicious tuna turnovers. Pandisuelo bread, a local favorite. Open daily 6am-8:30pm.) The well-run Las Villas , 2514 San Juan., 400m toward the sea from the National Highway (Quezon Ave.) in San Juan., provides fresh seafood that will melt in your mouth as you cool in the shade of the palms by the sea. The "Fisherman's Basket" feeds two. It's well worth the trek out of town. If you crave fried American pigeon, head to the Mandarin Restaurant. The res­taurant has options for the frugal as well as the indul­gent.

On the lush green hillside off Quezon Ave., 400m to the north of the town plaza, a joint group of Filipinos and Taiwanese fisherman built the Macho Temple in grati­tude for local hospitality. Ma-cho, the Taoist goddess of the sea, looks out upon the South China Sea from atop her hill; visitors can borrow her vista from the bal­cony, or step inside to ask her questions. A Chinese deity of the Sung dynasty, Ma­cho is known in the Philippines as the Virgin of Caysasay. On the second week of September, the original statue of the Virgin is brought to the temple from Taal for the Feast of Our Lady of Caysasay. (Open daily 6am-6pm.) Beautifully landscaped gardens featuring Japanese, Chinese, and "medicinal" flora await at La Union Botan­ical and Zoological Garden (6km outside of town). Visitors with allergies should avoid the "Fragrance Garden."

Like most of San Fernando's attractions, its preeminent disco is atop a hill. The High Altitude Disco, on Gapuz Zig-Zag Rd., features pop/dance on Friday nights. Cover includes one beer. (Open W-Sa 9pm-2am.) Gatherings, a videoke bar in Hotel Mikka, features drunken tourists singing 80s pop from 6pm to 2am daily.