How to Set Up a Leopard Gecko Enclosure
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Caring for Leopard Geckos
Leopard geckos are one of the most popular pet reptiles because they are relatively small and docile. Because of their size, they require small enclosures, but that doesn't mean that they can be neglected in terms of proper husbandry.
There are many different opinions about how a leopard gecko should be housed. Some are accurate, some semi- accurate, and some just plain wrong.
When I say wrong, I mean that in order to house a leopard gecko properly, there are just some things you can't do. Those things can shorten the lifespan of the leopard gecko and cause many health concerns while the gecko is in your care.
Below, I will give you the most accurate way to house your leopard gecko to ensure that he lives happy, healthy, and safely, in your care.
Do remember that leopard geckos can live for up to 20 years, and the most important key to that longevity is to have a properly set up enclosure, but there can always be unexpected occurrences that may cause a shorter lifespan. Just make sure that you do all that you can do to raise your leopard gecko to his longest year by provided a safe enclosure.
Enclosure Size
Because leopard geckos are relatively small reptiles, you can get away with a 10 gallon aquarium with a screen lid. A better option would be to purchase a 20 gallon long aquarium with a screen lid.
The reason I suggest a 20 gallon long versus the 10 gallon is because after you add the hides and bowls, there is very little room left for the leopard gecko to walk around, which can stress him out.
Too little walk around room can potentially stress out your leopard gecko, but too much extra room can, also, potentially stress out your gecko.
So, if you choose a larger sized enclosure, you'll want to add a few extra hides or decoration pieces, such as wood pieces, bridges, fake plants, etc.
Reptile Carpet
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Zoo Med Cage Carpet 10x20in for 10 Gallon Tank Assorted Colors
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Zoo Med Cage Carpet 12x24in for 15 to 20 Gallon Tank Assorted Colors
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Zoo Med Cage Carpet 12x30in for 29 Gallon Tank Assorted Colors
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Proper Substrate
Ok, this is usually the biggest mistake that people make when decorating their leopard gecko enclosures. Many people assume that because leopard geckos are dessert reptiles, they should be housed on sand. Well, I hate to break it to you, but not all the dessert is composed of loose sand; leopard geckos are naturally found in dessert's composed of compacted sand and rocks.
You can house older geckos on very fine play sand, but you want to stay away from housing baby and juvenile geckos on sand because they tend to be clumsy when catching their prey and tend to catch mouthfuls of sand that can compact in their digestive system. This is still common with older geckos, just not as common.
Calci-sand, or any calcium- based sand, is another common mistake. Many pet store employees recommend that you purchase the digestible sand. I mean, it even says on the bag that it's good for reptiles... Well, again, I hate to break it to you, but when calcium- based sands get wet, they tend to clump, so in a reptile's digestive system, it tends to do the same. Plus, because it is calcium based, reptiles tend to lick at it, so they ingest the sand, which really isn't the purpose by any means. Overall, you want to avoid all calcium- based sands as though it were the plague.
Wood shaving and bark chips can 1) raise humidity slightly and 2) give hiding cover for crickets, making it hard for the gecko to find his food.
In general, you want to avoid any and all loose substrates. These can include:
- Playsand (often marketed as vita-sand in pet stores, otherwise regular playsand in any form)
- Calcium- based sand
- Potting soil
- Silica sand
- Wood shavings (cedar and pine especially)
- Cat litter
- Bark chips
- Crushed corn cob
- Walnut shells
What you want to remember is that loose substrates can cause impaction, which can be fatal if you don't notice the signs early on.
Substrates that you want to use in you leopard gecko's enclosure, include:
- Paper towels
- Reptile carpet
- Indoor/outdoor carpet
- Slate tiles
- Rollout liner
Digital Thermometer
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Fluker's Digital Thermometer / Hygrometer
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DIGITAL THERMOMETER
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Under Tank Heater
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Zoo Med Repti Therm Under Tank Heater 4 x 5in for 5 Gallon Tank
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Zoo Med Small Repti-Therm UTH Under Tank Heater Small
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Zoo Med Repti Therm Under Tank Heater 8 x 12in for 30 to 40 Gallon Tank
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Proper Temperatures
Probably the most important aspect of a proper enclosure is to make sure that you have accurate temperatures within the enclosure.
Remember that leopard geckos need temperatures on the hot side of their enclosure around 88F to 90F during the day.
The best way to provide this temperature is to use an Under Tank Heater. UTH's are also great because leopard geckos are terrestrial and they absorb heat via their bellies. So by using an under tank heater, you leopard gecko will be able to get the best heat.
Use a digital thermometer with a probe to measure the temperatures in the tank. You can attach the meter on the outside of the tank and have the probe on the hot side of the tank on top of the substrate.
You do not want to use the stick- on thermometers of any size, shape, or brand because they do not read temperatures accurately by any means. When you use a stick- on thermometer, you are measuring the wall temperatures, anyway, which aren't the temperatures that are affecting your leopard gecko. Even if you place the thermometers on the surface of the tank, they are still not accurate.
The Zoo Med under tank heaters to the right are sized for 1 to 30 gallon enclosures, so make sure that you know which size equals to which enclosure:
Mini: 1-5 gallon
Small: 10-20 gallon
Medium 20-30 gallon
Lighting
Lighting is an optional feature for your leopard gecko's enclosure. Because they get their heat from the surface of the enclosure, the light really just raises the air temps a few degrees.
The one good reason to opt for a clamp light, is to create a day/night scenario. If you decide that you want to use a clamp light, you will want to the light and the under tank heater on the same side of the enclosure.
You do not need to use UV lighting. Leopard geckos are nocturnal, so they do not benefit from the UV rays.
How many hides?
This is probably the most simple aspect of a leopard gecko's enclosure. You want to have at least 3 hides in the cage- 2 dry hides and 1 humid hide.
You want to have 1 dry hide on the hot side of the enclosure, and 1 dry hide on the cool side of the enclosure. This allows your gecko to thermoregulate his body temperatures. If he gets too hot on the how side, he can seek refuge in his hide on the cool side, and vice versa.
Now, for the humid hide, you want to place it on the hot side of the enclosure. Humidity tends to be caused by moisture and heat. So, basically what you can do, is cut a hole in a Glad tupperware container.You can use peat moss, Bed-A-Beast, or vermiculite within the humid hide, or you can use paper towels or a small piece of a towel. If you use a loose substrate (moss, dirt, etc), you will probably want to cut the hole in the top of the container because the gecko may dig or kick out the bedding all over the tank. Otherwise, if you use paper towels or a piece of a towel, you can cut the hole on the side.
The humid hide aids in shedding, so when you gecko is going to shed, you'll want to make sure to mist the inside of the hide. You gecko will use the hide if he wants. Don't force him to use the humid hide. You don't need to mist the hide every day; usually your gecko will begin to dull a day or so before he turns the white-gray color.
Cage Placement
At this point, you should know:
- What size enclosure to use.
- Proper substrate.
- Proper heating and how to accurately read the temperatures.
- Lighting.
- How many, what kind, and where to put hides.
The only other thing I should mention is where you place the enclosure.
You want to make sure not to put your leopard gecko's enclosure in direct sunlight, which means that you shouldn't put the cage directly in front of a window. This can increase temperatures in warmer months and create a slight chill during cooler months.
In general, try to stick with placing the enclosure on interior walls, versus exterior ones.
Miscellaneous Notes & Suggestions
In regards to the:
Under Tank Heater:
- I find that not attaching it to the enclosure makes for easier cleaning. Because you do not have to worry about the UTH being attached to the enclosure, you do not have to worry about the cord getting wet.
- Make sure to prop the aquarium up on something, so that you give the UTH room to breathe. By blocking the heat from UTH underneath the cage, the heat can build up under the cage and cause stress cracks.
Decor:
- Make sure not to over decorate the enclosure. Remember too much can cause stress.
Calcium:
- Remember that you should add a small bowl of calcium in the enclosure, in addition to dusting feeder insects in calcium, because it allows the gecko to get the calcium that he needs at any time of the day.
- I like putting calcium bowls near the water bowl, but you can put it anywhere.
- Also, you may consider keeping the bottle cap to your milk or gatoraid because it's the perfect size to use as a calcium dish.
Setting up a leopard gecko enclosure
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Comments
I'd just like to mention that a larger space is fine, you don't have to use a small 10-20 gal tank. Its suitable, but with most animals, a larger enclosure is better. I have my 3 leos in a 38 squat, and they are very content with it. They do like to have some room to roam, and its good when they need to actually chase crickets, rather than waiting for them to wander in front of their faces. Also, some leos grow much larger than others, so they will need some extra space.
You must be an animal lover as over 90% of your writing is about animals
Danielle, you should not house more than 1 leopard gecko in the same enclosure. 10 gallon, as I mentioned is minimum. 20 gallon is preferred. You can go too big, sometimes the more space you have, stress can occur. 1 leopard gecko in a 20 gallon aquarium should not have any problems chasing crickets. The same goes for the giant and super giant leopard geckos. Becuase they tend to be around 11 inches long, give or take, they can live fine in a 20 gallon long. Also, remember that not all keepers use crickets but feed mealworms in a bowl, which would reduce any chasing.
fishskin, it's true, I love animals.
I know this is the same but I have a red rat snake and know that tank size is very important. This is where they are living so getting the right size and the right setting is extremely important. A change of scenary is nice to so they can get something different. As for placement I found that positioning the tank nearer a window makes the tank seem less gloomy (sometimes the lights just dont cut it) and allows to get a little more excitement. I think you have some great points but I am not sure about the under heating. Maybe I had a bad experience but I spent a lot of money on a heater (even though you can control the heat) I found it got way too hot on the area it is placed and my snake wouldnt go near it after it was on for a little. I am more partial to heat lamps for a duration. GREAT JOB! push that tank size I know the size tank I would want if I was in there.
You have peculier hobbies Witney; this article is quite detailed.
bspilner, the UTH is the best way to heat an enclosure for a terrestrial reptile, to include rat snakes. UTH's can be monitored with rheostats to dim the heat, but I find the thermostats work best. You can also purchase a smaller UTH to better suit the enclosure. Some brands are better than others. I've found the Zoo Med is the best UTH to purchase. I've used one other brand, but I forget the name, and was never satisfied with the heat output. The tank size is very important, but with most reptiles, if the tank is TOO large, it can stress them out.
You can't keep more than one male in a tank, they fight. You can't keep an agressive individual with a passive one, or a large female with a small female, for bullying reasons. You can house females together, or one male and a few females, as long as they are compatable individuals and have enough space that they can get away from eachother. I have one male and his two girls, with not terretory, bullying, or food hogging issues. No overbreeding, either, because the girls know how to say no, and the male doesn't push the issue. They haven't layed in a couple of months, but i have had two very successful clutches. Its better than introducing the male only for breeding, as no one feels their terretory is threatened by a stranger.
Danielle, it's true that you can house multiple geckos together, but it's not recommended.You are correct in no males or different sized females. And, you shouldn't house a male with any females unless for temporary purposes for breeding, but in general, it's not recommended to house multiple geckos together for long periods of time. I introduce males to ovulating females for one week before removing them into their own tub. I have had over 2 years worth of successful clutches this way.
By housing your male with your 2 femailes, you should have no problems with them laying fertile clutches regularly. I'd say there could possibly something else wrong as to why you've only had 2 successful clutches.
Very true. So I guess it really depends on the brand....I guess I should not associate a high price tag with quality. I guess my next question would if my snake is eight years old, over 3 feet long, what would you say it the right tank size. They get pretty small once you start to add some scenery? Thanks for the tips on the ZOO MED I will start surfin for one.
Typically, the minimum enclosure for a colubrid is 20 gallon long, but I find that can be a little cramps once you do add a sufficient sized water bowl and one hide. The 29 gallons are virtually the same surface area but taller. I'd go with a 40 gallon breeder. They're about 3 feet long, 18" wide, and 13" tall. That should give you sufficient room for a large water bowl, a hide and any decor. I personally, stick with simplistic enclosures, like the one seen above, but when you begin to add decor, you start taking up the surface area, so a larger enclosure is usually necessary. All depending on how much you add. The Zoo Med UTH's are sized per enclosure sizes 10-20, 20-30, etc. Sometimes, you can afford to get one sized smaller UTH to fit a larger enclosure to get the right temps; a lot depends on the temps in your house. My house tends to get pretty cold, so I am save with the 10-20 for and tank within that range, but if you like your house warmer, then a 1-5 may suffice for a 10 gallon tank. You can always exchange what doesn't work for your for another size. I'd give it a day to adjust, measuring the temps with a digital thermometer, and then decide what you want to do.
This is a great hub - I'll admit that I've never owned a reptile, but since you are obviously an expert, I thought I would check this out. I had no idea that leopard geckos live for 20 years! That is a serious commitment for people thinking of purchasing one for a pet. Whitney, great job! If you are going to have a pet, think about it and do it right!
Thanks Steph! Yes, their average lifespan ranges from 15 to 20 years, but of course that doesn't mean all leopard geckos live that long. I will say that proper husbandry is a great way to ensure longevity, but not always the means to an end. There are, or course, other factors that come into play.
Just thought I'd throw in, the only reason I've had just 2 clutches was because i was getting the water/vermiculite mix wrong in my incubator. After I fixed it, the next two clutches hatched.
Ah... So it's not the geckos. That makes sense. But, it's still not recommended to house multiple geckos like that, and you still have to watch out for too big of an enclosure.
So I just got a under tank heater and have been reading about them. I have not installed it yet, but have heard a couple different things about them. One thing is that they sometimes get too hot and you have to be careful that it does not burn your gecko. Any tips?! I was thinking maybe leaving it on during the day and then off during night or vice versa. I also have a lamp ontop my tank that I keep on during the day. I do not want to cause any overheating as well.
There shouldn't be a reason why you can't leave it on 24/7 your gecko needs this to digest his food properly. You can purchase a digital thermomter with a probe (which you need with or w/out the UTH), as this is the best way to monitor your temperatures on the surface of the tank, which is where the gecko gets his heat. If you purchased an appropriotely sized UTH, then you shouldn't have any problems, but if the digital thermometer reads that the temps are higher than 90F, then you can either add more paper towels to that side of the tank, raise the tank higher above the UTH, and/or lower the wattage of the lamp.
The lamp isn't going to doe anything beneficial for the gecko, as it raises air temps and not surface temps that the gecko needs. The UTH with or without the lamp is best. I don't use lamps in my tank; the only reason for one is to stimulate a day/night scenario.
I've never had problesm with zoo med UTH that are approrpriately sized for hte tank. Also, by not attaching the UTH to the actual tank, it makes cleaning easier and it leassens the heat as it's not directly on the glass. Just make sure to leave breathing room between the bottom of the tank and the surface that it's sitting on. The UTH can build up heat under the tank and cause stress cracks.
My room is roughly an 8' cube so is hardly massive, does that mean it's not wise to be playing my bass guitar in the day time (or at all) if he's nocturnal, or gets stressed by the sound?
The loud noise may affect him and stress him out but honestly, I'm not 100%. I would just keep an eye out on whether the gecko is eating and make sure that it's not lossing weight.
i have two leopard gecks I bought one on june 18th the other three or four days later different pet stores one of the geckos appears to be getting large looking healthy the other is still the same size when I purchased it and is missing his tail he was shedding for the first time next day or two tail was gone what do you think is going on. they are in the same cage together and I feed them crickets every day and have heat pad, light, cover, and termometer and everything what is going on and what to do to get him back on track
I would separate the two geckos; you don't know what parasite one could have had to introduce to the other.. I'm not sure what the problem is as you just told me the specs of the cage and when you purchased the geckos.
Thank you so much for the info
i was just wondering if u have too use light and heating.i have a friend who has an 11 year old leopard gecko and it has no light and no heat what so ever. will that eventually hurt it or is it perfectly okay?
You do not need a light but it is vital to have the under tank heater. without he heat the gecko can have major problems.
Thanks that is really good information. But my friend just got her 11 year old gecko from a friend.without heat or light it wont kill it will it? should i inform her it is vital to have light and maybe heat if possible? and could you maybe tell me how many watts a light bulb needs for a baby gecko leopard? i am thinking about getting one at Petco. And one more thing, could you give me a couple of tips?
Thanks a LOT!
It is vital for heat. I'm surprised that the gecko lived that long; it will be much healthier with heat. Rmemeber they are desert reptiles and need heat (just no sand). The watt will depend on the siaze of the enclosure and the UTH. You should have her purchase a digital thermometer with a probe so that you can measure the temps accurately. If you want to skimp on money, don't be skimpy when it comes to essentials.
hey whitney, i just got a leopard gecko and he is so sweet. I need to know what they would eat as a baby. I have been feading him the can-o-worms you would buy at petco, but i am afraid he cant swallow them he has never even tried to eat one.
You may want to try REAL crickets or worms. Most geckos don't like the can rickets and can worms. Make sure that they are sized appropriate. More than likely it's not that he can't swallow, it's that he doesn't know what it is bc it doesn't move.
thanks, but i have another problem. He wont drink anything
Is he not drinking or are you just not seeing him drink? They are nocturnal which means that they typically drink and roam at night.
actually whitney he has not drank a thing nothing has been licked out of his bowl since i got him PLEASE HELP IM WORRIED ABOUT HIM.
Have you sat in front of his cage 24/7 since you've got him? How can you 100% determine that he has not drank unless you have sat in front of the enclosure the entire time since you brought him home?
How long have you had the gecko? How old is it? Where did you get it? What are the temps? Can't help with your assumption that he hasn't drank alone.
ok whitney, he could possibly have drank but i am not very shure if he can even get up to his water bowl.
p.s. He is not much bigger than a hatchling only about 1 1/2. and about how tall does a babies water bowl need to be?
It sounds like you've got a hatchling. Sad, it should never have been sold that young or that small. I use 2.5" porcelain bowls with mine- hatchlings and adults. They're at least a half an inch probably 3/4" tall.
i know what you mean whitney, he is soooo tiny and i got him at petco for $17.oo.
I was thinking about getting one at another pet store called middle earth. Great name for a pet store huh. But actually it is not a very good pet store, they have dogs for sale and hardly TAKE CARE OFF THEM sell them for $300 while they are sick. so i definetly did not get a leopard gecko there. Can u give me some tips on having a baby leopard gecko, PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!! IT WILL MAKE ME SO SAD IF SOMETHING HAPPENS TO HIM
The care is going to be the same for a baby as an adult. Just make sure to have a digital thermometer with a probe to accurately measure the temps. Use an under tank heater. No sand or loose particle substrate. And you should be fine as long as the gecko is healthy, which is iffy with any pet store. I actually don't recommend buying anything smaller than 5-6 inches at a pet store ever. At at length you know whether it is healthy or not becuase of the tail, alertness, etc. Typically babies are really iffy, especially bc most pet stores house them on sand substrate, which is terrible.
thanks whitney and i am using paper towls i would never use sand.I never got a heat pad because i could never find any I have a heat lamp and it is always on 80 degrees. i dont have a digital thermomiter but mine works very well, is that ok?
p.s. is there anything else right now i could probobly use around the house to feed him instead of crickets? i have no store baught crickets right now but i still have those nasty dead mealworms he wont eat. And just to let you know i do have leopard gecko calcium but no leopard gecko vitamins.
Nope. Not enough 80F is no where near enough heat. You want the surface of the enclosure to be 90F. The heat lamps typically only heat the air, and that does nothing for your gecko. You need the under tank heater. And you need the digital thermometer to best measure the temps. The stick on thermometers only measure the wall temps, and aren't accurate even you put them on the ground.
And no to the second question. You need crickets or mealworms. Leopard geckos are insectivores so there's nothing around the house that will work other than insects, and not those from outside that wonder in ;-)
thanks but i really dont have the money for a heating pad and i dont know when i will even have the money. is there anything else i could possibly use. All i have for heat at this time is a 75 watt heat lamp there is really not anything i can think of around the house to use.
Well an under tank heater is the only proper method to heat the enclosure. Without it you will not be providing optimum temps or habitat. 75 watts is more than likely not heating the cage enough at all, but you will only know if you have the digital thermometer with the probe. But, not theres really nothing else that you can use to heat the cage besides the under tank heater, and measure the temps with the digital thermometer with a probe to make sure that it's accurate.
umm ya whitney can leopard geckos grow fast beccause after about 48 hours my leopard gecko is about 2 1/2. IS THAT POSSIBLE OR DO I HAVE A DIFFERENT LEOPARD GECKO , I CAN TELL YOU NOW I WAS PRETTY SURPRISED
Impossible. You must have measured wrong the first time.
ya possibly but i had another question. i think i may be able to get the undertank heater but while i was looking i realized that they have different temperatures what temperature do i need. i did see a pretty cheap one and it could go to 10 degrees farenhiet. is that a good temperature for my leopard gecko?
reptile under tank heaters don't have different temperatures, but different sizes. 10F is below freezing, so no that's not going to help your gecko one bit. It'll actually freeze him. You want a real reptile under tank heater, preferably the zoo med brand, as the others just plain suck. I've tried them all, and have only had good success with the zoo med ones. They last years before they need to be replaced. Please don't forget the digital thermometer with the prone. Human heating pads are not safe for your reptile, if that's what you're looking at.
hey whitney is a leopard gecko not going to eat anything thats dead?
not necessarily, but more than likely no.
k because this might be a good tip. i tied a dead mealworm from the can o worms to a piece of string. i wigled it around a bit and CHOMP! there he goes he wriped that meal worm off and chomped it down. That was the first time he ate since i got him.
p.s. i got him on friday so he did not go that long without eating, at least 24 hours
Friday until today has been 4 days, not 24 hours. Also, that's not really a trick. You can also use tweezers or your fingers. It's a common practice. But still remember that the can or dead worms are no where near as nutritious and healthy as live.
Also, have you figured out your heating situation? What are your temperatures? And how are you heating the enclosure?
im still using the heat lamp and he really seems good with it. I have been told all they need is a heatlamp because it will give them the rays they need
p.s. I have a fake plant and no mater where i put it in the cage he goes and lays in the shade of the leaves
Nope. Leopard geckos are nocturnal, which means they don't need the heat lamp. They actually don't need any light source whatsoever. The light is only good to create a day/night scenario, which is not really necessary. Now, are you using a heat lamp or a regular lamp? The heat lamps actually put off some heat, whereas the regular lamps do nothing except heat the air. You really need the under tank heating pad if you're using the regular zoo med clamp light. Now, if you're using a uv light, you don't need that either. That's the only type of "rays" that I can think that you're talking about. Remember that they are nocturnal and do not need the uv lighting, only diurnal reptiles need the uv light.
Leopard geckos don't get any "rays" from regular lighting or even heat lamps. They need the heat, not necessarily the light.
As for the plant. Stop moving it around. You want to make sure that you have 3 hides, one on the hot side, there the lamp AND/OR the under tank heater should be, one on the cool side, and a humid hide on the warm side or in-between. This should be ample place to hide.
You can't possibly know if he's good or not without being able to measure the temps properly. It really sounds like you're gipping your gecko of a healthy and proper tank enclosure without 100% knowing what the temps are and without the UTH. He may SEEM fine, but SEEM is the key word that you used. You don't KNOW if he's fine.
This is sort of the reason why you should have the enclosure set up before you get the gecko. This allows time for you to get proper funds to purchase all the necessary equipment before hand.
ok, i am using a heat lamp right now and as soon as possible i am getting a heat pad. but i had another question , do you think he should have a heat lamp and a heat pad or would that give off to much heat?
p.s. you dont have to keep downing me every time you think he needs more of this or less of that
I'm not downing you. I'm just stating a fact that everyone should know and understand, as to the importance of having everything before you get the pet. It makes the transition so much easier on the animal.
You will only know if the temps are too much or not enough if you use a digital thermometer with a probe. Do you have a link to the heat lamp that you're using? Not all heat lamps marketed as such truly are that. I would up the wattage until you have the under tank heater, unless you know that the 75 watts are getting the enclosure floor to 90F.
i am getting a leopard gecko in a couple months. i am sing carpet and some rock hides i got from a pet store. is there anything else i need. (besides food dish, water dish, and calcium dish. By the way it is a 20 gallon tank.
the word sing is supposed to be using. Sorry!
Under tank heater is a MUST, digital thermometer with a probe (like the ones feature on this page- the $5 one works great and you'll know your temps are accurate), humid hide, and that should be about it.
Thanks and actually i am getting the supplies tonight and the gecko tomarrow!! i am so exited! Thanks a lot!!
hey whitney its been awhile i just wanted you to know i got an under tank heater and all the things you said he would need so thanks for all the help hopefully now he can be very happy and healthy.
Jonah good luck
bob hopefully the gecko will be good to go. if you ahve any questions or concerns, just ask.
I am going to a retile expo on November 1st. i might get a Mack Snow leopard gecko. I havent the one i said i was going to yet but i do have the supllies. Thanks!!
Hey 1 question i have went to a pet store and they said that a leopard gecko eats 6 crickets a day is that true or do they eat less. When can they start eating mealworms?
That's great. Good luck finding a mack. If all else fails, I have a nice juvie available.
I wouldn't stick with 6 crickets a day. I have geckos that eat more and some that eat less. Plus, after they reach a certain age, they typically just start eating every other day, some even every few days. It will all depend on the gecko, so you'll just have to figure that out when you get the gecko. Start daily, and when you notice that the gecko isn't eating, try every other day. Just make sure to remove what's uneaten because crickets can munch on the gecko, while sleeping. You can actually start babies on mealworms. Just small mealworms. They don't have to eat crickets. Many people don't feed there's crickets just because they don't like crickets and caring for them. I personally think crickets cut down my feeding times, but I do make sure to provide mealworms or superworms for adults every now and then to add variety.
whitney do ya know how i said i got the heat pad, well i was wondering should i keep his heat lamp on while the heat pad is also on? and should i go ahead and buy a night light heatbulb for night time?
p.s. do you usually have any stuff in your tank that he doesnt need but he likes to have?
That will depend on what your temps are in the enclosure. If the temps are higher than 90F with the heating pad and the light, then either use a lower watt bulb or turn it off. If the temps are right around 90F, then leave it be. Using the digital thermometer with the probe, you'll be able to read the temps on the surface of the tank, which is what your gecko is feeling.
I don't use night lights, just because there's no need for it.
They don't necessarily like anything. They're not like dogs and cats who don't need balls and toys but like them. As long as the gecko has a hide on the hot and cool side, a humide hide, water bowl, and calcium dish, the gecko should be fine.
i got my leopard gecko a log to climb and he is sleeping under the base of it. it looks like he is stuck. should i get him out?
I'd leave him be. He's more than likely not stuck, but you can move the log and let him move around and put the log back.
What kind of juvie do u have
Some great help on here, nice to see :)
I will be getting a leo myself soon and am currently sorting everything out u have mentioned above, but 1 thing i have questioned is that before feeding crickets u must gut load them 24hours in advance to the feed.
What would u say is the best way to do this? I have read many other pieces of info online but they seem to vary.
Thanks in advance :D
Jonah, I have tremper albino, bell albino, super snow, macks, super hypo tangerine carrot tail baldies, normals, and various other juvies that I have hatched this year. As for personal breeder juvies, I've got SHTCTBs, enigmas, macks, etc.
Villetty, when gutloading crickets you just have to make sure that they've been eating a high quality grain and gutload mix. typically put them in a ventillated container with a grain and either commercial cubes or carrots. I buy fluker's cricket grain.
How much aew they?
the price varies from $15 and up.
Hey just got my gecko today he is a bell albino. He is not eating is that normal for the first day?
It's normal. Don't mess with the gecko for a few days and let it adjust to its new surroundings.
hey how many crickets should i feed my baby leopard gecko?
As many as it will eat in 10-15 minutes. Remove anything uneaten.
Great Hub Whitney! I've got 2 fish tanks and a baby snapping turtle tank. Now it is time for the Leopard Gecko tank! Thanks for the great resource!
I was wondering if you hvae a website or if you have any leopard geckos for sale?
Cicely, you can check out goreptiles.com that is my website, and I do have several geckos available.
I was wondering what do the temps. for the enclosure have to be at the cool end of the tank? Also i need to to know how often to feed a roughly 3mnth old leo with crickets and how many should i feed it?
Thanx.
You really jsut want to worry about the hot side of the tank. Make sure that it is 90F. You need to feed daily, until the gecko stops eating daily, and then start feeding every other day. Feed as many crickets as it will it in 15 minutes, and remove anything uneaten.
Hey whitney i have had my bell albino leopard gecko for about a month now. thanks for all the stuff u provided me!! You were a real help.
Hey, I have been doing a lot of reading about buying a leopard gecko and would like to purchase one real soon. I love all animals and hope to become a zoologist some day. I read that under the tank heaters(uth) are not the best, because they do not warm the air and the can burn the animals feet, what are you thoughts about that? And I purchased the calcium substrate sand, should I be worried about my leopard gecko eating it?
The air temperatures are not really a concern with leopard geckos. You want the surface of the enclosure to be heated, which cannot be done with a light. You want to use an under tank heater to heat the surface of the enclosure so that the gecko can get belly heat to digest its food. It can burn the feet and bellies, but only if the gecko is sitting on it and doesn't have anything to buffer the heat. IE if you use reptile carpet, you should be fine.
Calcium based sand, is the worst possible substrate that you can use for a leopard gecko. It will entice the gecko to lick and eat it, and in the body it will essentially sit. Calcium based substrates clump when wet, not dissolve, and that's what it will do within the body. You should consider changing to a solid substrate, such as reptile carpet, paper towels, tiles, etc.
Good luck becoming a zoologist. I considered it myself, but I particularly do not want to go through that much schooling. I would rather my reptiles be a hobby not a profession. I commend those who can do it.
Hey, thank you so much for the great advice. I am going to switch to reptile carpet so i can purchase a under the tank heater. I just want what is best for my soon to be gecko. But i also read that geckos can snag a toe or claw on reptile carpet causing pain and injury to the animal, any advice on that? And will does the gecko just eat the calcium next to the water dish? Or do you have to dust it on the worms you feed it? I guess I am a little confused about the whole calcium dish issue.
It's true that they can snag their toes on the reptile carpet. I don't really have any thoughts about it, as I've never had it happen. You can use the reptile carpet to create a heat buffer and put paper towels on top of that to prevent the gecko from snagging his toes.
You need to dust the mealworms, crickets, etc with calcium/vitamins, but you also need to have a dish of pure calcium in the cage.
If i purchase an under the tank heater do i leave it on all he time? and can i use just one thermometer to measure the heat? do i need to measure the humidity? how do i pick a good leopard gecko at a pet shop?
Yes, you'll need to leave it on at all times. You'll need a digital thermometer with a probe to measure the temps on the surface of the tank. This should be the only thermometer that you have.
Here's an article that I have about choosing a leopard gecko. Just remember that many pet store reptiles are sick and have parasites.
ok thanks. i also have a fluorescent light bulb above the tank, would that harm or injure my gecko, and would that be good enough to provide a night and day setting?
You don't need the flourescent lighting. It's not going to hurt or help the gecko, and it's a waste of energy.
If you're wanting to create a day/night scenario, then just use a regular clamp light.
alright, thanks a lot for the great advice. i really appreciate it.
If you have any other questions, just ask.
so i got my gecko yesterday, and all it has been doing is sleeping. i know they are nocturnal but should i be worried. and he hasn't eaten...i might just be over reacting, but i don't know what else i can do. i havent handled him yet because i read that you were suppose to wait a week till you do. is there anything else i can do for him?
They are nocturnal, so it's roaming while you're sleeping. It can sometimes take a gecko several days to get adjusted before it starts eating. Just make sure that the temperature is accurate, measuring with a digital thermometer with a probe, and you should be fine. Keep offering the crickets, mealworms, etc. but just remove what's not eaten after about 15 -20 minutes. You can probably find a bowl that will hold the mealworms from escaping, and you can leave those in there. It's just a matter of finding a bowl that will hold them in without being too tall for the gecko to see them. If you have an older gecko, that's not really a problem. If you're feeding mealworms, look for a ceramic bowl; kritterz makes a great one that I use.
i am using mealworms that are a small size so that he can eat them. they are in a ceramic bowl so they dont escape. but how do i know if he knows they are there?
He'll find them while he's roaming around at night. Also consider crickets as a good staple diet. Depending on how big the gecko it, you may want to even start it off on small crickets and wean him to mealworms, if that's what you want to feed as a staple. How tall is the bowl? The ones I use are about 3/4" tall or so. I started some hatchlings on mealworms, but they never used the bowl. I had to let them free crawl in the tank, and slowly had to adjust them to the bowl with a few crawling the tank and a few in the bowl, and then none crawling and all in the bowl. But I'm not sure how well this would do for a regular tank; I use a rack system with sterlite tubs. Also, this is not a good idea if you are using a sand substrate.
i use a one inch bowl. i guess i could try and let them worms crawl free because i am using reptile carpet for my substrate. my gecko is about 3 and a half inches. he looks healthy(his eyes are alret, no scratches, etc.). when i bought him the pet store clerk suggested small worms because i dont think she had any small enough crickets. she kept them in a fridge and thats what she told me to do. do you think i could stick to feeding him worms for his entire life?
You can feed worms throughout a geckos life, but it is always good to mix it up. I try to give my hatchlings, juvies, and adults, a mix of crickets and worms (I prefer superworms for ths older juvies and adults though). Mealworms are to be kept in the fridge for a longer shelf life, a this slows they're growth.
The reptile carpet could pose a problem letting them crawl around, as the worms can go under the carpet, where your gecko probably won't find them. I would stick with the bowl for now, and just keep an eye out. Definitely, don't let it wait too late, as a gecko that small really shouldn't have been sold, much less at a pet store. Geckos should not be offered for sale until at least 10-15 grams. At 3 inches, it sounds like you have a near hatchling, which isn't common for pet stores to sell. It's just unhealthy and not right on the breeder or wholesaler's part (whoever sold the geckos to the pet store). But anyway, at that age and size, you don't want the gecko to go without food for too long, but it's natural for it not to eat for a few days after a big change, especially at that young of an age.
Since it is such a small gecko, you should really wait longer than a week to try to hold it.
As for the food, just leave it as is in the bowl for now. If it a few days, and if you notice the gecko roaming towards evening time, you may want to drop a mealworm in front of it, but not too close that would scare it.
alright thanks so much. thats a BIG help.
If you have any other questions, just ask.
My under the tank heater doesnt seem to be giving off enough heat for my leopard gecko, which might explain why he sleeps all the time. I have tried 4 different themoters and the all read around 75 degrees. Would an incodenest lightbulb(regular lightbulb) provide more heat? And if I end up using one, should I still use my under the tank heater?
Have you tried using a digital thermometer with a probe, measuring the surface temps? Have you tried an infrared temp gun? What brand under tank heater are you using? The zoo med ones featured above should have no problems heating the tank properly. There are others though, that just plain suck. A regular light would more or less heat the air, not necessarily the surface of the tank. It wouldn't hurt to add the light if you have tried both the infrared temp gun and the digital thermometer with a probe. You will STILL need to use the undertank heater, as the light alone will never provide the proper temperatures.
No, I have not tried a digital thermometer with a probe, because I live in a small town and can't seem to find one anywhere. I am going to look again though. If nothing else I plan to order one of the Internet. The under tank heater brand I am using in Four Paws Nature's Heat. I can feel it working under the tank I just don't know if there is enough heat coming through my reptile carpet. I am going to try the light, and see if it helps.
You may want to purchase one online, otherwise check the fish section of the pet store, sometimes you can find the cheaper digital thermometers there.
I'm not sure if I've heard the brand, but I want to say that I have. It's not a brand that I've tried, though. The zoo med brand is going to be better. But, since you haven't been able to measure the temps with a digital thermometer, you don't really know if it's truly 75F or not. Definitely try to get one, so that you can make sure that the temps are accurate, as the stick on thermometers and whatnot aren't accurate at all.
Hi, I just got my leopard gecko, but I am not sure about how many small worms to feed it. I got him a couple days ago, and today I placed a worm right in front of him and he ate it. I fed him 9 small worms, should I give him more?
He is about 3 and a half inches.
At 3 and a half inches, I wouldn't feed anymore. You want to be careful as the gecko is near a hatchling, and should not have every been sold. They should not be available for sale until at least 15 grams. Also, be careful of overfeeding, as geckos who haven't eaten in a while, will overfeed and throw it all back up. Leave the gecko alone for now, and try feeding it again tomorrow.
my leopard gecko made a hissing noise and bit me when i help my hand for him to crawl on to! but i held him fine yesterday what did i do?
Just means that you need to work on taming it. Start slow.
i have kept my leos together since i bought them there have never ben any problems. and the 2 i got a few minths back had never been kept together i put them in the same tank and they was fine. they seem to like the company rather than being alone
They do better alone and solitary. In the wild they lived individually, bred, and continued to live individually. It is not a good idea to house so many in one tank, especially if they are not the same age and size. If you've only had them kept together, how do you know if they do better solitary or grouped?
Ello, wld just like to say its great info your giving out, its good to see that somone is actully giving facts that are true and right! i used to own a leopard gecko about 5 years back, it was 17 years old and was very tame and loved much, the only statement i wld say is a bit of target is sizes of the enclosure, i always had a 3ft by 1ft and i kno of people with even bigger! i look at it as, in the wild they have as much room as they want, they could walk a mile if they wanted to, not they they would to be honest but the room is always there, i havent in my years of knowing and owning leopard gecko's herd of stress cose of size aslong as they can get to the hot and cooler side they tend to have no problems, plus mine always loved to explore its great stimulastion and great exersize for them, with decor in there to it gives them great fun, going up and over objects, and then having gd ground space.
Stress on having too much space is more common on younger geckos than adults. In some cases, bigger is better but there is always a limit. It sounds like you had a 40 gallon breeder, which isn't that big in comparison of many tanks available. You are also correct that in the wild, they had much more room, but captive care is much different than wild care.
Hi, my leopard gecko is about 6 weeks old. I noticed he was molting this morning so I left him alone. I am currently feeding him small meal worms until he is big enough to eat crickets. When I fed him tonight he didn't snatch up his meal worms like he usually does. Could he just be tired from molting? And I can still see some of his un-shed skin on his toes, what should I do about that?
Sometimes after shedding, they will not eat, especially younger geckos. Because they eat their skin, it is possible that the juvenile is full, so to speak.
As for the un-shed skin on the toes, you want to remove it carefully. Soak the baby in lukewarm water and gently try to remove the skin.
Alright thanks, that helps a lot.
Today I found him in his water dish. That is the first time I saw him actually in his dish. Is that uncommon? He was just standing in it.
It's not uncommon. Could be trying to hydrate his feet. Do you have a humid hide? If not, you should consider adding one to aid in shedding.
Yes i do have one. It is just a tupperware container filled with sphagnum moss.
Hm... Just make sure htat it is moist when the gecko is going into shed. Also make sure that the gecko gets proper calcium and vitamin supplements, as sometimes that can cause problems with shedding, but since it's just a few of the toe tips I wouldn't worry too much.
Ok I have done lots of reading about the Leopard Geckos and always seem to come back to your page for more useful information. I've read the ENTIRE page and the only question I have is - I'd like to use a light for my Gecko, I am however confused to how many or which ones I should buy. If I gathered correctly, they don't "need" light - only heat, and they don't need the UVA/UVB rays from the expensive light bulbs. So can I simply use one "spot" light with a clamp lamp ??if I choose. Oh and I guess I have one more question, are the Leopard Geckos tummies too sensitive for heat rocks/basking stumps?? I've already purchased a UTH however not the recomended brand so I may return it. THANKS
You can purchase a regular reptile clamp light, but you don't have to purchase the "reptile bulbs." You can use a regular light bulb in the reptile clamp light. I wouldn't use a spotlight, though.
Heat rocks can burn a reptiles stomach, You don't want to use one in a leopard gecko enclosure. An under tank heater is fine though, as it is under the tank.
i want to breed lepored gegoes but bi dont no how to set up my tank and shoule i put a waterfall in there
Check out this article that I have about breeding leopard geckos.
Hello, couple things
1 - Are the little 3in baby geckos bitey and do they need to be handled WAY less?? If so when is a good time to start handling them more? The reptile shop only has the little guys availible though I know you said she should not be selling them at all. I don't want the fully grown ones and I refuse to go to the chain stores due to my own personal experiences. So I am stuck with the little ones (though they should be a little bigger by now).
2 - Also I bought the thermometer that you recommended with the probe. It was actually much cheaper than the one I took back to the store. I know what temps to follow and where to measure at, however, I do not know where to place the Hygrometer nor what to look for. I do believe I read no more that 40-45.
Just want to make sure everything it set up correctly before I purchase my first reptile.
Thanks for all the helpful, factual, information. Some of this stuff just isn't in the books.
Are you talking about 3-inch, young leopard geckos? If so they are nippy because they are so small and we are all so big in comparison. I would stick with leaving a gecko that small alone until it's a little bigger. May I ask what is wrong with an older gecko? They live up to 15 years on average, so a year old gecko isn't sacrificing that much time. Please remember that even small mom-and-pop pet stores can have stick geckos, hence them selling them so young.
If you're talking about the hygrometer probe, I would stick it around the middle of the tank. Even the stick ons should be around the middle, I'd say. I've never really spent too much time doting on the hygrometer though. To me the temperature is the most important, and as long as there isn't a huge water bowl and the tank isn't misted, the humidity is typically evened
ive read a lot of articles but this is the best. The only thing is in the other articles they all said you can house more than one in a big tank-10 gallons per gecko.
You can sometimes house multiple females in an enclosure, but even still you risk bullying and stress. Never house multiple males in an enclosure, and never house a male with multiple females unless the intent is to breed, and even still the male should not be in the enclosure year round.
Thanks. I actually prefer the bigger ones as they look more durable to me and there tails are a lot fatter however the two she had was not enough of a selection for me simply for aesthetics plus, she had over a dozen younger ones of all sorts and colors.
So I shouldn't have said I won't buy the adult ones just not either of the two she has.
I've shopped around and found no other place like hers so I may just have to wait it out for the little ones to get bigger. How big do you suggest or how many months is good for handling??
Over time you realize the younger ones will grow up to have fatter tails and will be bigger... Either way they should not be sold until at least 10-15 grams. Handling will vary per gecko.
Yes I know they grow up that way. lol.
Thank You for your help.
Are leopard gecko's easy to handle when they are about 3months old
Not typically. They need to be worked with slowly to get them to be handlable
Great info! I do have a question though... I just got a leopard gecko about a week ago, but he wont eat. I have read that they tend to take a bit to get adjusted to their new environment, but isn't a week a little long?
It can take anywhere from a few days to a week. Try feeding something different; if you're using crickets, try mealworms. Sometimes it will take juvenile and older geckos a little longer to adjust, but in other situations it will take babies longer to adjust. It really all depends on the gecko. Just try to leave it alone while it's adjusting and offer food daily, removing uneaten crickets.
Hey Whitney, I just got my leopard gecko yesterday and I have only one hide out, but he seems to like it and is always in it. I also have two lamps. One is a heat lamp and the other is a day light lamp. Do I need both? And what about a hygrometer to measure the humidity, do I need one?
You should not use multiple lamps as that is a fire hazard. Purchase an under tank heater to get optimal temperatures and heat for digestion. Also purchase a digital thermometer with a probe. I have never really worried about the humidity. If you can get the temperature at and around 90F, the humidity should be fine as long as you're nto spraying the cage, using a large water bowl, or using mulch or another loose substrate.
You should add 2 more hides, so that you have one dry hide on both the hot and cold sides of the tank, and one humid hide that you'll mist when the gecko is going into shed.
And, yes they like the hides because leopard geckos are nocturnal, and the hides provide security during the day.
Thanks for helping me out Whitney! Ill purchase an under tank heat lamp and digital thermometer as soon as possible. I had one more question though. My gecko is about two to three months old and his water bowl never seems to be empty. I heard that you can purchase an artifical plant and spray water on it and they lick the water off of that when there babies. Would they by any chance lick it off of moss?
There's no need for that. Leopard geckos are desert animals, and the misting sprays are more for jungle. Depending on the size of the bowl, the gecko may be drinking and there may be too much water to notice a difference.
There shouldn't be any moss in the enclosure for hte gecko to lick off, especially at 2-3 months old.
Ok. But should there be moss in there at all? I put it under his log snd he sleeps on it.
I wouldn't recommend it, especially at that age. You risk impaction if the gecko injest it. For the humid hide, it's recommended to use paper towels and mist it when the gecko is going in shed.
Ok thanks. At what age should I let him use the moss?
Generally, you shouldn't use moss. Loose substrate is potentially problematic at all ages. But if you think that it's a must, you should wait until at least 9+ months.
can you give a leopaed gecks too much calcium?
is a 33 gallon tank too big for a single gecko?
p.s. she is quite skinny and hasnt been eating very much, but i did recently change the decor, and how should i supply its calcium?
and i have another that is eating and has a plump tail and looks healthy, but it is quite lethargic even at night, i have watched him a little
Fred/Annie: They will eat as much calcium as they need. I'm not sure about an overdose. I'm not sure of the deminsions of a 33 gallon tank, but a 29/30 has the same floor deminsions as a 20 long, so I assume it's not much difference. The gecko wouldn't lose massave weight just because of a decor change; it would have had to have been a previous condition. Calcium should be supplied on crickets and in a small bowl to lick, such as in a bottle cap or something like that. As for the other gecko, you can't necessarily say it's lethargic at night, unless you're watching it throughout the course of the entire night. As long as it's eating and drinking and ha a plump tail, it's probably fine. The other one sounds like it needs a vet.
thank yoyu do much it was a great help, but how often should i give them calcium and/or vitamins
Dust all feeder insects with pure calcium. Also leave a bowl of caclium in the tank at all times, replacing as needed.Minerals about twice a week.
so that means dust everyday per feed and 2 times a week for minerals
For the most part, yes. Also include the calcium bowl in the enclosure at all times.
Hey! My Leopard Gecko has been catching his mouth on his substrate lately whenever he trys to eat a cricket. I have reptile carpet in his cage and hes never had a problem with getting caought on it when eating. But, I recently noticed that when he goes to catch his cricket he catches his mouth on the reptile carpet. Do they have teeth? If so, at what age do they get them?
That is a common problem with reptile carpet. You may want to consider changing to paper towels, roll out shelf liner, or tile. They ahve small teeth, yes.
I have a question about whether I should use an under the enclosure heater for my leopard gecko. Originally I was going to use a 20 gal aquarium I already had at home to house my new gecko, but the owner of the vivarium where I went to buy crickets talked me into spending big bucks ;-0 on an enclosure built specifically for reptiles. He said glass tanks would not keep in the heat well enough and that external heaters of all types were a fire hazard. However, everything I've read the past couple of days says that geckos require heat from below. (The enclosure which I bought has 2 built in light fixtures in the lid - a red one and a regular one. What I am wondering is whether it is safe or necessary for me to place an underneath heating pad as well. What concerns me is the material from which this enclosure is made - it is some kind of thick material, I think it is synthetic but not positive. The tank has this material on all sides, bottom and top and then the front side is glass. The material has been painted blue with little black and white speckles which vaguely resembles granite, if that helps you to recognize the type of enclosure Im talking about. The top opens with a hinge. So anyway, will the heat from the reptile heating pad even penetrate this material? Will the material burn or melt? I've only had our little gecko for 3 days but so far he/she is eating and excreting normally. (It is only about 3 weeks old - we picked it up at a Tarantula Society trade show). Thank you so much!
I'm not sure what enclosure you're talking about (although I want to say I vaguely remember seeing something like this), but if you think about it anything with electrical cords is going to be a fire hazard. I think you got talked into something you didn't need, especially if you say you spent a good bit more on the product.
Yes, you do need the under tank heater for belly heat, as leopard geckos are terrestrial and use belly heat to help digest their food. Under tank heaters are built for glass; they can be more of a fire hazard risk when used with plastic or any other materials.
The glass tanks are perfectly fine at keeping heat, especially when you have an under tank heater that is appropriately sized for the tank. I prefer the ZooMed ones, as they last longer and put off more heat.
all my leopard gecko does is claw at the glass and get up on her hind legs and does wat seems to me and escape effort. is she trying to get out is there anything wrong with the enclosure? she never ever wants to sit still.
How long have you had the gecko? Have you changed anything in the enclosure? What are the exact temperatures read by a proper thermometer?
umm i hsve had her for about 7 years or so, and i have changed something but it was a while ago, and the tempertures are at 80
I have a question about my leopard geckos stomach. He has a black spot inside his stomach. His stomach is see-through. I can;t figure out if its food hes not digesting or what. Would you have any idea of what it might be?
Hi everyone- I have had the same gecko for 5 years. I did not purchase him, my boyfriend did before I moved in, I have been the one caring for him though. I bought him a 20 gallon tank about 2 years ago which has sand in it. I am shocked to hear that it is not safe to do that. I feel horrible!! I have been thinking about getting him a friend. Is it safe to do so? He has been by himself for a long time. Im just not sure if that is a good idea. Please let me know. Thanks
John, your temps are WAY too low! You need them to be closer to 90F
Lauren, it's probably the liver. You can typically see the liver on younger geckos. They generally appear a shade of blue. Otherwise, if you're housing on sand or something of that nature, it could be impaction.
Tiffany, you should first remove the sand. Second if it is a boy you can only put a female in the enclosure, and in that case they will mate. Leopard geckos are better off housed solo in any case.
Hey Whitney,
I read your article and many comments from these users. I have a feeling I know a little more than most but still have my questions. So, I have owned many lizards but this Friday, I am set to receive a $550 super tangerine leopard gecko from a breeder in california. He is small, still unsexed and weighs around 8 grams, maybe a little more. He will be solid orange with 90% carrot tail. Anyway, I read your article but was wondering about the lighting, I understand it's not important but wouldn't a fluorescent light make more sense than a clamp light? Also, do the zoo med UTH's have the stick side? If so, how do you heat the bottom of the tank if it's not stuck on the tank? Weird question but I am going to get this stuff tomorrow and just want to understand what's best. Also, for this little guy, should I get a 10 gallon or 20? He is so small, that's why but I am leaning toward the 20 as I will have all the essentials you recommend. I am a little stressed too regarding this little guys trip. I live in AZ and the breeder will be shipping so it arrives first thing in the morning but what should I do the first 24 hours and 48 hours for it? Should I not turn on the light, should I feed it, touch it.... etc? I just want to make sure I take care of this investment right.
Thanks!
First off, I'm not sure who you purchased from, but under 15 grams and the gecko shouldn't have been shipped. It's also hard to tell the extent of the carrot tail from 8 grams, even if the parents were 100% carrot tail, it's not guaranteed. I've seen 90% carrot tails of high quality tangerine and overall appearance closer to $900.
Flourescent lighting doesn't do anything for the geckos. If you're going to use lighting, it's cheaper and more efficient to use a regular clamp light. The zoo meds under tank heaters do have the one side with sticky, but it's easier not to stick them to the tank because you still have to clean the tank and the wire will easily get in the way. When I used tanks, I propped them up on tile to vent the bottom and then had another tile under the UTH, propping it up to the glass.
Make sure that you have everything BEFORE the gecko arrives. 20 gallons is better, as it will provide optimum space for 2 dry hides, 1 humid hide, and water bowl.
Just leave the gecko alone for up to 5-7 days so that it can adjust. And being so small, I am really surprised anyone was willing to ship it. And, generally, they're n ot sold unsexed, since they can be temperature sexed. Generally breeders will tell you temp sexed male or female if the gecko isn't visibly sexed.
Just because you've purchased a $550 gecko, it doesn't necessarily mean that you have more knowledge than the others who have posted questions, as you've asked pretty simple questions of a beginner. You've also asked questions similar to others who have just purchased their first gecko from a pet store. No offense, just making an observation.
If you're planning on breeding, remember that you're probably not going to be able to sell offspring for $550 unless you already have a big reputation for yourself. Plus, the market for leopard geckos is going down. Too many breeders, so the price has been driven down.
Sheesh, you've got an attitude. I didn't bring an attitude but you sure did. Buh-bye!
There was no attititude intended with my reply. I was just trying to help, and I'm sorry you took it as though I was giving an attitude. I was trying to make that clear with the no offense and whatnot. I'm sorry if I offended you with what I said, like I was trying to say, I was just making an observation.
Another observation that the breeder you purchased from may not be qualified, is that he's shipping on a Thursday for a Friday delivery. If anything happens during shipment to cause the package to get lost, it'll be stuck somewhere on a weekend when most carriers do not work so the gecko can't be found and sent to you until Monday, which means the gecko may fry with high temps, of freeze during cooler months.
Hi Whitney, I hope you're still keeping up this information and answering questions. I read your website and have followed everything you suggested, with a few problems. I decided to go with the carpet over papertowels, just for appearances sake. My little gecko, Slowpoke, is very active. He's roughly 3" long. I haven't started handling him yet, though I am slowly introducing myself to him. I have a few questions I hope you can help me with.
1. I bought crickets (small) and have purchased Fluker's Cricket Quencher to gut pack them. I also dust them every other day with Fluker's Calcium Powder. I haven't been able to find anything to use as a Calcium bowl, can you help me that? I didn't find anything in the store (PetCo).
2. He's very active, which surprises me. He likes to rest on the warm side and runs all over the cool side. Do I need a humid hide all the time or just when shedding?
3. I'm having a trouble regulating the temperature. I am using ZooMed's UTH for the 10g tank I have him in. I can't get the temperature up to 90. It hovers in the mid 80's with 40-44% humidity in the tank. What can I do/use/buy to get the hot side up to 90 like it needs to be?
Thank you so much! My nephew and I are enjoying Slowpoke but want to make sure he gets everything he needs.
Any small container or bowl will work. It's not going to say calcium bowl. You can also use a cleansed bottle top. Humid hide all the time, but only moist when in shed. Are you measuring the temperatures on the surface of the tank with a digital thermometer with a probe?
I'll use the cap for the Calcium. Yes, I got a thermometer (Fluker's again!) and it's probe is sitting right at the surface of the glass, above the UTH. I'll get the humid hide (I'll use paper towels for it). Can you recommend a product for the Calcium bowl?
Are you in asking in reference to the brand of calcium? I'd just suggest a fluker's brand or any brand of pure calcium. I like the jurassical.
Yeah, I was asking the brand. I'll pick up some Flukers. Thanks again for all the great info!
Yep. Any other questions, and I'll be happy to try to answer them.
i absolutely loved your postWhitney.
i'm considering getting a Leopard Gecko. i'm trying to figure out what would be the best pet for us right now. leaning towards the leopard gecko the most at the moment.
in your post you say not to use potting soil, is this because of the risk of being injested like sand?
Hi Whitney!
I've been researching leo geckos for awhile now. In my enclosure i have a reptile carpet, a small hide with moist paper towel and a water dish on the cool side. A little cap with calcium is on the cool side aswell. On the hot side i have a UTH as well as a "Daylight Blue Reptile Bulb" 60 Watts by Zoo-Med shining over the hot side as well. The digital thermometer reads 88.2 and is rising. I'm not quite sure what side to have the light on? It's only on for 12 hours a day and i didn't really want it on the cool side cause it would warm up the water and make it evaporate. What should I do?
Tam any loose substrates, such as sand and soil, has a high risk of impaction.
Chris, you want the light to go on the same side as the under tank heater. If the temps are stable between 88-90F you should be fine, even with a few degrees above 90 will be ok, but definitely no more than 92F. If the surface temps start to reach higher than that, you'll want to lower the wattage of the bulb or opt for no lighting. Typically though light only heats the air and his little to no impact on the surface temperatures unless you're using a heat emitting bulb.
that makes sense.
i was considering having live plants and that's why i was asking about the potting soil.
i believe my tank is about 20 gallons. i can't find my measuring tape so i'm going to eyeball it. i believe it's about two feet long x one foot wide and one foot deep. would you say that's about 20 gallons?i need to clean it out and stuff.
i'm not sure what i want to put in it. i was considering getting a bearded dragon as i've wanted one for years, however i know it would out grow this tank and at this point in time i don't want to have to transfer it to a new tank.
also, i like that the leopard gecko doesn't require the UV lighting (also considering a crested gecko)or, just putting fish in it.
i read a little bit about snakes but quickly crossed out that idea. for the same reason as above, the need for a larger tank. most snakes i read about are at the very least three to five feet long. and i do have a young child so i don't feel comfortable with an animal that could be a risk to his safety. also, the thought of potentially needing to feed live rodents doesn't appeal too much to me. (had too many hampsters and various other fury little creatures growing up lol)
so yeah, that's kind of where i am right now.
i'm going to do some more research on what kind of pet would be fitting for our home and life style, i'm leaning most towards either the leopard or crested gecko or just fish (though i have to read up on what kind of fish i would want, i've had fish growing up but want to look at different kinds and stuff before i decide on what i get)so any recommendation would be great :)i'm hoping for something on the lower side of maintenance. (ie. i wouldn't want an animal that needs hours each day socialising, can be left a long for a couple days happily. obviously still being fed and cared for)something of low risk (ie. no snakes that could harm my son, nothing that has a dangerous bite like a scorpian or something along those lines)
if you don't mind me asking do you have msn or anything like that? i would love to be able to get your opinion on some of this stuff as i see you have a lot of experience. if not that's cool :)thanks so much, i appreciate it!
You really wouldn't want to use potting soil for a natural enclosure. I have an article about setting up natrual enclosures for leopard geckos. Basically, unless you're super experiences and willing to purchase a large enclosure, it's really not recommended. Here's the link: http://hubpages.com/_reptiles/hub/Natural-Habitat-
20 gallon longs are about 30"L x 12½"W x 13"T
neither leopard geckos or crested gecko require UV. You would need to turn the cage verticle in order to put a crested gecko in it. And, yes you would need to upgrade for a bearded dragon.
a 3 foot snake isn't going to risk the safety of your child. The main concern of children and reptiles is salmonella. Rosy boas, sand boas, cornsnakes, kingsnakes, milksnakes, etc. would be fine in a 20 gallon long.
Hi Whitney. Excellent site. I'm concerned about my baby leo. He's maybe 2.5" long and from reading your site, he shouldn't have been sold yet. I noticed that on the tip of his nose, it looks like he stubbed his nose on something and injured himself. Should I be concerned about that?
He also has been licking/biting his front left foot a lot, as if it were bothering him. I use ReptiCarpet. Should I switch? Could him getting caught on the carpet cause injuries?
Today when feeding him his crickets, he let out a strange noise. It sounded like a zipper being pulled quickly.
For his hides, I use wood. Should I switch to plastic rocks?
I really enjoy him. He's beautifully colored and I don't want to see him hurt.
I removed the ReptiCarpet and put papertowels down. I'd rather be safe than see him hurt his little foot.
I've had hatchlings hatch longer than 2.5" so I'd assume the gecko is really young. Be very careful of it, and minimize handling as much as possible. He could have bumped into something in the cage, had an altercation before you purchased it, or has been rubbing against the glass. Just watch it to make sure that it doesn't get any worse. He could be getting his foot caught in the carpet, so definitely watch that now that you've changed to paper towels.
As for the noise, that's just him making noises as you freightened him.
If you're refering to the half log hide, then that's fine. Just make sure that if it starts to flake off that you remove the flakes.
hey whitney, I have my gecko enclosure all set up and I use a normal household bulb that is on a timer during the day, and i purchased a infrared light for the nighttime so i can see him, but with the redlight on and the UTH it gets way to hot for what it should be at night. What should i do? i really wanna see him in action at night.
Use a smaller wattage red bulb or purchase a different night bulb.
Hey, well the lowest red bulb i can find is like 50 watts, i found one at the dollar store but it said for outdoor usage only, would that be ok?
Also, during the day one side of the tank is about 87 degrees and the cool side is 78 degrees? is that ok?
Sorry about all the questions, my leopard seems to be shedding now. I have a moist hide ( coconut with moist paper towel in it ) on the cool side. Should i move it over to the warm side? I keep moving stuff around i hate changing the environment cause it kind of screws him up
I've seen the red bulbs at 25watts. There are other night bulbs that I've seen at 10 and 25 watts; if you really want a night light (which it's unnecessary) I'd search for one of those. I don't tihnk an outdoor bulb would work, but I'm not sure. I know the regular indoor lightbulbs work perfect, not sure about outdoor ones. 87 is ok but don't let it get any cool on the hot side. As for shedding, the humid hide should be on the warm side of the tank. You shouldn't need to move it around all the time. There should be a hide on the hot side, cool side, and the humid hide.
Should i put the humid hide in the middle? Hes sleeping in it right now on the cool side so i dont wanna move it and disrupt him, i've found little peices of skin around the tank so he must be shedding.
How do you view your gecko? Just with the room light on? cause he hides whenever i try to watch him come out :(
Middle is fine, just as close to the hot side as possible. I don't use lighting, it's not necessary to have a healthy habitiat. I use ambient room light during the day, and the lights are off at night.
I have the majority of my leopard geckos housed in a rack system, but the 2 that are in tanks have a uth and that's it- no lighting. I haven't used lighting since probably the first 6 months or so of my first leopard gecko, which was about 6 years ago (that gecko now lives happily and healthy without a light and uth only).
In time the gecko will get used to you and not run away as much.
Thanks whitney! It can be really stressful as a first time pet owner, especially when your pet is scared of you!
He doesn't come out much at night, i tried waiting up for him to come out but then i just fell asleep. He is shedding though, and i see him in his little moist hide moving around lots, shedding. Do they eat less during this period? I definitely think he enjoys meal worms over crickets and to be honest i do too. I try to feed him crickets but they usually just go hide somewhere in the tank and he has trouble finding them.
Do they sleep more and eat less while they're shedding?
When is the best time to clean their tank? I'm going to say nighttime cause they're awake (sometimes) and i really don't wanna disturb him anymore but there is a couple poops around the tank and the reptile carpet is getting dirty.
He probably comes out after you're asleep. Typically when shedding, their appetite does lower, but I've never noticed any other behavioral changes; sometimes they can be a little grouchy.
If you're talking about just removing poop, you can remove that any time, if you're referring to an entire tank clean, it still doesn't really matter. Because you just got hte gecko, I'd stick with fecal removal for now. You really only need total cleanout once a month or so, but regular poop removal. As for hte carpet, I'd say just remove the feces for now, and wash it when you do a total cleanup. It shouldn't bother him when just removing the poo
Hey!
He came out plenty tonight! He ate 3 meal worms and 2 crickets, there is one cricket left in there too he might have for a late night snack! Do you think i'm feeding him a bit too much? He is only a baby but i think hes grown a bit in the last 4 days i've had him to be honest! Maybe the pet store didn't feed him properly.
That is good to hear. Just feed what it'll eat within a 10-15 minute period.
Can you overfeed a leo? I put about 6 dusted crickets in the tank to start. If he catches and eats them all quickly, I add 1 until the 15 minute mark is up or if he loses interest. He's getting big and a fat tail, which from the pictures of the adults is a good thing.
Whitney, all I've got to provide heat is a heat lamp. Should I get a heating pad and use that instead of the light? Also, I've got one hide and its on the cool side. Do I definitely need another one for the other side? I'd like her to be as comfortable as possible and I'm very new to this so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
tom, typically they'll stop eating when they're done. just feed what the gecko will eat whatever it will within a 10-15 minute period, removing the rest.
Robert, You NEED the under tank heater. You don't necessarily need the light but you absolutely need the under tank heater. You just need one, as it'll create the warm and cool side.
I have rock heater will that work just as well?
Hot rocks can cause serioud burns, so no it's not a substitute and should not be used at all within the tank
Is there any sand at all you could use to put in there with them?
No. no loose substrate is going to be safe. You will always run risk of impaction, which is fatal.
Ok thanks
Could I use a thin carpat instead?
Yes. An indoor carpet or a commercial reptile carpet is fine.
wow i REALLY want a gecko but to tell you the truth i knew NOTHING about them but this helped me out ALOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
-Marly8000
I'm glad I could help. If you have any questions please ask.
Hey Whitney,
My baby leo is doing great, thanks to your advice! I still have a question on feeding, though. I give her 6 crickets to start, if she finishes all 6 and looks like she's looking for more I add 1 until the 15 minutes is up. Is this ok? I feel like she'd eat 20 if I let her! Should I give her more crickets to start? Or is what I'm doing sufficient?
Oh, she also prefers to hang out in her humid hide. It's a hallowed cave with moist paper towels, sitting between the warm and cool side. is that normal? Thanks!!
You can probably bump it up to at least 10 a day until you notice the gecko not eating as much. They will generally go through spurts of large appetite and low appetite. Just make sure that you're feeding small crickets that are sized appropriately for the gecko. Sometimes they do prefer the humid hide. It really only needs to be moist and humid during a shed.
Hi, I am planning on bringing my 10-year-old Leopard Gecko into my classroom as a class pet. do you have any handling tips? He is healthy and calm at home but i'm not sure if it will be the same at school.
Thak you.
I would let the gecko settle in for a few days to a week just to make sure that he's used the the classroom sounds. They you'll probably want to start handling. You'll want to take it easy with the gecko because a room of children could be stressful. Also remember that they sleep during the day and the excess noises may be stressful. Keep that in mind especially within the first few weeks.
hi. i have a young leopard gecko. i use a combination of the repti carpet and papertowels on the bottom. it helps me control temperature better. is this ok?
i also want to start holding my gecko. it is very young. maybe 4.5-5" long. the tail is not fat. i have been placing my hand, palm up, in the cage to get the gecko used to me. after about a week, while he was in the rock hide, i cleaned the cage. while on the counter, he crawled out and i was able to hold him in my hand. today, he hissed and struck at me. am i moving too fast? thank you.
oh, i have had the gecko for a month.
yes, it is fine to use the reptile carpet and paper towels in combination. The gecko is young, so as long as you continue feeding appropriately, the tail will fatten up. I'd just stick with handling within the cage, letting the gecko crawl onto your hand. It sounds like you're doing a good job.
I use just a heat lamp that keeps the tank around 95 degrees a lot of people say to use Uth or the other and some people say to use both a heat lamp and a uth but i had mine under heat lamp ever since i got him. I have had mine for 4 years now.. Its it ok for me to be doing that or should i get a uth with the heat lamp it does stay at 95 for 12 hours then turn off with a timer i but on it...
Is the surface of tank 95? or the air temps? Typically you have to have an undertank heater in order to provide proper temperatures. Leopard geckos are terrestrial which means they need surface heat to properly digest their food.If you're using a stick on thermometer, then those things are far from accurate and I'd recommend a digital thermometer with a probe.
Angela Harris says:
15 months ago
These creatures fascinate me, but I admit I know next to nothing about them. You've provided excellent info for anyone that needs to know how to care for them.