The smorgasbord (meaning: sandwich table) is a buffet offering many small dishes from which people can serve themselves according to their appetites and personal tastes. Smorgasbord is most probably a development from the brannvinsbord (meaning: Spirits table), which has been popular since the middle of the 18th century. The centerpiece was a small barrel of aquavit with small dishes of food around it and was offered to a houseguest on arrival.

The origin of the brannvinsbord and it's evolution into the smorgasbord shows parallels with the Russian zakuski. The richer the host and the more distinguished the guests, the greater the choice was of aquavit and dishes. Neighbours competed with each other to demonstrate their prosperity, and in this way, more dishes were gradually added.

In due course, the choice of dishes became increasingly large and extensive, but the brannvinsbord centerpiece remained. In well off households, the centerpiece was a magnificent silver plated drinks service, with seperate containers for the different kinds of spirits on a receptacle filled with ice. This was equipped with taps from which people could serve themselves.

It was thought to be inappropriate to drink more than six shots of spirits with a meal. Because of the strict laws which were introduced for serving alcohol in 1917, the smorgasbord diminished in significance and was only available in a smaller version; the hors d'oeuvre smor, ost och sill (butter, cheese and herring).

Since the beginning of the 1960's the smorgasbord has been undergoing a renaissance. Though nowdays it is really only available in restaurants as the Swedish have lost the habit of offering a smorgasbord at home. A real smorgasbord consists of at least four courses.

• For the first course, sill (herring) or stromming (baltic herring) is served in various ways.
• The second course consists of shrimp, salmon, egg dishes and cold salads, and can include: sliced joints of meats or ham, pate and sausages. Though sometimes the meat dishes form a seperate course of their own. Pickled gherkins, red beet and mixed pickles are served as an accompaniment.
• The third course offers warm dishes such as meatballs, fish and sausages browned under the grill.
• The forth course consists of cheese, fruit, desserts and cakes.

The smorgasbord is eaten properly when it is enjoyed course by course, adhering to the proper sequence. It is customary to not fill your plate completely, but to return to the buffet table several times, and to take a clean plate on every occasion.

The herring is an indespensable component of the smorgasbord, and traditionally forms the first course. It is recognised that no one understands how to prepare herring as well as the Swedish. The fish has almost attained the rank of a refined delicacy thanks to the extensive range of imaginative herring dishes that exist.

The Swedish distinguish between sill (herring) and stromming (baltic herring). Only herrings which are caught north of a line which runs from the old fortress city of Kalmar through the island of Oland to Liepaja in Estonia are called stromming. As a rule, this fish is smaller and not as fatty as the ordinary herring, but it is prepared in the same way.

Although the Swedes do eat fresh and salted herring in hot dishes, the real culinary highpoint is formed by the cold recipes. The basis of these dishes are salted and seasoned herring, fresh (or green) herring pickled in sugar and salt and dried, fried or smoked herring. A smoked stromming is called bockling, the English term would be bloater.

The most poular way of preparing herring is in a marinade. Fillets of salted herring which have been skinned are soaked for three to eight hours and placed in a marinade of spirit vinegar, water, sugar, onion rings, black pepper, pimiento and bay leaves. When served, the herring fillets are halved and garnished with red onion rings and a little of the marinade.

Herring fillets which are fresh, rolled and lightly poached in a stock can be served in a variety of ways. When prepared in a sauce made from tomato paste and onions with seasoning, they are called tomatsill, basically translating as herring in tomato sauce. When served with a curried mayonnaise sauce, they are called karrysill. You can see where these translations are going! Herring fillets tossed in egg and breadcrums then fried and left to cool, and then placed in a sweetened vinegar marinade with onions, are called attiksill or attikstromming. Not such an obvious translation there.

Salted herring also form the basis of different salads. Fillets which have been soaked and cut into pieces are mixed with apples, onions, pickled red beet, sliced boiled potatoes and sometimes even cold meats. This would then be dressed with a vinaigrette made from vinegar, oil, salt, pepper and sometimes Dijon mustard.

Fresh herring marinated in salt and sugar is called gravad sill. This has quite a different texture to salted herring which is matured in barrels. A popular way of serving this is in a sauce of sweet mustard and dill.

Surstromming (pickled herring) is a herring from the Baltic Sea and is preserved by means of fermentation in lactic acid. Originally it was buried to accomplish this. This method of conservation is very old and is still in use, albeit in the most varied forms amongst the people who live around the North Pole.

The chemical reaction involved is as follows:

Loactose is broken down by lactic acid bacteria, resulting in a deposit of lactic acid.

Because of the process of decomposition which takes place during fermentation, a pungent smell arises which most pople find extremely unpleasant. As a result of the smell, the surstromming is a delicacy only for herring connoisseurs who can tolerate the stench in order to taste the excellent flavour.

To make the surstromming, the lightly salted herring must be placed in an open barrel for eight days. The barrel is covered and turned upside down and kept in a cool place. Tradition dictates that the surstromming should mature by St Bartholomew's Day (August 24).

Surstromming is mainly eaten with bread, onions, sour cream or milk and cheese. It is available all over Sweden in tins.

• 2 salted herrings (soaked for at least 12 hours)
• 4 tablespoons white wine vinegar
• 3 tablespoons oil
• 6 tablespoons tomato paste
• 4 teaspoons sugar
• pinch of white pepper
• 4 pimiento seeds crushed
• 1 bunch of chives
• 4 tablespoons water

1. Fillet the herring, cut into pieces and place in a bowl.
2. In a bowl, mix the vinegar, oil, tomato paste and seasoning into the water.
3. Pour the liquid over the pieces of fish.
4. Refrigerate overnight.
5. Sprinkle the fish with chives and serve.

• 2 salted herrings (soaked for at least 12 hours)
• 125ml vinegar
• 75g sugar
• 2 tablespoons mustard seeds
• 6 pimiento seeds
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 red onions
• 1 carrot
• 4 cm piece of horseradish root
• 4 thin slices of root ginger
• 125ml water

1. Fillet the herring and cut into pieces 2 cm wide.
2. Put water, vinegar, sugar and seasoning in a pan and bring to the boil. Stir until the sugar has dissolved.
3. Leave to cool.
4. Peel and slice the onion, carrot and horseradish root.
5. Layer the herring and vegetables alternately in a tall jar.
6. Pour the cooled marinade over the contents of the jar.
7. Cover and refrigerate for 2-3 days.

• 2 salted herring (soaked for at least 12 hours)
• 1 bunch dill
• 1 onion
• 6 pimiento seeds
• 250ml vinegar
• 5 tablespoons sugar
• 250ml water

1. Fillet the herring and cut into pieces 2cm wide.
2. Chop the dill.
3. Peel the onion and cut into rings.
4. Crush the pimiento seeds.
5. Layer the fish and other ingredients alternately in a tall jar.
6. Place the water, vinegar and sugar in a pan and bring briefly to the boil.
7. Stir until the sugar has dissolved.
8. Pour the liquid over the contents of the jar and refrigerate for 2 days.

Shrimp, salmon, egg dishes and cold salads.

Vastkustsallad / Western Coast Salad

• 150g mushrooms
• sprinkle of lemon juice
• 250g fresh or frozen peas
• 250g asparagus
• 500g shrimps
• 500g mussels cooked and pulled from their shells
• 1 small iceberg lettuce
• 4 tablespoons white wine vinegar
• pinch of salt
• pinch of sugar
• chopped dill
• 6 tablespoons oil

1. Slice the mushrooms and sprinkle with lemon juice.
2. Cook the peas and asparagus in lightly salted water.
3. Wash and chop the lettuce.
4. Cut the asparagus into pieces.
5. Mix the vegetables and seafood together.
6. In a bowl, stir together the oil, vinegar, salt, sugar and dill.
7. Pour the dressing over the salad and serve.

• 8 anchovy fillets chopped
• 1 onion peeled and chopped
• 2 slices of pickled red beet, finely chopped
• 6 parsley sprigs, finely chopped
• 2 boiled potatoes cut into cubes
• 1 egg yolk

1. Place the chopped anchovies in the middle of a shallow plate.
2. Arrange the onions around the outside of the anchovies.
3. Next make a ring of parsley around the outside of the onions.
4. Place the chopped red beet around the outside of the parsley to form the outer ring.
5. Place the egg yolk in the center on top of the anchovies.
6. Serve.

• 1 can of cod roe
• 1 bunch chives
• 2 beaten eggs
• 300ml milk
• pinch of white pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 200C / 400F.
2. Mash the cod roe with a fork and mix in the chives.
3. Stir the eggs into the milk, mix with the roe and season with pepper.
4. Place the mixture into a greased ovenproof dish and bake for 30 minutes.
5. Serve.

• 1 pike (approximately 2kg)
• 1 cucumber
• pinch of salt
• pinch of white pepper
• 2 hard boiled eggs
• 100g rice
• 2 tablespoons chopped onions
• 150g butter
• 2 tablespoons of finely chopped parsley
• 1 tablespoon chives
• 3 tablespoons single cream
• 6 tablespoons bread crumbs

1. Clean, gut and scale the pike and remove the backbone, head and tail. For the easy option, get your fishmonger to do this for you!
2. Peel the cucumber, remove the pith and chop into cubes.
3. Place the pieces of cucumber into a bowl, sprinkle with salt and set aside for about 5 minutes.
4. Drain away the water extracted by the salt and dry the cucumber with a paper towel.
5. Chop the hard boiled eggs coarsely.
6. Cook the rice in plenty of salted water, drain and leave to one side to cool.
7. Saute the cucumber and onion in a little butter until soft.
8. Mix the cucumber, onion, eggs, rice and herbs in a bowl and season well.
9. Add the cream and stir.
10. Preheat the oven to 180C / 350F.
11. Wash and dry the fish and fill the inside with the rice mixture.
12. Close the opening of the fish with small woodern skewers and string.
13. Pour a little hot water over the pike.
14. Sprinkle bread crumbs onto the sides of the fish and press gently with the palms of the hands to make them stick.
15. Melt the rest of the butter in a large ovenproof dish.
16. Place the pike in the dish.
17. Put into the oven.
18. Bake on both sides until golden brown. Around 30 miuntes. Be careful that the fish doesn't fall apart when turning.
19. Serve either in the dish or carefully lift the pike onto a serving platter and decorate with hard boiled eggs and dill.

Kottbullarn / Meatballs

• 4 tablespoons chopped onions
• 100g pureed potato
• 3 tablespoons bread crumbs
• 500g ground beef
• 5 tablespoons single cream
• 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 egg
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 2 tablespoons oil

1. Cook the onions in a little oil until they are transparent.
2. Mix together the pureed potato, bread crumbs, ground beef, cream, parsley, salt, egg and cooked onions.
3. Stir thoroughly.
4. Take small handfulls of the mixture and mould into round balls.
5. Place the meatballs next to each other on a baking tray and cover.
6. Refrigerate for an hour.
7. Heat some butter and oil in a deep frying pan.
8. Fry the meat balls in batches stirring constantly until they are brown. Around 12 minutes.
9. Once the meatballs are cooked keep them warm.
10. Serve.

This fine ground beef dish is allegedly named after the famous Swedish actor Carl-Gustav Lindstrom (1818-1893).

• 8 tablespoons of bread crumbs.
• 250ml milk
• 1 peeled onion
• 2 slices of pickled red beet
• 1 pickled gherkin
• 500g ground beef
• pinch of salt
• pinch of black pepper
• 6 capers

1. Put the bread crumbs into the milk and leave to soak for 10 minutes.
2. Chop the onion, red beet and gherkin finely.
3. Cook the onions until they are transparent.
4. Season the meat with salt and pepper, then mix with the bread, milk.and other ingedients.
5. Make equal sized patties out of the mixture.
6. Fry them on a high heat in butter until both sides are brown. Around 10 minutes.
7. The burgers can each be served with a fried egg on top if desired.

• 500g peeled potatoes
• 500g boiled or roast beef
• 250g boiled ham
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 2 tablespoons oil
• 2 tablespoons chopped onions
• pinch of salt
• pinch of black pepper
• 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
• Eggs or egg yolks for decoration

1. Cut the potatoes and meat into cubes.
2. Heat some butter and oil in a deep frying pan.
3. Cook the potatoes on a medium heat for 15 minutes.
4. Remove the potatoes from the pan and leave to drain on kitchen paper.
5. Cook the onions until they are transparent.
6. Add the cubes of meat and cook over a high heat for 10 minutes.
7. Place the potatoes back into the pan and reheat.
8. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with parsley.
9. This dish should be served with a fried egg or raw egg yolk placed in the middle of each portion.

• 500g roast beef
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 2 tablespoons oil
• 2 onions, peeled and chopped
• 6 medium sized potatoes peeled and cut into thin slices
• pinch of salt
• pinch of black pepper
• 4 pimiento seeds crushed
• 1 bay leaf
• 750ml dark beer

1. Preheat the oven to 175C / 350F
2. Cut the roast beef into thin slices.
3. Heat oil in a frying pan over a high heat.
4. Place the roast beef into the hot oil and warm briefly.
5. Remove the meat from the frying pan and place in an ovenproof dish.
6. Reduce the heat and cook the onions in the pan used to warm the meat. Cook until transparent.
7. Add to the meat the potatoes and carrot.
8. Season and mix well.
9. Add the crushed pimiento seeds and bay leaf, and pour the dark beer evenly over the contents of the ovenproof dish.
10. Cook in the preheated oven for 50 minutes.
11. Serve.

• 1kg medium sized potatoes peeled
• 2 cans anchovy fillets
• 5 onions, peeled and chopped into thin slices
• pinch of white pepper
• 500ml single cream
• 3 tablespoons bread crumbs
• flakes of butter

1. Cut the potatoes into thin slices.
2. Drain the anchovies (preserving the oil) and chop them into small pieces.
3. Preheat the oven to 200C / 400F.
4. Layer the potatoes, onions and anchovies alternately in a greased ovenproof dish.
5. Season each layer with white pepper.
6. The top layer must be that of potato.
7. Sprinkle with a little anchovy oil and add the cream evenly.
8. Top with bread crumbs and flakes of butter.
9. Cover and bake for 60 minutes in the preheated oven.
10. Remove the cover from the dish for the last 15 minutes of cooking.

Ostkaka / Cheesecake

This cheesecake is in fact more like a pudding.

• 125g soft butter
• 70g sugar
• 1 egg
• 250g flour
• 1 teaspoon baking powder

For the cheese filling:

• 50g butter
• 3 eggs
• 175g sugar
• 750g low fat farmer's cheese
• 500ml sour cream
• 60g corn starch
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 125g currants

1. Stir the butter, sugar and egg together, then add the flour and baking powder.
2. Knead quickly into short pastry.
3. Wrap the dough so it stays fresh and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
4. Preheat the oven to 190C / 375F
5. Fill the bottom of a round cake tin (preferably a spring form) with half of the dough and blind bake for about 20 minutes in the oven.
6. Mix together all the ingredients for the cheese mixture.
7. Make the sides of the cake from the rest of the dough by placing the dough around the inside edge of the cake tin, making sure that it touches the dough on the bottom.
8. Place the cheese mixture into the cake tin with the dough.
9. Reduce the oven temperature to 180C / 350F.
10. Bake for an hour.
11. Leave to cool for 2-3 hours.
12. Serve.

• 500g mixed redcurrants and blackcurrants
• 4- tablespoons corn starch
• sugar
• 2 cartons of whipped cream
• 2 packets vanilla sugar
• 200ml water

1. Wash the redcurrants and blackcurrants.
2. Simmer the fruit in the water and stir to make a liquid pulp.
3. Strain through a sieve.
4. Remove a few tablespoons of the liquid and leave to cool.
5. Stir the starch into the removed liquid.
6. Sweeten the remaining liquid with sugar to taste.
7. Heat the sweetened liquid again.
8. Stir in the dissolved starch.
9. Bring briefly to the boil.
10. Pour into dessert bowls.
11. Refrigerate for several hours until firm.
12. Dissolve the vanilla sugar in the cream and pour over the jelly.
13. Serve.