Stick Welding Technology

A portable welder with an AC/DC output, whether its an electric arc machine or a gas engine drive...

Bear in mind the duty cycles, which means the number of minutes out of a 10-minute cycle a welder can operate.

For example, a machine that creates a 200 amp DC output at 20 percent duty cycle. It can weld continuously at 200 amps for two minutes...

And then must cool for eight minutes to prevent overheating.

Duty cycle and amperage are in general, relative to the work load.

Operating at 90 amps, with a 100 percent duty cycle, means you can weld without stopping.

In my experience DC welding offers advantages over AC for most Stick applications, including:

Easier starts

Fewer arc outages and sticking

Less spatter and much better looking welds

Easier vertical up and overhead welding

Easier to learn with and a smoother arc...

DC reverse polarity (electrode positive) provides about 10 percent more penetration at a given amperage than AC...

On the other hand DC straight polarity (electrode negative) welds thinner metals better.

However AC output does have its advantages too.

Like if you need to weld farm equipment or material that's become magnetized from friction...

For example; when hay, feed or water constantly rub against a steel part.

A DC output won't work because of "arc blow," where the magnetic field blows the molten filler metal out of the weld puddle.

The advantage of AC, because an AC output alternates between polarities, it enables you to weld magnetized parts.

The type of surface being welded can also affect weld characteritics including strength of welded parts and finish...

Should you remove rust or oil before welding?

Stick welding because of its very nature is more forgiving on unclean surfaces...

TIP: It never hurts to clean parts with a wire brush or grind off excess rust.

Sometimes...even great welding skills cannot overcome poor surface preparation, as it can lead to cracking, lack of fusion and slag inclusions.

In general...if you get into the habit, prepare well and have average welding ability, you can make just about any job seem quicker and easier.

And if you select the right type of rod, half the work is already done.

For general purpose welding work on steel, a common electrode used include 6010, 6011, 6013, 7018 and 7024, each of which has specific properties.

6010 electrodes penetrate deeply...

While 6013 electrodes penetrate less.

For much better bead appearance and work on higher strength steels (for a hitch), use a 7018 rod.

For better penetration on thick material, grind the joint to a 30 degree bevel (leave a nickel-width land on the bottom of the groove) and make multiple passes.

Alternatively, make the first pass with a 6010 rod, then make a "cap" with a 7018.

The 7024 rod is perhaps the easiest to use. Also known as a "drag rod," this electrode's thick flux automatically maintains the correct arc length...

Which allows you more control over draging rod directly along the work piece.

What determines how big of machine do you need?

Usually and this depends on the specific requirement, a good rule of thumb is to go for a range from 225 to 300 amp...most modern machine can handle almost anything you'll encounter...

Most Stick welding procedures require 200 amps or less.

To weld material thicker than 3/8 inch., simply make multiple passes - this is what professionals do, even when welding on 1 inch structural steel...