When people think of California and the Pacific Ocean, one of the first things that comes to mind is surfing. A good majority of people who come to visit or move out here end up wanting to learn how to surf. Why not? It seems logical right? When in Rome……

People watch the surfers at the local break and think, “Wow it looks so easy and fun, I think I’ll try.” Of course it is fun, but easy, now that’s another story. When people finally get out there and try to catch their first wave, the finally realize it’s not as easy as it looks.

They finally get that you have to have enough arm streangth to paddle yourself into the wave, then you have to pop up and balance and then hope you can steer yourself so as not to crash into another surfer. Most people go out and find someone to teach them, someone who will explain to them that it’s best to start out with a soft board. Someone who gets them used to popping up on the beach before trying it on an unstable wave, someone who explains to them that it’s best to paddle out in between sets and where exactly they should try to catch the wave.

Lord knows there are dangers out there such as, drowning, collisions, sea life and the local surfers. What I have found though is most people teaching other people how to surf, always lack when explaining to their pupil about the seasons, swell direction, winds and tide. Those four things are just as important as learning to pop up, or where and how to paddle out.

Seasons are important to surfing, and lets get this straight, just because it’s California does not mean it’s warm all of the time. Nor does it mean that the ocean temperature is warm. The Pacific is not like the Atlantic, and most people in California use wetsuits even in the summer months.

Seasons not only tell the kind of weather to expect, they also indicate the type of swell and the months in which to expect it.

Fall (September-November) This is considered one of the best times to surf. During these months you get the chance to ride both summer and winter surf. Late south swells still break in September and October and by the middle of October the first north and west swells begin to form. During the summer the sands have had a chance to settle, leaving a contoured bottom over which the first winter swells break with machine-like precision.

Winter (November-March) These are generally cold, wet months of the year. Months when the ocean temperature drops noticeably as cold currents flow down from Alaska. Winter surf is big, strong and consistent, it is also upredictable. Strong winds, currents and shifting bottom sand make for erratic and ureliable breaking patterns. If you are not a strong swimmer, these are the months to go to the gym and build up your upper body streangth.

Spring(March-May) Most of the local surfers condisder these months the waiting months. You are waiting for summer surf. Winter swells still break but show a steady decrease in size and frequency. They come and go quickly, lasting only a day or two. Usually in May the first signs of summer are felt. South swells once again begin to rumble out of the South Pacific.

Summer (May-September) South swells are sporadic though May and most of June. But as summer moves along they steadily increase in size and frequency. A series of 3-6 foot swells can be counted on through September and freak summer swells even break in October. In general, summer surf is smaller, less frequent and not as strong as winter.

 On of the most important elements affecting California surf is the direction from which the swell originates. This geographical position determines which areas will receive the swell and the shape of the surf when it breaks. For example Malibu Point breaks during a south swell, but a north or west swell have no effect. Also, a northwest swell will break at almost every spot in Santa Cruz except for Stockton Ave. which needs a south swell.

North Swell: A winter swell, generated by storms in the North Pacific. Common from December through February. Average size: 3-6 feet, can reach 10-15. Can carry a large amount of power.

West Swell: Originates in the Western Pacific. Common during fall and spring months. Size averages from 3-6 feet. Variations such as “southwest” or “northwest” occur as storms move north or south of the equator.

South Swell: These swells come from storms in the South Pacific. Most common between May and September. Average size: 3-6 feet. 8-15 foot swells are not unusual up the Central Coast. These swells generally appear as long, well-defined lines, visible for miles.

Wind Swell/Peak Swell: A “Local” swell. Usually created by a strong wind 100-200 miles from shore. They appear bumpy and irregular but can produce some nice surf. Sizes range from 1-8 feet. Common for 1 or 2 days after a storm or strong wind.

 Sea winds have a tremendous effect on surfing in California. They directly influence both the wave’s shape and the ocean’s surface condition. Wind can quickly turn smoth well shaped surf into un-ridable chop in matter of minutes. It is important to understand where they come form and the effects they produce.

Northwest Wind: The normal sea breeze. It usually starts by late morning and lasts throughout the day. This wind blows “onshore” and destroys the surf. Sometimes it dies off as sunset approaches. This produces what is called an “evening glass off” which makes for smooth water that’s perfect for surfing.

Northeast Wind: A rare winter wind. Usually follows a rainstorm and last only a day or two. It can produce either an “offshore” or “sidewind” effect on the surf, depending upon the geographical location of the surf spot.

South Wind: An unfavorable breeze from a southerly direction. Its rare, but when it blows the ocean quickly turns to bumpy chop.

Santa Ana Winds: This is a warm, desert wind that is found in Southern California. It blows “offshore” producing fast, hard breaking surf. It is common during the summer and fall months, but can occur anytime. It wrecks havoc during wild fire season, but it makes for great surfing.

These winds produce the following effects upon the surf:

Onshore: Unfavorable. Blows onto the land and quickly destroys any semblance of smooth water.

Offshore: A beneficial wind. Blows off the land and directly into thee oncoming surf. Not only does it smooth the water but it momentarily holds the crest allowing the surfer time to slip beneath.

Sidewind: Can be a favorable wind if it’s not too strong. Blows parallel to the shore and produces conditions similar to an offshore. Common a day or two after a winter storm.

The natural movement of the tides has an important effect on surfing. It determines both when and where you surf and the shape of the waves once you get there. Depending on the size of the swell, many areas will be ridable at one tide but not another. For example, some reefs are unridable at low tide due to exposed rocks and holes. These same reefs are safe at any other tide. Or spots located in front of cliffs may be un-surfable at high tide due to waves rebounding off the rocks.

The tide also affects the shape of the surf. At lower tides waves tend to break top to bottom leaving very little room for maneuvering. As the volume of water increases (incoming high tide), the waves become thicker with larger areas on in which to surf. You should remember that these are general statements and each spot is different. Only by experiencing the tide change will you learn the characteristics of that particular area.

As you see, there is a lot more to surfing then being able to pop up and stay on the board. Get to know the spot you want to surf at. Do some research and investigate the area. Find out what season is best to surf it, and on what type of swell and tide it breaks on. It will make your surfing experience a lot more enjoyable and help you to better understand the ocean. It will also help you to understand what type of board you should be using at that particular break. Most important, when finding someone to teach you how to surf, ask them how familiar they are with the breaks in the area. Make sure you ask them questions about the seasons, swells, winds and tide. If they are locals and good at what they do, they should have no problems explaining this information to you.

Surfing in California can be a great experience, all you need is the right information, the stamina to stay out there, an appreciation of the Pacific Ocean (and a little fear), and a good teacher.

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