Surfing the NW: Cannon Beach, Oregon

 

Surf City, Pacific NW:

Cannon Beach, Oregon is the epitome of the Pacific Northwest surfing town.  This popular beach berg brings a sport known largely for its intense vibe and fierce localism and places it in a region often recognized for its friendly nature.  What you get from this clash of cultures is a fun and energetic band of surfers that flock from all over the region.  You will find the full range of surfing experience from veteran riders out to enjoy some nice waves, to beginning surfers looking to learn the basics.  Regardless of your skill level, CannonBeach may be just the place you are looking for.

 

If you happen to roll into town on a warm summer morning, you will likely notice the large number of cars with boards stacked on the roof rack two and three high.  Oddly, however, if you roll into town on a not so warm summer morning, you may still see a fair number of cars with stacks of boards mounted on top.  In an area like the Pacific Northwest, that boasts such a variety of  weather, a few clouds or a spell of rain are not likely to scare off too many weekend adventurers.

Where to Go:

Jeff at ShortIndianBeach

CannonBeach sits between two popular surfing spots; IndianBeach, located in EcolaState Park immediately to the North, and ShortSandsBeach located in Oswald West State Park 5 miles south.  Just a note, however, Northwest surfing should probably be performed by true Pacific Northwesterners only.  Mainly because although a good wetsuit does an amazing job of protecting your body from the frigid conditions, the repeated assault cold and salty whitewash that seems so refreshing to us, may tend to dishearten those of less hearty nature.  For those of you who are from around here and are accustomed to playing in the outdoors all year around, the idea of cold water and crashing waves is probably reason enough to give it a try.

 

Short SandsBeach

 

Bridge on path to Short SandsBeach

Perhaps the best way for a beginner to get the full experience is to rent a board and wetsuit from one of the local shops, secure a campsite at Oswald West State Park (first come first served) and spend the next few days enjoying the great outdoors.  The campsites and the actual beach are nearly a half mile from the main road.  You can access both via a gravel trail that winds through the trees.  Wheel barrows are available for packing your gear down to your spot and firewood is for sale at the park office.  ShortSandsBeach can be described as the quintessential Pacific Northwest beach…Old-growth Sitka Spruce forest opening up to the horseshoe shaped Smuggler’s Cove bordered by towering rocks and covered in soft white sand.  The nearby hills have even provided Short Sands Creek, a handy cool water

Short Sands Creek

stream running right down the middle of the beach that is perfect for rinsing off your gear when finished with your session.

ShortSandsBeach is the perfect place for a family retreat.  I love to come here with the family and spend much of my time building sandcastles and playing king of the island on the little sand bars that mottle the beach at low tide. 

ShortSandsBeach near dusk.

The experience starts with picking out a campsite, setting up camp and getting a nice warm fire started.  Morning starts before sunrise with a big breakfast, some stovetop espresso and a short jaunt to the shore for an all out assault on the waves.    Since the waves are generally best at higher tides, the periods when the ocean is ebbing can be spent eating and relaxing on the beach or heading back to the campsite for a short siesta.

 

There are many options for great hikes around ShortSandsBeach as well.  You can take a stroll along the Oregon Coast Trail (OCT), 13 miles of which is contained within OswaldWestState Park.  The community of ArchCape sits at the North end of this 13-mile stretch, with Manzanita sitting on the South end.  Other options are a 2.5  mile stroll out to CapeFalcon for sweeping view of the sea and Smuggler’s Cove or a short but steep 3.8 mile climb up NeahkanieMountain (elev. 1700 feet)  that will give you an inspiring look down on the ocean, NehalemBay, and miles of spectacular coastline.

 

Some good points to remember are that the camping spots can be in relatively short supply, so be sure to have a contingency plan in place just in case.  Also, you will have much better luck finding a spot if you are able to plan your trip midweek and not on a weekend or even worse, during a holiday. 

 

Indian Beach

 

IndianBeach as seen from the car park.

Another great spot for some surfing action is IndianBeach, located inside EcolaState Park, directly north of the city of Cannon Beach.  The beach is at the far North end of a beautiful tree lined road.   You will be rewarded at the finish by an incredible view of the rugged coastline.  This is a day use only beach, so it is a great option for a drive-up surf session.  I like to enjoy IndianBeach via the stealth mission i.e., busting out of work early on a Friday afternoon, hook up with some buddies or the family and grab a room in CannonBeach for the night.  First thing in the morning, we will grab a quick bite and some much needed coffee around sunrise and then drive straight to the beach.

 

The walk is only a few hundred feet down a relatively steep path.  IndianBeach is similar to Short Sands beach in that it is also a horseshoe shaped cove that is relatively protected from the prevailing NW wind.  On a calm, clean day, when you can easily paddle out beyond the first break, it is possible to spend hours on end in the water.  You can always grab a needed break by paddling out just beyond the breaks and floating in the sea while enjoying the unique perspective of the Oregon coastline.  If I am having my way with the waves, I can last a few hours in the water, if the waves are having their way with me, I might be back onshore in little more than an hour.

 

Playin’ by the sea

Kids at Play.

IndianBeach is also supplied with a nice, lazy freshwater creek that is perfect for rinsing off gear and even for kids to play.  Kids could spend hours fighting off imaginary pirates armed with sticks for swords aboard a driftwood ship or just wading through the clear water.  This is also an ideal spot for dog lovers, thus it is probably best that you don’t mind being sniffed, licked and probed over by every range of canine companion while relaxing on the beach.

 

The surf breaks at IndianBeach are popular with kayakers as well as surfers, and there are plenty of beginners inside the outer break to go along with the more seasoned surfers, but on most days, there may still be room in the lineup for another brave soul.  The winter months are probably best left to the expert surfers as the larger and more unpredictable waves tend to find the shore quite frequently and often unexpectedly.  I would suggest picking a calm day with small clean waves for your first few times out.  If you aren't sure about the conditions, check with the local surf shops, they will generally be happy to give you the update.

 

What to Expect when you hit the water for the first time:

When you paddle out on your newly acquired board for the first time, you are almost certain to have many new experiences such as; getting sent through a saltwater wash cycle, getting skull-dragged along the sand, and getting ejected headlong into the ocean.  Don’t worry about it though, it is half the fun and no matter how skilled you become, the wash cycle only gets longer, the skull-dragging only gets more intense, and the aerial time only gets more impressive.  The beauty about CannonBeach is that it boasts a nice soft sandy floor with wide stretches of rideable waves of all sizes, so compared to many surfing spots, which are filled with rocks and coral bottoms, CannonBeach is a fun place to learn the hard way.

 

In the beginning, you will have the best luck catching waves that have already broken but that still have plenty of energy left in them.  These will appear as large, rolling, frothy white masses moving quickly toward you.  You will want to position yourself in the center of your board, with your board facing toward the shore, give a couple powerful strokes to match some speed then let the wave take you.  If  you feel a spray of water the front of your board gets sucked into the ocean and ejects you headlong into the water, you were probably too far forward on the board.  If the wave seems to roll right under you, paying you little mind, you are probably too far back on the board, or need to paddle a bit harder.  If you feel a rush of speed and see the water zooming past the nose of the board, then you have just caught your first wave.

 

So now that you have a wave, what do you do with it?  First, it might be a good idea to stand up and enjoy the beautiful scenery.  To do this, place your hands on the rails (side edges) of the board, place your feet in the center of your board with knees quite bent, then and only then let go with both hands and strike a balanced pose.  What you do from there is up to you, why not be bold and choose your own style of riding?

 

Where to gear-up and fuel-up:

With all the surfing that you are sure to be doing, you are sure to find yourself in need of some fueling up.  A great place to fill up your tummy, is a great locally pizzeria, Pizza a Fetta, they sell it by the pie or by the slice…one taste and you’ll understand why the line was out the door.  For that early morning cup of Java or a late night cup of tea, Bella Espresso brews it up just right and has a great ambience as well.  If all the salt water you’ve been swallowing from your surf sessions has left you with a desire for fresh seafood, I recommend the Ecola Seafood Restaurant & Market… It is more of a market than a restaurant, but you can find anything from great fresh seafood to a piping hot bread bowl of chowder that is guaranteed to thaw your extremities after a refreshing day of surfing the Northwest.

 

If you are looking for surfing gear, you have a couple great options in CannonBeach as well.  I shop at Cannon Beach Surf Shop, it is locally owned and managed and ran by experienced, helpful staff.  I have heard only good things about Cleanline Surf and Sport as well.

 

All these merchants are located within feet of Hemlock Street and are centrally located in downtown CannonBeach.  They are all within walking distance, and this is a great advantage due to the shortage of parking spaces in the downtown area.

 

In Conclusion:

 

CannonBeach has so much to offer from great food and shopping to beautiful scenery.  Surfing is yet another great reason to load up the car and head to the beach.  Besides, what better way is there to prove that Oregon's great beaches are good for much more than just decorating a postcard? 

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What to bring to the beach:

Ø      Surfboard with a leash. ( 9-12 foot soft boards are best for learning)

Ø      Wetsuit (at least 3mm full wetsuit)

Ø      Boots

Ø      Hoodie (optional)

Ø      Gloves (optional)

Ø      A partner who can swim well (Very important)