The Andes

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By sgjerome



 

The Andes stretch over 7,000km and cross borders with seven countries (Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, Columbia, Ecuador, Peru and Venezuela). Peaking at the summit of Aconcagua (6,962m), on the Argentine side of the border with Chile, the long, thin Andes chain is home to the world's highest peaks outside of Aisa

Rising in a deceptively narrow north-south belt, what the Andes give up in breadth, they make up for in height, averaging, 4,000m+ across hundreds of major peaks, which geographically extend all the way to Venezuela's Caribbean coast.

Bolivia, Ecuador and Peru are considering the most quintessentially "Andean" nations, owing to a mix of their terrain and indigenous, historically "Andean peoples". Dating back hundreds, if not thousands of years, the pre-Columbian peoples of the Andes, such as the Quechua, Aymara and Otavaleno, are probably the single most emblematic aspect of the Andes as a destination. From panpipes and liamas, to bright shawls and bowler hats, the represent an ancient yet thriving link to the region's past. While "indigenous" peoples fall within the boundaries of every Andean nation from Argentina to Venezuela, its along the narrow north-south indigenous axis from Ecuador, through Peru and into Bolivia, where they've maintained a viable enough foothold to still be leaving an indelible mark on the destinations.

Peru More than Mountains

Squeezed between South America's roaring Pacific coast and the unforgiving Amazon, more so than any other country on the continent, Peru's where all of nature's forces collide in the form of raging oceans, parched deserts, soaring peaks and lush jungles. South America's a continent of superlatives - the longest mountain chain, the driest desert, the biggest jungle, the mightiest river, the most biodiversity - and while its not the record holder of any one title, Peru finishes a close second on virtually every point.

Lima

Today, the capital of modern Peru is a far cry from its humble beginnings as a dusty Spanish colonial outpost. Considered a hardship posting, due to its and conditions and bleak winters, Lima eventually blossomed into one of the world's largest cities. Roughly a third of Peru's nearly 30 million people live around the capital. With such a large population, Lima's an odd blend of cosmopolitan, colonial-era Old World and plain chaos with office towers backing up to sprawling slums.

Lima alone has 30 distinct districts, and those of interest include the wealthy Miraflores (along the city's dramatic Pacific cliff face), El Cercado de Lima, or Central Lima (the hub for most of the city's colonial-era institutions) and Plaza Mayor at its heart (the traditional seat of Lima's Spanish aristocrats in colonial days). Dating back centuries, but rebuilt in the early 1900s, the presidential palace, Palacio de Gobierno, and archbishop's residence are 2 of the city's best-preserved landmarks. Lima has dozens of huacas (archaeological sites) scattered around the city, lying in areas historically settled by pre-Incan peoples.

Of all the Andean nations, Peru's demographics are more akin to Brazil's famous mix, than the more strictly European-Indigenous populations of neighbouring Bol t or Ecuador. The capital's home to large Asian empire communities, especially Chinese and Japanese.

Cusco

Situated at 3,300m, Peru's second city Cusco is the nation's cultural and logistical centre for anywhere east of Lima, be it Ma Pie take Titicaca or Parque Nacional Manu. With the rainy season ending by March, the April-May period is the best as crowds and prices are at their ebb, before the massive summer spike from June-August as hordes of tourists descend on Cusco on mass. Thanks primarily to Machu Pichu, Cusco's tourism infrastructure is fairly developed as Peru's busiest travel destination, relative to everywhere outside of Lima. Be prepared for relatively high costs both in Cusco, and especially at Machu Pichu itself.

The 2 most striking features of modern Cusco both ring of an ancient past - namely intricately fitted Incan stone build its predominate indigenous, 200,000 strong Quechua speaking population. While it's distinctive architecture defines its pas Cusco's Quechuan people that define present. It is the strongest remaining link to the pre-Incan past that unites 10 million Quechuan speakers throughout the Andes from Argentina to Ecuador, and the winder - to Andes pre-Incan civilisations.

Day Trip from Cusco

While Machu Pichu remains the firm favourite, it's often crowded. Several good sites are within walking distance of Cusco's main thoroughfare, Plaza de Armas. Some of Cusco's best, alternative sites include Sacsayhuaman, Salapunco and Puca Pucara. Conveniently, these form a neat line leading out of Cusco, beginning with Sacsayhuaman, 20 minutes on foot, and ending with the final site (Puca), visible from the top of Salapunco. Admission to most of the sites is free, or covered under the Cusco Visitor's Ticket (US$21), with opening hours from sunrise to sunset. Recessed behind a small village, Salapunco especially is usually deserted, and makes an ideal location for photo-ops, with its extensive vistas. The largest of 'Cusco's suburban site, Sacsayhuaman is an abandoned fortress complex, believed to have been the biggest in the empire, with its walls, zig-zagging corridors and towers still standing.

The Inca Trail

Characteristic of the entire Andean range, Peru's peaks run in dozens of parallel sub-ranges or cordilleras. In the case of Peru, these give easy access to many otherwise remote summits and valleys, that apart from local campesinos (subsistence farmers), see virtually no human interference. Most famous of these is undoubtedly the Inca Trail to Machu Pichu.

The country's most famous hiking route, the modern Inca Trail, is in fact a misnomer. The present trail winds its way up to the Inca Emperors' winter retreat outside of Cusco, namely Machu Pichu. Today's tourist-centric Inca Trail is just a fraction of an original network of 40,000km of paved foot paths that crisscrossed the Andes. They were once run by chasquis (long-distance messengers), who covered over 250kms per day.

There are 2 ways to tackle Machu Pichu; either by foot or by trains. By foot, the modern Inca Trail generally takes trekkers 80km+ over 3-5 days, via either of the 2 routes starting in Cusco at the Urubamba River from an initial altitude of 2,800m. Much of the modern trail is upgraded since the late 90s, repairing centuries of damage from floods, landslides and quakes.


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