Where, oh where, are the traditional Parisian bistros of yesteryear?

Everyone seems to be bemoaning the fact that the old traditional Parisian bistros have all but disappeared.

Well, I can assure you that they're still there - they're just that bit harder to find.

Here, as a companion to my Cafés of Paris: A Personal Guide is my individual take on the bistros of Paris: some old, some new; some traditional, some trendy; some expensive, some cheap as chips.....

I have concentrated on the central, more touristy, areas of the city.

Venture further out towards the suburbs, and you'll find even more ....

.........................................................................................................................

La Tour de Montlhéry (Chez Denise), 5 rue des Prouvaires, 1^st.

Tel: 01.42.36.21.82. Metro: Chatelet Les Halles

Well, here's a good place to start: open practically 24/7, this is an enormously popular bistro, and is just as likely to be filled with locals as with in-the-know tourists.

The food could best be described as "hearty" - think huge ribs of beef, game, tripe, brains, andouillettes, pot au feu, huge platters of crispy frites etc. - all washed down with carafes of red wine straight from the cask.

No one stands on ceremony - probably because there is no ceremony. Great, friendly atmosphere. Book ahead if you're thinking of turning up before 2am. - and even then you may still be asked to share a table!

.......................................................................................................................

Aux Lyonnais, 32 rue St-Marc, 2^nd.

Tel: 01.42.96.65.04. Metro: Bourse

International uber-restaurateur Alain Ducasse certainly has a knack for breathing new life into old and rather tired Parisian bistros, and re-creating them for the 21^st century.

As with the world-famous Benoit (see below) he has certainly done a good job on this retro eatery, with its lovingly-preserved décor and classic French cuisine.

Here, as the name suggests, you will find classic dishes from the Lyon region of France: quenelles de brochet, veal Marengo, coq au vin, navarin of lamb, game in season, etc.

Many of the dishes are served in beautiful little copper frying-pans or individual cast-iron pots - a lovely touch.

Not exactly cheap - but good value, and a very pleasant experience.

........................................................................................................................

Benoit, 20 rue St-Martin, 4th

Tel: 01.42.72.25.76. Metro: Chatelet

This is one of the oldest, most authentic and most expensive bistros in Paris. Opened in 1912, it has recently become part of Alain Ducasse's world-wide culinary empire. It provides delicious, old-fashioned food in a perfectly-preserved, old-fashioned setting - but at decidedly new-fangled prices.

Some of the great classics of French bourgeois cuisine are available here: snails, foie gras, frogs' legs, cassoulet, poulet de Bresse, blanquette de veau, boeuf bourguignon, etc., etc.....

(It's making my mouth water just writing them down!)

I haven't actually been here for many years, but have been assured that the food, wine, service and atmosphere remain much the same.

With apéritifs, coffees and a half-decent bottle of wine I guess you are looking at least 150 euros per head for dinner these days, maybe even more. Is it worth it? For a special occasion or once-in-a-blue-moon splurge, I'd say definitely yes.

Oh, and there's a (relatively) cheap prix-fixe menu (currently €38) available at lunchtime.

........................................................................................................................

Le Grizzli, 7 rue St-Martin, 4th

Tel: 01.48.87.77.56. Metro: Chatelet or Hotel de Ville

Diagonally opposite Benoit (see above), but much more affordable and very convenient for the Pompidou Center, this little café/bistro serves good, reasonably priced food in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere.

It seems equally popular with locals and tourists, gays and straights, gourmets and gourmands ...

Grab a table on the terrace and a carafe of wine and watch the world go by.

.........................................................................................................................

Ma Bourgogne, 19 place des Vosges, 4^th

Tel: 01.42.78.44.64. Metro: Bastille or St-Paul

If you're in Paris, don't miss the sublime Place des Vosges, one of the masterpieces of French city architecture. Under the elegant arcades you will find that epitome of French haute cuisine L'Ambroisie, where Jacques Chirac wined and dined the Clintons several years ago.

But that's just a bit (?) beyond our price range. Further along the colonnades you'll find this open, friendly place serving traditional dishes to an appreciative (if mostly touristy) clientele.

The simple dishes are the best: steak tartare, steak frites, etc. Other, more complicated, dishes can sometimes disappoint....

But, oh the setting!

.........................................................................................................................

Mon Vieil Ami, 69 rue St-Louis-en-l'Ile, 4^th

Tel: 01.40.46.01.35. Metro: St-Paul or Pont Marie

Now here's a real gem: a beautifully-sited little place serving truly delicious cuisine in a pleasant, contemporary atmosphere - and at prices that won't make your eyes water!

It's owned by 3-star Strasbourg chef Antoine Westermann, and while he won't be doing the actual cooking, his influence and meticulous attention to detail are evident just about everywhere.

Of particular interest is the status given to vegetables - sometimes to the extent that the meat or fish component of a dish is relegated almost to the role of an accompaniment.

The place is becoming increasingly popular, with locals and visitors alike, so don't even think of turning up without booking in advance.

......................................................................................................................

Le Vieux Bistro, 14 rue du Cloitre-Notre-Dame, 4th

Tel: 01.43.54.18.95. Metro: Cité or St Michel

Right in the shadow of Notre-Dame, this old bistro could be one hell of a tourist trap. Surprisingly, it isn't: it's a genuine Parisian bistro serving rich, copious, authentic, well-prepared food in comfortable (if perhaps a little cramped) surroundings.

Boeuf Bourguignon is a speciality, as are the pommes dauphinoise, and there's lots of game in season.Fantastic atmosphere, good range of daily specials - and, you never know, you might actually see one or two real, live French people eating there.

..........................................................................................................................

L'Ecurie, 2 rue Laplace, 5^th

Tel: 01.46.33.68.49. Metro: Maubert Mutualité

A former stable (hence the name), this place is very popular with students and lecturers from the nearby university.

Bargain, set-price menus and reasonably-priced wines ensure a constant stream of customers. Basic, homely food with few surprises - but great value.

Free Sangria on arrival - and maybe (if the proprietor likes the cut of your gib!) even a free Calvados to round the evening off!

........................................................................................................................

La Rotisserie du Beaujolais, 19 quai de la Tourelle, 5th

Tel: 01.43.54.17.47. Metro: Jussieu

This is the smaller (and decidedly cheaper) sibling to the sumptuous Tour d'Argent on the opposite corner. As the name implies, it specialises in dishes cooked on the rotisserie, and mostly from the Beaujolias/ Burgundy region: snails, plump chicken, rabbit, pigeon, duck, etc.

Food is good and copious, the Beaujolais flows freely and the atmosphere is tremendous.

Lots of locals eat there, too - always a good sign. Not exactly cheap, but the final bill won't break the bank.

.......................................................................................................................

L'AOC, 14 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard, 5th

Tel: 01.43.54.22.52. Metro: Jussieu or Cardinal Lemoine

AOC stands for Appellation d'Origine Controlée - the official French government certificate of authenticity - and everything served in this warm, welcoming place satisfies that stringent criteria. As soon as you step through the front door and see the great rotisserie with its huge, succulent joints of pork and lamb turning slowly on the spit, you just know you're in for a good time.

The food is simple and delicious - no fancy sauces, no complicated cooking techniques - and the wines well-chosen and affordable.

Do give it a try - especially if you're a confirmed carnivore!

.......................................................................................................................

Les Bouquinistes, 53 quai des Grands Augustins, 6^th

Tel: 01.43.25.45.91. Metro: St Michel

A smart, contemporary bistro under the aegis of 3-star chef Guy Savoy (who has the dubious distinction of helping to train Gordon Ramsay).

It has a lovely position on the banks of the Seine (it takes its name from the famous second-hand booksellers who ply their trade there) and attracts a young, trendy, mostly Anglophone crowd.

The food is modern, inventive and colourful - just like the décor and the staff.

Puddings are nice. I don't usually do puddings (preferring cheese) but the cappuccino de mangue, glace coco et émulsion banane was one of the best I've ever had.

I can still taste it!

........................................................................................................................

Ze Kitchen Galerie, 4 rue des Grands Augustins, 6^th

Tel: 01.44.32.00.32. Metro: St Michel

Just next door to Les Bouquinistes (see above), and under the same general ownership, this modern, stylish but rather ridiculously named place is that rare thing in Paris: a fusion restaurant.

To be honest, I wasn't going to include it at first, because the food isn't French at all - but, hey, why be parochial?

Lots of fish and seafood; lots of Thai, Vietnamese and Japanese flavors; lots of unusual combinations and taste sensations.

And you know what? It's really rather good!

......................................................................................................................

Le Petit St-Benoit, 4 rue St-Benoit, 6^th

Tel: 01.42.60.27.92. Metro: St-Germain-des-Prés

Just up the road from the trendy, existentialist Café de Flore is this iconic throwback to an earlier age of Parisian gastronomy: homely cooking in an environment that's hardly changed for almost a century, with its nicotine-stained walls, peeling paint, rickety tables with red gingham tablecloths, crotchety waitresses ...

It's almost a cliché, but isn't - it's a genuine Left Bank bistro serving local students, profs, journalists and the occasional bemused tourist.

To be honest, some of the food can be pretty mediocre at times - but it's cheap and plentiful and provides an experience that may not be here for much longer.

So do try it. But be warned: no bookings, no credit cards - and be sure to go to the toilet beforehand rather than risk the horrors of the old "Turkish" loo!

........................................................................................................................

Allard, 41 rue St-André-des-Arts, 6^th

Tel: 01.43.26.48.23. Metro: St Michel or Odéon

Allard is something of a Left Bank institution: an authentic, perfectly-preserved, pre-war bistro serving classic French bourgeois food: duck with olives, roast shoulder of lamb with flageolet beans, roast Bresse chicken, etc.

Not cheap by any means - but the perfect incarnation of what everyone imagines a real Parisian bistro to be, but rarely is.

Service can be a bit brusque and surly (but, hey, that's Paris!), and not all dishes delight all of the time - but for a genuine, Parisian, Left Bank experience, it's hard to beat.

.........................................................................................................................

Le Polidor, 41 rue Monsieur-le-Prince, 6^th

Tel: 01.43.26.95.34. Metro: Odéon

Another Left Bank bistro which, like Le Petit St-Benoit (see above) has hardly changed for decades. Gloriously tatty décor, off-hand service, and hit-and-miss food - but the customers tend to be chatty and cheerful and by late in the evening the place really buzzes.

Not as cheap as it used to be, but not too bad, given the location in trendy St-Germain.

........................................................................................................................

Le Parc aux Cerfs, 50 rue Vavin, 6^th

Tel: 01.43.54.87.83. Metro: Vavin

A smart, laid-back sort of place, just off the bustling Boulevard Montparnasse. Modern, inventive menu, with a few Mediterranean touches, good choice of wines and a lively, mostly young, mostly French clientele.

The little interior courtyard is a delight - but you'll have to be very quick (or very lucky) to grab it!

.......................................................................................................................

Au Bon Accueil, 14 rue Monttessuy, 7^th

Tel: 01.47.05.46.11. Metro: Alma Marceau or Ecole Militaire

With the Eiffel Tower looming at the end of the street, it's difficult to think of a more "Parisian" location. But this is no tourist cliché: it's a genuine neighbourhood restaurant serving well-cooked, well-presented French classics: veal kidneys, roast veal, braised beef cheeks, lovely ripe cheeses, imaginative desserts.

Good wine; friendly and professional service.

No, not cheap, but certainly excellent value.

........................................................................................................................

Chartier, 7 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, 9^th

Tel: 01.47.70.86.29. Metro: Grands Boulevards

Not really a bistro, to be honest - more like a full-time workers' canteen or soup kitchen (which it once was) - this fascinating place attracts hordes of people every day of the year.

Starters cost from 2 euros; mains start at about 8.50 euros. House wine is 5.30 euros a bottle. The food isn't great - in fact, it is sometimes downright mediocre! - but this national monument is well worth a visit just for the experience and the incredible, perfectly-preserved 19-century décor.

The simple dishes are best: chitterling sausages, steak tartare, steak and chips, choucroute, roast pork, etc. (Just between you and me, it's probably best to avoid dishes that involve too much actual cooking!)

There are other downsides, too: they don't take bookings, they don't accept credit cards, you have to sit where you're told and you are expected to get up and leave when you've finished your meal.

So why on earth am I recommending it? A good question. The answer is: the history, the décor, the atmosphere - and the prices!

Everyone should try Chartier at least once in a lifetime. For some people once is probably just about enough. But I love it!

.......................................................................................................................

Le Troquet, 21 rue Francois-Bonvin, 15^th

Tel: 01.45.66.89.00. Metro: Sevres-Lecourbe

A very popular little place in the quiet, residential, rather dull 15^th.

Chef/proprietor Christian Etchebest (who once worked at the de-luxe Hotel Crillon) is well-respected locally. He provides many deft and original Basque touches to his frequently-changing menu, with generous set-price options at both lunch and dinner.

The food is good, modern, imaginative, slightly unusual (the Basque influence again) - and wins lots of converts.

Well worth a detour.

.........................................................................................................................

Au Virage Lepic, 61 rue Lepic, 18^th

Tel: 01.42.52.46.79. Metro: Abbesses

Un p'tit resto sympa, as the French would say: a friendly, welcoming little bistro on an old cobbled street in old Montmartre.

It looks as if it hasn't changed much since the days of Toulouse-Lautrec and Aristide Bruant: old music-hall posters, red check tablecloths, simple, delicious, mostly meaty food - and low, low prices.

Enchanting and addictive, but if you don't book ahead you may be disappointed - it's very popular!

........................................................................................................................

So there you are: my personal selection of bistros to enliven your next trip to Paris.

One or two of the places listed don't take bookings - you just have to turn up and take your chance! Where bookings are taken, it's always a good idea to phone ahead and make a reservation. With most of the places, try to ring the day before, if you can, just to make sure.

The exceptions are probably Benoit and Mon Vieil Ami: you may have to reserve a few days in advance. But, then again, you never know - phoning on the day is always worth a try!

Au revoir - et bon appétit!