The ultimate retreat away from the riviera crowds history leaves its mark in many ways --- legend, song, place names, documents and ruins.
One of the most elegant and romantic places to stay along the riviera is built on one such ruin. this was a castle of the knights templar, which they built after returning from the crusades. Today it is a luxurious hideaway frequented by the world's rich and famous.

The soft, golden light near Vence, a small Provencale town situated between the Alpes Maritimes and the French Riviera, has a magic that gives the area a special quality. At sunset the sky turns a misty peach colour and the landscape assumes a rich pinkish-honey glow with just a hint of blue. As dusk falls the blue gets stronger, the colour subtly changing by the minute. The thousand-year-old olive trees with which the area abounds, turn from green to silvery grey, finally becoming stark black silhouettes against the evening sky.

This is a gentle, lovely but also very strong landscape. It seems only natural that the French Impressionists were drawn to its beauty. Renoir, Cezanne, Matisse and later Modigliani, Picasso and Chagall, were all influenced by the light, colour, landscape, architecture and history of this region.

Holidaymakers from Europe and further afield now crowd the famous beaches and watering-holes --- Cannes, St. Tropez, Antibes and Cap Ferrat. But many whose names are international bywords choose instead to stay at the elegant and exclusive hideaway of Chateau St-Martin, which nestles on a steep hillside twelve miles behind the beaches of Nice and Cagnes-sur-Mer.

The area is steeped in history as in Roman times Vence was already an important town. In 350 AD St. Martin, the Bishop of Tours and evangelist of the Gauls came to this estate which was named after him. In 1115 the Count of Provence handed the estate over to the Knights Templar who had then returned from the Crusades, on the condition that they "protect the region and till the land". The olive trees which today still dot the 32 acre park of St Martin, were then already over one hundred years old.

The Knights settled and prospered, building a Commandery on the site of the Roman stronghold. The ruined drawbridge and the other Crusader relics are still shrouded in mystery and romance to this day. A local legend has it that the Knights Templar worshipped a golden goat. In 1307 Philip the Fair (a misnomer if ever there was one) heard of this and, lusting after the Templar treasure, abolished the Order and accused its leaders of witchcraft, burning them at the stake. In 1936 when the estate changed hands, a clause still remained in the Bill of Sale that "in the event of the treasure being found it shall be shared among the assignees and the last owner".

The subsequent Chateau building was completed in 1936 and has since undergone a continuous program of additions and improvements. Entrance to the forecourt is through an automatically-opening wrought-iron gate with the vine-covered ruins of the Templar Gate on the left. Lush green vines also drape over the glass entrance portico and as one could be forgiven for thinking that the Chateau was a multi-millionaire's home rather than an hotel.

Hotel Director Mlle Brunet has dedicated herself to maintaining the superb standard of the Chateau for many, many years. She can often be found greeting guests, inspecting the dining room or kitchen, creating the beautiful flower arrangements which grace each room, showing visitors over the 32 acres of lovely grounds or personally supervising the selection of the menus. She is one of the few female hotel directors in France and undoubtedly one of the best. Her early training at the prestigious Plaza Athenee Hotel in Paris is clearly reflected in the extraordinarily high standard of every facet of the Chateau's operation.

The list of famous guests of the Chateau spans the spectrum of politics, industry and the arts. Famous heads of state who have enjoyed staying here included Chancellor Konrad Adenauer and Helmut Schmidt of Germany, and Giscard d'Estaing of France, King Leopold of Belgium, and Prince Sianhouk of Cambodia. Russian aeroplane design Tupolev has also stayed here, as have author John Forsythe, ballerina Ludmilla Cherina and painters Man Ray and Marc Chagall.

The hotel is understandably reluctant to disclose its guest list. But public figures like Raquel Welch, Jacques Tati, Gene Wilder, Alan Alda, Brigitte Bardot, Anthony Quinn and Rod Steiger have all stayed here at some time. The French nobility like Isabel d'Orleans, the sister of the Duke of Orleans, are also regulars as are many greats from the music field. Conductor Stokowski has enjoyed a holiday here and on the other side of the musical spectrum, the Rolling Stones were once asked to leave the dining room for not wearing jackets. They, and the whole of the Pink Floyd group, now dine here wearing suits.

The view from the hotel to the valley below encompasses the red terracotta roofs of the new luxury villas with their sparkling swimming pools, and stretches right across to the coast of the Riviera some twelve miles in the distance and 1500 feet below the level of St-Martin. There can be few more memorable ways of having breakfast than to soak in this superb view from the balcony of one's room while enjoying buttery croissants and fragrant coffee.

A recent and extensive refurbishment and additions have created a wing of junior suites as alternative accommodation to the existing rooms in the main building. There are also 12 villas, called bastides, which are set in the olive groves on the hill behind, all completely self-contained and beautifully furnished. The grounds are also planted with cypress trees, pines, flowers, sweet-smelling flowering orange trees, roses and vines. A state-of-the-art overflow swimming pool has replaced the original heart-shaped pool built at the recommendation of the late President Truman of the USA. There are also two clay tennis courts for guests' use.

The dining room, recently extended, elegantly furnished and with a view overlooking the ancient fortified town of Vence, is one of the best and most renowned in the South of France. An extensive terrace dining area enables guests to enjoy the balmy Provencal breezes while at lunch or dinner. And dining at the Chateau St-Martin is an experience indeed. We enjoyed a Salade de la Mer (warm, grilled seafood over a salad of tiny leaves and fresh asparagus tips) and Grilled Scampi with broad beans enlivened by a tangy sauce. Our dessert was a masterpiece. Tiny just-picked, fragrant wood strawberries on a creamy base were covered by a curve of crisp Feuillette. The combination of strawberry, cream and crisp textures was outstanding.

The hotel acts as a perfectly positioned base from which to explore this part of the Riviera. The unique 'villages perche' of the area offer rewarding sightseeing. These villages were built on the tops of the jagged hills as lookouts, both to the coast and to the hinterland. History is all around as you explore such places as Pellion, Tourettes-Sur-Loup, Eze and of course the famous St Paul de Vence. This latter has become besieged by tourists but even with the crowds jostling you on the Rue Grande it is certainly worth a visit.

A major draw for the art lover here is the Maeght Foundation which is one of the world's finest modern art museums. Chagall, Matisse, Miro, Braque, Giacometti and Calder are well represented here and there is often a temporary exhibition in the summer. Modern sculpture is displayed to great advantage (and is very much at home here) on the brilliant green grass of the forecourt.

The walled, medieval village of Vence though small, played a significant role in European history. It was the seat of the bishops of Vence from the 3rd century AD. Later in the 13th century Eleanor, the daughter of the Lord of this town, married Henry III and became Queen of England. Another daughter became the Empress of Austria, the third married Anjou and became Queen of the two Sicilies.

The little town itself has a fascinating street market which can yield a treasure trove for antique collectors. Like so many of the small walled and fortified towns which have existed since Roman times, Vence has been lovingly restored and is now a base for artists. galleries, boutiques and restaurants.

For quite a different ambience, the steep apartment-crowded hillsides of Monaco are within an easy hour's drive along the auto-route (or a bit longer along the coastal road.) A visit to the aquarium here, known as the Musee Oceanographique is well worthwhile. This is where Jacques Cousteau set up his research centre. For those with a gambling instinct, a visit to the Casino is a must and gentlemen will need a jacket and tie to be admitted. Don't forget to bring your passport!! Boating enthusiasts have a vast array of yachts and cabin cruisers to gasp at in the marina, and some are available, with or without crews, for charter.

Twenty minutes away from St-Martin are the fabulous, if crowded, beaches of Nice. The huge pebbles that form the so-called beaches of Nice do not seem to deter sunseekers determined to acquire a tan. Deck chairs and windbreaks are for hire from the operators of the private sections of the beach, who also patrol up and down offering somewhat overpriced cold drinks.

Of course you must stroll along the Promenade des Anglais which stretches right around the huge arc of the bay of Nice. This is a favourite place for early-morning runners, joggers, dog walkers and those just out for a breath-of-fresh-air jaunt. Beaulieu-sur-Mer, half an hour further east along the coast has a small and exclusive marina where the yachts of the rich-and-famous can often be seen. The small museum in the Villa Kerylos, displays numerous original Greek artefacts and if museums do not appeal, you can always visit the casino housed in a beautiful Belle Epoque building, if it is open whilst you are there.

St-Martin is ideal for a stay-away-from-it-all break or a chance to explore the fascinating Cote d' Azur. As many discerning travellers have already discovered, your holiday will be everything you could wish for if you base yourself at this remarkable Riviera retreat. Your only problem will be to fit in all the wonderful attractions, both historical and cultural that are at the heart of the area.