Used Rototiller: A Buyers Guide

Buying a used rototiller shouldn't be complicated or intimidating.  In fact, if you have a basic understanding of mechanics you are already a couple of steps ahead of the game.  The biggest problem you might run into is if you simply aren't familiar with rototillers themselves.

Over the last few years I've had the opportunity to use a number of older, used models and have seen some things I like - and some things that made using them almost unbearable.  If I had to go out today and buy a used rototiller here are 5 key points I'd keep in mind.

(1) A Powerful and Reliable Engine

A lot of folks may shy away from a used rototiller just because of it's age. But, I've found that sometimes the older models are absolute workhorses and a lot of that has to do with the engines on them.

I'm personally a fan of Briggs and Strattons as I've always had good luck with them. I've also heard rave reviews about any sort of Honda engine as they are virtually bullet proof.

Also, take a look at the horsepower. Remember, a rototiller is designed to break up ground and do it as easily as possible. One of the rototillers I tried would often get bogged down and the tines would completely quit turning. It's not because I got the tines too deep it was simply because the engine didn't have enough power to keep the tines turning through the dirt.

How much power is enough? It varies, but I would opt for a five or six horsepower engine if I had to choose. Anything less and you'll likely be fighting it too much. Of course, you have to temper that with your own strength as handling a rototiller, especially an older used model can be a bit much for some folks at times.

(2) Weight of the Machine

The weight of the rototiller itself will have a lot to do with how well it tears up the ground. I can remember an older rototiller that my Dad had many years ago that was an absolute tank. Or, at least it felt that heavy at times. But boy could it ever till the ground.

Compare that to the lighter model I opted for this weekend where I was barely going in the ground unless it was very moist and it was bouncing all over the place. And, when it bounces, it transfers that into your arms and shoulders causing you a to do a lot more work than what you should ideally be doing.

Of course, remember that on occasion you may have to load the rototiller in the back of a truck to haul it in for a tune up or if someone needs to borrow it from you. It can get pretty unwieldy doing that.

(3) Electric Start or Pull Cord?

Just like a lawn mower or any other small engine it takes your own horsepower to get the machine started in the first place. Most used rototillers will have a pull cord that attaches to the machine to turn the crank and get it started. The only problem with this set up is that these cords can get frail and weak over time. Which is just what happened with the used model I had. As soon as I pulled the cord busted. Thankfully, with that crank, I did get it started and was able to get the job done. But it's still something to think about.

(4) How Handy Are You?

The situation I just described isn't an uncommon one. Used machines of every type are, as the name implies, used. Some harder than others. So, it begs to reason that they may break down more often. Now, a tune up or anoccasional repair is one thing. But sometimes you may purchase a lemon or just a finicky machine. If so, do you have the skills to bring it back to life? It doesn't mean you have to be ashade tree mechanic. But you do have to know how to turn a wrench and understand the basics of small engines and mechanics - or have a friend or relative who is willing to help you.

If not you'll end up taking it to a small engine mechanic or repair shop and, at least at my local rates, those types of small, nagging repairs add up quick.

For example, the pull cord I revamped, retied and got reinstalled. It took me two hours. But, it would have taken me an hour to get it loaded and haul it to the repair shop. Then, $30 to $60 to get it fixed and then the days waiting for the mechanic to get to it.

This is an important point and one you need to be brutally honest with yourself about. If mechanics is something that scares you off in the least then save your money for a new model and one that will cause you less headaches.

(5) Sturdiness

Like anything, some rototillers are more sturdy than others. One of the models I used recently had a set of handlebars that were extremely flimsy. Anytime I went to turn the machine around the handlebars flexed. To me, based on my experience from using other rototillers, they flexed way too much. In fact, I was afraid at one point that I was going to break them.

I would have much rather opted for a heavier, sturdier set of handlebars.

In Conclusion

Buying a used rototiller is best for someone on a budget who has a modicum of mechanics skills and the tools to get the job done. Expect to pay around 1/3 to 1/2 of the price of a brand new model in your area.

Also, if you find a really good deal make sure to take it to a mechanic, or again, if you know enough yourself look it over.

Does it looks like it leaks a lot of oil? Will is start fairly easily? Does it look like it's been left outside a lot? Are the tines beat up? Do they need to be sharpened?

Also, think about the kind of work you'll be doing with the tiller. If you're just going to be tearing up a 1/4 inch of ground in between your raised beds buying an old two-hundred pound model is overkill.

In the end, let common sense and your budget be your guide.