Vence – The French Riviera

Vence is a picturesque medieval town situated a few miles inland from the coast in the foothills of the Alps. There are two towns here: the old town is a medieval walled city surrounded by a larger, more modern French town. The old town has not really changed since ancient times, the surrounding wall still stands, keeping out the barbarian hordes, in this case, cars, thank goodness. It is possible to drive through the town, but only a brave or foolish man would try getting into the old town driving a car. The best place to park is an underground car park beneath the Place du Grand Jardin, outside the walls. It is only a short walk into the town.

There is a fruit and vegetable market every day in the big square until about noon, when everyone retires to a café for lunch. Inside the old town, the air is a little cooler than the coast, thanks partly to the altitude, but more because the narrow alleyways offer good shade.

There are 5 medieval gateways to the town:

Portail Levis

Porte du Peyra

Tour-Porte du Signadour or Portail Saint-Paul

Porte du Faubourg ou Pontis;

Porte d'Orient, or Porte du Siege or Porte de Cagnes or Porte de la Brèche

The first 4 were built during medieval times, the last was constructed in the 18th Century so that the bishop of the time, Monseigneur Pisani de la Gaude, could enter his Episcopal palace without having to walk. Talk about lazy.

Vence is well-renowned for it’s collection of artists, sculptors and writers, which is reflected in the vast range of art for sale amongst the hundreds of cafés inside the walls as well as around the main square. English literature buffs may be interested to know that English novelist D.H. Lawrence died and was buried here in the 1930’s. Due to a bizarre series of circumstances, his remains were later exhumed, cremated and taken to a ranch in New Mexico.

Nostrodamus and Henri Matisse also lived here and there is a fine example of Matisse’s work in the Chapelle Matisse, which he designed and decorated the in the late 1940’s. It’s just a few minutes walk from the center of town and definitely worth a visit.

This is a great people watching town, both inside and outside the walls. The Place Clemenceau is good inside, and the Place du Grand Jardin outside. Shopping is, as usual in a tourist town, expensive, but there are regular markets selling clothes, shoes and other goods, along with a daily food market along Le Rue de Marche. The narrow alleyways, ancient buildings, huge range of art shops and welcoming cafés make Vence one of my favorite towns in the Riviera.

For those English-speakers desperate for an inexpensive book, there is an English library here, The Broad Chauvin Library in rue St Luce. (English paperbacks normally sell for around $20 in the Riviera.) But be warned, they are only open Tuesday, Friday and Saturday mornings between 9 and 12.

Unlike most of the towns in the Riviera, Vence’s police force does an excellent job of keeping petty criminals out and you are not at great risk her. Nonetheless, it’s still a good idea not to leave any valuables in your car.

Vence has one of the best, most friendly tourist offices in the area. Many of the staff speak English, and they offer several different walking tours discussions and lectures all year round. Check their website for details.

There is a good bus service from Nice, but times vary, depending on the time of year, so check their website for up-to-date information.