Visiting Hue

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By jw east


Hue is a charming riverside city along central Vietnam’s coast. The laid back atmosphere and the long history of the place make it an interesting place to visit. The Citadel, which still bears the scars of heavy fighting, which took place there during the 1960s, is the centerpiece of the town. This is a main stopping off point for travelers making their way up or down Vietnam’s coastline. Over the years, a backpackers’ scene has developed in the city’s café’s and eateries.

Despite being largely destroyed by heavy fighting during the bloody Tet Offensive of 1968, Hue’s Citadel is a great place to visit. Some of the buildings have been refurbished or managed to escape damage. The Chinese-inspired architecture and the remaining statues and walls create an interesting look into the past. Some of the museum exhibits inside the complex are quite informative, giving visitors more than a cursory summary of historical events. Relics and exhibits on the clothing and culture of Vietnam’s imperial past are worth more than a glance. There are several entrances, the southern-most being the best, and nearest to the palace.

A trip on the Perfume River (the water is actually muddy-brown with no trace of its namesake) will lead to some of Hue’s imperial tombs. Tours with a group are cheaper ($5 max), though going it along is not very expensive. With boat, motorcycle ride to the more inland locations, and, perhaps, a meal, the cost should be $15-$20.

The tomb of Tu Duc and tomb of Khai Dinh are the most impressive of these compounds, the former overflowing with idyllic gardens, pavilions, and bridges. These are well worth an afternoon’s activity. However, Hue’s weather is famously unpredictable, so expect the worst. Hiring your own boat gives you the advantage being able to dodge the crowds and move at your own pace.

Hue’s riverfront is also home to some good cafes serving cheap backpacker fare and local specialties like the hearty Bun Bo Hue, a beef and noodle soup. The long-running DMZ Bar & Café is a great place for pool and socializing over beverages. Brown Eyes bar is another good place to relax after a day of sightseeing. Both these places get going late and offer plenty of opportunities to swap stories with other travelers.

A Dong Hotel has large rooms and is located near the river.

Hue is full of history, and, the ever-changing community of travelers creates a unique experience.

Garden inside Tu Duc's compound
Garden inside Tu Duc's compound

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