Kathmandu was once an inaccessible and exotic locale. Today, much of the exoticism remains, but the city has become a destination for trekkers, budget travelers, as well as those seeking a more upscale, but still sublime travel experience. This colorful city is more than a gateway to the famous Himalayas, it is the heart of Nepal’s culture and history. Aside from a nearly two thousand year history, Kathmandu, and the surrounding valley, are a holy place, though to have been visited by the Buddha himself in the 500s B.C. Today, the city’s old quarter is home to some of the most beautiful temples in South Asia, many dating back four to five hundred years. The city itself was founded in the 8th century.

Kathmandu is small enough to traverse by foot, although motorcycle taxis are sometimes convenient. Buses are decent, if seemingly dangerous, options for longer trips.

If Kathmandu is the heart of Nepal, then Durbar Square is the heart of Kathmandu. This thousand-year-old square is home to an array of temples and sights. Because of its fame, the square is crowded with hawkers offering to sell something or act as guides. This may be unpleasant, but viewing temples such as Taleju Temple (the square’s oldest) and Kumari Palace (the strangest: home of a twelve year old girl who is revered as a living god) make the trip worth while.

It is a bit of a walk to get to the Monkey Temple, outside the city, but it is worth it for the views of Kathmandu. Gazing at the sights below can be an almost otherworldly experience. Similarly sublime is a visit to King's Palace before dusk. Massive bats use the trees outside the palace as a headquarters, and rise up in one loud, large crowd to head out for the night.

Around Thamil Chowk area is great for shopping. Tailored clothes are cheap and well made, as are souvenirs. Be assured however, that whatever “artifacts” that you purchase are not valuable. Don’t let a salesperson tell you that they are. The Thamil area has numerous restaurants serving both international and local fare. Many of the smaller Nepali restaurants serve quality grub at prices much cheaper than restaurants catering to foreigners. Everest Steak House and Fire & Ice are a couple of restaurants in Thamil popular with visitors and expats. Found nearby these western style eateries is Tongues and Tales, a decent place to knock back a few cocktails.

There is plenty more to see and do in Kathmandu. The city is as colorful as its brightly painted houses, and there are endless alleyways and temples to wander through.