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Wearing a Tuxedo Well

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By kbdunn


Step 1: Style

There are a lot of different tuxedos but a man needs to focus on one style, the classic black 1 button. Read the rest of this guide to learn how to dress well as the Best Man.This is your solid black (no stripes) 100% wool tuxedo. The jacket needs to have a single button. While 2 button jackets are great for business suits, a formal black tie event requires a tux jacket with only one button. The lapels on the jacket need to be peak and in a material that matches the bow tie. If the jacket is made with grosgrain lapels, purchase a grosgrain tie and the same goes with black satin.



Great fitting tuxedo

The Fit

Here is the most important aspect of the male silhouette - the fit. A man's jacket needs to hug his shoulders and not extend past them. Too many men purchase jackets that are one or two sizes too large, say if they wear a 40 they are buying 44 because of "comfort." The problem is they look sloppy and as if they are in someone else's clothes.

The size of the waist also needs to be taken into account. I'd say no more than two fists worth between your stomach and the fabric of the jacket. This may seem too snug at first, but your tuxedo is not meant to sleep in, it is made to make you look as presentable, and slim, as possible. This is the sacrifice men need to take when dressing in well-fitting clothing. Ask your tailor to take in the waist until it is slim and you can fit a fist or two in, nothing more! 

The pants are another matter. Some men wear their pants too high (by their navels) and others too low (slouchy like lowriding jeans). The proper way to wear tux pants (and suits for that matter) is slightly above your hips and below your belly button. This is a great medium between too high and too low.

The length of pants are always sloppy on most men. Don't make the same mistake. Ask your tailor to hem the pants with a "single break." A single break is when there is just one dent in the pants as they lie ontop of your shoes. Too many men dressing up wear their trousers a tad too long and it bunches up, drags on the ground, and makes the legs look short and stubby.  


Subtle cuff links, subtle bow tie, perfect!
Subtle cuff links, subtle bow tie, perfect!
No cummerbund!
No cummerbund!
Proper black tie shoes
Proper black tie shoes

Accessories

There are only a few rules to wearing the tuxedo right:

Ditch the cummerbund. This isnt the 1980's, and removing that awful thing will clean up your appearance and show more shirt.

Watch the size of your tie: A lot of the time men buy a big bushy bow tie. Find one that is slim and more modern that matches your face. A big poofy tie will make you look like a kid playing grown up.

Shoes. Don't wear square toe rubber soled shoes. Opt for classic, clean and sleek black lace-ups with a rounded toe, 3/4" stacked leather heel. If you don't know what this means then ask a shoe rep at a good store like Nordstrom (for shoes at least) or Saks.

Color: Black. Simple as that. Don't wear a baby blue or pink tuxedo, you aren't in a movie. Unless you are going to a costume party, dress your part and wear proper black tie.

Coat: When wearing a tuxedo, you need a coat that is just as elegant. Ditch the nylon zip ups, North Face jackets and anything you would wear to the slopes. You need a standard wool or cashmere overcoat that hits at or above your knees. The color of the coat is most suitably black, but charcoal gray or navy works well too.

Hats: Avoid hats with tuxedo's.

Cuff Links: These are great, just make sure they are on the minimalist side. Don't wear anything with letters or weird figures. A standard oval or square with black trim is great here. The less attention they draw the better. 


How about the watch?

Your watch needs to be as slim and sleek as your tuxedo. Black tie is classic formal wear, keep your timepiece in the same league with a leather strap and basic black face. Keep those chunky chronographs with the compasses at home or on the fishing boat, you need to be dressy, not flashy here. 


White dinner jacket and tux pants
White dinner jacket and tux pants

How about variations on the tuxedo?

Yep, you can kick the style up a notch if you are a chance-taker. Try a white dinner jacket or blue shirt to keep your look fresh. I would not recommend doing this if you are at a wedding, but for other "formal" events like New Year's Eve or a snazzy Christmas get together, feel free to experiment, with taste that is. 


Pale blue shirt and bow tie
Pale blue shirt and bow tie

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Oxfordian  says:
5 months ago

Watches are not worn at all with black tie!!! Since it is a black tie event, you are not supposed to be worried about the time. Daniel Craig wears the watch merely for the advertising money.

Also, if the occasion is not extremely formal and people are merely there to have a good time and possibly get drunk, then a loud and coulourful bowtie is perfectly acceptably. Especially in Britain. This is especially encouraged if you have to go to black tie events more often than once a month. A withe tuxedo will make you stand out and look more ridiculous than a loud bowtie and handkerchief.

While the cummerbund is not necessary it makes you seem more formal. If the occasion is formal enough to require a black bowtie, you should probably wear the cummberbund. Shiny patent leather shoes will perfect that impression and make you look proper.

bob thomas  says:
2 weeks ago

Can I wear a very dark navy blue tuxedo with pinstripes to a black tie event. It's a formal lawyer event but i do like to stand out a bit, but do not want to break code...

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