I love full sun gardens, and the sight of a meadow lit by the spring sun and dotted with wild flowers is a most marvelous sight. A nice fresh patio or deck dressed out in potted flora and flower softens edges and dresses up a sunny out door area, and is extremely beautiful on a summer afternoon. But, for a nice relaxing, plain old fashioned sit and sip, or an afternoon nap, you just can't beat a shade garden. Be it a foliage garden, showing off the varying greens and golden yellows, and accenting them with some of the unusual colors available in non flowering, shade loving plants, or showcasing blooming shade loving plants, or a mix of the two, you can't beat the breath-taking affects you can create. Shade gardens tend to take on different looks and colors as the available light in the shade garden changes throughout the day.

One of my favorite places to go while I lived in South Carolina was a very shadey natural garden I stumbled upon during a hike. The quiet cool dreamy little piece of heaven was carpeted by forest moss with wild flowers popping up here and there, There were ferns and blooming wild Rhododendrens of different colors, several wild lillies, and the sweet smell of the earth and the perfume of the flowers. A delightful little get away from the 100 degree sun into a paradise that was at least 20 degrees cooler. (And the stream allowed me to cool my tootsies. Something I am sure the local trout population was none too thrilled with)

There are so many plants suited for shade gardens, as well as a good number available for areas of extremely low light. However, before choosing plants, it is important to observe just how much light an area gets before opening your wallet.

Perennials can be expensive. It makes little sense to purchase plants you don't have the conditions for. At least that is the popular conscencous for many gardeners. It is a very safe stance to take. I don't agree to that philosophy of gardening. (What a shock) If I don't have the adequate garden space available for a plant to flourish, I make it so. Such is the project that is transforming our backyard into a psuedo-forest-floor garden, complete with a range of plants from complete shade to semi-shade loving, a water fall and pond, and attached bog garden. I am determined to re-create the marvelous natural little oasis I mentioned earlier.

To me, a large part of gardening is art. Creating small vignettes of the picture I see of a restful garden for sitting, for enjoying the peace and serenity of the setting. A place for an intimate meal with my loved one, or a place to sit and sip an iced tea on a hot afternoon after weeding the vegetable garden. A cool little oasis in the shade. To do that, I have had to manipulate the area I visualized for such a spot. In the grand scope of things, I have managed to create several conditions which will support plants that tollerate several different levels of light. Yup! I did. I'm not joshin you!

Yes way. It can be done. And, thanks for noticing. (You are very observant) In fact that is the reaction I got when I first began developing the idea so don't feel lonely in thinking it is a nutty idea. But it works.

I began by deciding what types of plants I needed to recreate the scene I had pictured in my (rather vivid) imagination. In this case, I knew that ferns would be a must. I long have admired the different textures and colors available in ferns. They are primarily a low light level loving plant which enjoy damp, but well drained soil. Though, there are some ferns which enjoy a slightly higher level of light, but with that, the texture of the frons are a bit tougher than those who prefer shade. I also knew there needed to be plenty of ground cover, varying from mosses which hug the ground, to ground cover less compact, and more airy. I knew I would also need some flowers, both annuals and perennials, along with a few shrub like plants and an evergreen or two of some kind, and a way to provide for all these needs in just one area. (Boy, I guess I am crazy! That's alot of work!)

Any way, I have pulled together a bit of a list of plants for the varying levels of light that work well in a shade garden. Now don't be fooled by terminology. There is a difference between light, and direct sun. Direct sun is when your plant sits in the sun, no shade, no bigger plants around to screen any of the sun around. Light filters into a shade garden in varying strengths. As long a a plant which prefers partial shade is not in direct line of sight of the sun, it will be okay as long as the moisture content of the soil is satisfied. (And I really hope that makes sense because I don't know any other way of saying it) So, following is a list of some suggested plants for low light areas, along with the moisture requirements, light requirements, and maybe some other stuff.

Lets start this project from the ground up. Ground cover is a good place to start.(Assuming you have already planted your bulbs in the fall, which should be up by the time you are working the ground, or spring planted bulbs and you remember where they are!) Actually, preparing the ground is where you begin, but if you have read my other Hubs on gardening, you already know my philosophy on soil preperation. (If you haven't, better get crackin!)

I like to begin at the very base of ground cover. Moss. Yup, that green fuzzy stuff. Moss, like the type that grows in the forest, or covers the ground in extremely shaded areas with poorer drainage. Mosses, in the forest are beneficial, and usually get a foot hold on lichen. (Lichen is the lacy stuff you see growing on some rocks and branches in the forest. Lichen breaks down the surface of rocks and old branches, and is the first step in the production of soil. Moss, which has a compact root system, and air roots to support it, takes advantage of the lack of soil or poor soil to grow in. Moss benefits the ecosystem because it begins to nourish the soil throughout it's life. Moss helps in the breakdown of rock to soil, and in poor soils, it puts vital nutrients into the ground as it dies. Moss is good stuff. (Funny we tend to panic when we see it in out lawns, and under trees)

Moss grows best in the damp to wet, darkest areas under your trees, on shady tree trunks, and on shady rocks. In fact, if you are striving on a natural looking shade garden, it is wonderful to have moss covered stones showing.

A quick trick to get moss to grow on shady stones, (For affect), smear plain yogurt on the surface of the stones. (Don't water them afterwards. That just washes off the yogurt!) If you can refrain from licking your rocks, (I'm referring to the yougurt fanatics out there) guess what!? You will have moss growing in no time flat! Honest!

In the past, when I used to do Landscaping professionally, I would often take heavily clayed soil and transfer it under trees, (In small areas) that had heavy shade under them, when doing shade gardens. I would then transplant the mosses from troubled areas to this one spot. Moss love heavily clayed, compacted soils that tend to stay damp to semi-wet. This allowed me to fix the problem areas while creating a realistic look in a shade garden!

Moss is just moss though, and although the texture is soft and pretty, you can hardly use it through-out the garden as an effective ground cover. Moss tends to be flat. We need some texture. Scotch Moss is a ground cover that not only covers the ground, but is thick, and is of a family of plants that just live to be walked on! If you happen to have stone walk ways, it makes a great living morter for between the stones. It is a durable and happy little plant that spreads quickly and fills in very lushly, and even better, looks totally natural anywhere it grows.

Sedums are another ground cover which grows quickly, spreads nicely, carpets the soil and there are many variations which flower with different colored (scentless and scented) flowers. Sedums are succulents, so in drought, they do pretty well. they tolerate almost every light condition, and in fact, I have grown them from the deepest shaded areas of a garden to direct sunlight. They just need time to adapt to the particular conditions you place them in. (I have never, to date, killed a sedum because I planted it in the wrong place!)

Moss Pink, or creeping phlox is another popular and easy to grow ground cover. They enjoy full sun to light shade, and put out a mess of flowers and look like little wild flowers. A natural look for a foresty shade garden. They also love good drainage, so don't put them right next to moss. (Unless you really don't want them to grow) These things are a cinch to plant. I just make a shallow dip in the soil, plop them down and cover them with some compost. A press down, a little water and there you go!

I love Allysum. Primarily they come in white, pink and purple. The flowers are dainty and plentiful, and the honeysweet aroma fills a garden for as long as they last. (And thats a long while!) These beautiful flowers cover the ground and will cascade over rock and wood to soften sharp corners of the garden and blend areas together. Large patches of these little beauties look like puffy throw rugs in your garden and attract a myriad of beneficial insects for the reproduction of other flowers and plants, and that is a good thing!

I don't know why, but for some reason, some folks list Hostas as ground cover. I really don't know why, they just do. I consider them a plant. If I really want to get technical, I classify them as a big plant. If I wanna get real technical, I might call them a perennial. Ground cover? If you say so.

Hostas can live in a wide band of light requirements, and I have had the most success growing them in anything from partial shade to partial sun.(Is there really a difference?) I know some folks that have grown them in full shade, but my luck in that department has been rather poopy, so I keep them in brighter areas that only get shade in the afternoon and evening. (Oh yah, they do really well if deer don't eat them down to the ground) I have had the most luck with the Plantain Lily Hosta. Don't forget to keep your soil moist as well.

I like to sprinkle bulbs around the garden as well. Crocus are a nice choice to get some early spring color into a shade garden. They do best in areas which get a bit of light in the mornings, but shade pretty much for the rest of the day. At least, that is the way I have had the most luck. I like to plant Lilly of the Valley as well. They add a nice scent to the shade garden that lingers and tends to settle into certain areas where the air is a bit damp. Then, of course there are the annuals to fill in some holes, and pump up the color. There is a myriad of annuanls that do well in shady areas, and it is best to check in your area for particulars. Trust your own judgement here. The garden is for you. If you see something you like, and are unsure if it will work in the spot you are trying to finish out, give it a try. You may suprise yourself! Here is a small suggestion. There are no tried and true rules to garden design. If a plant is not doing well in a spot, there is no rule that you can not pot it, so that it is mobile, and put it in the place you want it to be. You can move the pot to a more ideal spot for a bit of sun perhaps, and then putting it back when the garden is to be on display. Works for me!

In fact, there are times when I even pot a plant, then bury the pot into the garden! Why would I do something like that? Cause I like to dig holes. (Just kidding) Actually, there are some plants that no matter how hard you try to keep them under control, they tend to take over. Fancy talkin folks call them "Invasive". ( I usually just refer to them as "Those damn things") Plants like Bamboo for instance, which can grow in shady areas. (In fact, growing Bamboo in some places is frowned upon, so check your area) is extremely invasive. You can check this habit by planting it in a large container, and then burying the container in the garden. I guarantee it won't travel beyond the buried container. Pretty cool, huh!?

Ferns are very interesting plants for shade gardens. They also tolerate a wide spectrum of light requirements, and you will be delighted to know there are ferns for every space you can picture. There are also different watering requirements to take into consideration as well. Some ferns like dryer soil while others thrive in wetter spots, as long as the soil has good drainage. Then of course, there are those who prefer a not to wet, not to dry soil. Here are a few examples of ferns that I have had a lot os success with that you can look for, the estimated size to expect, light requirements, and moisture needs. (Wow! That sounds like a lot of typin!)

Shade Loving Ferns

Northern Maiden Hair, 14 - 28", Wet

Lobed Spleenwort, 2 - 7", Dry

Reserection Fern, 2 -7", Dry

Mountain Ferns

Maiden Hair Spleenwort, 2 - 8", Shade, Moderate

Wooly Lip Fern, 10 - 20", Sun, Dry

Evergreen Wood Fern, 18 - 36", Shade, Moderate

Some other really cool Ferns.

Japanese Painted Fern, 10 - 15", Light to full shade, Moist

Hay-scented Fern, 18 - 30", Light to full shade, Moist

Autumn Fern, 24 - 36", Light to full shade, Moist

As I said before, I have had extremely good luck with these and several other Ferns. (Like Boston and Sword) I also like to plant annuals amoungst the ferns and succulants.(which I also said before, but now I will elaborate!) Pansies do very well when planted amoung ferns, as do Foxglove and Snap Dragpns (Which can be used to mimick Lady Slippers in a woodland setting) Have a ball. There are several plants that will do well in a shade garden, if placed in the right areas. Petunias do well in my shade garden. They usually get potted and hung on a shepard hook, suspended about a foot above head level for an average sized person, sitting down. Why? Because the Petunia puts out a perfume that drifts around our sitting area and is light enough to stay at that level. (Especially on those humid evenings.

Now, if you have a problem with Mosquitoes, (Minnesota's Other State Bird), try an interesting plant known as the Citranella Plant. This little prize is of the Marigold family, from what I have been told in the past. (And Marigolds in a garden help reduce insects in the garden as well as repels rabbits!) How cool is that? Plant a few of these babies around the yard where you entertain, or cook out, or snooze, or what ever you do in the privacy of your garden, and the skeeters will find another family to munch on. They think these fine plants are disgusting, and that is just fine with me. (Sorry there Deep Woods, Natural is way better!) You can break off a sprig and rub it on your skin and you have a natural bug repelent. Whoo Hoo! (You learn something knew every day) Well try this one on for size. Although they prefer sunny areas, they can, and do, do well, (I said dodo. Hee Hee!) in areas where they only receive morning light, to say around ten or eleven. Light shade through the afternoon to early evening, into a darker shade before sunset. (I know that is very specific, but some folks like that, for some reason. I don't. Expierament for yourself.)

Ferns, for the most part are extremely hardy and healthy, despite their spindly and fragile appearence. But, there are things that can go wrong with them. Catching a problem quickly will save you from headaches later on. For the most part, there are two enemies to the friendly fern. They are:

• Hemispherical scale
• Mealy Bugs

There are two ways of taking care of the scale problems, which left unchecked will certainly lower the number of ferns in your garden. You will begin to notice a sticky clear goo on your plants, and eventually a black moldy look on the undersides of the fern fronds. (Thats fun to say out loud. Fern Fronds!) Anyway, a couple drops of dishwashing detergent in a spray bottle is supposed to work, although I find Murphy's oil soap works better. Fill the bottle with water and go out yonder and spray all under the fronds and on the stalks. Or, you can go out and get a bunch of Lady Bugs. You choose. the Lady bugs are alot easier, and they will stick around and help munch the little varmints that might attack some of your other plants too. (Like Mealy Bugs)

Slugs too can be an issue in shade gardens due to moisture. A few coffee grounds sprinkled around your plants will head them off. Slugs hate coffee. (Ever see one at a Starbucks?) Oh, by the way, decaffinated coffee grounds won't work.

Finally, ferns love to be planted in slightly sandy, well draining soil, and despise the afternoon sun. So, as you can see, they have few enemies and require little in soil preparation to thrive. All you need to do is get them into the ground in a place that they will get a bit of light in the early morning, and pretty much filtered light and shade for the rest of the day. Ferns all can stand a bit of drought, but not a lot. Just mist them if they start to look limp.

Ferns can be devided by seperating clumps, or by cutting off established runners. The best time to divide ferns is after the first frost in November. They may be planted right away after dividing, and no fertilizer is needed for fall plantings.

Aw! I knew that would catch your attention! I guess you will just have to read my next Hub on Gardening! Yup, it was a teaser! I know that is mean, but a guy has to do something to keep you folks reading! So, till next time, get out there and dig up your yard, and plant some junk. (You will have less grass to mow!)