What's the difference in car oils and what's the best oil to put in your car?
86What is Oil and Why is it in My Engine?
First of all, oil is the substance that lubricates the internal moving components of your vehicles engine. There are many different types of oils on the market suitable for car engines but there are some basics that you should know when purchasing an oil.
Viscosity
This is simply how readily the oil flows. A higher viscosity oil will withstand more heat than a lower viscosity oil. However, at colder temperatures it can actually become so thick that your starter cannot turn over the engine - and worse yet it won't flow to all the moving parts it should. A viscosity that is too low won't maintain a lubricating film on engine parts - allowing them to make metal-to-metal contact. Either extreme is very bad!
SINGLE GRADE VS MULTI-GRADE
Single-grade engine oils (such as SAE 30) used to be the standard for engines operating at high temperatures (such as air-cooled engines). Since the advent of the American Petroleum Institute (API) rating system, the multi-grade oils that proliferate shelves now-days are suitable for nearly all applications. I did have an older gentleman tell me today that his '30 Ford won't build oil pressure with multi-grade oil - but then again, I'd be surprised if his '30ish Ford builds oil pressure at all....
Coincidentally, SAE stands for Society of Automotive Engineers.
SELECTING YOUR GRADE
So which oil you should choose will mostly depend on what you're driving. If your car is not an antique or air-cooled, the safest bet is to use a multi-grade oil. The first number on a multi-grade oil indicates the "cold" viscosity of the lubricant - the second number the "hot" viscosity. For example, a SAE 10W-40 motor oil would have a viscosity rating of 10 at 0-degrees Fahrenheit (the W indicates "Winter") and a 40 rating at its maximum recommended temperature (not engine operating temperature - ambient air temperature).
The following chart is a good place to start. Determine the temperatures you'll be driving in and select an oil accordingly.
The Breakdown
Mail Order Motor Oil
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Also consider your driving habits and the condition of your car. If you drive hard - keeping the engine near redline for extended periods of time - or you do a lot of high RPM "freeway" driving - then you may want to select a higher viscosity oil for your car. Also, if your engine is high mileage, a high viscosity oil will keep it a little quieter and may not slip through the rings to be burned (blue smoke).
If your car is newer, you will most likely want a lower viscosity oil. This is true of most newer high-performance cars also - they too have tighter bearing tolerances and recommend a low viscosity oil (it doesn't rob as much power from the engine).
Over-all, If you expect very cold weather ahead, definitely choose an oil with a lower "cold" viscosity. If you live in a warmer region, a higher winter rating (the W rating) will help keep your cam and valves from clattering when you first start your car.
I hope this helped. Please - remember to Vote and vote often....
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Comments
Ah yes, the synthetic vs. mined petroleum debate! :)
My father was an AmsOil dealer when I was in high school. The truck that he gave my brother and I was fitted with an accessory AmsOil filter (in addition to the regular oil filter) and was lubed entirely by AmsOil synthetic oil. It was a 1982 Chevrolet 1500 shortbed fleetside 2wd pickup and it died promptly at 120,000 miles. The synthetic lubricants and extra filter did not save the engine from its typical lifespan.
The truck died while we were in college and at the time we were working in the college (University really) motor pool. I asked my boss (who was a certified mechanic) "why didn't the engine last longer on synthetics"? His answer to me; "its not the lubrication that kills the engine, its the dirt." Even with the extra filters, to keep an engine clean requires changing the oil.
Now in our '82, the extra filter stretched the synthetic oil changes to 7500+ miles AND a normal oil would be broken down after this much life in a vehicle. Even in the '90's, the cost of the extra filter and synthetic lubes about equaled a typical oil change cost (since I did the work myself).
I am not against synthetics and I don't know the differences between the different synthetic brands. In my limited experience with them, they did not stretch the life of the engine - they simply stretched the life of the oil change but with no overall cost savings. In todays world where conservation is king, that is probably a very good thing to consider. However, if your car leaks or burns oil, then you're burning money on synthetic lubes as well.
I do know Mobil makes synthetics for alot of companies and that Castrol Syntec is not a full synthetic as they claim (at least in not the Americas) I have had good luck with synthetics, but as was mentioned, FILTRATION! I never skimp while buying the filter. I almost lost a freshly rebuilt engine because of a faulty cheap Fram filter.











Jerry Watson says:
2 years ago
You didn't touch on the synthetic lubricants in your article and I would be interested to hear what you have to say on the subject. I thought you did a good job with this Hub about oil, though. Pretty slick! (Sorry, couldn't resist!)