Formerly independent kingdoms for centuries, Jammu and Kashmir were the gateway between India and the trade routes of Central Asia. In 1947, the states merged into one - Jammu & Kashmir.

SRINAGAR

Situated at 1,700m, Srinagar was the ancient summer capital of J&K, while balmy, lowland Jammu was the winter capital. Srinagar's defining feature is Lake Dal. Populated by luxury houseboats, it's a favourite retreat for holidaymakers.

Srinagar's an interesting, decidedly Central-Asian mix of bazaars, spice traders, carpet merchants, mosques and outdoor markets. It is a great base to explore the surrounding mountains and valleys, especially in spring or high-summer, and it's as an excellent entry point to India's best ski fields.

SKIING GULNIARG

For serious skiers, the Himalayas bring with it the promise of high-altitude piste and heliskiing on some of the best peaks in the world. With slopes topping 4,000m just a short drive from Srinagar, Gulmarg is the Himalaya's most accessible winter spot.

In winter, it's also India's premier ski resort, with extensive fields spreading out below Mt. Afarwat. Catering to domestic tourists, there are runs for all abilities.

While Gulmarg's official season is from 15 December to 15 April, the snow cover is dense, thick powder for much of the year above 4,1 00m, so there's early (Nov) and late season (early May) skiing most years.

Gulmarg's attraction is its cheap ski rentals (from Rs300/day), and a combined lift ticket and ski pass for Rs100/day. Another attraction is the access given by the new gondola to high-altitude slopes with world-class powder, the likes of which is normally only accessible to heliskiers. Gulmarg's lower slopes are serviced by one basic chairlift and several tow rope lifts. Decidedly more modern is Gulmarg's newish Gondola Cable Car, which starts from an altitude of 2,730m, (roughly 1 km out of town), that delivers the majority of skiers to the first of 2 stages at Apharwat (3,930m). The second and final stage drops you at the world-beating Snow Cycles (4,390m). Return tickets to the top cost only Rs700.

Gulmarg's ungroomed, off-piste areas (from 4,000m) see a dedicated repeat troop from Japan, Australia and New Zealand.

Gulmarg town is not big; everything is virtually along the single main, ring road. There's a range of accommodations (not all have hot water or heating) and better establishments run from Rs1,500/night, with a bahari (fireplace) or central heating. Gulmarg's 2 most posh establishments - the Hilltop and the colonial-styled Highlands Park - range from Rs4,000/night.

Skiing events in Srinagar

Srinagar's 2 annual ski events are the Kashmir Snow Festival (December) and Gulmarg's International Skiing Race (March).

LADAKH

Winter in the Himalayan Buddhist enclave of Ladakh might not be as colourful as its spring, but winter is when Ladakis let their hair down and party, celebrating with several boisterous festivals, including Losar (Tibetan New Year). Another unique aspect to the Ladaki winter is that there are epic ski and snowshoe hikes across the snow-bound Zanskar Valley, and its famous frozen waterway, the Zanskar River.

ZANSKAR VALLEY

There are few places in developed destinations that are as isolated as Zanskar Valley. In summer, Zanskar (located along the Srinagar-Leh Road) is a 14-hour 4WD drive along the Saru River, or a 7-day hike in from the nearest town Kargil. In winter (November to May), Zanskar's completely cut off as the icy, 5,000m roads become impassable. It's this time that the need for a walking route in and out of the valley becomes apparent.

Padum

A big city by Zanskari standards, the district capital of Padum is little more than a quaint mountain village, home to just 800 residents and a few dusty streets, a small market, a modest mosque and Oust out of town) the Pibiting Monastery (Padum's predominately Buddhist). It lies at the conflux of 3 main valleys and all the main mountain passes in Zanskar run through it. In summer, farmers graze their yaks on the surrounding slopes, while in winter; they participate in annual celebrations like Losar.

As the starting point for Zanskar treks, the local tourism office can advise on trail conditions or the hiring of porters and yaks. There's only one private operator in Padum (Zanskar Trekking) with knowledgeable guides, and it's best arranged in advance from overseas or from Leh.

Routes Out of Padum

Due to the altitude, Padum's trekking season peaks between June to October, when all but the most extreme trails are snow-free. With the exception of the Chadar Trek, all of Padum's popular routes, including Lamayuru and Shinkun Pass, have extended stretches over 5,000m.

Padum - Darcha

Probably Zanskar's most well-known trek, the route to Darcha continues to grow in popularity as the development of the new Tsarap Valley leg of the Manali-Leh highway allows for a the shaving off of 2-3 days of the trek. Departing Padum, its a 2-day trek to the picturesque cave monastery of Phuktal. Most groups base themselves at Purne for an extra day's acclimatisation.

From there its a day each to Sking and then Lhakhang, after which the final (and most daunting) hurdle is Shinkun La at 5,090m (the route's highest point). Then its all downhill as the trail descends to meet the highway outside Darcha.

Padam - Lamayuru

Leaving Padum along the Zanskar River, the Lamayuru trek takes about 9 days to reach the monastery at Karsha. From there, the route continues on foot through Hanuma La (4,950m) and Lingshet Gompa (or by 4WD to the Zang La), leading to Zanskar's longest rope suspension bridge to Pishu. Topping out over the crest of the Zanskar range, the trail crosses Singge La (5,045m), with views over the entire chain, before a winding down to Sisir La (4,851 m) and eventually, the overnight stop at Wanla village. From there, energy allowing, trekkers continue by foot, or 4WD into Lamayuru.

Chadar

Probably one of the world's most unique treks due to its solitude, the famed Chadar winter trek is less taxing, as it's at altitudes of around 3,500m, following the path of the frozen Zanskar River. The trek starts with a ride to Chiling, and from there, it's 7 straight days out in the cold. The trail winds its way though a clefted moonscape and trekkers make camp each night in the alcoves along the steep-sided riverbanks.