Discovering Scotland: The Isle of Islay

The beautiful Isle of Islay, the ancient seat of the Lord of the Isles, is the most southerly of the Hebridean Isles and is considered by many to be the malt whisky capital of Scotland. The "Illeachs," as the islanders are known, are a wonderfully friendly, lyrical and embracing group of people who will generally go out of their way to make your visit as enjoyable as possible.

Islay is usually reached by ferry from the mainland port of Kennacraig, which is an approximate three hour drive from Glasgow, through some of the most picturesque scenery imaginable. There is a bus operates from Glasgow Buchanan Street Bus Station in the city centre. The service is provided by Scottish Citylink and is timed to coincide with ferry departures. If taking your car across to Islay, note that it is essential to book in advance with Caledonian MacBrayne. There is also a daily flight from Glasgow which only takes about half an hour but this deprives particularly a first time visitor of the natural beauty to be seen on the drive up and on the ferry crossing.

The ferry alternates its operation to Islay between the island ports of Port Ellen and Port Askaig. On board, there are numerous observation decks to watch the stunning scenery slip by, including the magnificent "Paps of Jura," three mountains on the neighbouring island. If you are hungry, there is a spacious canteen selling hot and cold meals and snacks, but it is advisable to eat early in the voyage if you want to maximise your choices, especially on busy crossings. There is also a small newspaper, magazine and souvenir shop and a licensed bar.

When you arrive on the island, I would advise any traveller to base themselves in Bowmore, the island's capital, due to both its central location and amenities. This is approximately twenty minutes to half an hour's drive away from each of the ports. The island's bus service is good and reliable both for getting to Bowmore in the first instance and for making subsequent day trips and excursions. The town has several hotels and guest houses to choose from but it is essential, particularly in summer, to book in advance. I personally have almost always stayed at the Lochside Hotel on Shore Street, just off the main street. It is a small, family run, very friendly and reasonably priced concern, with an impressive lounge, bar and conservatory for dining in. It is also worth splashing out one night to treat yourself to dinner at The Harbour Inn, which although expensive is unsurpassed for its selection of fresh seafood and game among many other options.

Bowmore also plays host to many other attractions and facilities. There are a number of shops to cater for all basic tastes and needs, two banks, a swimming pool, a tearoom/cafe, an Indian restaurant, a tourist information office where the staff are always very friendly and helpful and, perhaps above all, my own personal favourite among the island's seven working distilleries, Bowmore Distillery. Tours of the distillery operate each week day and, where possible, should be booked in advance to avoid disappointment. You will be guided through the establishment by a friendly and informative tour operator and ultimately given the opportunity to partake of a "wee dram" in the bar and function area. Bowmore Darkest is my favourite malt whisky and truly is "class in a glass!"

The only other distillery I have to date personally visited and toured is Bruichladdich, across Loch Indaal - the sea loch which bites in to the west coastline of the island - from Bowmore. It is perhaps a half hour's drive from the capital but is well worth a visit and you will find the staff every bit as welcoming and accommodating. If you are heading to this part of the island, it is essential to stop off in the picturesque little village of Port Charlotte, three or four miles before the distillery, for lunch. The Seafood Platter served in the Port Charlotte Hotel is the most comprehensive and delectable selection of ocean produce I have ever encountered, beautifully presented and prepared, and any seafood lover's dream culinary experience. Try to get a seat in the conservatory offering beautiful views out over the loch as you enjoy your meal.

The other distilleries are located three out by Port Ellen and two near Port Askaig, all of which offer tours at varying times, but take care if paying them a visit as some do require to be pre-booked.

The island also offers a wealth of other outdoor activities to locals and travellers alike. There is a golf course, clay pigeon shooting, several nature reserves and bird sanctuaries, pony trekking and, naturally, such a location provides endless opportunities for fishermen, either in fresh or salt water.

I hope that some day you too will have the opportunity to visit this true "gem of Scotland" and experience the atmosphere and vitality of the place for yourself.

Slainte mhath! (Good health!)