• Give your dog a leash correction?
• Stand like a tree until he calms down?
• Buy a prong collar?
• Socialize your dog with the rollerblader?

Answer: As you may have already guessed, this is a trick question. Each one of these could possibly work depending on why your dog lunged. On the flipside, each could significantly worsen your dog's behavior if you don't react appropriately.

Food or Foe?

There are two main reasons why your dog lunges on the leash: Food (Prey) or Foe (Defense).

Prey drive is your dog's natural instinct to hunt for food. Defense drive, on the other hand, is triggered by fear and confusion. You can tell the difference by examining the body language of both the dog and agitator. The following chart is a guideline, but can vary from one dog to another.

Comfortable and happy

Agitator moves tangential or away from you

Ears forward

Tail raised, possibly wagging

Higher bark, no teeth showing

Normal coat

Mistake #1: Socializing for Prey Drive

Suppose your dog lunges in prey drive, and afterwards you approach the agitator in an attempt to socialize your dog. This worsens the behavior, because it teaches that chasing prey will result in praise—in this case, from the agitator.

Don't assume that by socializing with prey, you've taught your dog that a rollerblader isn't prey. Your dog distinguishes prey by visual movement—not by who's wearing the rollerblades. From your dog's perpective, a STANDING ROLLERBLADER versus a SPEEDING ROLLERBLADER are two separate entities. Prey behavior is reflexive, not emotional; so these tendencies never truly go away [1].

Fortunately, reflex is behavior, and you can condition behavior. In this case, you could condition the dog to sit when he sees a rollerblader. Whether by compulsion or clicker-training, appropriate correction doesn't trigger aggression as long as his reactions are not emotionally-based. However, excessive corrections without reward may trigger fear of the agitator, which has the potential to transform prey drive into defense drive.

Mistake #2: Physical Corrections for Defense Drive (Anxiety)

Defense is different because the dog is unsure of a new situation. In this case, the dog could continue barking, even after the rollerblader stops moving [2]. Make no mistake about it, defense drive is fear. By physically correcting him during defense, you will increase his anxiety.

The best method to treat anxiety is by gradual socialization within a controlled environment. Initially, never let your dog approach a stranger—always use a trained professional. Otherwise, you risk worsening the behavior, injury, and euthanization of your pup.

Mistake #3: Relying on Restraints

It's a well-known fact that dogs are more aggressive on-leash. To make matters worse, prey drive can transform into aggression when your dog is restrained. Even prong collars can backfire by amplifying drive.

While restraint devices (prong collar, harness, or flat collar) are effective in keeping your dog from lunging at a stranger, it's never a long-term solution. Worse yet, should your dog get free, you'd have no way to control him. Tools are never a substitute for training.

Better Safe Than Sorry

In any case, if these concepts are new to you, you should hire a professional trainer who can identify and work with canine aggression. I just scratched the surface of this issue; bear in mind that older dogs tend to develop more complex behavior patterns that may require a phased-approach to treatment.

For more training tips, visit my website at: http://www.greatcanineadventure.com

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[1] Cats are a good example of the reflexive nature of prey drive. If you rapidly wave your hands in front of a cat, it has to attack, even though it knows darn well that you aren't food.

[2] It's possible for a dog to chase a prey, but to find himself facing a fight. When this happens, prey drive is replaced by defense drive; so the next time the dog sees the agitator, he'll be in defense drive. This is why training with a professional is crucial for early intervention.