After having owned an original Xbox, I migrated across to an Xbox 360. I found the game play better and the graphics. The games for my original Xbox worked on my 360 and that made me happy as I had paid a lot out for them.

After a year my troubles began, I got the dreaded 3 red lights otherwise know as the ring of death. I contacted Microsoft and they were not at all helpful as my console was out of warranty (now they have extended their warranty to 3 years for the ring of death). I had mine fixed for me, However I have since fixed my friends for them and the How to guide is at the bottom of this article.

I began to search around for a cure and came across a local man who professed to be able to fix this. His name was John and lo and behold he fixed it for me for £30.00. It worked for a while and then I got the E74 error (1 red light). I took it back to him and he explained to me exactly what he had done and that he would also fix the E74 error for me free of charge as I had already paid him for the original repair.

He asked me if I had considered upgrading my console. I asked him what he meant and he explained that by changing the firmware on my Xbox DVD drive I could make backups of all of my games on my PC and use the backups instead of the costly originals which would ensure I kept my originals in pristine condition.

I had the upgrade done and asked about Xbox live and what would happen. It was explained to me that as it was only the firmware on the DVD drive that was upgraded and that it was undetectable to Xbox live.

I have found out that Microsoft have changed the motherboards and DVD drives many times in their consoles, some of the drives are made by Liteon, Hitachi and Samsung. They have improved their motherboards by changing the heat sinks on the Graphics processor which was the main cause of the 3 red lights error. However, they have only pushed the heat inside the consoles over to the chip above the GPU and this is the cause of the E74 error.

How to fix the 3 red lights:-

For the 3 red lights it is necessary to strip the console down to the motherboard.

This is a simple process and will require 5 tools and some basic components.

A flat blade screwdriver with a tip width of 5mm or less.

A star drive set.

A pointed screwdriver with a 2mm or less body.

A pliers.

A heat gun with variable heat settings

8 x m4 10mm screws a 16 metal 1mm in diameter washers.

1 Tube of artic silver.

1 cloth and some lighter fluid.

1. The front cover has one end where there is a notch cut out, pull at the notch and it will come off.

2. The grey side panels have 6 clips which hold them onto the body. Looking through the holes you can see where they connect. Push them with the pointed screwdriver and lift the panel in that spot and work your way around it until it comes off.

3. The back of the console has 6 slots into which the screwdriver fits to pop the mechanisms.

The front of the console has 4 click over slots which open very easily.

Once you have popped them all open the bottom of the case will come off.

4. There are silver screws holding the top of the console on and these have to be removed using a star drive. I found it easier to remove all of the silver screws on the metal inner case at once.

Turn the metal case over and remove the DVD drive eject button by putting your small flat blade under the end attached to the DVD and flicking it outwards gently. Then lift off the lid.

5. Now that you can see the motherboard and inside of the console you can start to remove bits, The first thing here is to unplug the cables from the back of the DVD drive then lift it out.

6.The white cover in front of the fans lifts out once you have unclipped the top.

7. Unplug the fans from the motherboard.

8. Turn the metal case over and remove the 8 small black screws that hold the x clamps to the board, slide your hand under and hold the motherboard while you turn it back over.

9. Lift out the motherboard from the case.

10. On the back of the board you will find the 2 x clamps that hold the heat sinks to the board, place your screwdriver into 1 corner and bend it outwards over the retaining leg. Repeat this on the other side and the x clamp will come off. Do this for both X clamps and the heat sinks will lift off.

11. Now for the lighter fluid and cloth, put a little squirt of the fluid on the 2 processors and rub with your cloth to remove the spent paste. Repeat this on the heat sinks. Wipe clean any excess fluid and allow to dry for at least 10 mins.

12. Heat gun time. Set your heat gun to 100 degrees centigrade. In an up and down motion from GPU chip from the top to the bottom of the board for at least 3 mins. Turn the board over and heat the chip above the GPU for 1 min. This melts the cold solder on the chips and reconnects them.

13. Allow the board to cool for 10 mins.

14. Apply the artic silver paste to the GPU and CPU and refit the heat sinks using 1 metal washer either side of the Motherboard and the M4 screws.

15. Reassemble the Xbox and off you go to happy gaming again.

Before attempting this fix, bear this in mind.

I accept no liability for damage caused by you to your console from following this guide.

If your console is still covered by the Microsoft warranty send it to them.

If you feel that you can not do this yourself then I would recommend the expert who fixed mine:-

http://www.console-upgrade-repairs.com

Phone number +447709868728