How to Replace Cracked or Broken Floor Tiles
Tile floors can be beautiful, care-free and long lasting. There is huge variety of tile sizes and designs to choose from, so you can select floor tile that can suit almost any décor. Because it is easy to keep clean, and does not hold on to dirt and dust, tile floors are a boon to those that have trouble with dust, or who have asthma.
Tile rarely scratches or breaks, if laid on the right foundation. However, even a little movement in the subflooring can cause problems. Because the grout is stronger that the tiles, the tiles will crack first if there is movement or stress. If you're considering tile flooring, then it is a smart move to keep several extra tiles stashed away -- just in case!
Removing the Broken Tile
So, how do you go about replacing a cracked, chipped or broken tile? Your first step, once you have checked to see if you've got that replacement stored away somewhere, is to remove the tile.
Start by carefully remove the grout surrounding the tile. Why start here? Remember -- the grout is stronger that the tile, so if you try removing the tile first, you're likely going to crack the adjoining tiles as well.
We found that a laminate knife with a carbide tip is the best tool to use for grout removing. It's hard tip doesn't wear out, and you can clear away the grout quite quickly. Once all the grout has been removed, carefully pry away the offending tile. Likely it will come out in pieces, which can have sharp edges, so wear a pair of leather gloves for this part.
Once the tile bits are all removed, you need to clean away all the original cement or thinset that held the tile in place. An old chisel works quite well for this, but again, be careful you don't damage the adjoining tiles. If you have a lot of tiles to remove, a local tile shop just may loan you a tool for this.
Replacing the Tile
Now that the tile, grout and old cement are removed, and you're down to clean subflooring, it's time to get ready to replace the tile. Hopefully you have a record of the grout color. but if you don't, take a sample to your tile shop and compare it to the available colors. Once you have the tile, the grout and thinset, you can get to work.
First of all, clean the area by vacuuming up any loose bits. Mix the cement or thinset as directed, and apply it with a notched trowel. Most flooring trowels should have a 1/4 or 3/8 inch notch. Lay the new tile in place, taking care to align it with the surrounding tiles. Tap it in place with a rubber mallet (or something similar), and make sure it's the same level as the ones around it. Clean any cement from the spaces around it, and allow it to set for 24 to 48 hours.
Laying the Tile
Finishing the Job
Once the cement has cured, you need to add the grout - and hopefully you've been able to match the original grout perfectly. Mix up enough grout as directed on the packaging, allow it to sit for 10 to 20 minutes, and you're ready to go.
Scoop some of it out, and using a grout float, press the grout into the spaces. Use the float on a 45 degree angle, and clear away the excess grout. Once the crack between the tiles is filled, scrape away excess grout, using the float. Wait 30 minutes; then using a large sponge, just damp, wash away as much of the grout from the tile faces as possible, taking care not to disturb the grout in the cracks.
Once the grout has hardened somewhat, polish the tile with a soft cloth. Allow to harden over the next 36 hours, before washing down the area.
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