No Storage? Build A Garden Shed
If your garage is overloaded with your gardening tools, make a place to keep your tools and equipment and incorporate it into your garden. You can make a 6-foot-by-8-foot garden shed that keeps things handy, complements your yard and can even be a centerpiece of your landscape.
- Moderately Challenging
Things You'll Need
- Wood Stakes
- Miter saw
- Hand Tamper
- Wheel barrow
- Concrete trowel
- Stone Rake
- Treated 2x4s
- Hammer drill
- Concrete nail-ins
- Step ladder
- 1/2 inch plywood
- Drip edge
- 15 lb roofing felt paper
- asphalt shingles
- Exterior door
- Exterior paint
- Exterior caulk
Hammer a 12-inch wooden stake into the ground where you want one of the outside corners to be.
Make the frame. Cut two 2x4s with your miter saw, making them 8 feet long. Then cut two 2x4s 69 inches long. Nail one end of one of the 8-foot 2x4s to the end of one of the shorter 2x4s with framing nails; nail through the 8-foot piece first. Then nail the other 8-foot 2x4 to the opposite end of the shorter piece. Place the remaining 69-inch 2x4 on the opposite side and nail into place, to make a square frame for your shed floor. Lay the frame on the ground with one corner against the stake. Nail through the stake into the corner of the frame you made.
Make sure the frame is square. Measure 3 feet along one side and make a mark. Then measure and mark 4 feet along the side perpendicular to the side you just marked. These two sides form an L. If you were to connect the two marks, you would form a triangle. This connection would measure 5 feet if the corner of the L were square. If it's not 5 feet, adjust the frame by shifting it slightly one way or the other. Once square, hammer wood stakes in all the corners.
Using your level, place the level between the secured stake and any one of the unsecured stakes on the frame and raise or lower until this part of the frame is level. Hammer a nail into the stake to hold the frame in position. Repeat this until the frame is secured by the stakes and it is level. Hammer stakes along the outside towards the middle of the sides to strengthen the boards.
Now dig out the dirt in the formed area 6 inches deep to make room for the gravel. Fill up the hole you formed up with 6 inches of 3/4 inch clear stone gravel. This will serve as a drainage plain. Use a hand tamper to compact the gravel by hitting the graveled area repeatedly with the tamper plate. The area is now ready for pouring the concrete floor.
Call a concrete delivery company. Give them the dimensions including depth. They will tell you what time they will deliver the concrete. When they arrive, they will position the concrete truck chute so you can us your wheel barrow for transporting the concrete. Dump the wheel barrows of concrete into the hole. Spread the concrete with a stone rack to make it somewhat even. Continue until you have a concrete pad. Now take a 2x4 and shimmy the board across the tops of the forms. This will smooth out the surface of the concrete and expose any holes. Fill holes as needed. Take a concrete trowel and smooth out the edges. Now take a push broom and drag it across the surface. The pad is now complete. Wash your tools and clean up your wheel barrow. When the concrete cures in 12 hours, you can remove the 2x4 frame you made.
To construct the walls, use treated 2x4s. Use the concrete as your edges and cut 4 2x4s exactly the same as the length of the concrete pad. The 2x4s should all be exactly the same length. Turn them on edge and keep them all together like this with the ends even. Mark an “X” on the both ends of each piece. Now measure from one end 24 inches and make a mark. After that mark, put an “X”. Continue to mark every 24 inches. Transfer these marks to the other pieces with a square. This is your lay out for the side two walls. Cut the studs the desired height you would like (typically 7 or 8 feet tall) and nail them where your marks are on top of the “X”.
Stand up one of the walls and push it to the edge of the concrete pad. Use a hammer drill to drill holes through the bottom of the wall into the concrete making sure that the wall stays even with the concrete. Use concrete nail-ins to anchor the walls into the pad. Repeat this for all the walls.
Now nail the wall corners together. Use your level to make the corner straight up and down. Nail another 2x4 over all of the top wall plates to strengthen the wall and corners. Sheet the walls with decorative panel sheeting. The sheeting should be installed vertically. Attach the sheeting using split-less nails and nailing to the wall studs and top plates.
Make an “X” on each end of the shorter walls on the top plates. Measure 24” and make an “X” these marks should line up with your wall studs. This is where the trusses will go for the roof.
Install trusses on the marks you made on the top plates. To attach the trusses, nail at an angle through the gusset plate (metal plate at the ends of the trusses) into the top plate. Nail a 2x4 the exact length of the shed on one of the slope underside of the trusses making sure that the trusses are 24" on center. Use the level to make sure the trusses are straight on the ends. Install an angle brace if necessary. Then sheet over the ends of the trusses with the same decorative sheeting used to sheet the sides of the shed.
Sheet the roof portion of the trusses using 1/2 inch plywood and nailing every 12 inches to the trusses. Install a metal drip edge along all edges of the roof sheeting. Attach with roofing nails into the trusses through the sheathing. Staple 15 lb roofing tar paper onto the roof sheeting starting at the bottom edge. Overlap the felt 2 inches for each piece. Install asphalt shingles over the felt. Follow the instructions on the shingle packaging for the manufacturer's installation procedures, to keep the warranty in force.
To install the door, put the door in the opening you made. Use your level to make the door straight while putting a nail in the corner through the exterior door trim. Double check that the door is still straight and nail the opposite corner. Open the door and go on the inside and shim the sides of the door jamb straight. Then nail the rest of the exterior door trim to the garden shed. Each hinge will have a missing screw. In the package with the door, there are 2 or 3 long screws. Insert them through the hinge and into the framing to support the weight of the door.
Fill in the gaps between the trusses and the outside with 2x4 pieces (roughly 22 ½ inches long if your layout was correct) on the inside of the shed. You can add trim pieces if you want on the outside corners of the shed to give it a more substantial look.
Make sure you caulk all seams, especially the corners and between
Smooth the caulk with your finger for a clean an professional look.
Paint or stain the exterior to your liking. Make sure to use exterior paint.
- For this project, it is nice to have an extra pair of hands.
- Always wear gloves when working with concrete. The chemicals that cure the concrete can burn your skin.
For more information on building projects like this, click here.
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