Painting Tips and Tricks, 7 Gloss Paint, Satin or Eggshell

Gloss Paint, Satin or Eggshell is the 7th Hub in 'Painting Tips and Tricks'. We're redecorating a living room from start to finish. There's one more to come after this which is the last job in the room and that's putting up the lovely wallpaper you've picked.

Gloss Paint, Satin or Eggshell Which One to use for the Top Coat

Gloss Paint, Satin or Eggshell three oil based paints normally used as top coats on internal woodwork.

Eggshell Paint:

The finish is as it says. Look at the outer shell of an egg and that's your finish; dull with a hint of sheen, very close to 'Matt Emulsion'.`
To me it has it uses; in display areas of offices, receptions, conference rooms and minimalistic homes with no children. Anywhere, where people can't put a hand on it; definitely doesn't go well with a budding 4 year old artist in a house.
Because of it's low sheen it tends to absorb grease and dirt, not a good mix for the family home, but as I say it has it's moments.

Satin Paint:

I'm a big fan of Satin, the finish is between Eggshell and Gloss leaning towards Eggshell but the robust hard finish of gloss. You can wash it all day removing most stains and grease. It goes well with contemporary designs, the family home, and is easy to work with.

Gloss Paint:

Is regarded as a majestic paint used by 'the top painters on the job'; giving a hard shiny finish. It's plush and adds richness to any room. In the shadows over the last 20 years with all different kinds of marketing stunts by the big DIY chains, but coming back into vogue in a big way. Dirt and grease falls off it and you'll have no trouble throwing a birthday party for the children.

I would tentatively have to say you need to take your time with large areas, doors and the like make sure you work the paint.

You'll use all these Tools when Decorating

The steps are how you reach your ceiling and will save you at lot of time, always buy them with a tray on top, it's really handy, these steps have two.
Every decorating job needs a palm sander and dust sheets and if something won't budge a heavy duty scraper will do the job.

Top Coat the Walls

So we now have one coat of paint on the walls and woodwork and two coats on the finished ceiling.

Our next job is to top coat the walls and woodwork; applying the second coat won't take as long because all the preparation work has been done. The first thing to do is give all the woodwork, starting with the door and window and anything els that's higher than the skirting, a light sanding with some fine gauge sandpaper. This is better done by hand at this stage brushing off the dust once you've sanded each area. Make sure it's just a light sanding, the last thing you want to do at this point is sand off the undercoat. This takes off all the little specks of dust that may have landed on the undercoat after it was put on; now Hoover.

It's a good idea at this point to remove the dust sheets from the floor and give them a good shaking outside to remove any dust. Replace the sheets and also put a dust sheet over any doors in the room; you don't want any specks of water based paint dropping on the meticulously prepared doors when your painting the walls.


Just to recap were applying water based paint to the walls and oil based paint to the woodwork. Remember it's only a light sanding so it will be done quite fast.


Once your sanding is done set up your plank and steps again along the wall next to the wall with the window; give your wall paint a good stir with a 2½” brush handy, pour about a litre of paint in a plastic paint container and wipe the drip with your brush.

As we did with the first coat cut in a 10cm margin around all the edges, corners, doors, light fittings switches and sockets remembering to loosen the plates on the switches and sockets and just pull off the wall a touch to cut-in with the paint.

When your cutting into the ceiling with the second coat try not to get any on the ceiling if the ceiling's a different colour. To make this a little easier you don't have to go right up to the ceiling but just 2mm away, the first coat you put on with a brush will be thick enough to cover where the celling and wall meet and will look perfect to anyone looking at the work.

Carry on round the rest of the room with the margin then your ready to put the rest of the paint on the walls with your roller.

Remove the steps and plank out of your way, pure the rest of your paint into your paint tray or paint bucket; now with a fine roller and again next to the wall with the window, working away from the light so you can see any misses, start at the top of the wall with your roller, and paint in 1m sq sections, working one into the other as you go along top to bottom, finishing off each section with light strokes of your roller . Continue round the room until you come to the opposite corner then move to the other corner next to the wall with the window and paint towards the corner where you stopped. Last of all paint the wall with the window.II It might sound a little awkward but you won't have any misses if you keep working away from the natural light.




Put Everthing in the Tool Box

A work bench is a really helpful part of your tool kit, you can put one end of your plank on it, use the vice to hold something that's tricky to paint, stand on it, stir your paint and general bench work on the job. Every decorator needs a caulk gun for quick filling jobs, another time saver.
I think a ridged tool box is better than a bag again you can stand on it, saw wood if you have to and sit on it for the famos cup of tea.

Gloss Paint Needs a Little More Work

That's your walls finished put away all the tools you were using and drop your roller in a bucket of water for washing later. Put what ever wall paint you have left back in the tin, and don't get upset if you have a couple of litres left over, it's better believe it or not for when some one scuffs the wall, it does happens.

A good tip is to write on the side of the tin with a black felt tip pen 'Living Room Walls' because three months down the line you will have forgot what paint you used.

Now were ready for top coating the woodwork; use your plank and steps if it warrants it and starting with the window again you should have

  • A paint container, half full of your gloss paint,

  • Your 1½” and 2½” paint brushes,

  • Your dust brush

  • Sandpaper

  • A little putty

  • Your 1½ scraper


Remember you've sanded down and brush off the dust as you where sanding. Starting at the very top edge of the widow look over the area for any little holes you may have missed, if you find any fill with putty not with filler or painters caulk, because you can paint putty immediately; dust off with your dust brush even though you can't see any dust with the human eye, some will still come off.
Now from the top edge that's next to the plaster cut into the wall with your 1½ ” brush, and come down your window dusting each area before you paint it. Use your 1½” anywhere there's groves and mouldings changing over to your 2½” for larger areas in between; criss crossing the paint as you apply it; carry on down the window until you come to the windowsill; which is treated with the same respect as a door in that it's regarded as one of the centre pieces of any job.

Here you have an option; sandpaper no matter how fine if you really looked after sanding leaves scratches on your undercoat surface, to get an even better finish you could sand it down with wet and dry sandpaper; it's a very fine sandpaper usually black and used with water hence wet and dry sandpaper; there's no dust because you dip it in water to start. Sand the sill lightly with the wet and dry, as you sand it will clog up with the undercoat your sanding, just dip it in water and rub it a little and it will clear, carry on until you finish the the whole sill, wipe down with a cloth, making sure it's dry, give it a brush with your dust brush and your ready to paint.

Taking your 1½ brush paint the underneath of the sill and then all you have left is the very top.

Load your 2½” paint brush buy dipping the brush in the paint until it comes a 1/3 of the way up the bristles then tap your brush on each side of your paint container; this forces the paint into the brush, hence loading your brush.

From one end of the sill paint a line of paint from the window side of the sill to the edge then criss cross over the line you've just painted going back and forth left to right again from the window side to the edge, paint another line of paint about 10cm away from the first lot of paint you put on the sill; again from the window side to the edge this time when your criss crossing fill in the 10cm gap left to right finishing off with very light strokes going down the length of the sill, carry on using the same process till the end of the sill.

More Essential Tools

This folding rule is just what you need for marking wallpaper when you need to cut down it's length. The mighty roller one of the biggest step forwards in the decorating industry this century.
Hot air heat gun and all the tools you need for burning off old paint and to catch everything more dust sheets all you need is 4 or 5 big one's and you'll have them for years.

There's a rule to stick to when using gloss paint on a door.

Now for the picture rail, even though it's a small area try to work the paint as much as possible, use your dust brush, brushing away from the window and using your 1½” paint brush cut into the wall on both sides of the picture rail top and bottom trying not to get paint on the walls.

Remember all the time I'm saying try not to get paint here or there; no ones going to chop your hand off if you do, you just go back when everything is dry and touch up any mistakes, don't attempt it while it's wet you'll make it worse.

Once you've finished the the picture rail your on to the door frames and doors, dust first again, you can use wet and dry sandpaper if you wish for the best finish; wipe down with a cloth to dry.

As we said with the undercoat start with the top edge of the door frame; dust and cut in to the wall.

As I told you in 'How to paint a door' when we applied the undercoat.

Painting a Door, the Unwritten Rule.

  • The edge at the top of the door frame what the door sits in is painted the same colour as the wood work in the room your painting.
  • The upright edge of the frame that the door sits in is also painted the same colour as the wood work in the room your painting.
  • The upright edge of the frame with the hinges on and the edge of the door that the hinges are on, are left the same colour as wood work in the area you would walk into if you left the room your painting.

When you get halfway down the door frame give it another dust with your dust brush and hoover the bottom of the frame and around the door; brush again and paint the rest of the frame to the bottom. If there's any other doors in the room do them frames next. have a cup of tea. Then go back to your first door; just to give the frame a little drying time.


Filling and Small Platering Jobs

All these tool will take care of all your filling and small plastering jobs; having the right tools halves the time it takes to do the job.

Gloss Painting the Door

Now open the door and jam a wedge of wood between the closing edge and the floor so it doesn't move.

If the door is flat with no beading or panels start on the top of the door dusting first then with your 1½” brush paint the top edge of the door; cutting into the outside edge of the top edge. Now with your 2” brush cut in to the edge with the hinges on, remembering the rule, if you get paint on the edge of the door that has the hinges on you will be able to see it from the next room. So cut in to the front edge that has the hinges on about ½ a meter down, then paint a vertical line the same length about 10cm away from the first vertical line of paint, fill in the area between the lines crossing from one line to another horizontally, paint vertical over that area again, horizontally again and finish off with light strokes horizontally. Remember when your working with gloss paint you have to work the paint in to the door and at the same time stopping it from running with the cross strokes. Repeat this all over the door crossing one section into another until you get to the bottom of the door.

If the door has beading on it with panels, take your 1½” brush and paint round one section of beading at a time, then with your 2½” brush paint the panel using the same procedure as above going from one top panel to the other, then do the top part of the door that surrounds the panels; so at this point you have painted half the door completely. Once you've done the top section repeat the process with the bottom panels. Last of all, painting from the top, do the closing edge of the door cutting in to the outside edge and down to your wedge.

As we did with the undercoat last on the list is the skirting boards. Going away from the door with your dust brush in hand brushing as you go round in front of your painting; cut in to the wall at the top of the skirting board with your 1½ brush trying not to get paint on the walls.

For the bottom of the skirting boards, find your self a rigid piece of cardboard about 30 to 40cm long a lino floor tile is ideal. If you have carpet push your card board down between the carpet and the skirting so you touch the floor; bend it back towards the centre of the room and then cut into the bottom of the skirting board. The card board is there so you don't get paint on the carpet but try not to get paint on the card board ether. Fill in the middle off the skirting with paint using the same procedure you used on the doors.

That's it, all done.

Just one last thing go round the whole job with your 2½ brush and look if you can see any runs especially at the bottom corners of each panel on the door. If there are runs take one of your brushes and from the bottom of the run brush upwards lightly.

The last thing you want to do at this point is start moving dust sheets, steps, planks and tools creating dust so leave them until the next day, a professional would have moved most of the tools and equipment out after painting the windows and picture rail leaving just one dust sheet to move round as they put on the gloss paint.

I think it maybe worth a small hub on cleaning tools so look out for that one.



Ask any Decorating Questions you like, Happy to Help 12 comments

Carole Owen 5 years ago

If I choose to use eggshell paint on my doors, do I use it for the frames and skirting boards also?


2Tony profile image

2Tony 5 years ago from Manchester U.K. Author

Hi Carole

If you wish there no reason not to.

The only thing you have to watch with egg shell is if there a lot of traffic and children going through the doors, it tends to show up grease marks, hand prints and the like, how ever anywhere else shirting's, windows ect its fine.


johnny 4 years ago

can u use gloss paint on walls that are on a stair way in a high rise flat


2Tony profile image

2Tony 4 years ago from Manchester U.K. Author

Hi Johnny

Sure you can, give it a coat of undercoat first, cutting in to all your edges (round doors and skirting)then use a roller on the rest.

Good luck


Cindy 4 years ago

Hi,

I painted with eggshell paint our doors, shirting boards and door frames, but, two years later, they are in a terrible state! They are all chipped (we have two children, but it's not necessarily their fault) and the paint comes off if you scratch it with your nails...


2Tony profile image

2Tony 4 years ago from Manchester U.K. Author

Hi Cindy

Eggshell is not really the ideal cover with young children around there's not to much of a sheen to it so hand marks tend to be absorbed into the paint making them hard to remove.

It's all the rage but you might notice it's always advertized in minimalistic setting.

The chipping may be from the way it was applied; doors and skirting boards must be first washed down to remove any grease on the surface and then sanded down to take off the sheen of the old paint so you can gain a solid surface for the new paint to cling to.


Diane 3 years ago

I recently painted an old pine bedside cabinet. Prepared by lightly sanding as the wood was bare ( no varnish ) and a coat of white dulux undercoat.

After much deliberation I decided on crown period eggshell paint in the colour flagon. ( perfect shade) so exited to start my first little painting job !

The paint didn't cover well at all? But I figured perhaps this is normal ... So I left it to dry overnight and gave another coat and another and another ! Finally, yes !

Well I don't know where I've gone wrong but this paint will just not stop on ?! I put the handles and hinges back on and the paint is just chipping off? Do I need to apply some sort of protective coat on this paint ?

Can someone give me advise please .


Tony 3 years ago

It's unusual that the paint chips if there's no varnish on the cabinet.

Are you sure there wasn't a matt varnish on it?

Secondly, Are you sure you used both oil based paints.

Thirdly, If you where using water based paint (which is not advisable for this type of job) where they both water based.

Mixing any water based paint with oil based will cause problems.

That's what might have happen, what ever the case it's not helping with your problem.

Paint it once more with your top coat then get some matt yacht varnish (or gloss if you want it glossy) and give it a couple of coats.

That should seal it.

Big Tip: Don't go near the thing for at least 5 days.

Why: Oil based paint and Varnish are touch dry (unless you buy quick drying, but this still applies) in 6 to 8 hours; however it takes 4 or 5 days to harden.

Good luck

T


wall poster frames 2 years ago

Consider decorating your home not by painting the walls a unique color, but by decorating with artwork. White or off-white walls will give you more options with regards to using artwork in creating a unique style.


Jimmy 2 years ago

I have used eggshell oil based paint on my doors and was wondering if I can second coat with water based eggshell paint.


Elaine 2 years ago

Jimmy - Don't do it!! I found out the hard way, it does not work.


2Tony profile image

2Tony 2 years ago from Manchester U.K. Author

Hi Jimmy

Sorry I took so long. The norm is don't mix water with oil, however if you really want it to happen try it on a piece of waste

timber first and see what happens.

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