Painting Tips and Tricks 5: How to paint internal wood
How to paint internal wood is the continuation of a group of hubs on Painting Tips and Tricks in which I'm redecorating a room. We've finished painting the ceiling and have one off two coats of emulsion paint on the walls; Just in case any one's thinking 'surely one coat enough it's dear stuff this paint'.
One coat will look cloudy in normal room lighting, and in natural light will look even worse.
Just the fact that your wrist will unknowingly be putting different amounts of pressure on the brush while painting will produce this effect; which is something to bear in mind if your thinking of buying the marketing illusion of one coat paint (it doesn't work).
A multi purpose scarper much better than just an ordinary scraper, The paint stick as been around for 20 years that must tell you something you fill the stick full of paint and it feeds into the roller no tray strait from the tin, read the reviews on Amazon. A 3" brush is ideal for cutting in with water based ceiling and wall paint. It's not always the case that the more expensive the product the better it is, but I do think that paint brushes are an exception to the rule.
Smooth Foam Roller Covers for painting behind radiators and places where the larger rollers can't reach. You should always have spare roller sleeves and a roller and tray are basic compared with a lot of products on the market but it still dose the job.
The one coat of paint you've put on the walls with your roller will have thrown out a fine spray of paint which is why you cover everything in dust sheets or drop sheets as they say in the U.S.; as I said in the Painting Walls Hub there's no need to put masking tape all over the place, it's time consuming and just an added expense; what your going to do now is sand down the wood work and undercoat it which takes care of any paint that my have dripped on it.
Starting with the window, wipe down all the wood work with a degrease as we did with the walls and ceiling to remove any grease that may have collected on the paint work. Work your way around the room and by the time your finished wiping down, the window should be dry.
Starting at the top of the window, take your small scraper or putty knife and using the edge run it round each window frame to remove any flaking paint that condensation as created; if any putty comes out of the frame replace it with putty, remember you can paint putty right away and it dose contain linseed oil which is a good barrier against water; fill in all the holes and cracks and give the hole thing a good sanding down.
Here I must bring to your attention to 'Palm Sanders' if there's one machine that as really advance the art of sanding down walls and paint work over the years I've been painting the 'Palm Sander' is it.
Now take your dust brush and brush off all the dust.
The painting mitt comes in handy for painting behind waste and drain pipes and also makes a quick job of painting iron railings. I know I'm shooting myself in the foot hear but an old rubber washing up glove with an old woolen glove over the top will do the same trick.This full face mask looks better than most; the paper ones are just a waste of time. You have to know what your doing with the hot air gun and what you have to do when you've used it; this one as all the related tools with it for burning off paint. I'll be putting a hub up about burning off so look out for that one.
The other three items are together, as all you need for filling.
Again we come up against tape or no tape, I promise I won't mention it again after this.
If you want you can take the time to tape up every pane of glass, but again you don't have to. Take your 1½” brush dip in your paint about 1/3 of the way up the bristles, tap it on both sides of your paint container to force the paint into the brush; place the corner of the brush into the corner of the window pane and go round the pane slowly, the more you do this the better you will become at cutting in.
Draw a strait line on a piece of wood and practice cutting in to it.
So what if you do get paint on the widow?
Removing paint off a window must be one of the easiest thing to remove paint off, the trick is to wait until it dries; obviously if it's in the middle of the window just wipe it off with a cloth with a little white spirits.
If it's close to the frame, rather than try to wipe it off with a cloth and possible remove the paint you've just put on; leave it to dry and the day after remove it with your Stanley scraper, that's the one that carries a Stanley blade in it, that you can change. Scrape the paint off by approaching it at 90 degrees to the frame and not down the length where you can run into the frame and scratch the paint.
I promise you it will come off with ease.
The two steps are for putting your plank on with a tool tray on the taller pair for putting tools on and your paint container and the wider set for added stability. Wet and dry sand paper is for using on surfaces where you want a really good finish after using ordinary sandpaper you would use wet and dry to remove the marks that you can hardly see that the normal sandpaper made.
You will always need dust/drop sheets when painting. The last item is one of the big guns; when an ordinary scraper can't do the job take this out of your tool bag and what ever your trying to scraper off will fall off with fright.
Uesing a Chalk Gun
Once you've painted the window frame take your cloth with a little white spirits on it and wipe down the sill to remove any minute dust particles. Then paint the under side of the sill and last of all the top, painting strait lines and crossing them, strait lines and crossing, finishing with light strokes the lengthen of the sill.
Still at the top, if you have a picture rail which you would have already wash earlier, sand it down and do any filling that needs doing; it usually has a crack between wood and plaster all the way along the top and bottom of the rail. This is an ideal situation for using your decorators chalk and gun.
Most people when using a sealant or chalk-gun cut the plastic nozzle at about 45 degrees and if they were filling a corner of a room from top to bottom, put the the gun at the top of the corner and come down the corner squeezing the filler out as they come down.
The truth is you can do it both ways; start at the bottom where you can comfortably get the gun in place and squeeze as your going up the corner, when you get to the top come back down to the bottom turning the nozzle towards the floor and fill the section you miss at the start going down towards the floor; you'll find the finish is much better. Wait until the Chalk is completely dry then sand down your picture rail and brush off all the dust.
Try out both ways before you do your main job and see which is best for you.
Paint the rail with the 1½ brush right round the room cutting in to the wall, again don't worry about getting paint on the wall you still have a coat of paint to go on it.
Saw bench, Seat, some where to put your tea and you can put tools in it. I know the picture doesn't look like it but on the right is an extendable plank. There's a lot of what we call tack (In Lancashire U.K.) on the maket but extenable planks are a really good idea.
The Best Tool in the Hub
Not so much the roller stick as 'The Roller'.
Stick your mums brush pole on the end of this and your not to far away from all the gadgets.
Around 42 years old the roller has made the trade a lot easier; where as everything in the past was done off the top of a pair of steps and a plank; the roller as cut painting time down by at least half.
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How to paint is pretty strait forward. Which paint should I use is the bigger question; and it all depends on the finish your trying to achieve.